Hot answers tagged

6

Assuming that you have no faults with your transmission, it doesn't matter - an automatic transmission will automatically switch down gear as and when it needs to. All the '2' gear does is not let you go over 2nd gear - which if you were heading downhill could make your engine over-rev...generally not recommended. So D should be just fine.


6

You stated that "Only pads have been replaced in the brake components." If the rotors were not turned (machined) or replaced at the same time, this could be a problem. The surface of the rotor needs to be fresh, or the brakes will not work up to expectations. Also, consideration must be given to the proper "bedding" of the brakes. If they were not bedded ...


6

Can you tell which wheel(s) the noise is coming from? If you can, jack the car up and support it on stands, then remove the wheel(s) in question, and visually inspect the pads and discs, including the back of the disc between it and the stone-shield. It might be as simple as a stone stuck in the brakes, or you might find that one of the calipers has been ...


5

I recommend looking for a replacement side panel. Otherwise the standard panel beating approach is to try and hammer out the worst of the dents first. Car bog/filler/bondo is a last step to fill minor imperfections. This is harder than it sounds. Panels that have been creased or stretched seldom pop back to thier original position. Judging by your photo the ...


5

Get rid of the extra fans. If you're having to run fans constantly to keep the engine at the right temperature in the city, then all you're doing is masking another issue. You probably have several other issues. The engine temperature and the transmission going being able to shift into overdrive should be independent. It seems like you are conflating two ...


4

Yes, the normal route is to add sound deadening material inside the doors and/or on the floor of the car. A corolla won't have much stock insulation so you should be able to make some good progress in reducing it. This is a common project for people who are installing nice audio systems, so you should be able to find some nice walk-throughs on audio sites. ...


4

Checking the Key Off amperage draw is the standard test for this symptom. An ammeter that is very accurate in the Milliamp range is needed. Low quality meters are readily available and can quickly lead one to a false conclusion. The test: Remove ignition key, wrap in aluminum foil if Smart Key, Wait at least five minutes, newer smarter cars will need ...


3

Replace the thermostat for sure, and while you're at it, replace the straight water with 50/50 antifreeze/coolant mix. Use the aftermarket fans ONLY during stop & go traffic in the city; on the open road they serve no purpose at all (ordinary wind from highway speed cools the radiator sufficiently in almost all cases). There's no need to remove the fans, ...


3

If oil drips on a pulley or a belt then the rotation of those objects could sling the oil everywhere, even as high as the bottom of the hood. Most likely an oil leak would have to be above these components and a good guess would be through something like a failed valve cover gasket. Another possibility is that it is leaking near the front of the car ...


3

I'm looking at the 2009 Corolla: Scheduled Maintenance Guide that you can find on the nicely organized Toyota site. The closest thing to a fuel induction service is an inspection of "Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses" every 30K miles: Visually inspect for corrosion, damage, cracks, and loose or leaking ...


3

The manufacturers specifications are the ultimate authority. It does seem like you can go 10,000 miles between changes with synthetic oil. As long as the Castrol oil you've got is up to the same standard as Toyoto Synthetic, you're probably good for 10,000 miles. As to whether you need synthetic, if Toyota says you should or must use synthetic, you need ...


3

I was able to see the grounding points by crawling under the dash. The grounds looked visually good, the screws are tight. So, I tried replacing the 12V power outlet with a new aftermarket outlet. The issue is gone. Strange that the one bad outlet actually caused both outlets to blow fuses when power was drawn.


3

If you're carrying a high load, L is best. The gears work as follows: D = use whichever gear the computer decides/ Useful for everyday driving. 2 = use first or second, depending on speed. Useful when carrying high loads at low speeds. L = stay in the lowest gear. Best for carrying high loads up steep inclines.


3

What you're referring to as a "coolant tank" is your radiator overflow tank. While it does have to have some coolant in it, putting coolant/water in it doesn't do anything to cool your engine really. You need to twist the radiator cap off (make sure you wait for it to cool off) and pour coolant or maybe for the time being while testing, just tap water. ...


3

The short answer is you can't. A new key needs to be purchased and programmed at the dealer. There is no simple way around this.


