Hot answers tagged

8

What you see could very well be burned coolant as well as oil. As the glycerin burns in the combustion process it can take on corrosive properties that degrade the electrodes. Typically with oil in the combustion chamber you don't see as sever of a an electrode degradation as illustrated in your photos. I think your head gasket change is looming and ...


7

No, you are best off with blank rotors(no slots, no holes) just like stock. Slotted rotors are more aggressive on the pads. Drilled rotors are plain dangerous unless they are a good quality(read expensive) that were cast with holes in place not drilled after the casting. generally, cheap drilled rotors are for looks only. They are also less efficient in ...


6

I checked a known good waveform (cannot copy here, copyrighted). Yours is shifted just a bit to the right. Around your frame 95 that cam sensor vertical line should exactly bisect the horizontal line on the crank signal. Most common failure for a small shift is bending of the locator roll pin on the cam pulley.


5

It looks like you can tell by the vin. It appears to be asking engine code - that's the eighth digit. See if it matches the R or T shown in the part description there, and that should give you your answer.


5

It sounds as though you already have the heads off. If this is right, check the bores for anything unusual. I'm assuming this is the case if you are looking for the HP you say ... Not going to get that stock with a truck block. That means at least a cam, but probably a set of heads as well. If it truly only has as many miles as you say, you should still ...


5

Auto Zone's online vehicle repair guides can be found here: http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideMain.jsp You'll have to create an account, enter your vehicle and drill down. Curiously it's not found directly under "Engine" but once there, if you look in the left pane you'll see a bullet for "Cylinder Head". A complete list of ...


5

It's not really a complicated job, but it needs a bit of care and attention. This is more of a general guide, as I don't know the details of the Ram engine... Tools Basic Socket set Clicking Torque wrench Workshop manual for your truck (mainly for the torque wrench settings) Assorted spanners, screwdrivers etc. Process Disconnect the battery. Begin ...


5

Sounds like a bad ground. I would install new ground wires. Get some heavy cable (like 2-6 gauge multi strand) and solder some lugs onto it. Wire the battery to body, then that same point on the body to the block. Make sure all spots are nice and clean. Be sure to give yourself some slack


4

While the vehicles are equipped with a distributor the innards of that distributor have changed quite a bit. The distributor no longer contains flyweights or any mechanical timing controls, instead it contains the camshaft position sensor. The way the system works is, readings are taken from the crankshaft position sensor by the PCM. The PCM then ...


4

Would there be a substantial enough of a horsepower boost to be noticeable? The most you could see from such a modification is 15hp. This would not be enough for the seat dyno to register, unless there are plenty of hemorrhoids to detect it. More then likely you'd see a measly 5-10hp, and then only at the higher RPM levels would this be apparent. You ...


3

If I were you, I'd just do it right and be done with it. Don't feel bad about the peeling paint as all of the Dodge/Chrysler products of the era did the same thing (GM had a phase of this as well ... I would bet Ford had its problems in this area to boot). The problem was (from my understanding) when manufacturers were required to go to water based paint to ...


3

This sounds like it could possibly be an Evaporative Emissions problem involving your fuel tank. The engineering side of fuel systems refer to the amount of air in a fuel tank as "Head Pressure". Since fluids are almost impossible to compress, as you gain more air (and use fuel) in the tank it's contents are more easily compressed. The vehicle's computer can ...


3

You probably need a new wiper module. Direct from OE: Wiper Module - The wiper pivot shafts are the only visible components of the wiper module. The remainder of the module is concealed within the cowl plenum area beneath the cowl plenum cover/grille panel. The wiper module includes the wiper module bracket, four rubber-isolated wiper module mounts, the ...


3

You should check belt tension and visually inspect the pulleys for rubber deposits. You can check pulleys by applying a load to the pulley and spinning it. You probably need to include which transfer case you have on the vehicle by looking at the stamped plate. How much vacuum is "little vacuum"? If you have a NVG231 there should be engine vacuum (roughly ...


