Hot answers tagged

13

The most likely cause is the a/c unit. What may have happened is that debris, pine needles,leaves etc may have plugged the drain allowing an excess amount of water to build up and then it relaesed. Run the a/c unit for awhile say 30 minutes. In a safe area like an empty parking lot make some abrubt turns at slow speeds. If you hear water sloshing under the ...


9

It all depends on your definition of high. In my car, the red line is at 7500 rpm, and that indicates that driving with the revs over this line for anything other than brief periods is expected to cause damage, either through overheating, increased wear, increased loading on bearings, lack of sufficient oil/fluid flow etc. When driving I have to keep my ...


9

If your speedometer is accurate, you can check that with your GPS or phone as well. The only real option is the cluster (The thing with all the gauges and odometer). You can send it off to have it repaired, or get a used one from a junk yard. If you ever sell the car you are legally bound in most (if not all) US states to tell the buyer of an odometer ...


8

Tell your shop to try rotating the tires by putting both rears on the front and the new tire on the back. Maybe the difference in tread depth is more significant than they think? If rotating the tires doesn't fix the problem my guess would be that under hard acceleration that tire is getting out of alignment and causing toe out. For that make sure they ...


7

With power steering complaints such as yours where the symptom is intermittent the diagnosis is mostly guesswork in a setting such as this. You can do a few things to get to the source though. A little about modern power steering Many vehicles have power steering assist controls such as a vehicle speed sensors and pressure switches/solenoids that stage the ...


6

If you are looking to improve your cars performance, then I suggest you try something different. Your gains from using a different viscosity oil will be laughable (if there will be any), especially compared to any proper performance-oriented change. Unless, of course, if what you can do with engine is limited by regulations and you are expending last ...


6

According to this website, the cat can surely be plugged by coolant entering the catalytic converter. Here are the reasons given on the website: Engine Tune-Up Required. A number of problems could occur to the catalytic converter as the result of an engine that is out of tune. Any time an engine is operating outside proper specifications, ...


6

The ball bearings are involved, but the noise isn't because they are dropping. What happens is when the boot splits, the grease starts oozing out (less lubricant) and dirt gets in causing wear. One of the jobs of grease is to take up excess slack in the joint (not that there is much in the first place when it's not worn out). This will quiet any noises out ...


5

You can't prevent the turbo from spooling up without physically removing it from the car. Depending on how the boost is controlled (ie, if there is a manual or electronic boost controller involved, too, or if it's just standard boost control by the ECU) you might be able to turn down the maximum boost to the pressure controlled by the spring in the wastegate ...


5

First of all, is brake dust always going to be this much of an issue, or is it worse since I just got the car and it had been sitting at a dealer for months before. Yes, you're always going to have brake dust. A lot? It's hard to say. You'll always have more on the front wheels than the rears due to brake bias. Second of all, how long is it ...


5

From your description it is a bit unclear what the problem with the drain plug bolt is. I'm assuming that the hex head on the bolt has become rounded, and as a result your wrenches and sockets are slipping on the bolt head, preventing you from removing the drain plug. If this is the case, you can try welding another nut or bolt onto the rounded drain plug, ...


5

As stated, this is most likely a slipping serpentine belt, but there could be other reasons besides moisture on the belt causing this problem. This is especially true if this is happening every day. The problem can also be caused from a weak tensioner pulley (the part which keeps the belt tight). I know this is unlikely, considering it's a new vehicle, but ...


5

It will have to be fixed before you drive it very far. If the battery light is on the alternator is not charging, your not going to make it very far before the battery goes dead. Your local parts store will be able to test the alternator on the car, most if not all will do it for free. Based on the battery light I am confident it's the alternator, but ...


5

Most likely problem is a stuck thermostat and a blown headgasket.


5

It sounds as though you already have the heads off. If this is right, check the bores for anything unusual. I'm assuming this is the case if you are looking for the HP you say ... Not going to get that stock with a truck block. That means at least a cam, but probably a set of heads as well. If it truly only has as many miles as you say, you should still ...


4

Within a certain range, of course more RPMs mean more wear. Especially if your maintenance is based on time or miles. Consider a bearing that has a lifetime of 1,000,000 revolutions. If you drive at 5,000 RPM, that bearing is going to use up its lifetime twice as fast as if you were driving at 2,500 RPM. On the other hand, "lugging" an engine at too low an ...


4

I've diagnosed this condition many times with a vehicle-specific scan tool, and I don't think it can be done without this or an oscilloscope. O2 sensors work in the range of less than 1 volt (.2v to .7v) In particular, the rear O2 sensor should stay at a fairly constant .5v if the cat is working right. Wild swings to the extremes indicate the cat isn't ...


4

While your speedometer sounds particularly inaccurate, the simple fact is that almost all car manufacturers design their speedometers to be inaccurate because of speed legislation in many countries: From thecarexpert.co.uk, EU law says that A speedo must never show less than the actual speed, and must never show more than 110% of actual speed + 6.25mph. ...


4

I found a copy of the owner's manual here. Pages 284-285 have a diagram of the instrument cluster, where this light appears as #17. Page 294 says that this is the Vehicle Security Light and explains: This light will flash at a fast rate for approximately 15 seconds, when the vehicle security alarm is arming, and then will flash slowly until the ...


4

It looks like you can tell by the vin. It appears to be asking engine code - that's the eighth digit. See if it matches the R or T shown in the part description there, and that should give you your answer.


4

While the vehicles are equipped with a distributor the innards of that distributor have changed quite a bit. The distributor no longer contains flyweights or any mechanical timing controls, instead it contains the camshaft position sensor. The way the system works is, readings are taken from the crankshaft position sensor by the PCM. The PCM then ...


4

Would there be a substantial enough of a horsepower boost to be noticeable? The most you could see from such a modification is 15hp. This would not be enough for the seat dyno to register, unless there are plenty of hemorrhoids to detect it. More then likely you'd see a measly 5-10hp, and then only at the higher RPM levels would this be apparent. You ...


4

Auto Zone's online vehicle repair guides can be found here: http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideMain.jsp You'll have to create an account, enter your vehicle and drill down. Curiously it's not found directly under "Engine" but once there, if you look in the left pane you'll see a bullet for "Cylinder Head". A complete list of ...


4

It's not really a complicated job, but it needs a bit of care and attention. This is more of a general guide, as I don't know the details of the Ram engine... Tools Basic Socket set Clicking Torque wrench Workshop manual for your truck (mainly for the torque wrench settings) Assorted spanners, screwdrivers etc. Process Disconnect the battery. Begin ...


3

I finally got this figured out. The housing inside the actual tail-light assembly had become deformed, I guess due to heat, thus keeping the light-bulb housing from making proper contact with the tail-light assembly. A new tail-light assembly fixed the issue. Thanks, everyone, for your help with this issue. UPDATE: Recently, the same thing happened on ...


3

26 - Battery Group size (determines the dimensions of the battery: http://www.rtpnet.org/teaa/bcigroup.html) R - You are correct, this means the terminals are reversed. 5N - Not sure what this part means!


3

The only people I can think of that would carry a crate motor are the dealers, or an authorized Mopar distributor. Not sure if it can be had anywhere else, and still be affordable.


3

This is solvable at the ECU: one of the profiles that I could install using my AccessPort is called "valet mode." The performance is severely limited in that it prevents boost and significant speed. Caveat: going this route would cost you hundreds of dollars. Admittedly, I really like the performance aspect of the AccessPort and that's why I purchased it. ...


3

Maybe when the tank is low you are effecting the vacuum on the engine. Many cars rely on the vacuum to tell the transmission when to shift. Anyone have thoughts on this idea?


3

This sounds like it could possibly be an Evaporative Emissions problem involving your fuel tank. The engineering side of fuel systems refer to the amount of air in a fuel tank as "Head Pressure". Since fluids are almost impossible to compress, as you gain more air (and use fuel) in the tank it's contents are more easily compressed. The vehicle's computer can ...



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