3

Disconnecting the Battery One thing they could try is disconnecting the battery, starting the ignition to remove any current from within the system, reconnecting the battery and testing for the issue again to see if that has resolved the issue. Resetting the Immobiliser Otherwise you'll want to tell your friend to look at the cars user manual in order to ...


3

The EPA (US - Environmental Protection Agency) lists the mileage for this car at 27 MPG City, and 37 MPG highway. That's roughly 11.47 Km/l city and 15.73 Km/l highway. Granted, these ratings are under absolutely perfect conditions so they are a fantasy when it comes to real world combined mileage. So let's call it a combined of roughly 26 MPG which is 11.05 ...


3

It certainly looks cracked. You could try spraying some EGR cleaner at the crack while the engine is idling. If the EGR cleaner gets sucked in through the cracked pipe, the revs of the engine will change, which will confirm you have an air leak.


3

I found a Toyota Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) #EG009-03 which talks about this very problem with the VVTi engines. The bulletin gives the following steps to diagnosing/fixing the issue: Inspect the condition of the valve cover oil baffle as per TSB EG007–02. If camshaft or camshaft position sensor damage resulting from a bent baffle is ...


2

I finally took it in to a Toyota dealership. They said it was the overflow control valve (OCV); it's inside the gas tank, and requires replacing the entire gas tank, about $1000.


2

This is probably something you should take the car to a shop for. It sounds like a problem with the evaporative emissions system. Your tank is a completely sealed system and when you are pumping gas it needs a way to vent the gas fumes from then tank because the gas flowing in pushes the fumes out. There are vent lines and solenoids that run to a charcoal ...


2

Check to see if your door lock sequence mode got changed. change-door-lock-sequence


2

I'm hoping you may have missed a zero in the recommended service interval in your question. Modern cars don't even recommend oil changes more frequently than 5,000 miles, so an induction service every 3,000 miles is just crazy. Some dealers recommend induction service every 30,000 miles, but even then, I feel this is just a money-maker for them, and I ...


2

I hate to answer my own question but did eventually figure it out. Here are the more complete steps to swap the belt: Prerequisite: locate a belt diagram or draw your own before starting. Remove the plastic engine cover using 10mm ratchet - this will allow easier access to the tensioner / belt on the left side of the engine. Find the bolt head that is ...


2

I've done a quick search and found this image for a 1991 Corolla, manual, sedan, for the canadian market. You have 2 bolts to remove, the one on the top of the pillar and the one that attach both end of the seat belt. They may be hidden Under some plastics panel. It should be an easy task but make sure to tighten the bolt back!!


2

"When using cruise control and pulling the lever for acceleration RPM goes all the way up giving a sudden push to reach the desired speed." That's an important characteristic. That means one of two things: Either (a) your accelerator cable is running into an obstruction that prevents it from opening the throttle further or else (b) (if that car happens to ...


2

The two big categories for cranks but failure to start are 1) no fuel 2) no spark Things to check for no fuel: a) out of gas, b)bad fuel pump, c) clogged fuel filter Things to check for no spark: a) see if you have any spark...lots of websites and videos about this b) bad pickup sensor in ignition system c) bad timing Without personally looking at ...


2

In order to fit a different size or type of wheel to a car, four things need to be compatible: Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) - this is the number and distance between the nuts/studs, e.g. 4x100 (4 studs, 100mm diameter). This needs to be the same for both old and new wheels. Centre bore diameter - the size of the hole in the middle of the wheel. If it's too ...


2

These days you do not bother with replacing the lens cover because it's a sealed unit. Just buy a whole new assembly from your favorite web parts supplier (eg. Amazon, Rockauto, eBay), local auto parts, or a Toyota dealer ($$$). Look for "Parking/Turn Signal Lamp Assembly" or similar for the make and year of your car. The genuine Toyota part will be ...


2

It sounds like a lubrication issue between the release bearing sleeve and the input shaft "snout". The sleeve that the release bearing is attached to is a metal to metal slip fit. I'm other words there is a smooth shaft that the release bearing assembly slides on. There is only a small amount of space between the two, just enough to allow for some grease for ...



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