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10

The most likely cause is the a/c unit. What may have happened is that debris, pine needles,leaves etc may have plugged the drain allowing an excess amount of water to build up and then it relaesed. Run the a/c unit for awhile say 30 minutes. In a safe area like an empty parking lot make some abrubt turns at slow speeds. If you hear water sloshing under the ...


7

It all depends on your definition of high. In my car, the red line is at 7500 rpm, and that indicates that driving with the revs over this line for anything other than brief periods is expected to cause damage, either through overheating, increased wear, increased loading on bearings, lack of sufficient oil/fluid flow etc. When driving I have to keep my ...


6

If you are looking to improve your cars performance, then I suggest you try something different. Your gains from using a different viscosity oil will be laughable (if there will be any), especially compared to any proper performance-oriented change. Unless, of course, if what you can do with engine is limited by regulations and you are expending last ...


5

First of all, is brake dust always going to be this much of an issue, or is it worse since I just got the car and it had been sitting at a dealer for months before. Yes, you're always going to have brake dust. A lot? It's hard to say. You'll always have more on the front wheels than the rears due to brake bias. Second of all, how long is it ...


5

Tell your shop to try rotating the tires by putting both rears on the front and the new tire on the back. Maybe the difference in tread depth is more significant than they think? If rotating the tires doesn't fix the problem my guess would be that under hard acceleration that tire is getting out of alignment and causing toe out. For that make sure they ...


5

If your speedometer is accurate, you can check that with your GPS or phone as well. The only real option is the cluster (The thing with all the gauges and odometer). You can send it off to have it repaired, or get a used one from a junk yard. If you ever sell the car you are legally bound in most (if not all) US states to tell the buyer of an odometer ...


5

It will have to be fixed before you drive it very far. If the battery light is on the alternator is not charging, your not going to make it very far before the battery goes dead. Your local parts store will be able to test the alternator on the car, most if not all will do it for free. Based on the battery light I am confident it's the alternator, but ...


5

Most likely problem is a stuck thermostat and a blown headgasket.


4

You can't prevent the turbo from spooling up without physically removing it from the car. Depending on how the boost is controlled (ie, if there is a manual or electronic boost controller involved, too, or if it's just standard boost control by the ECU) you might be able to turn down the maximum boost to the pressure controlled by the spring in the wastegate ...


4

With power steering complaints such as yours where the symptom is intermittent the diagnosis is mostly guesswork in a setting such as this. You can do a few things to get to the source though. A little about modern power steering Many vehicles have power steering assist controls such as a vehicle speed sensors and pressure switches/solenoids that stage the ...


4

I've diagnosed this condition many times with a vehicle-specific scan tool, and I don't think it can be done without this or an oscilloscope. O2 sensors work in the range of less than 1 volt (.2v to .7v) In particular, the rear O2 sensor should stay at a fairly constant .5v if the cat is working right. Wild swings to the extremes indicate the cat isn't ...


4

While your speedometer sounds particularly inaccurate, the simple fact is that almost all car manufacturers design their speedometers to be inaccurate because of speed legislation in many countries: From thecarexpert.co.uk, EU law says that A speedo must never show less than the actual speed, and must never show more than 110% of actual speed + 6.25mph. ...


4

From your description it is a bit unclear what the problem with the drain plug bolt is. I'm assuming that the hex head on the bolt has become rounded, and as a result your wrenches and sockets are slipping on the bolt head, preventing you from removing the drain plug. If this is the case, you can try welding another nut or bolt onto the rounded drain plug, ...


4

As stated, this is most likely a slipping serpentine belt, but there could be other reasons besides moisture on the belt causing this problem. This is especially true if this is happening every day. The problem can also be caused from a weak tensioner pulley (the part which keeps the belt tight). I know this is unlikely, considering it's a new vehicle, but ...


