Hot answers tagged

9

This shouldn't be too crazy. You will probably need a multimeter to test things. (If you watch the specials carefully, there is at least one tool outlet that gives these away as special coupon deals I would start the journey with the service manual. It's available here. Check out section #6, electrical. Your system is pretty simple. A couple of ...


7

The transmission and its control systems will not be damaged by this practice. Safety could be compromised if the shifter is left in this position. The park lock will not be engaged so the vehicle could roll away. This is a system internal to the transmission that is a back-up to the parking brake. It is important to move the shifter back to the P position ...


6

The difference is smarts. A trickle charger provides a constant current all the time. It does not know whether the battery is charged or discharged. A battery tender is smart. It will charge the battery only when it needs charged. After it's done charging it will shut off and monitor the battery state. When it sees the battery get to something like 80% (...


6

From the picture it looks as if your brushes are completely worn out. If there's no other fault, that is (theoretically) an easy and cheap fix. It appears however that getting brushes for this particular starter isn't as easy as it normally should be. For more information have a look at this thread: http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php/topic,11947.0.html as ...


4

I know this is an old thread, but Elon Musk tweeted a video of some people in Kazakhstan driving their Tesla through deep water. He then told that the Tesla can indeed operate as a boat, as the drive units and battery are sealed. But of course, you could still get water in the AC and into the cabin. Then you would probably have to change all air filters, ...


4

Make sure to check all of the safety features that were included on the bike. Kickstand up, in neutral, clutch in, kill switch set to run, and key on.


4

It sounds as though the turn signal switch has gone bad. The contacts inside the switch are probably just worn out. Not sure on your Golf, but I believe these are pretty easy to purchase and to replace.


3

Solid black is your ground. That's standard on most vehicles, and certainly on Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep.


3

The best way (high quality of job, pride in workmanship) is to: Pick up an assortment of different diameters of heat shrink tubing. Remove the entire harness from the bike. Do NOT skip this step. If you try to cut corners here the results will be bad. (No Whining!) Cut the sheathing back ten inches from the damage area. Purchase up a few feet of the same ...


3

Sounds like a dead alternator. I had that same issue years ago with an '89 VW fox. The reason that everything was slowly shutting down is because you driving on the battery alone. As the battery was getting drained the voltage was falling below the affected component operating threshold voltage and they would begin to cut out. The process would take about ...


3

I had something similar on a GM product in the early 80's. It was a cold solder joint on the voltage regulator feeding the guages in the instrument cluster. You can also check for cracks or breaks in the circuit board. This involves removing the instrument cluster and carefully examine visually. Check for continuity using an multimeter.


3

Calculate it yourself: If you have a full 66Ah battery, it will be drained within 66Ah/22A=3h. BUT: A battery degrades over time, after a few years, the capacity isn't 66Ah any more. An almost empty battery isn't capable to deliver the same max. current as a full battery. If it's almost empty, you could have problems staring your motor. This is even more ...


3

With inverters you also have to take into consideration the efficiency of the inverter itself when calculating power requirement. For example: 12V outlet is rated at about 10A or 120W. Inverter is 87% efficient. 120W * .87 = 104.4 W =Max size of inverter to use is 100W You can use a battery isolator -check at places that sell equipment for RV's. A ...


3

There are companies that can recondition these, at least here in the UK. I have had one of mine done before in a couple of days. I assume they must use common components due to the fast turn around.


3

This sounds like a regulator fault. I sell these alternators daily, and we cannot get the regulator as a spare part (well, not here in NZ, anyway). The alternator has a feedback terminal to the ECU. If it does it again, give the alternator connector a clean and see if it goes away. If it does, the issue is a loose connection. If it doesn't, then the issue ...


3

I have a 2005 Golf MKIV and it did this also. Lost a/c, fans, overheated. The B+ wire from the alternator to the battery appears to be too small a gauge. I went to a larger gauge wire and replaced the fuse block on top of the battery. It also appears that the contacts for the three green fuses are not to tight fitting. My wife's a/c went out again last week. ...


