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-1

To exactly address your Question it is Engine A as zaid suggests. Hoping to give clarity on the engines themselves. Engine A: This has a better power than engine B , you will find this engine better for in gear acceleration and overtaking manuevers also this engine will allow a higher top speed. Engine B: This engine has better torque than engine A, ...


1

Engine A has a higher peak power Namely 87 bhp vs 80 bhp. Both figures are achieved at 6000 RPM. But a car doesn't always run at 6000 RPM, so it may be that Engine B has better acceleration as the engine goes through the rev range.


0

Mechanic changed out the spark plug wires. This stopped the jerking and revving. The engine light came back in after I drove it 20 miles. I requested a smoke test, but I was told that it wasn't necessary. At this point, I'm just going to handle this myself.


3

No. Stalling the car will not damage your car , your car is designed to absorb the impact at least a hundred times.(Most of my family members learnt driving in my car and it has stalled half of its life and its working perfectly) Stalling the car extremely frequently especially with load(passengers) can put additional stress on the transmission components ...


0

If i remember your setup correctly you have a 4.3L Vortec engine. The fuel pressure regulator and plastic fuel lines commonly had issues in that engine. The regulator and lines are located inside the intake manifold and when it goes bad it floods the engine terribly. That engine has a fuel pressure port on the metal fuel line coming into the engine. Attach a ...


1

Bear in mind that unless you were to get out and measure the height of the water, you won't know how deep it is. Furthermore, as you drive into the water you will create a bow wave so the actual water level may change and still cause water to be sucked into the engine. You also risk wetting the coil pack which would stop your engine running and potentially ...


7

If you really want an intake that will likely survive deep water, you're going to need something more like: However... Is the height of the bottom of the chassis the maximum height I can drive through without hydrolocking? (This question is bordering on offtopic, sorry!) Would I hydrolock, even though the intake is really high? You might ...


6

The oil cooler is one possible place where oil and coolant could mix, but there are other culprits: a compromised head gasket can allow oil to mix into the cylinder head's cooling jacket a warped cylinder head can do the same.


3

According to me there are 3 major events or advancements which have contributed for most of the efficiency and improvement of the modern engines. 1. Electronic Fuel Injection The elimination of the carburettor meant that the Air Fuel Mixture ratio can now be adjusted to a higher degree and an optimum and combustion environment is possible for the engine ...


0

I found a craftsman push mower with an eager 1 or tecumseh engine(i think they're made by the same company)down an alley one day. the next day, i found a john deere push mower on the side of the road with a 3.5 horse briggs on it which appeared to be brand new and in mint condition, but when i brought it home, I noticed the right rear wheel was literally ...


9

It's true that modern engines produce more power The stats tell it all, but here's a quick example in numbers: 1976 BMW M17 1990 cc 113 hp 2011 BMW N20 1997 cc 340 hp But some things will never change Air + Fuel = Bang + Emissions The chemical equation governing internal combustion hasn't changed. This means that the optimum air-to-fuel ratio (AFR) ...


1

As far as the battery issue goes - one other thing to check is the battery connections. Open the hood and look at the battery connections and feel with your hand if the two wires (positive and ground) are fixed securely to the terminals. A loose cable can cause intermittent problems because the normal motion of the car (going over bumps, etc.) can move/jog ...


2

From your description, I doubt anything you've stated is at fault. I would bet the vacuum port you used for testing is associated with another device which is where you heard the "ticking" sound. As this alternate device is turned on/off, it is causing the wild vacuum readings you are seeing. If I were to guess, I would think you are probably reading ...


0

That is a leaking intake valve. The needle swing coupled with the "tic" sound are classic symptoms. Off comes the head. After repair of the engine problem clear the codes and see if the CAT fail code resets. Poor combustions can fool the catalyst test. source: 30 years automotive diagnostics.


3

It depends on the vehicle, why it is being left, and how it is prepared before being left. If it's a vehicle that's in reasonably regular use, then I'd recommend making sure it's used at least once every week or so, and is driven far enough for the engine to get up to full operating temperature. Just starting it and letting it run is better than nothing ...


1

On most cars, the immobiliser is difficult to remove/disable, as it is integrated into other systems on the car. For example, on my 2000 Opel, the immobiliser is linked to the ECU, which means the ECU would need reprogramming to remove. I would suggest going to the dealership, and bringing proof of ownership. They can then order in a new key and lock set ...


