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I had something similar on a GM product in the early 80's. It was a cold solder joint on the voltage regulator feeding the guages in the instrument cluster. You can also check for cracks or breaks in the circuit board. This involves removing the instrument cluster and carefully examine visually. Check for continuity using an multimeter.


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I know this is an old thread, but Elon Musk tweeted a video of some people in Kazakhstan driving their Tesla through deep water. He then told that the Tesla can indeed operate as a boat, as the drive units and battery are sealed. But of course, you could still get water in the AC and into the cabin. Then you would probably have to change all air filters, ...


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If it's a 55 plate I assume it's either a very late Mk IV or most likely a Mk V. The Mk VI didn't start until 08. I suspect that it's most likely to be a wiring issue with the module in the drivers door. This could be caused by a trapped wire within the wiring that goes through the A-post or (more likely) moisture / water ingress which is usually caused ...


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an easy way to check current draw without an amp meter or any tools: go to the car after dark. pull and replace each of the fuses, 1 at a time. Watch for any kind of spark. If there is a spark then that circuit is drawing power. It could be one thing or a combination of multiple things. Another possibility could be bad diodes in the alternator, which ...


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It sounds a lot like the door switch on the drivers door is broken in a way that it gives the reverse indication of what's actually true. Some things you can try: Perform the same tests that you have listed, but open and close the passenger or one of the rear doors instead of the drivers door. I have a feeling they will work as expected. Do you have the ...


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This sounds like a regulator fault. I sell these alternators daily, and we cannot get the regulator as a spare part (well, not here in NZ, anyway). The alternator has a feedback terminal to the ECU. If it does it again, give the alternator connector a clean and see if it goes away. If it does, the issue is a loose connection. If it doesn't, then the issue ...


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The difference is smarts. A trickle charger provides a constant current all the time. It does not know whether the battery is charged or discharged. A battery tender is smart. It will charge the battery only when it needs charged. After it's done charging it will shut off and monitor the battery state. When it sees the battery get to something like 80% (...


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There are too many possibilities when it comes to draw. The compressor clutch could be staying on, alternator voltage regulator, a glovebox light, radio, computer etc... You're going to need to use an inductive amp probe and a multimeter to voltage drop the fuses. I'd avoid disconnecting battery terminals to hook an ammeter inline with the battery ground. ...


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I found the reason why it wouldn't turn over, it turns out the clutch safety switch was not being fully depressed when I pressed the pedal down and that was stopping power from getting to the starter. I pressed the switch down manually and it was able to turn over no problem. Being my first time working on an Rx-7 when i found out about the clutch cutoff ...


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It sounds as though the turn signal switch has gone bad. The contacts inside the switch are probably just worn out. Not sure on your Golf, but I believe these are pretty easy to purchase and to replace.


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@resident_heretic I'm pretty sure my Lancer uses H4 bulbs, I can see the two filaments within the bulb. Regardless I tested the bulb on another vehicle and it worked fine, both high and low beam. I believe it is indeed the switch, as the high beam toggle no longer works, it will only stay on while it is held on. Also after turning the high beam on and off ...


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The lancer's headlights are H11 type bulbs which are single filament. Perhaps the bulb is merely burnt out. Since low beams usually get more use than high beams they tend to burn out first.


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When you say power to all terminals, do you mean all three? You need a ground connection to complete the circuit so the light will turn on. You should have two filaments in each bulb. Both filaments should share a ground connection and have a connection for high and one for low. You should have power to one when on low and the other on high, then ground on ...


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There may be a lead plate weld broken inside the battery. I would try a new battery, or at least determine if the battery is taking a charge before trying anything else. You can measure the OCV "open circuit voltage" of the battery by connecting a voltmeter between the positive and negative terminals of the battery with the the car completely off. And NO ...


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After looking at the circuit diagram, I will try and clarify what wires should go where. The ignition/starter circuit (key and Start button) should not be connected in any way to the Stop button and Lanyard. Testing the Start circuit. With the key turned to the ON position, you should get ~12v on one side only of the start button (can't tell what colour ...


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Solid black is your ground. That's standard on most vehicles, and certainly on Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep.


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The transmission and its control systems will not be damaged by this practice. Safety could be compromised if the shifter is left in this position. The park lock will not be engaged so the vehicle could roll away. This is a system internal to the transmission that is a back-up to the parking brake. It is important to move the shifter back to the P position ...


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Only issue I found is the Oil Pressure switch must be changed for an adjustable one of around 30-50psi as a normal 5psi will not allow proper starting when engine is warm. I used the ground from the oil pressure switch for a relay to operate the starter through the push button. The light on the start button comes on once the key is turned to on. Once you ...


