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9

Yes, the air that is passed through the crankcase ventilation system is metered before it enters the ventilation system. If the pipe is off, un-metered air will be allowed in, which will cause a weak mixture and therefore possible misfiring.


4

I also have a 2014 Escape, and the reason for this is actually explained in the owners manual. The section under "Recirculated air", on. p.104, says the following: Note: Recirculated air may turn off automatically (or be prevented from turning on) in all airflow modes except MAX A/C to reduce risk of fogging. Recirculated air may also turn on and off ...


4

The absence of a clicking sound indicates that the starter relay isn't energizing the starter circuit. Here are two possible culprits: Starter relay. It could well be that the solenoid inside relay is sticking, preventing the switch on the starter side from closing and turning the engine over. This would explain why you do not hear the starter relay ...


3

A bad radiator cap can explain this. If the cap opens at a lower pressure than what the cooling system is rated at then coolant will be released through the overflow tube once that pressure is achieved, which it will under normal operation. I would test/replace the radiator cap and see if that remedies the symptoms.


3

I had looked at this and didn't realize it was an Escape. A friend of mine has one with the exact same problem. I would put money on it not being the sensor, but the connector you've cleaned. Not that cleaning it would have caused any further issues. This is a common problem with the Escapes. The easiest way to fix the issue is to remove the connector all ...


3

I spoke with a Ford dealership service technician and he said the most likely cause of this behavior was that the clutches were going out in the transmission. The recommended fix was a new transmission, or as I decided for a 2002 car with over 200k miles, a new car. On a side note, they said it shouldn't harm the transmission to continue to drive it like a ...


2

The easiest although not the cheapest method is to call a tow truck. They do lockout calls quite often. The method needed to open the hood without the cable varies. It may require bumper and grill removal. As @Larry has suggested call a tow service or find a 15 year old delinquent/hoodlum who will have the door open in less than a minute.


2

Easiest thing to do is call a locksmith, or towing company, even some cab companies are doing this now. They have a kit that will let them unlock the door. It runs about $40 here, call and ask for prices because it can vary wildly. Opening the hood is possible, if you can get to the release cable but it's very difficult on most cars. Finding a wire to put ...


2

The Escapes are known to have an issue with the seat connection on the passenger side. This is the connection which goes to the seat to see if someone is sitting in the seat (if nobody's in the seat, the pass side air bag won't deploy). Under the seat there is a wire which will go down from the seat bottom to about the middle underneath of it. Try to see if ...


2

There are a few things it could be. Dirt in the brake drums (if its not rear disc) Pads or shoes have been damaged or become worn Hardware has come loose and is getting caught as you are braking Rusted drums or discs You should get this check out right away before it causes expensive damage or you loose braking ability all together.


1

The outcome of the jump-start folly can only be seen when you get home. It may or may not have caused further issues. What you need to do is to attach jumper cables to it correctly and see if it will allow the vehicle to start. Once it presumably starts, you'll need to check to see if there are any dash lights which stay on, most notably for the alternator ...


1

The first comment is that there MAY be a special fill procedure for your car. If you are not observing the fill procedure, you may not be putting enough coolant in, and OF COURSE the car will drain the tank, to fill the cooling loop, once the thermostat opens. The second comment is that this sounds as though the car is burning coolant. Think "blown head ...


1

That's exactly what I'd say the issue is ... most vehicles today have blend door actuators which are operated with an electric motor. These motors can go bad without regard to your comfort. In most cases the actuators are pretty easy to get to, though I don't know exactly where it's at with your specific vehicle. You will most likely find it on the driver's ...


1

If I'm understanding the question correctly, I don't think you have any major problems. The AC is going to drip water which has condensed on the evaporator core during use. This is completely normal. Since you can only cause this to happen with the AC on, I'd suggest you have one or two issues. This is directly related to the serpentine belt. Either the ...


1

I'd definitely suggest your alternator is bad. As was suggested in the comments, you can check the alternator itself at the battery. What you'd be looking for in this case is what the voltage is doing. Put the multimeter leads on the battery while it's running to check the voltage. If the alternator is bad, you'll see the voltage slowly tick down. If this ...


1

The check engine lights need to be read and cleared if you haven't done it already. This can only be done with an OBD-II scanner. If you don't have one, take it to an Autozone or the like. They can do it for you and will usually do so for free.


1

Have you checked the fuel filler pipes? These can sometimes rot or perish and cause vapours to escape. The same can also happen with the fuel tank ventilator pipes, which allow air in to the tank as the fuel level drops.


1

The source of smells (not unlike rattles & squeaks) are deceptive.Check all components of fuel delivery system for leaks



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