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2

Think of stalling an engine as lugging it once. While not good for your engine/car, it won't do the same damage which is possible with lugging your engine. Stalling the engine is basically the engine not having the torque to overcome the demand which has been put on it. As far as lugging damage, check this answer. Lugging an engine can cause real damage.


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Running at low revs "lugging" is not really damaging provided you have appropriate oil pressure, but I'd question the mileage gained by it, modern ECU's will provide appropriate fuel and may run richer trying to raise these speed when you're trying to accelerate from an already high gear. Modern engines are far more tolerant than engines of decades past and ...


2

Rings generally wear at the same rate meaning that when it's time to replace one you should be replacing them all as they're not seating with the cylinder properly any more. Burning oil does not always imply a loss of compression. Cars with good rings will burn oil due to bad valve guides or bad valve guide seals. A compression test should help you ...


3

A stress riser (also known as a stress concentration or stress raiser is so called because there is more stress in one area which can cause fatigue cracks and ultimately cause part failure. This can happen in any part in the engine, but some parts are more prone to stress than others, so would suffer sooner. A stress riser can occur anywhere stress is ...


2

I don't know about material showing the difference, but the explanation is pretty easy: an interference motor has pistons and valves which share the same space within the engine at different times - if the cam/valve timing gets interrupted for any reason, damage between cam and valve may occur; the non-interference (or free running) motor does not have ...


0

I overfilled my brand new Craftsman Lawn Mower. Would NOT turn over at all. Drained the oil down to the proper level and cleaned up the spark plug. It fired up and there was a bit of white smoke but that soon dissipated. Has worked fine since!


2

I've worked on the lifters in a Dodge 6G72 engine ( and also the Dodge 2.2/2.5L engines). The lifters are oil filled. There is a tiny valve on them that allows oil in. When the vehicle has not been run for a while, or runs low on oil, the lifters will loose oil. As oil pressure build up, they will 'pump up'. So the issue is not that they are sticking, ...


4

I found a great article out there on the interwebz which explains this very well (and confirms my line of thinking) for the BMW M62 engine. I'm sure the explanation is pretty much the same for other engines of the same type. Basically, the author of the article states these engines do not have rocker arms, but instead uses a cam on lifter on valve setup. ...


4

Unfortunately, oil consumption in these engines can be quite large. GM has put out service bulletins which says that engine use up to 1 quart per 2000 miles is perfectly normal. I found some information on the bulletin: (NOTE: - I was unable to find the actual bulletin, but the following is an excerpt from it, which was copied into the forum link I provided ...


0

I'd imagine it is down to lubrication - if the engine isn't used for some time, the oil all seeps back down into the sump, and without lubrication, the lifters will stick. After running the engine again, oil has been pumped back up and worked it's way back around the lifters, lubricating them and freeing them up...


1

For anyone else reading this, an "engine flush" can be done by draining the old oil, filling up with new oil, going for a quick 100 mile drive, then draining and refilling again. It's not quite as thorough as a chemical flush, but it doesn't destroy the motor either.


4

Yes it can. The reason is, these are two different tests, done differently, reading different things. To understand this, you need to understand how the tool works for each test. For the compression test, the test apparatus captures and holds the compression as it builds through several, but counted revolutions of the crankshaft. You will get so much ...


3

Your question is subjective, but I can share some of my own experience in working with Subarus. The difficulty level of working on these engines will be defined by your mechanical ability and the type of work you plan on doing. Routine maintenance is fairly easy. The engine bay is easy to get around in my opinion, but it may take some getting used to. ...


3

It sounds to me as though they didn't put (enough) oil back in after the engine flush. First of all, it didn't need an engine flush. Mobil1 and other synthetics are renowned for not leaving deposits in the engine. I would bet your engine would have been sparkling clean on the inside. They sold you something you didn't need. (I'm betting something along the ...


1

More than likely what the problem is, your float in the fuel bowl is shot. When the float is shot (ie: doesn't float correctly in the fuel), too much fuel is let into the carburetor and causes the exact issues you are talking about. You may be able to get a new float and needle valve (very likely), but you may just be better off buying a new carburetor. ...