2

The power in the in pins 1 and 3 proves that fuse 19 is OK and that the PCM will turn on PGMFI relay #1 and further that said relay will supply power to the fuel pump relay (PGMFI relay #2). It does not prove that the relay is good. My next tests would be apply power to Pin #2 and see if the fuel pump activates. If not repair the pump. If the pump works ...


2

I'm concerned about leaving the inverter on when the car is parked and draining the battery. How hard would it be to wire the inverter so that it is only enabled when the engine is running, or at least when the accessories are on? For a 500 W inverter you should use a relay rated at 50A minimum (see resident_heretic's calculations). The schematic should be ...


2

@resident_heretic I'm pretty sure my Lancer uses H4 bulbs, I can see the two filaments within the bulb. Regardless I tested the bulb on another vehicle and it worked fine, both high and low beam. I believe it is indeed the switch, as the high beam toggle no longer works, it will only stay on while it is held on. Also after turning the high beam on and off ...


2

There are too many possibilities when it comes to draw. The compressor clutch could be staying on, alternator voltage regulator, a glovebox light, radio, computer etc... You're going to need to use an inductive amp probe and a multimeter to voltage drop the fuses. I'd avoid disconnecting battery terminals to hook an ammeter inline with the battery ground. ...


2

So beneath that fuse is a wiring terminal. It's obvious that your terminal got pushed in so far that the fuse spades no longer touch anything. The good news is that everything is in there. The bad news is you will have to dissemble everything and reseat the wiring terminals on the inner surface of that fuse box cover. That could be very ugly depending on ...


1

Please stop testing your starter with a screwdriver! You could get hurt. A simple volt-meter or multi-meter is a good investment for a home mechanic. Is your starter cable fused? Check the fuse with your new multi-meter and then you can check the voltage back to the battery negative post. It's possible the earth strap has come off your engine and there's no ...


1


1

If it's a 55 plate I assume it's either a very late Mk IV or most likely a Mk V. The Mk VI didn't start until 08. I suspect that it's most likely to be a wiring issue with the module in the drivers door. This could be caused by a trapped wire within the wiring that goes through the A-post or (more likely) moisture / water ingress which is usually caused ...


1

It sounds a lot like the door switch on the drivers door is broken in a way that it gives the reverse indication of what's actually true. Some things you can try: Perform the same tests that you have listed, but open and close the passenger or one of the rear doors instead of the drivers door. I have a feeling they will work as expected. Do you have the ...


1

When you say power to all terminals, do you mean all three? You need a ground connection to complete the circuit so the light will turn on. You should have two filaments in each bulb. Both filaments should share a ground connection and have a connection for high and one for low. You should have power to one when on low and the other on high, then ground on ...


1

There may be a lead plate weld broken inside the battery. I would try a new battery, or at least determine if the battery is taking a charge before trying anything else. You can measure the OCV "open circuit voltage" of the battery by connecting a voltmeter between the positive and negative terminals of the battery with the the car completely off. And NO ...


1

Only issue I found is the Oil Pressure switch must be changed for an adjustable one of around 30-50psi as a normal 5psi will not allow proper starting when engine is warm. I used the ground from the oil pressure switch for a relay to operate the starter through the push button. The light on the start button comes on once the key is turned to on. Once you ...


1

Perhaps the switches in your "turn signal stalk" (the lever on the side of the steering wheel you describe with the "blinker stick" problem) are damaged. This may cause all sorts of lights on/off issues. The Body Control Module "BCM" on GM cars like your Malibu control every single thing from security, radio codes, cluster (gauges), and ashtray contents. ...


1

I did a quick check on the schematic and it appears that the two circuits are completely separated from each other. I also noted that the fuel sender circuit number is 36 and the horn is 63. You might want to carefully review the schematic.



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