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You are describing a lean condition The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air leaks into your system can become more obvious. Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you ...


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Your oil pan didn't rust I would just like to point out that your oil pan can't just rust out. It is made of material that doesn't rust. So when you had a hole in your oil pan it more than likely hit a rock or curb or something that penetrated it. Perhaps the other driver of the vehicle. On the other hand, if your oil pan was replaced with something ...


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The simple fact is that there are tons of ways for cars to get oil on the engine rather than in the engine. There is engine oil, AC compressor oil, and power steering fluid. Over time, most engines will have some kind of leak. Maybe its a small leak from the head cover gasket or even a cracked PCV valve. It could also be spilled when filling the oil. ...


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It sounds a lot like a fuelling issue to me, I'd suggest a systematic approach to the carbs. Get the workshop manual for the bike and try the following: Check fuel supply Check float level Check idle mixture Check that jets are clear Check that all vacuum hoses are routed and connected correctly Check that carb diaphragms are intact and needles slide ...


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Sounds like he bought a new battery to try to fix the issue but it did not. There may be other causes (like fuses, wiring, a non-genuine immobilizer) but the next logical assumption is that the starter and/or starter solenoid have failed.


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I had the same problem it was not getting gas to the carb there is no fuel pump it is gravity fed. mt trouble was a bad after fire selenoid this blocks gas to the carb until the key is on. mine was stuck closed fixed that ( look on u tube) and it started ok


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You likely just steam cleaned the internals for a brief stint. Just for good measure, here's what happens when you run the full output of your garden hose through a small car engine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSSSosql1zc#t=1m5s


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Does it sound like This? If so, it's new engine'o'clock.


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NEVER use anti-seize on spark plugs. Anti-seize has a metal base to it and not used sparingly, can short the electrode and cause a misfire. Also, if you have any questions, look up specs on all spark plug manufacturers about using anti-seize. ALL say not to in their spec sheets. Google "Should I use anti seize on spark plugs" and you will get your answer. I ...


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Goodness, this could be just about anything. What setting is the heater, ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) set at? I'd expect this as normal if the A/C compressor is engaged (which it is in normal A/C modes, plus defrost and defog modes...) I wouldn't necessarily expect fuel related issues with this description, but it would be nice to see if there ...


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It sounds like you are starting the journey investigating how your car works and how to maintain it properly. Awesome. I recommend that you start the trip with the purchase of a service manual (either Haynes or Chiltons) They run about $30 USD. That book will help you understand how things work. They provide troubleshooting guides for repairing issues. ...


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I also have 4 old ski's, ranging from a 1980 Kawasaki 550 stand up to a 93 Sea Doo xp, that I purchased from a woman that never rode it. It's like brand new,my pride and joy,looking thru her receipts. I found she had some motor work done to increase compression. This ski is faster than 90% of them out there.and the hull design makes it a blast to ride. Its ...


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P0100 A code P0100 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad The MAF sensor may be faulty If the MAF sensor element is dirty use disc brake cleaner. Do not use Throttle body cleaner because it will leave a residue that will muck up the sensor. A residue on the hot wire element ...


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The first thing that I would check for is a vacuum leak. Vacuum hoses rot over time making this is a common cause of engine speed problems at idle. Carefully examine all of the boots and hoses connected to your intake manifold.


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As long as the coolant does not boil (and your cooling system is in good shape) it is safe to drive. If you have a 50-50 mix of Anti Freeze and water and a 15lb radiator cap it will boil at 265 degrees F. I doubt you will ever see this max temp. Mobile One synthetic Motor Oil says it protects up to 500 F, so it would vary depending on brand and type of ...


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If the cooling system is working properly, the coolant temperature shouldn't be any higher than normal. Depending on whether the engine has an oil cooler, and what type it is, the oil temperature may rise. The safe limit for this is subjective, depending mainly on oil type, but as a ballpark figure a synth oil shouldn't have a problem going as high as 140c. ...


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My sister has a 2000 Cadillac DeVille And it's doing the same thing. A car has two lines that that the radiator cools the motor oil and the transmission fluid her car has oil in the radiator but not in the engine the line for oil has a Crack in it and that's what's causing the oil to get in the radiator fluid. So the line has to be replaced.


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Most common cause is the ECM Coolant temp sensor may be bad or out of range, replace it. If you have a scanner that can display live data this would help diagnose this as you can see the coolant temp the ecm is receiving from the sensor. Read the temp live data when it has starting issues. The temp when cold should be very close to outside air temperature.


