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10

The most likely cause is the a/c unit. What may have happened is that debris, pine needles,leaves etc may have plugged the drain allowing an excess amount of water to build up and then it relaesed. Run the a/c unit for awhile say 30 minutes. In a safe area like an empty parking lot make some abrubt turns at slow speeds. If you hear water sloshing under the ...


7

It all depends on your definition of high. In my car, the red line is at 7500 rpm, and that indicates that driving with the revs over this line for anything other than brief periods is expected to cause damage, either through overheating, increased wear, increased loading on bearings, lack of sufficient oil/fluid flow etc. When driving I have to keep my ...


6

If you are looking to improve your cars performance, then I suggest you try something different. Your gains from using a different viscosity oil will be laughable (if there will be any), especially compared to any proper performance-oriented change. Unless, of course, if what you can do with engine is limited by regulations and you are expending last ...


5

If your speedometer is accurate, you can check that with your GPS or phone as well. The only real option is the cluster (The thing with all the gauges and odometer). You can send it off to have it repaired, or get a used one from a junk yard. If you ever sell the car you are legally bound in most (if not all) US states to tell the buyer of an odometer ...


5

Tell your shop to try rotating the tires by putting both rears on the front and the new tire on the back. Maybe the difference in tread depth is more significant than they think? If rotating the tires doesn't fix the problem my guess would be that under hard acceleration that tire is getting out of alignment and causing toe out. For that make sure they ...


5

First of all, is brake dust always going to be this much of an issue, or is it worse since I just got the car and it had been sitting at a dealer for months before. Yes, you're always going to have brake dust. A lot? It's hard to say. You'll always have more on the front wheels than the rears due to brake bias. Second of all, how long is it ...


5

It will have to be fixed before you drive it very far. If the battery light is on the alternator is not charging, your not going to make it very far before the battery goes dead. Your local parts store will be able to test the alternator on the car, most if not all will do it for free. Based on the battery light I am confident it's the alternator, but ...


4

With power steering complaints such as yours where the symptom is intermittent the diagnosis is mostly guesswork in a setting such as this. You can do a few things to get to the source though. A little about modern power steering Many vehicles have power steering assist controls such as a vehicle speed sensors and pressure switches/solenoids that stage the ...


4

I've diagnosed this condition many times with a vehicle-specific scan tool, and I don't think it can be done without this or an oscilloscope. O2 sensors work in the range of less than 1 volt (.2v to .7v) In particular, the rear O2 sensor should stay at a fairly constant .5v if the cat is working right. Wild swings to the extremes indicate the cat isn't ...


4

You can't prevent the turbo from spooling up without physically removing it from the car. Depending on how the boost is controlled (ie, if there is a manual or electronic boost controller involved, too, or if it's just standard boost control by the ECU) you might be able to turn down the maximum boost to the pressure controlled by the spring in the wastegate ...


4

While your speedometer sounds particularly inaccurate, the simple fact is that almost all car manufacturers design their speedometers to be inaccurate because of speed legislation in many countries: From thecarexpert.co.uk, EU law says that A speedo must never show less than the actual speed, and must never show more than 110% of actual speed + 6.25mph. ...


4

From your description it is a bit unclear what the problem with the drain plug bolt is. I'm assuming that the hex head on the bolt has become rounded, and as a result your wrenches and sockets are slipping on the bolt head, preventing you from removing the drain plug. If this is the case, you can try welding another nut or bolt onto the rounded drain plug, ...


4

As stated, this is most likely a slipping serpentine belt, but there could be other reasons besides moisture on the belt causing this problem. This is especially true if this is happening every day. The problem can also be caused from a weak tensioner pulley (the part which keeps the belt tight). I know this is unlikely, considering it's a new vehicle, but ...


3

I've had a similar problem before and it turned out to be the socket for the bulb was bad. I'd start with inspecting wiring that you can see, but proving wiring "good" is pretty much impossible (and replacing it is likely to be a major chore). It might just be cheaper/easier to try and replace the socket first and see what happens. Sorry I can't be more ...


3

Within a certain range, of course more RPMs mean more wear. Especially if your maintenance is based on time or miles. Consider a bearing that has a lifetime of 1,000,000 revolutions. If you drive at 5,000 RPM, that bearing is going to use up its lifetime twice as fast as if you were driving at 2,500 RPM. On the other hand, "lugging" an engine at too low an ...