3

I can't answer all of your questions but I can tell you there are no recalls on OEM parts. There is a single recall on the vehicle related to aftermarket brake parts from several manufacturers. This post has excellent guidance on what to check when procuring a new used vehicle. Most dealerships will allow you to take the car to a mechanic in order to get ...


3

According to this pdf, all pre-1998 Chrysler/Dodge vehicles should be using plain old power steering fluid. Those after 1998 should be using ATF-4 unless specified differently. NOTE: The Crossfire should use Pentosin CHF 11S.


3

Really the only thing you need to know is what you've figured out already - the headsets work with IR emmiters built into the entertainment system of the van. There appears to only be one "standard" and searching for "Dodge Caravan IR headset" will give you tons of choices. The only thing I would look at is to make sure the headsets are "dual channel" ...


2

My 2000 durango does this same thing. Took me a bit to figure it out. I stopped and filled up to find it works just fine. Just don't let the gas get so low now.


2

I'm not sure you have enough information here to go on. My best advice to you is, fix the wire and see if it fixes the problem. The wire needs to be fixed anyway, so fix it.


2

I have this same problem on a 1999 Dodge Ram 4x4. Didn't start doing it Until it had 50,000 miles on it. The 1999 has only one oxygen censor and throttle body. That said, itss not not a vary smart electronic system so I wouldn't think the system has a limp mode. I also remember years ago that a deep snow broke a plastic vacuum line under the trany that ...


2

The same thing happened to me: left turn, snow, slip, and hit the curb with the back end of the front tire. This caused the Lower Tie Rod to jump the threaded nuts and threw my alignment off. I had an alignment done and it was now 95% better. Bumping a front wheel this way can cause damage to your Inner Tie Rod, Outer Tie rod, Hub Bearing, CV Joint, and ...


2

Overdrive is misunderstood. The traditional definition is: a gear that drives the rear rotations to be lower than that of the crankshaft. That means you truck shouldn't go into 'overdrive' at 40mph. No car does this. At a higher speed, in order to conserve fuel, a car may go into overdrive. Knowing if your vehicle is actually going into overdrive, or ...


2

If the transmission is slipping now a rebuild will give you a slight gain in mpg. If you have the optional towing differential with a 3.92 ratio then changing to the standard 3.55 will also yield a small gain. This will hurt acceleration though, while increasing highway mileage. The biggest issue is "cost to benefit" ratio and the time to recoup those costs ...


2

Look at the manufacture date of your truck. If it is after June 2007, you can pretty much be assured you shouldn't have to worry about the TSB since it is dated 27 June 2007. This wouldn't be foolproof, but one would have to assume they wouldn't put the old problem into a new truck after that date, considering they knew about the issue prior to that date. ...


2

Before you go thinking the belt is out of time, when your mechanic told you about the wires, what he may have been suggesting is that you have the wires on the wrong plugs. This will create the imbalance you are talking about, yet most of the time will not show a trouble code (because they are all still firing, just not at the right time). Double check to ...


2

Paulster2 has covered the painting angle, so I would like to take a look at other alternatives. The only way to get the exact original look, with the same finish as on the other car panels is through a professional paint job. If doing a DIY job, this is just about impossible to get - so let's go wild and aim for something totally different. One option are ...


2

For your edification in case you want to try this. Here are the procedures for getting the vehicle to learn the new key. There are some disclaimers/actions you need to pay attention to, so read the entire procedure before you try to do this. If your key is a completely metal key, it will not have a chip inside of it. If it looks like the image below, it ...


2

Basically, the battery is supplying electricity to the car, but it's not getting to the starter motor. When you turn the key and there's not even a click, my first thought is a bad starter relay, but it could also be a loose wire, or a bad ignition switch. It should be pretty easy to check, have someone turn the key while you touch the relay. If there's ...


2

The leak was in a fuel line leading to the injector.


2

One possibility is the combination of a broken engine/transmission mount, and worn or loose shift linkages. Excessive movement of the engine/transaxle causes a downshift as if it came from the control. Do the engine mount test. Park in a safe spot with front/rear clearance, and raise the hood. Put the parking brake on hard, and stand on the brakes. Then rev ...



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