4

Engines are designed to withstand a certain amount of stress. When you exceed that threshold, longevity will start to deteriorate. I stated something to that effect in this answer. The engine has a redline where you shouldn't take its speed past. This redline is not the maximum speed which the engine car run, but more correctly the threshold which you ...


5

There are general things which you can do and look for to examine the mechanics work. These are not fool proof, but should give you an indication of the level of work the mechanic produced: Does the exterior of the engine look clean? In order to do a good rebuild, you need to have a clean block and head. If they aren't clean, what do you think the inside ...


1

With a rebuilt engine it would cost you some money and/or time to open it back up again, and inspect the re-builder's work to see if it is well done or not. So, basically, you are going on trust: either you trust the mechanic to have used quality parts and done a good job of fitting them, or not. Perhaps the best way to make sure would be to consult owners ...


3

A burnt valve can happen for one of many reasons, but the underlying issue is, the valve is not sealing correctly and allows hot engine gases during the combustion phase to leak past the seal which is formed by the valve and seat. When the seal is lost, the hot exhaust gases escape past the valve (can happen to either the intake or the exhaust valve, but is ...


5

When the engine is cold, the engine does not run as well, so it counteracts this by running at higher RPM to avoid stalling. The main issue is fuel vaporization. Fuel vaporizes at 196*F (91*c). Unvaporized (liquid) fuel does not burn. To keep the engine running while cold, the ECU adds in extra fuel. On carburetor engines, they used a choke. The rich ...


2

Are your mounts located directly near your exhaust manifold? Do they have a heat shield? The rubber can dry and crack due to the heat from the exhaust manifold if not properly insulated/protected from the heat. On my 944, there is a small tin heat shield that protects the mounts from the manifold. Leaking oil onto the mounts will also accelerate their wear, ...


1

If the engine is still revving as hard as it was in fourth it may be that your clutch is slipping and is due for replacement.


1

To add to Paul's answer - conventional boats are a very common application for old car engines, a good example of this being the 'long-tail' boats found in South-East Asia, which often use them: see This wikipedia page for example...


2

It simply means a half burnt valve thus preventing it from sealing against its seat When there is no sufficient cooling in the engine it may cause the seal of the valves to give way(exhaust valve generally), gradually over the course of time the exhaust gases escape even without the valve being fully open thus increasing the risk of further damage. A ...


2

Valves can bend, break and/or burn. If the valves don't provide a complete seal, for whatever reason, the hot gases are forced past the valve which eat away or burn away the edge of the valve due to concentration of heat and pressure. Causes that I can think of - Anything that causes incorrect valve seal Cooling issues (improper cylinder head ...


3

Basically the sky is the limit. If you can dream of something which it can connect to, you could utilize it. There are limits, of course. I mean, you couldn't pull out a 400lb engine and expect to put it in an RC car. If you can devise a way to mount it and attach it to an object which needs power, you can make it happen. Things which I've seen engines used ...


2

In four stroke petrol engines there are four parts to the combustion cycle; Suck (draw in fuel, piston dropping down the bore) Squish (compress the drawn in fuel, piston rising up the bore) Bang (the fuel is ignited and combusts, piston forced down the bore) Blow (push burned fuel into exhaust, piston rising up the bore) Because of the reciprocal nature of ...


1

There are three different engines offered for the Highlander & Camry which are the 3.0L V6. All three are of the 1MZ-FE model. It appears one version of the engine was used from 1994-2006 in the Camry. It produced 168–190 hp @ 5200–5400 rpm with 183–193 lb·ft of torque at 4400 rpm. Wikipedia says: Horsepower ratings dropped after the Society of ...


1

The easiest way to replace the DLC port is to find a vehicle exactly like yours (or even a close relative) and cut one from it. Then splice the "new" DLC port into your wiring, if you can find the point at which it was cut from the car. This would be an OBDI port you'd be looking for. If you do go this route, take as much wiring as you can get a hold of ...


1

If by "generic" you mean OBD1 or OBD2, the answer seems to be no according to this website. On another web page the table indicates that it is "OBD0".


0

When you first start the car check the exhaust pipe. Some condensation is normal if you get clouds of steam you may have a cracked head. You can get it tested at any reputable repair centre. Some manufacturers have increased engine capacity by boring out the cylinders this in some cases has left very little metal between the water jacket and the cylinder ...


