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10

The most likely cause is the a/c unit. What may have happened is that debris, pine needles,leaves etc may have plugged the drain allowing an excess amount of water to build up and then it relaesed. Run the a/c unit for awhile say 30 minutes. In a safe area like an empty parking lot make some abrubt turns at slow speeds. If you hear water sloshing under the ...


7

It all depends on your definition of high. In my car, the red line is at 7500 rpm, and that indicates that driving with the revs over this line for anything other than brief periods is expected to cause damage, either through overheating, increased wear, increased loading on bearings, lack of sufficient oil/fluid flow etc. When driving I have to keep my ...


5

First of all, is brake dust always going to be this much of an issue, or is it worse since I just got the car and it had been sitting at a dealer for months before. Yes, you're always going to have brake dust. A lot? It's hard to say. You'll always have more on the front wheels than the rears due to brake bias. Second of all, how long is it ...


2

Brake dust will always be a problem with your current pads.When it is due for a brake job check out several brands as some offer low dust versions.If you are really concerned change the pads now even if they are still good.The big issue with brake dust is it is an abrasive.Use something made to wash wheels.It will suspend the grit in a liquid so it can be ...


2

I finally got this figured out. The housing inside the actual tail-light assembly had become deformed, I guess due to heat, thus keeping the light-bulb housing from making proper contact with the tail-light assembly. A new tail-light assembly fixed the issue. Thanks, everyone, for your help with this issue.


2

Within a certain range, of course more RPMs mean more wear. Especially if your maintenance is based on time or miles. Consider a bearing that has a lifetime of 1,000,000 revolutions. If you drive at 5,000 RPM, that bearing is going to use up its lifetime twice as fast as if you were driving at 2,500 RPM. On the other hand, "lugging" an engine at too low an ...


2

You very likely have a bad thermostat. Here are some similar questions that may provide some insight: Where'd my heat go? Why would my heater sometimes blow cold air? Engine never warms up (actually: it cools down) at highway speeds In terms of your specific problem, I would check your engine temperature gauge: does the needle ever move up to its ...


1

I've had a similar problem before and it turned out to be the socket for the bulb was bad. I'd start with inspecting wiring that you can see, but proving wiring "good" is pretty much impossible (and replacing it is likely to be a major chore). It might just be cheaper/easier to try and replace the socket first and see what happens. Sorry I can't be more ...


1

The Stealth uses an hydraulic slave cylinder to control the clutch. If you look on the firewall of the engine compartment you should see a resevoir similar to the brake mastercylinder. The system has two main componenets the resevoir and the slave cylinder. A leaking slave cylinder is the more common failure item. You can try refilling the resevoir and ...


1

This sounds like a bad switch. Assuming the main cruise control system is responding but you aren't getting set, reset, coast, etc., then it's likely that one or more of the internal contacts has broken or come loose. Annoyingly, those control stalks are integrated units. Easy to replace but not cheap.


1

If you made sure to clear the codes and it came back, then you probably have high resistance or a broken wire. Most sensors on a car use voltage on sensor wire at 5V, and then ground is applied by what ever sensing mechanism and brings the voltage down... So if the sensor wire is broken or the return wire (aka ground) , the voltage can't be dropped and ...


1

Does the car have a big "master fuse" somewhere in the engine bay? If so, that is probably your culprit... There may also be a second fuse box in the engine bay as well as the main one in the cabin. If you have access to a multimeter, a decent battery should put out just over 12v when the car is switched off, however I doubt that a quick short like the one ...



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