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It will either be a problem with the switch or with the regulator (motor). Usually if it's the motor, it will overheat and stop working (partially roll down and stop), then after a while it will work again and move the window another inch or two. If it's the switch, it could partially work or not at all. It is highly unlikely it would be the wiring, as it ...


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Very descriptive answer, however I don't agree with the constant power source. In my experience I would use #42 (20a fuse) for the driver's window. Even with the in line fuse it's possible to surge the fuse and if it were to blow you'd only lose the power window on driver's side/(rather insignificant when it comes to safety). Besides that, I agree completely ...


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Does air come out of the dash outlets when the A/C is off and the fresh air/vent is turned on? If yes, then the problem is unique to the A/C pathway/controls, and air must not be moving through it. There may be an obstruction in the A/C plenum or air ducts, perhaps a stuck valve. But if no, and neither fresh air nor A/C air is moving, then I suspect your ...


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It could be that the switch has failed. I don't see a real reason for it doing it during a battery change, though (doesn't make sense, but sometimes you have to look at what seems right). I doubt it is the resistor pack, either. Not because you inspected it, but because of how the resistor pack works. A resistor pack works by having resistors which lower the ...


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I believe this to be correct. G5B6882230170 6 means 2006, 88 means 8.month = august, 22nd day of, etc


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I have the same problem. I put my amp meter in between the positive lead and the positive terminal of the battery. It should draw 1/4 amp at rest. If it doesn't leave the amp meter inline as is and start pulling fuses. My case was two fold , the power amp to the radio which is located under the rear seat. That dropped it down 8 amps or so. Still too high. ...


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It is standard in electrical work to consider one blown fuse an anomaly not worth investigating. However, if the replaced fuse blows, then investigate. Of course, you should still do basic electrical inspections and repair anything questionable. In this case, maybe check connections and lead conditions. Also: never, ever bypass a fuse. Not even for ...


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2002 intrepid would just click click click. jump it, it would fire right up. autozone alt/battery are good. took off all negative cables and cleaned them tighten them all backdown and the car fired right up..


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The camera's red/black cable is the power cable; the black wire goes to a ground (any metallic part of the chassis will do), and the red wire goes to a +12V that will be powered whenever you want to use the camera, so connecting it to the reverse lights, but you can also connect it to anything powered when you turn on the ignition if you don't mind it being ...


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Double check side marker/turn indicator bulbs. Many times a side bulb will stop working (check the good side to ensure you know where to look on the bad side) causing the same fast blinking which you see when a front or tail light has gone dark.


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Went to the mechanic, and the voltage looked good at 14,4v +- when everything (car, airco, lights, radio) were on. Looks like my multimeter is busted. Need to buy a new 9v battery for my multimeter to test if that fixes the offset, or I'll try to calibrate my multimeter. Anyways, always test with another multimeter if in doubt.


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A Good Ground All the coils on that bike want are a good ground. If you can find a good spot on the frame to mount them that isn't in the way you are good. Feel free to weld a couple of tabs onto a random convenient spot anywhere on the good iron from that you can. Best of luck.


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Look at the instruction manual for the camera. The wire (mostly likely black) it tells you to connect to ground, connect to ground. The wire (mostly likely red) it tells you to hook to the back up lights run to a switch that is fused and powered off a circuit that's hot in run and accessory. You could also run the monitor off the same switch for ...



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