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From the picture it looks as if your brushes are completely worn out. If there's no other fault, that is (theoretically) an easy and cheap fix. It appears however that getting brushes for this particular starter isn't as easy as it normally should be. For more information have a look at this thread: http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php/topic,11947.0.html as ...


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There are companies that can recondition these, at least here in the UK. I have had one of mine done before in a couple of days. I assume they must use common components due to the fast turn around.


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If your problem is the lanyard, you should be able to disconnect the wires from it to test. It looks like it is in parrallel to the stop switch and should function the same electrically as the stop switch. Though you mention it going to the ignition switch or do you just mean the panel? The voltage to the key switch and start button should be 12 and the ...


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I did a quick check on the schematic and it appears that the two circuits are completely separated from each other. I also noted that the fuel sender circuit number is 36 and the horn is 63. You might want to carefully review the schematic.


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If it turns over but doesn't start change the spark plugs if it's been sitting for a couple months


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i would assume that drl is either a relay or a circuit breaker for the running lights . You may have a either a short circuit (which would cause a circuit breaker to open) or a broken or loose cable or wire. Check your battery connections and cables to make sure everything is clean and tight.


3

I have a 2005 Golf MKIV and it did this also. Lost a/c, fans, overheated. The B+ wire from the alternator to the battery appears to be too small a gauge. I went to a larger gauge wire and replaced the fuse block on top of the battery. It also appears that the contacts for the three green fuses are not to tight fitting. My wife's a/c went out again last week. ...


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Calculate it yourself: If you have a full 66Ah battery, it will be drained within 66Ah/22A=3h. BUT: A battery degrades over time, after a few years, the capacity isn't 66Ah any more. An almost empty battery isn't capable to deliver the same max. current as a full battery. If it's almost empty, you could have problems staring your motor. This is even more ...


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Check the grounds and fuses battery could be junk jump the starter from the battery to the starter and if it works change the fuse


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I think you will need schematics and a test light for this one. Basically, it is either going to be the BCM or the switch. If the switch is reading 'on' when it shouldn't, then its the switch. If the switch is reading 'off' and the lights are on, its the BCM. If these are daytime running lights, you will need to determine the logic, but it should be ...


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I'm concerned about leaving the inverter on when the car is parked and draining the battery. How hard would it be to wire the inverter so that it is only enabled when the engine is running, or at least when the accessories are on? For a 500 W inverter you should use a relay rated at 50A minimum (see resident_heretic's calculations). The schematic should be ...


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With inverters you also have to take into consideration the efficiency of the inverter itself when calculating power requirement. For example: 12V outlet is rated at about 10A or 120W. Inverter is 87% efficient. 120W * .87 = 104.4 W =Max size of inverter to use is 100W You can use a battery isolator -check at places that sell equipment for RV's. A ...


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Make sure to check all of the safety features that were included on the bike. Kickstand up, in neutral, clutch in, kill switch set to run, and key on.


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Perhaps the switches in your "turn signal stalk" (the lever on the side of the steering wheel you describe with the "blinker stick" problem) are damaged. This may cause all sorts of lights on/off issues. The Body Control Module "BCM" on GM cars like your Malibu control every single thing from security, radio codes, cluster (gauges), and ashtray contents. ...


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The power in the in pins 1 and 3 proves that fuse 19 is OK and that the PCM will turn on PGMFI relay #1 and further that said relay will supply power to the fuel pump relay (PGMFI relay #2). It does not prove that the relay is good. My next tests would be apply power to Pin #2 and see if the fuel pump activates. If not repair the pump. If the pump works ...


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This shouldn't be too crazy. You will probably need a multimeter to test things. (If you watch the specials carefully, there is at least one tool outlet that gives these away as special coupon deals I would start the journey with the service manual. It's available here. Check out section #6, electrical. Your system is pretty simple. A couple of ...


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Theory 1 From your wiring diagram the horn relay has only 3 contacts; 12v, horn, button. This layout dictates that the horn button should ground the horn relay and not send it 12v. This is because the horn relay does not have it's own ground. Sending the relay power may cause things to behave strangely. Theory 2 The sending unit is a very old style. ...


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According to the wiring diagram the power is supplied to the bulbs through the relay and then one fuse for each bulb. If the high beams work then the relay and fuses are working. The lights are controlled by the light switch by switching the ground side of the circuit. The high and low beam filaments are selected by this switch. If one set of the filaments ...


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Some cars have timers that keep the lights on for so many seconds after you close the door, this is done with an electronic timer and the timer may not be compatible with led's, leaking voltage. Only solution is to locate the timer and wiring diagram for it and bypass the timer, this would require some skill.



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