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If I then pull the clutch and completely stay of the gas, the rpm stays at 6000 and doesn't drop Sounds like you did something wrong during the rebuild, all you can do is pull the carbs and check your work, also check throttle cables for proper routing and adjustment. Did you clean the fuel tank valve and screen?


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This is gas cap check valve. I tried to edit my post but It would let me. So here is a follow up for clarification. The check valve in the gas cap helps to regulate the pressure in the EVAP system.


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Milan, I recommend that you purchase a paper Chilton's or Haynes repair manual for your car. They cost around $30 at your local autoparts store. Many manufacturers have provided a 'secret' code that you can use to turn your check engine light into a blinking code reader. The instructions for that tend to be written in the repair manual (not all ...


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Regarding the whooshing sound when you remove the gas cap. This could be a defective gas cap check valve. The check valve performs 2 functions. When the fuel pump takes fuel from the tank the fuel volume decreases creating a partial vacuum inside the tank causing the fuel pump to work harder. The check valve injects outside air in to equalize the pressure ...


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Liter Class is a Reference from the FIM and AMA Superbike Series The term liter class was popularized in 1976 with the inception of the AMA Superbike Championship. The class has a 1000cc displacement limit and the term 'liter class' as slang for the 1000cc Superbike championship was born. Later, the class was reduced in displacement for safety reasons and ...


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There are three common units used when measuring engine displacement. The two you've found are cubic centimeters (cc) and liters (L). There are 1000cc in a L so conversion between the two is fairly straightforward. Smaller engines are often measured in cc because it is awkward to talk about your .205L engine - instead you would refer to it as a 205cc ...


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The 1000cc is the displacement of the engine. That means the total volume of all combustion chambers which is the area of all the cylinders times the length of the piston travel in the cylinder. Here is a picture of what that means: This image comes directly from Wikipedia. In the image the orange region shows the volume measured by the displacement. ...


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So you've replace a bunch of coolant related components and you want to know if anything leaks? You can borrow a coolant pressure tester from you local autoparts store in many locations (leave a deposit). You will place the tester on the fill cap (no matter where it is), pump up the pressure and then note the pressure on the gauge. Give it a few hours, ...


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Sometimes it is hard to tell the difference between a rod knock, wrist pin or piston slap in the early stages even when using a mechanics stethoscope. A main knock is a deeper sound that is more pronounced at the bottom of the block as apposed to the top when using a stethoscope. Hard knocks that happen at startup and go away quickly are a sure sign it is ...


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When you start the engine and you hear the sound, does it sound better after the vehicle is warmed up? A rod knock will only sound worse (louder) as the engine heats up. It will not go away as the engine gets warmer. If it does, it is probably something like an exhaust leak which closes itself as the engine manifolds get warm. The opposite could be true as ...


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The 3.7 is notorious for having a rocker arm fall off and or lifters collapsing. This is usually accompanied by a check engine light being illuminated. Use a stethoscope or a long screw driver and try to isolate where the knock is coming from. If it's coming from a valve cover, remove the valve cover and you're likely to find a rocker laying around. If ...


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The Royal Enfeild is a very old design. The motorcycle is based upon an old British design from World War II and has changed very little over the years. I do not know what type of quality control process the Indian manufacturing of the vehicle has implemented so that is very difficult to asses. It sounds like your gas cap vent or your fuel tank vent is ...


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Valves rotate slowly to scrape off the unburnt fuel particles settled on the valve seat. This is very much necessary when engine uses heavy fuel oil. Moreover rotating ensures that valves have uniform wear


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You want to make sure the oil reaches its operating temperature (80°C+) from time to time. The coolant temp. indicator is not too helpful with that. You may have to do 15km or more of normal driving for the oil to be at 80°, probably more when hyper-miling due to less heat produced/wasted in the engine. Water (from combustion/condensation) and unburned ...


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I apologize if my question wasn't as technical as you want. I would like to add I have no knowledge of cars and I'm just learning. I thought it was common sense to ask questions if you didn't know something. I am sure at one point you had no knowledge either. Its not a hard understand that no one knows anything until they sit down and learn. So ...


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One common cause of engine sludge is failure of, or lack of a PCV heater. Shown in the picture is the PCV crankcase breather hose. The hose attached to valve cover. Notice the small black tube below the breather hose, blue arrow, in a U shape. Notice also that it is attached to the breahter tube. This tube carries engine coolant. It purpose is to heat the ...


