Hot answers tagged

6

Suction is the answer. You can buy a suction grip in a hardware store, but if the dent is shallow enough (ie pushed in rather than really dented) a toilet plunger might do it.


6

If you're getting enough moisture into the seal/door interface, the seals are already failing. It's time to replace them. However, if you want to hold it off for a little while, vaseline is fine. It'll slowly degrade the seals further, but well, they're already done for at this point... Best thing to do is to use silicone lube on the seals occasionally ...


5

If you cannot manually lock the door, the power locks will not work because all it does is move the mechanical linkage. This sounds like the linkage or latch (the lock mechanism is in the latch) is binding on something. Take the door panel off and inspect the linkage and latch. You may have to take the latch out of the door to inspect it close enough.


5

I'm guessing water in the latch mechanism somewhere. Try displacing the water (when it's above freezing) with some WD-40, let it sit awhile, then lubing with a silicone based lube (not sure if that's the best option, but it's what comes to mind, would like to see other opinions on the best latch lube).


5

The fact that you can here some noise from the door with the inoperational lock is an indication that the wiring is fine. There is a good chance that the door lock actuator has gone bad and needs to be replaced.


4

I have a Focus 2010 model and can confirm that Bobs advise is absolutely right. The same thing happened to me this evening when my passenger door when opened wouldn't latch in again (currently outside temp minus 5c). Just 10 seconds using a hair drier on the latch solved the problem for me. I also then sprayed the mechanism with WD40 for good measure. Had ...


4

It if was freezing outside, it was almost certainly colder inside the latch mechanism. It sounds like ice formed on the spring and / or the latch hinge. You were able to use the leverage of the door handle to move the latch against the friction of the ice but then the spring wasn't able to push it back. When something like this happens, I would suggest ...


4

I would use spray trim adhesive as a first choice, it adheres very well and I have used it for such jobs. If I didn't have that available, I'd use gorilla glue for its waterproof and expanding properties (though a little more hassle than I'd like to put into it), or as a third option general spray adhesive.


4

We had the same problem on a late 2005 W169. Note you do not need to remove the door card if you just want to remove the door lock cylinder and exterior handle. Once you've loosened the bolt holding the cylinder accessed from the side of the door (On ours it was a T20 - T15 would work but there's a chance of rounding off the head) there is a catch above the ...


4

What you are describing is generally caused by the door lock actuators wearing out. It's common on a lot of cars once they get some age on them. They are usually available aftermarket, and some can be a pain to swap out.


4

Referencing the photo it appears the retaining clip is still in place. At the 12 o'clock position you will notice a square shaped tag. Lifting the tab away from the bracket pry the clip in the direction of the small hole that the tab sat in. Again referencing the photo this would be going up. With the amount of corrosion visible I would try to wire brush ...


4

Try using some graphite lube on the lock cylinder before you give up on it. If you remove the lock cylinder, disassemble it, and clean it, you may improve it's function. You should also be able to get the lock cylinder re-keyed at the dealer or a locksmith prior to installation.


4

PROBLEM As you can see in the photo, on the lock actuator replacement part for my car door there is a plastic part (left) and a metal part (right). The two parts, metal and plastic, are supposed to move as one unit. If the unit is rotated anti-clockwise then the door lock will be in the locked position. If the door is rotated clockwise then the door would ...


3

Remove the inside door handle and see if the linkage is diconnected.You might be lucky and be able to reattach it if you can retrieve it from inside the door.If not remove the inside door panel you will find a rod has become diconnected between the inside door handle and the latch.It is possible that the handle broke or a retaining clip fell off allowing the ...


3

This is almost certainly one of the door 'pin switches' out of adjustment. Try making up a pad of some sort where the door shuts onto the switches. I have used stick on wheel weights quite effectively for this!.