0

After jump starting the car, turn on the head lights, heater, rear windscreen heater etc. if they all operate correctly, e.g the lights are full brightness and the heater fan sounds like it is running at normal speed, then your alternator is fine and the problem is your battery. If the lights are dim, then the fault is the alternator. After totally ...


3

You seem to have several concerns here, so let me try to address them one at a time. You are worried about the car starting up properly. Since the engine would not turn over when you tried to start it, then it started right away with a jump start, it sounds like it was only the battery you need to worry about. Either you left a light on or something else ...


4

I wanted to get my comments compiled into a full answer, to make sure we are thorough. Draining oil through the filter connection by running the starting motor to pump the oil brings a few concerns to mind: There is the possibility that fuel will flood the cylinders as you turn the engine over without a spark to burn the fuel. As you said, the ATV started ...


6

It's not a good idea to run the engine dry like that because the bearings on the crankshaft need oil pressure for lubrication. Having said that, some engines can run without oil for a short amount of time thanks to whatever residual oil is trapped between the bearing surfaces. I don't think you would spin a bearing with a limited amount of cranking, but you ...


1

Your Carburettor might be clogged. Clean it along with the air filter and you should be good to go. Also check if your "choke" chord is not faulty since it will tend to send a rich mixture to the engine which will stall it at low RPM and you get that "Missing" feeling but more importantly your fuel efficiency is affected.


2

You're taking a particularly narrow view of engine configurations, when there are many more variables at play. The first is engine balancing; I6 engines (and by extension V12 engines as they are comprised of two I6 cylinder configurations) are inherently balanced and require less additional rotating balancing weight, or balancing shafts (common in I4 ...


4

Your final sentence is the one that is subjective here. You find the V8 best. V8's are good, but so are V12's - they have different characteristics and tend to be chosen for those characteristics. A V8 is a lot smaller, so can fit in a smaller space - where space is at a premium that may be the key criterion. With less space limitations, however, going for ...


0

I am Having the same problem with my 03 Jaguar X-Type. The diagnosis is a bad water pump. Im replacing the engine coolant reservoir tank as well, it appears to be in bad shape as well and is leaking a bit too.


0

I suspect that the reason the vehicle will not start is that the fuel lines are dry. On diesel engined vehicles there is a priming procedure which is specific to the vehicle but may be completed by a plunger on top of the fuel filter in the engine bay or a separate "squeezy" hand pump in the fuel lines. This procedure must be completed if a diesel ever ...


0

5 years its too long. He should not try to start the engine without doing these steps: Empty the tank and get rid of the old diesel (of course, refill the tank with new fuel) Clean diesel filter Replace engine oil Replace oil filter Replace brake fluid Also have look this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byqhfAl9-YE hope it help thanks ...


3

Your post raises several possible issues that you could eliminate to start with. Firstly if it is still on an incline I suggest you push or tow it to flat ground. It will help rule out fuel starvation and make it easier and safer to work on. Second i would drain the fuel tank and put fresh fuel in it. From there you can try starting it a few times. ...


-1

Imho adding 2 stroke oil will help lubricates the top part of the piston. What i am worried is, how clean the mixture will burn? Because most 4 stroke engine have egr. If it burns much dirtier, u could end up with more soot re-entering your combustion chamber.


2

I am not sure about diesel, but regular fuel jelliefies over time. And five years sounds plenty long. In addition, you might live in a country that adds ethanol to its fuel. I read that this can also separate over time, though I have no direct experience with that. Summary: check the fuel. Is it still liqued?


1

Along with everybody else's suggestions,Keep the blade sharp. I sharpen the blade on my push mower at least every other mowing. A dull blade will cause a lot of resistance to the engine. I use an angle grinder with a very fine wheel as to not take off too much metal.


1

Also I want to add my 2 cents. When I look at Yamah FZ8 I see that it is water cooled... so I think that the purpose of the fan is to push air on the cooler as it should have a bigger surface than the engine itself. When you turn on the ignition the fan pushes air on the cooler but the water pump is not running as the engine does not run. So I would think ...


9

Stopping a naturally aspirated engine will cool it down, regardless of the fan running and etc. The idea behind "turbo timers" on turbocharged cars is not at all engine cooling related, rather it is to allow the delicate and extremely hot turbocharger components to cool down via keeping the oil feed circulating through it for additional 15-30 seconds or a ...


0

I would check the governor. The spring can break. If you can reach the vane (engine off), rotate it with your finger. You should feel some (modest) resistance, and it should rotate back when you release it.


