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12

tl dr: Corrosion (once cleaned) is not a huge issue. It is just typical corrosion on the battery terminal. See this image: (NOTE: This is a 6V battery, but the same principles apply.) The blueish color you see is hydrated copper sulfate. When acid vapors escape from the battery, it can cause a reaction with any copper which may be in the terminal. The ...


5

For rust removal... my personal favorite technique involves a lot of distilled white vinegar and a green "scrunge" (like a 3M scrubbing pad) or a pad of steel wool. By "a lot" of vinegar, I mean never allow the surface to get dry - always keep it wet with vinegar or it'll "flash rust" while you work. This generally involves working only a fairly small area ...


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So is there any point of spending money to buy special cleaner or using coke or baking soda when it should be possible just to clean it with plain water? If you have to clean your battery terminals right now, you have to use the tools available to you. You're going to want to be mindful of these facts: The corrosion deposits can be obnoxious to ...


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Background Yes it's harmful. It is lead sulphate. It is toxic to ingest and breath. It is especially toxic to children, as you would imagine regular lead to be. It's not miscible in water but baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) neutralizes that acidic portion of the compound. The remnant compound of that reaction would be H2O and some CO. Action Use ...


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Here's some quick art work to help you figure things out: The red circled area is where the negative terminal is at. Specifically the green arrow is pointing at it. You should be able to loosen the nut at the red arrow to gain access to the post to get the clamp off of it. As for what you can touch and what you cannot, this really isn't a problem, as ...


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The potential loss of air pressure is only going to happen if you have corrosion in the area where the tyre bead seats against the wheel, not if you have surface corrosion on the outside. If the corrosion on the outside is causing air loss, the wheel is toast, but the corrosion you have on your wheel doesn't look like it's anywhere near this bad. That said, ...


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It's always good to oil the underneath regardless if there is salt on the roads or not. You will preserve the metal and increase the life of your vehicle. Once rust starts, it spreads like cancer. That being said, I would wash the underside and then get it undercoated. They should be washing the vehicle before they spray.


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The part image in the link shows three wires: green, white and black. Combining the image with this blogpost, which explains how to hardwire the 240 taillights, the green/blue is a signal wire for the turn indicator, black is ground. White is purportedly not used: Options at your disposal Source the connector pair and solder/crimp them in place ...


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This is anhydrous sulfuric acid that has leaked from around the terminal posts. It will rather quickly corrode the battery terminal connectors. Rinse it off with water first, to get most of it off, flush with lots of water. Then put a mixture of baking soda and water in the areas affected, then rinse that off. To keep it from returning treat the terminals ...


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I would have thought it'd be fine to run to a nearby town to clean it - although if everyone is doing so, there might be a dedicated cleaning area set-up anyway? (assuming you're at an official meet) The reaction of salt and water will basically give you sea water - which is slightly alkaline. The problem is that the salt increases the conductivity of the ...



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