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Sorry to tell you this, but more than likely the engine is dead. If I am correct in assuming that the Kia Rio has aluminum heads, I'd go out on a limb and say that the heads are likely warped, and you are leaking oil into the cooling system. It could be an out of place gasket, but my guess is that it is either a crack somewhere in the water jacket or a ...


0

I just bought a new 15 plate fiesta ecoboost zetec and i bought it with 4 miles on it. I haven been told by Ford that the run in/ burn in procedure does not apply to this vehicle as it is made to adapt to any driving condition. Also i am covered for 3 services for 3 years and i dont need to change anything until my first service but they will do that :).


0

It's also called ''sway bar link''


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It looks as if the unloading valve is staying open hence all the boost going to waste. The valve then intermittently closes to function normally and randomly stays open.


3

It sounds like it's dieseling to a stop. As @mikes suggests, there are hot spots in the combustion chamber. This is usually because there is carbon buildup there. You'll need to clean the carbon out, plus check your timing, and also ensure your carb isn't dumping unwanted fuel. To clean the combustion chambers, I'd suggest a Seafoam treatment. Also, you can ...


1

Do any of the four cylinder car guys out there run this configuration? Yes, I believe Subaru does this. If not them, then the VW Beetle. If they do, what would they call those cams? I don't think they're called anything special. But I don't know for sure. In particular, I'm really curious, are there any similar solutions for Subaru platforms ...


3

I would check the idle speed first. Many older cars had a different idle speed for manual or automatic. Look for a vacuum leak as this could cause a slight idle speed increase. As could dirt holding the throttle plates open. Check the timing at the correct idle speed. If the timing is advanced the pistons can get hot spots. If the idle is high enough, after ...


1

To some extent, all combustion engines lose power in warmer conditions. Cold air is denser, and contains more oxygen, so more fuel can be burned, resulting in more power. Is it an incremental change in power, or do you notice that over a certain temperature, there is a large noticeable drop in power?


2

A few options to consider: Coolant concentration, but if the mechanics tested the gases to be sure they check the concentration level. Too little antifreeze in relation to water will negatively affect boiling temp. radiator is stopped up water pump veins warn off causing low coolant flow


1

Smoke is a white slight blue colour. At the gass station the attending and I both triple checked it. I was way over the full mark. I had driven the car and it was at temperature when switched off. This morning I pulled it out of the garage and then checked it three times and it was at the bottom stripe of the dipstick.


0

Bought a used 01 outback wagon with 200 k on it. After 3 years 1 major collision, hitting a deer at 60 and replacing the alternator starter and a set of tires, she finally gave out at 270000 miles. Heard a bad clunking sound coming from top end off my drive shaft just under the shifter. Figured the rear end in my tranny was going to go. I had made a pledge ...


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With the lack of information you've (haven't) provided, there is only one thing which I can think of which might be causing the noise you are describing, and that is if the main bearing in the front of the transmission is going out. When you push in the clutch pedal, the transmission is disconnected from the engine and is therefor not turning. When the ...


-1

Just thinking...replacing the evac purge module might help


0

Its called in the UK "running on". Though I am not a Suburu expert, this is usually caused by a weak mixture,inlet air leaks, wrong grade spark plugs,wrong grade fuel,over advanced ignition timing, glowing carbon hot spots in the combustion chamber, leaking fuel injector, overheating engine, or on some engines a electric inlet suction break valve failing. ...


1

If you look at your engine you will see that in 1974 almost all emission controls were connected to or controlled by a vacuum hose. As the hose ages it cracks and causes vacuum leaks. Many of the components had no vacuum applied until the engine was warm and above idle speed. This can result in good idle and performance cold but a vacuum leak and poor ...


0

I think you won't go far wrong by following Ducati Killers' advice. I started motorcycling in the mid fifties when every new or rebuild had to be "run in". The best advice I can offer is don't red line it untill you have at least 1,500 miles. Change the oil and filter every 500 miles for the first 1,500. Don't let the engine "labour" keep it spinning, no ...


3

A quick check showed that the factory 350 with a carb was rated at 175 HP, 210 if it had TBI (throttle body injection) the 190 HP crate motor should be enough. As a plus the crate motor will have a cam with a more modern design resulting in a better running engine. While 190 HP will be enough, you have to remember that mid 80's trucks were not intended to ...



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