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You might have a tear in your CV carburetor diaphragm At the tops of your carburetors there is a cover with 4 screws that gives access to your CV diaphragm and slide. The CV (constant velocity) carbs adjust for barometric pressure automatically. The difference in pressure from your intake tract and the atmosphere raises and lowers you slide that has the ...


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Usually sludge and gelling is caused by infrequent oil changes or no changes at all. I have done a few motor jobs that had oil gelling and assumed it was the original oil that came in the engine. I call most Oil additives "mechanic in a can", and most do more harm than good. Regular oil changes prevent sludging and gelling.


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A couple of tests you can do to help determine what is happening. Head gasket: Compression test. minimum 120 psi, should all be within ~10% Oil and coolant are mixed. Check oil and coolant. Exhaust smells like coolant or burning oil. Might smoke excessively Bubbling in the radiator while running. Check plugs for oil/coolant. Cooling System: First, fix ...


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This is a bit difficult to diagnose over the internet, but it sounds like you have a coolant circulation problem as well as a pretty bad oil leak. I would take it to GMC or Chevrolet and pay them to diagnose it. It only costs $100.00. A skilled tech can tell you exactly whats wrong with it and how to go about fixing it. If it's a head gasket (Which it sounds ...


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A flashing check engine light means you have an active misfire. Driving your car while misfiring for an extended period of time can cause damage to your catalytic converter, so try not do do that. Studdering/juddering or however you want to describe it is also a definite sign of a misfire. Suspecting the coil(s) or wires is good, and that should be your ...


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You can adjust your valve lash You have nothing to worry about. Adjusting valve lash is a standard maintenance item and should be done upon any maintenance or tune up's of your vehicle. As you can see in the image, getting to the adjustment is quite simple. From there, follow your factory manual regarding reducing the amount of valve lash clearance. ...


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Alldatadiy is similar to Mitchell on Demand; some find the interface easier to use. Alldata Some sites that are not necessarily DIY, not free but can be most helpful if one can qualify for membership. I-atn.com: lots of threads on theory and technical discussions. Lots of help requests on specific problems. Membership has some restrictions. Moderate ...


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You can test your rings and head gasket with a leak down tester Checking your spark plugs as shown in @Zaid's post is the first order of business. You will see it on the plugs. Now, if you do see an oil fouled plug, you will need to identify the source of the oil. Possible Sources of Oil Intake valve guide seal Rings Head gasket PCV valve Any of ...


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spark plug wires should last a very long time, so just check them when you get the plugs done, and replace if they're worn out. wires don't really wear with distance, it's time and heat cycles that cause the insulation to eventually degrade. usually there good for several years look for cracking of insulation, particularly at joints. check for corrosion of ...


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Pull the spark plugs and inspect them. Oil-fouled spark plugs will look wet and black.


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Most manufactures have a website where repair data can be viewed and printed, some are easy to use some are almost impossible but the the info is in there. Some examples are: BMW: oss.bmw.de Peugeot: serivebox.peugeot.com VW: erwin.volkswagen.de Audi: erwin.audi.com Once you have an account set up you can pay for access in what ever time amount you ...


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There are physical repair manuals you can buy from a company called Haynes. The manuals are based on tearing down and rebuilding whatever car is in question and can be useful references if you are unsure the car you are working on.


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More than likely your Honda has a CVT transmission and this is normal behavior for a computer controlled CVT, to let it rev higher when under a load such as driving up a hill.


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New cars are good in hot or cold like others have said .Most old american stuff is good because the USA has big temperature extremes .Car manufacturers wanted the cars to go to Texas or Canada .Old British cars were primarilary designed for the British Isles .When they went to warmer climates like NZ and Australia there were overheating problems .Some ...


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I have a 2001 Pontiac Sunfire that HAD a similar issue. After having been looked at by far too many people, one mechanic figured out how to recreate the issue by pouring water on a certain part of the engine while running (sorry I'm not sure where exactly), but even that didn't shed much light on the issue since it was supposed to be acceptable to do that. ...


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The engine will be fine - cars are designed to work in all conditions anywhere in the world. VW has a testing center that can theoretically test their cars and engines to work from -40 to 150C (saves on flying development cars to Finland and the Sahara) There will be some differences in the car trim levels; for example, cars in hot countries probably ...



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