0

Go to lawnmower racing sites. Lots of info. I had a 6.5 honda clone I put aftermarket racing exhaust with very low restriction muffler an a K an N style air filter then bumped the main jet up 2 numbers. Very surprising results! You can put a billet flywheel on as well an the engine will spool up faster but might loose torque. Stay with the stock wheel an go ...


0

Stopped by a mechanic on my way home from work. The popping sound is the compressor clutch. The reason it's making noise is that the friction material is getting worn down, so you're hearing metal on metal when it's slapping together. It sounds little bit like air escaping (the PFFFT sound described earlier) because it's slipping a bit without the friction ...


2

If milk-like oil ends up in the radiator despite replacing the head gasket, it is likely that the head itself has warped due to overheating, allowing oil to leak into the coolant channels. While there is a remote possibility to salvage the cylinder head by having it skimmed by a professional machinist, in all probability it will need to be replaced.


1

OK, so I just realized if you know the engine displacement and compression ratio you should be able to figure this out pretty easily. Even if I don't inject directly down the plug hole, but use the more traditional brake booster vacuum line method, I'd still like to know how much fluid I can safely pour down the vacuum line on the last gulp before stalling ...


4

Liquid cannot compress. The volume of the cylinder is smallest when the cylinder is at TDC. IF you know things like piston dish volume, head combustion chamber volume, head gasket thickness, you can calculate this volume. I am assume you do not know these values... Here is what I do. Set the engine to TDC on #1. Pull the plug. Fill up the cylinder. ...


6

If the height of the new piston above the rod connection centerline is greater than for the old piston, that will increase the compression ratio quickly. For the assumption made by Zaid on the stroke, a height change of 3.2 mm will produce that new compression. If that is the case (taller piston) you would also need to wonder about valve clearance.


4

There is no way that a 1 mm increase in bore diameter will change compression ratio that drastically unless the stroke is changed as well. My rough calculations indicate that the change in bore will result in a new compression ratio of 8.66:1ยน. Even though you're not after power per se, the higher CR should translate to more torque. A rebored piston will ...


1

In addition to the suggested insufficient refrigerant or debris, it could also be a pressure safety sensor going bad. That can cause the compressor to cycle on and off even if you have a full charge. Keep that in the back of your mind if it's not the other things.


1

Carbon Build up on the valves and the exhaust is very common for any old engine no matter how you maintain it , its the by product of the combustion of gasoline. Issues due to carbon build-up on the valves: Clogs the valves thus allowing less fuel/air to get inside the cylinder thus reducing power and efficiency of the vehicle. The above point can cause ...


3

In general: carbon build-up (CBU) impairs the ability of the valves to properly seat, resulting in lack of compression, which leads to loss of engine torque. if the vehicle is equipped with AIR (secondary-air pump), CBU in secondary air tracts prevents the emissions-control from functioning properly during cold starts. If bad enough, this can lead to the ...


2

The source of the pffft sound is the AC system's expansion valve. It is normal to hear it when the AC engages/disengages; it doesn't indicate that the expansion valve has an issue per se. However, what is not normal is that the AC is cycling on and off so frequently. 6-7 seconds tells me that something is disengaging the compressor clutch. This could be ...


0

May I ask why you reported this question? You could have easily updated your previous question with the new details instead of posting the same question again? Anyway as I was saying in my answer, I think it could be an issue with your gas pedal rheostat, if your car uses a DBW system: I'm betting your Corsa is Drive-By-Wire (DBW), meaning, there isn't a ...


2

I'm betting your Corsa is Drive-By-Wire (DBW), meaning, there isn't a direct connection between you and the throttle. If so, the gas pedal rheostat is probably telling the computer you are pressing it, causing the throttle to go up and in some cases not respond at all. You could possibly test the gas pedal by unplugging it and checking for even/smooth ...


-2

its your alternator which is giving you the symtoms eventually within a week or so it will, leave you stranded, let me know if im right.


0

I know that Fiat, with the old FIRE engines (that's Fully Robotised Integrated Engines) used to run them up to 14,000 RPM for 20 minutes and if they passed that trial, they'd put them in a car.


0

Typically the fuel injection cut off switch is located under the front passenger seat but on your specific car it appears to be located in the drivers side of the trunk behind an access panel. More vehicle specific information here


0

It turned out to be perished radiator caps. I replaced both and the problem went away.



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