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The following was suggested by someone else on another website and worked for me!! After being towed several times, now I just pull the relay out and plug it back in. Takes only a minute or two and I have done it about 10 times now. When the vehicle doesn't start, I simply go to the fuse panel under the steering wheel and remove the relay labeled ...


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Disconnect the sender unit and check the continuity with an ohm meter. If if measures open circuit the sender is faulty and should be replaced.


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There will be a sensor switch in the door jam, check that it can move freely and lubricate it if necessary. Also check its wiring for chaffed insulation or a corroded connector


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For a start your starter motor is the cylindrical thing to the right of #9 in this picture I'd check it has a good connection to ground (is the resistance between the - negative terminal of battery to the outer steel of the starter lots less than 1?) Whip the seat off and check the starter relay and see if theres any corrosion and it's nice and tight. ...


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Is the rotor on this alternator a permanent magnet or is it a coil? If its a coil it will need an excitation current for the alternator to work.


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It turns out I had 2 fuses that were burnt out. Some ignition one and the alternator fuse under the hood. I'm hoping they were blown when the car was initially jumped and there is no other underlying cause. Thank you for your responses they were very helpful.


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There are several reasons why a car would not even attempt to start. A few to try first... Flat battery - you have tested this, so we can assume it's ok. Loose/poor connection to the battery - this would result in no power to anything, so I'm guessing this isn't the problem as you have some power Immobiliser - If you have one fitted, this might have got ...


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If the battery is fine, then you may have a fuse issue, which headlights not turning on at all would be a strong indication of (those are incandescent/halogen types, so they put out some kind of light down to scary low voltage and amperage). Check fuses for the components not working and replace any blown ones with the proper rated fuse, which is usually ...


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no it is the relay switch remove it and put back in it is located on the fuse box under the hood fixed my problem hope this helps


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I'm thinking, from your description, that the problem is the blinker relay, not a fuse. The lights themselves should go through the tail lamp fuse. The relay is what gives the characteristic ticking sound. The emergency flashers usually run off of a separate blinker relay, but may be the same thing. If so, you can use it to test between the two. These relays ...


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Assuming you connected the positive terminals and negative terminals together on the jump, there shouldn't have been any harm done to the bike's electrical system or battery. Take the battery to an auto parts store and have them test it. If the battery fails their test, replace the battery. Next, check the main fuse, usually on the same cable as the ...


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I've had a similar problem. Alternator voltage regulator failed and the alternator was overcharging. Freaked out the car electronics and fried the battery. Replaced alternator and battery and all was well in that case, HOWEVER, wiring damage could also occur, which may take pulling the harness and inspecting the wiring (which I've also had to do after ...


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Your instrument panel is part of the ECU on your vehicle, electrically. If the GEM has been substituted and still the problem has remained, a critical look at the instrument panel is required. Moisture or dampness, even a water entry from the windscreen, could cause corrosion to the IP and cause mis-function. Fords had this problem with European Focus's.



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