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I'd check to make sure no power wire is near the spark plug wires. That's caused similar sound for me in my '88 civic wagon with aftermarket stereo. RPM dependant, almost like a turbo whine hahah. 3yrs old but maybe this could help someone else?


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For starting an engine, the battery should have a minimum voltage of 9V and above. if that is not available, then starter will be able to crank the engine, albeit weakly but would not be able to start the car. Low battery voltage can happen due to a defective battery or because of quiescent current consumption that drains the battery. Generally Battery is ...


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The part of starting a car that takes the most energy is overcoming the compression inside the cylinders. When the engine is running, the fuel/air mix in each cylinder is compressed by the firing stroke of another cylinder, but when starting, the starter motor has to do it all. If you think that the engine was turning over, but it was not starting, it is ...


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I think this is most likely the switch, mainly due to it not working on either mirror. You can more than likely test the switch theory by pulling the switch out and jumping the leads directly to see if movement occurs one either of the mirrors in the direction you desire. I don't have a layout of the wiring, so I would first find where the power lead is at ...


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Finally got a chance to mess around with it and confirmed an answer I found. All the blinker lights have to be connected in order for it to blink. Connected them all and now everything is working with the blinkers!


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When a starter is energized and cranking the engine, it will pull more power than any other electrically operated part on the vehicle. You say you think the car was cranking over ... I'd submit that maybe what you thought you heard was not what was actually happening.


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I'm guessing that the voltage regulator/rectifier (R/R for short) may have 'burned up'. When this happens your battery no longer gets charged. Use a multi-meter to check the R/R for resistance as well as voltage as part of your testing procedure -- here's a post than can help with the testing. Make sure you are using a known good battery! Also visually ...


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Tail light fuse will be third from the left along the top row. As for a concise fuse diagram with full descriptions... Will that do?


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I believe this means the regulator is going out of the alternator, but not sure. The code I saw for a 94 Jeep says, "Fault in the charging system or no field current." Could be several things, but thinking you need to get your alternator load tested. I believe an AutoZone, Checkers, O'Reilly, or Advanced Auto can do this for you. It could also be that the ...


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Your Alternator might be broken, Its the Job of the Alternator to charge up your battery whenever you drive. This is fairly common for old vehicles"Dont worry" In case your alternator is new but still you are facing the same issue then probably there is something wrong with your electrical system.Usually when Rats and other creatures enter a vehicle there ...


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The engine not turning over is related to your starter circuit or your starter relay. If you have a good battery and your relay is functioning, you will here a clicking sound as you turn the ignition key to try and start the car. The power windows and radio have their own circuits, typically dedicated to the use. Radio, circuit, window circuit, lights, ...


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Might be a possible alternator failure. You can check the battery voltage. It should be ~12V when not working and ~14ish on idle. This kind of faulty alternator causes something like that.


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I have an Innova Equus 3160. It reads both air bag (SRS) and anti-lock brake (ABS) system codes, plus provides live data of the vehicle. There are other brands out there as well, though I don't know how well those work. The Equus one I have works great. There are also the bluetooth options. I'm not sure how well they work, either. While these are options ...


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A quick Google search resulted in this. I couldn't find the legend for it but I guess it should be fairly straightforward. It could be bad wiring, bring out the multi-meter! EDIT Here's a link to the COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL . It's in German, so you may need to use a translation service .


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The problem is resolved. I ended up taking it to the dealership, where apparently the fix was to "redo all of the fuses in the engine compartment". I doubt the problem was that I had a fuse in the wrong spot, seeing as I didn't touch the fuses when I changed the battery, and I know for a fact the blower worked the day before changing the battery. ...


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In a word: Battery You can check all of the things which maplemale suggests and that's not a bad idea. From your description, though, it points right to the battery being the issue. From your description of how the "lights were bright and no warning lights", this points directly to the battery to me. Pull the thing and take it down to AutoZone, Advance ...


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Let's start with the most likely culprit which is the battery. The other components you mentioned could be an issue, but it's less likely given what you've told me. There are several things you should do: Check the age of your battery. There should be little stickers on the top or side, usually round with numbers in them. One set of numbers will be the ...


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@Paulster2 was on the right track. It was an electrical issue. The back-plane of the engine-mounted fuse box was melted. This is also why testing the electronics didn't do any good because the physical assembly the electronics plugged into was damaged.



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