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Your engine does have one injector per cylinder (multipoint fuel injection), which is a good start. Some engines have single point injection, in which case you could not selectively cut fuel to a given cylinder. Unplugging the control wires to a fuel injector will stop the fuel delivery from that injector, as injectors are "normally closed" and require ...


3

While I can't provide the technical details as to why, I would say your weedeater is performing as expected. With full choke and full throttle, you are flooding it when the muffler is attached. I would expect that you would smell or even see fuel coming out of the exhaust. However, with the muffler removed, the backpressure is so low that the engine can blow ...


3

Here's an image of where the injector sits on the engine and what to look for to see if you can get at it. Since the one in the video which @mac provided is a 2007, this is a picture of one which is for your year (I believe they were the same from 1997-2003). Hopefully it will help you figure out if you can do it or not. Depending on which cylinder it is, ...


3

What it comes down to is there are trade offs. In the case of the engine, it's torque output and rotating mass versus engine speed ... read on. First, it isn't power which is needed, but torque to keep an engine running. In the early days of engines, each had one cylinder and didn't run very fast. To keep it running, it had a very large flywheel attached to ...


2

Your carb is plugged, probably due to ethanol gas. It is heck on these small engines. The easiest way to fix this is to replace the carb. The crud from the ethanol gets into the very small orifices and clogs them up. There is enough of a draw from the vacuum created under full choke for it to draw gas and keep it running, but once you take the choke off, the ...


2

This absolutely could be the issue. On fuel injected vehicles, the coolant temperature sensor is one of the key sensors used (O2, MAP, & MAF are others) in calibrating the fuel map stored in the computer. Without the computer knowing the temperature of the engine, it has to run in a "limp-home" or "open loop" mode (depending on how the vehicle ...


1

I would like to know how likely it is that it needs replacing... It is completely possible that you have a timing belt issue after only 46k miles (and almost 7 years); I believe that is what you are asking. That being said, if your car is currently running, your timing belt is intact and working. Timing belts are part of a routine maintenance and don't ...


1

It looks like it is down the side of the engine, on the left-hand side... It would appear that the filler is part of the oil recirculation system, there should be a hose going down into a round thing, the top of which should pull off (with the hose still attached) to allow you to top it up... This site has a scan of the owner's manual, Pages 5 and 51 seem ...


1

You could possibly get it out, but putting it back in would be nearly impossible. To do it correctly, you should put new bearings throughout (rods & mains). Putting new main bearings in requires checking clearances. You would not be able to do this by having the crank hang on the bearing caps. Since you spun a bearing, the engine block should be ...


1

It sounds very much like you've blown a head gasket. Even with a new vehicle such as yours, this is not unheard of. There are only two ways you'll get white smoke that I'm aware of, those being a blown head gasket or it sucking up automatic transmission fluid. A head gasket is much more common. I'm sure this thing is still under warranty, so get it down to ...


1

Concerning your oil question - the best way to tell if you can delay your oil changes is to have the oil tested. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ That is a great company to have it tested. They can do an analysis and tell you exactly how much impurities are in it and whether the oil still has more life in it or not. Again though, if your goal is just to ...



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