3

Okay I have lived through this and replacing the seals does need to happen when this becomes a problem. However, seals going bad are not always the problem. Sometimes it is simply a matter of the seals or the metal they contact got wet while the doors are open then you close them and they freeze. The down side here is this can also ruin the seals. The hands ...


3

Even though we all laughed at him, a friend used the As-Seen-On-TV Suction cup dent puller and it actually popped the dent in his quarter panel. It is not perfect, but it did it to his satisfaction. You could also take the inside door panel off to be able to push it from the other side as well.


3

There are really only two possibilities, or a combination of both. First, the motor may be failing. Over time, they get "tired" and will open and close sluggishly. Before your sunroof malfunctioned, did you notice it getting more sluggish over time? Opening, closing, or both? The second possibility is a physical obstruction. The click you are hearing ...


3

I've had central locking refusing to stay locked with several cars when any of the door sensors (or boot lid sensor, or even engine cover sensor) thinks its door is open - whether it's actually the case, or the sensor has jammed for some reason. This hypothesis can be checked by setting the interior lighting to the setting where it lights upon open doors. In ...


3

With the damage which is there, a suction cup dent puller is not going to do the job you are looking for it to do. If there was only "dent" damage, the suction cup can sometimes remove them. When you have creasing, pulls, dents, and paint transference, you are going to need a body shop to get this fixed. Alternatively, you could find a replacement door at ...


3

Follow Paulster2's comment is to get a perfect result. But prior to going to a body shop or going to the scrapyard, you might try this: As the dent looks really clean to me, another possibility might be to remove the inner door trims and push against the dent from the inside. You might be able to reach the dent from the inside without too much parts that ...


3

The heated mirrors have a restive heat strip spiraled around the back of the mirror. It works much like the defrost "wires" on a rear car window but since its a mirror, you can't see them. The MkIII Jetta didn't have a control for the heated mirrors - they were always on, and would fail more often than the switched ones on newer cars, but failure does ...


2

Essentially, you want to displace the potential condensation that will form after the air inside a warm car cools down. The best suggestion that I have heard is silicone based grease or sprays. Those will discourage the water from sticking around and, later, becoming ice. Anything that might react with rubber is definitely not recommended. This includes ...


2

Check to see if your door lock sequence mode got changed. change-door-lock-sequence


2

If this is only happening when the vehicle is in motion, I'd visually trace the wiring and look for a point where a wire or wire bundle is rubbing on something and has worn through the insulation. If it doesn't exhibit the problem when it's parked, it's going to be hard to track down with a multimeter or test light. Unless you can reproduce it by gently ...


2

I would imagine that, orn a car of that age, it ought to work fine. On a newer car the modules might not recognise each other, however you ought to be able to swap the control modules from the old doors to the new ones, so all the modules are still matched to the car. Mechanically, it is exactly as you describe, although you might find that some care is ...


2

For a preliminary inspection, I would arm the alarm, then walk around and pull on each door. If it doesn't go off, then you're probably looking at wiring. Bang on the metal of each door and see if you can make the light come on. Tug in the harness under the dash and the lower side kick panels in front of the doors and under the dash. The two most common ...


2

The "default" speakers in your car should be bi-wired ones. The 6-speaker layout in your car should have 2 speakers in the front, 2 tweeters in the front and 2 speakers in the back. The speakers in the back of your car should only have 2 strands each. The 4 strands of the connector on the front speakers are composed of two strands for LF - low frequency (the ...


2

The electrical window regulator is exactly what the name suggests; it is responsible for providing a frame which the window glass can slide up and down on and house the window motor. If the door lock does not work any more it is highly unlikely that the window regulator is to blame. Under normal circumstances, window regulators do not "fly apart" when ...


2

As Zaid says, the window regulator does not have any connection with the door lock control. What I suspect has happened is that they had to disconnect the door locks from the inside handle in order to remove the door card (the inner cover on the door), and in doing so they broke something and are trying to avoid paying to repair it. I would suggest ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible