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I would like to know how likely it is that it needs replacing... It is completely possible that you have a timing belt issue after only 46k miles (and almost 7 years); I believe that is what you are asking. That being said, if your car is currently running, your timing belt is intact and working. Timing belts are part of a routine maintenance and don't ...


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it sounds like idle control valve I had same problem on my Peugeot 206 gti when I started engine , it would cut out and I would need to turn over with accelerator. I would hold revs at 1000-1100 until warm after this would drive phone but very lumpy when at roundabouts etc but would cut out 4/10 ten times cheers spence


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Put petrol down the spark plug hole making the bore wet with gasoline which helps move the piston faster will take 10 pulls after to first get running but will fire straight after tht every time I'm a motorbike mechanic


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Your carb is plugged, probably due to ethanol gas. It is heck on these small engines. The easiest way to fix this is to replace the carb. The crud from the ethanol gets into the very small orifices and clogs them up. There is enough of a draw from the vacuum created under full choke for it to draw gas and keep it running, but once you take the choke off, the ...


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This absolutely could be the issue. On fuel injected vehicles, the coolant temperature sensor is one of the key sensors used (O2, MAP, & MAF are others) in calibrating the fuel map stored in the computer. Without the computer knowing the temperature of the engine, it has to run in a "limp-home" or "open loop" mode (depending on how the vehicle ...


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The engine is optimized to be efficient at high rpm or at low rpm (racing engine or cement mixer design respectively) but it can't be efficient at every possible speed so it is up to the driver to choose the best gear and speed to match the capabilities of the motor he has, i.e. keep it revving at an appropriate rpm for the speed/torque demanded of that ...


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What it comes down to is there are trade offs. In the case of the engine, it's torque output and rotating mass versus engine speed ... read on. First, it isn't power which is needed, but torque to keep an engine running. In the early days of engines, each had one cylinder and didn't run very fast. To keep it running, it had a very large flywheel attached to ...


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It looks like it is down the side of the engine, on the left-hand side... It would appear that the filler is part of the oil recirculation system, there should be a hose going down into a round thing, the top of which should pull off (with the hose still attached) to allow you to top it up... This site has a scan of the owner's manual, Pages 5 and 51 seem ...


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You could possibly get it out, but putting it back in would be nearly impossible. To do it correctly, you should put new bearings throughout (rods & mains). Putting new main bearings in requires checking clearances. You would not be able to do this by having the crank hang on the bearing caps. Since you spun a bearing, the engine block should be ...


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What I did was I cleaned out the muffler with brake cleaner then blew it out with my air compressor (didn't really do much, I didn't see much carbon buildup come out). I put the muffler back on, dumped out the E10 gas that I had in the tank, replaced it with 100% gas, and now it works. Not sure which of these steps ultimately fixed it.


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While I can't provide the technical details as to why, I would say your weedeater is performing as expected. With full choke and full throttle, you are flooding it when the muffler is attached. I would expect that you would smell or even see fuel coming out of the exhaust. However, with the muffler removed, the backpressure is so low that the engine can blow ...


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Here's an image of where the injector sits on the engine and what to look for to see if you can get at it. Since the one in the video which @mac provided is a 2007, this is a picture of one which is for your year (I believe they were the same from 1997-2003). Hopefully it will help you figure out if you can do it or not. Depending on which cylinder it is, ...


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Your engine does have one injector per cylinder (multipoint fuel injection), which is a good start. Some engines have single point injection, in which case you could not selectively cut fuel to a given cylinder. Unplugging the control wires to a fuel injector will stop the fuel delivery from that injector, as injectors are "normally closed" and require ...


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It sounds very much like you've blown a head gasket. Even with a new vehicle such as yours, this is not unheard of. There are only two ways you'll get white smoke that I'm aware of, those being a blown head gasket or it sucking up automatic transmission fluid. A head gasket is much more common. I'm sure this thing is still under warranty, so get it down to ...


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This web site gives these specifications for the motor: Bore (in) 1.54 Bore (mm) 39 Compression Ratio 7.21 Cooling Air Cylinders 1 Displacement (cc) 49.5 Displacement (ci) 3 Engine Configuration Single-Cylinder Engine Immobilizer Not Available Engine Type ...


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Take it back to the mechanic who did the work and have him redo everything. Sounds as though there is an internal oil leak which is dumping oil into the coolant system. It could be as simple as a gasket out of place or as bad as a crack somewhere. Whatever the deal is, the mechanic should have caught the issue while putting it back together. Since you paid ...


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It has very little to do with the exhaust system and much to do with the mechanics of the engine. All modern muscle cars have aluminium blocks (vs cast iron), round exhaust ports (vs rectangle), and completely different timing set ups than 60s cars have. The firing order makes a big difference because nobody fires 2 in a row on the same side of the engine ...


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I am going to assume you took the vehicle somewhere and had them change the oil? I would put money on it whoever that someone was, put oil in the overflow by mistake, realized they did it, and put oil in the crankcase while not saying anything about the overflow. The key to me for this is when you said: Im talking about at least a quart of oil in the ...


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Could be someone put oil by mistake, I had lady friend took car to have oil changed and after about a block or 2 Engine lock up. They FORGOT to put oil in so things can happen. I'd flush rad a few times and test drive see if it happens again. Also does it have a trans cooler seperate from radiator or does it have lines in the rad for cooling, that could put ...


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Your engine may have been run on a cheap brand of oil which would have lacked a good detergent ability. A 'cheaper(?)' oil can cause gumming up of the engines oil ways, causing a very slow return to the engines sump. (You are measuring the oil level held in the sump when you dip the dipstick into the engine.) Look inside and to one one side of the oil filler ...


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If you're losing oil, one of two things will be happening - either it's leaking or it's being burnt in the engine. If it was being burnt, you should be able to see and smell it in the exhaust - a blue-black smoke with an oily smell. However if you're losing that much I'd suspect an external leak. Have a look around and under the engine bay for any signs of ...



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