4

I found a copy of the owner's manual here. Pages 284-285 have a diagram of the instrument cluster, where this light appears as #17. Page 294 says that this is the Vehicle Security Light and explains: This light will flash at a fast rate for approximately 15 seconds, when the vehicle security alarm is arming, and then will flash slowly until the ...


3

Within a certain range, of course more RPMs mean more wear. Especially if your maintenance is based on time or miles. Consider a bearing that has a lifetime of 1,000,000 revolutions. If you drive at 5,000 RPM, that bearing is going to use up its lifetime twice as fast as if you were driving at 2,500 RPM. On the other hand, "lugging" an engine at too low an ...


3

I finally got this figured out. The housing inside the actual tail-light assembly had become deformed, I guess due to heat, thus keeping the light-bulb housing from making proper contact with the tail-light assembly. A new tail-light assembly fixed the issue. Thanks, everyone, for your help with this issue. UPDATE: Recently, the same thing happened on ...


3

26 - Battery Group size (determines the dimensions of the battery: http://www.rtpnet.org/teaa/bcigroup.html) R - You are correct, this means the terminals are reversed. 5N - Not sure what this part means!


3

The only people I can think of that would carry a crate motor are the dealers, or an authorized Mopar distributor. Not sure if it can be had anywhere else, and still be affordable.


3

I've had a similar problem before and it turned out to be the socket for the bulb was bad. I'd start with inspecting wiring that you can see, but proving wiring "good" is pretty much impossible (and replacing it is likely to be a major chore). It might just be cheaper/easier to try and replace the socket first and see what happens. Sorry I can't be more ...


3

There are two things I can think of for you: First - Are you sure you changed the plug/wire for the #4 cylinder? I know this sounds elementary, but you never know. When you pulled the plug out, did it look wet, or tan as it should? If it was wet, you've changed the right plug. If not, you probably want the middle cylinder (assuming a v6 engine) on the other ...


3

There are two different types of oil life indicators, as discussed on this page. First, there is the Algorithm-based one: Algorithm-based oil indicators measure lots of factors and then plug the resulting numbers into a formula. Based on the answer to this complex, ongoing math problem, the indicator display will tell you whether the oil is OK, is close ...


2

Try putting the car in neutral when you can hear the noise. If it goes away, it might be the transmission or some part of the drive train. Push and pull on the top of the front right tire pretty hard and see if you can feel any looseness. If so, it's probably the wheel bearing / hub. But sometimes the wheel bearings go out and still feel tight.


2

Most weird noises from the wheel area turn out to be wheel bearings. I'd also check to make sure that the disc brake dust shield didn't get bent, as it can make a similar sound when rubbing against the disc.


2

This is solvable at the ECU: one of the profiles that I could install using my AccessPort is called "valet mode." The performance is severely limited in that it prevents boost and significant speed. Caveat: going this route would cost you hundreds of dollars. Admittedly, I really like the performance aspect of the AccessPort and that's why I purchased it. ...


2

Any boost controller (manual or electronic) would allow you to turn down the boost. I have a DiabloSport unit and I can go way down almost to the point where the car is atmospheric (max. boost under 3 psi). When ready to restore it, flash back the original tune map.


2

I know some Honda guys that run 0W-20, but that is much too thin for the 2.4L SRT motor. People in the neon community run 5w-30 or 10w-30 (pretty much the standard for turbo 4bangers nowadays). There is risk of cars that have been running non synthetic leaking through seals after switching to synthetic oils with higher detergent content. However, I have ...


2

Brake dust will always be a problem with your current pads.When it is due for a brake job check out several brands as some offer low dust versions.If you are really concerned change the pads now even if they are still good.The big issue with brake dust is it is an abrasive.Use something made to wash wheels.It will suspend the grit in a liquid so it can be ...


2

Have you checked your codes? Could that be going to a crank sensor? If the car cannot detect the crank sensor, it will likely not start in the manner you describe.


2

I would still check all your lighting fuses, sometimes your brake lights/taillights will be on separate fuses.



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