3

I finally got this figured out. The housing inside the actual tail-light assembly had become deformed, I guess due to heat, thus keeping the light-bulb housing from making proper contact with the tail-light assembly. A new tail-light assembly fixed the issue. Thanks, everyone, for your help with this issue.


3

There are two things I can think of for you: First - Are you sure you changed the plug/wire for the #4 cylinder? I know this sounds elementary, but you never know. When you pulled the plug out, did it look wet, or tan as it should? If it was wet, you've changed the right plug. If not, you probably want the middle cylinder (assuming a v6 engine) on the other ...


2

I know some Honda guys that run 0W-20, but that is much too thin for the 2.4L SRT motor. People in the neon community run 5w-30 or 10w-30 (pretty much the standard for turbo 4bangers nowadays). There is risk of cars that have been running non synthetic leaking through seals after switching to synthetic oils with higher detergent content. However, I have ...


2

Brake dust will always be a problem with your current pads.When it is due for a brake job check out several brands as some offer low dust versions.If you are really concerned change the pads now even if they are still good.The big issue with brake dust is it is an abrasive.Use something made to wash wheels.It will suspend the grit in a liquid so it can be ...


2

Try putting the car in neutral when you can hear the noise. If it goes away, it might be the transmission or some part of the drive train. Push and pull on the top of the front right tire pretty hard and see if you can feel any looseness. If so, it's probably the wheel bearing / hub. But sometimes the wheel bearings go out and still feel tight.


2

This is solvable at the ECU: one of the profiles that I could install using my AccessPort is called "valet mode." The performance is severely limited in that it prevents boost and significant speed. Caveat: going this route would cost you hundreds of dollars. Admittedly, I really like the performance aspect of the AccessPort and that's why I purchased it. ...


2

I suspect your alternator or your battery or both are failing. Since your car needs both fuel and spark to keep the engine running it is possible that, unless you're revving up, the fuel pump and all the other electrical components are not getting enough juice to make the grade. Test the battery and alternator. This post describes the process in great ...


2

I'll go with a combination of the standard overstating of mileage on the car (well put by Rory) and also GPS inaccuracy... I've been doing Road Rally for a long time and a big part of that is precision mileage measurement. As an instrument rated pilot, I also have a strong interest in GPS navigation. One of the things I learned when experimenting with ...


2

You very likely have a bad thermostat. Here are some similar questions that may provide some insight: Where'd my heat go? Why would my heater sometimes blow cold air? Engine never warms up (actually: it cools down) at highway speeds In terms of your specific problem, I would check your engine temperature gauge: does the needle ever move up to its ...


1

This is a typical case of the serpentine belt slipping. In the very cold the efficiency of the battery drops off. When you start your vehicle the alternator has to deliver the load on the system. The extra load caused by the cold battery causes the slip. It would be made worse by a moist serpentine belt. Check with your dealer if a updated belt is ...


1

If you made sure to clear the codes and it came back, then you probably have high resistance or a broken wire. Most sensors on a car use voltage on sensor wire at 5V, and then ground is applied by what ever sensing mechanism and brings the voltage down... So if the sensor wire is broken or the return wire (aka ground) , the voltage can't be dropped and ...


1

Does the car have a big "master fuse" somewhere in the engine bay? If so, that is probably your culprit... There may also be a second fuse box in the engine bay as well as the main one in the cabin. If you have access to a multimeter, a decent battery should put out just over 12v when the car is switched off, however I doubt that a quick short like the one ...


1

The Stealth uses an hydraulic slave cylinder to control the clutch. If you look on the firewall of the engine compartment you should see a resevoir similar to the brake mastercylinder. The system has two main componenets the resevoir and the slave cylinder. A leaking slave cylinder is the more common failure item. You can try refilling the resevoir and ...


1

This sounds like a bad switch. Assuming the main cruise control system is responding but you aren't getting set, reset, coast, etc., then it's likely that one or more of the internal contacts has broken or come loose. Annoyingly, those control stalks are integrated units. Easy to replace but not cheap.


1

The absolute most stress on an engine occurs at high RPMs. The forces acting upon the rotating assembly are exponentially increased with RPM. That also increases the magnification of any oiling inconsistencies (as small as they may be nowadays), which can be deadly to engines. Increasing power (cylinder pressure) has a much smaller impact on engine stress, ...



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