3

To expand on Anarach's excellent answer; the burn rate of diesel is slower than petrol and at higher RPM you would risk the exhaust valve opening whist the mixture in the cylinder was still burning. Increase the RPM higher, especially on engines designed with some overlap so that inlet and exhaust valves are open at the same time and if you still have a ...


4

In Short its based on low burn rate of diesel plus the longer stroke of the diesel engine. First you must understand the difference between these engines, the diesel works on purely compression of fuel , heating and generating bang to produce power, the gasoline on the other hand is natively twitchy and needs a spark to explode and produce power on its own. ...


1

Valve covers leaking is only going to cover the engine in oil. As long as you have enough oil, its not an issue. The overheating sounds like a pinhole leak, or the radiator is partially clogged. Check for cold spots on the radiator. If you can, pull over when it gets hot and see if you can see any pinhole leaks spraying. You might want to clean the ...


4

Compression test is more to test if there is a problem. If your compression is low, it could be a number of different issues. You can test the rings by adding oil to the cylinder and see if the compression is higher. Other than rings it can be difficult to determine the source of the issue. A leakdown test will tell you where the problem is. By watching ...


0

There are Various Reasons as to why the car might not accelerate as expected , some of the most common faults for old vehicles are : Faulty Timing Belt This is one of the most common issues for old cars which causes improper or bad acceleration.Check if your timing belt is good. Problem with O2 sensor This sensor analyse the emissions which in turn ...


1

If your driving is consistent, you could test it out by measuring your gas mileage, with shutting your vehicle off at lights, and not shutting it off. You would want to average at least 3 tanks of each to make sure there aren't any weird outliers (stuck in traffic, muggy weather). If you want an exact answer for your vehicle, you would need some way to ...


4

A tachometer typically has 4 inputs - +12v, ground, signal and light. +12v goes to switched power, you can tap into the power for the radio or cig lighter. Ground goes to any good body ground. Light get tapped into the power for your dash lights (or headlights, fog, light signal to the radio, etc.) Signal typically goes to the negative side of the ...


0

If a vehicle starts but then the engine stops very soon after that, chances are that the alternator is dead as the battery without the alternator has only so much charge to sustain the motion for a brief while.


2

The Twinport Ecotech engine is the second generation of the GM Family 0 engine technology (also called Family Zero ... haha, could even be "Family Zed" in the right parts of the world, eh?). It works by having the ability to close off one of the two intake ports near the intake valve at low engine speeds, which speeds up the air entering the cylinder and ...


0

I think this is because of the main bearings. The oil enters from above into the bearings. A worn bearing will cause the gap between the axle and the bearing to be larger, and more oil will escape, which leads to lower pressure. This effect is bigger when you press the accelerator because the crankshaft will then be affected by a downward force from the ...


4

What are examples of designs that mitigate the issues of driving in heavy rain? The best mitigation is not to drive in it. Most roads are designed with a crown in the road (high spot in the middle), which allows the water to run off at a fairly rapid clip. This helps eliminate standing water to an extent. During extreme rain, this isn't possible and you ...


2

Hydroplaning, while this can happen on light rain as well, is when you loose traction with the road due to water build up on the road. When there is flooding, you want to take it slow, as the water could be deeper than you expect it to be, but also because if a current is strong enough, it could float your car up some and drag it down current with you ...


6

It sounds like there is an issue with something in the vehicle after it goes from open loop (before sensors are used to run the car) to closed loop (where the vehicle starts using inputs from the O2s, MAF, and other sensors). This switch over usually occurs about two minutes from a cold start-up. I would start by cleaning the MAF with electronics cleaner ...


3

The battery shouldn't make a difference, providing the alternator is working properly. However, if you don't have a starting problem, that suggests it isn't the battery that is the root cause of the problem - more like something electrical. From the symptoms you describe, it sounds more like a fuelling issue - perhaps the fuel pump is cutting out after a ...


1

In short, there are two reasons: Cooler air is more dense, so you get more power from the same boost pressure because you can inject more fuel at the same time. Hotter air will make the air/fuel mixture detonate prematurely (the mix needs to burn at a constant rate, at the exact right moment. It shouldn't "explode"). In the second instance this will mean ...



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