Hot answers tagged cooling-system
17
If the thermostat is operating properly the radiator will only come into play when the thermostat opens, when the engine is at normal operating temperature (around 190 degrees, give or take). Adding a gigantic radiator won't make a bit of difference because if the engine gets too cold, the thermostat will close, causing the engine to heat up again.
In the ...
10
I would like to drive the car to the
nearest qualified service, but there
is a fair distance to it (about 8km)
as I'm living in a remote location. Is
it safe to drive it that distance if I
refill the entire coolant tank?
I would say yes, you can drive the car. Load the car with much more water than you think necessary: I find that two liter ...
9
It sounds like the engine thermostat has failed in an open state. The thermostat regulates the flow of coolant between the radiator and the engine. When the engine needs more heat, it closes and cuts-off flow through the radiator. When the engine needs less heat, it opens and allows flow to the radiator. With the thermostat stuck open, the flow through ...
6
The thinner radiator might make it easier for the cold air to flow through the engine compartment.
(The radiator itself wont cool an already cool engine at all if the thermostat is intact.)
In cold environments it is often necessary to use a grille cover to limit cold air flow to the engine.
Grille covers are especially necessary with small diesel engines ...
5
First thing is to initially determine if you're burning it or leaking it. Assuming your car isn't spewing a plume of white smoke when you're driving - you will have to do some additional diagnosis to determine the method of consumption.
First check the oil and coolant - if either contain a milky substance you have a cracked something or a blown HG. ...
5
Your coolant shouldn't be boiling at 100C/212F if you have a proper mixture of water and anti-freeze (typically 50/50 ratio is recommended).
Water's boiling point is 100C/212F. Even though it is called anti-freeze, it also raises the boiling of the water.
You can buy a coolant mixture tester for a few dollars at a local auto parts store, you suck some of ...
5
It could be your thermostat - if it is not reading temperatures properly it may not trigger your fan until temperatures get really high.
Being stationary with the engine running is usually the time when this can happen, as there is no cooling airflow until the fan comes on.
Run the engine with the bonnet (hood for US-ians) and see when the fan starts - is ...
5
First thing I'd try to figure out is how quickly it leaks - run it, stick your head underneath it as check if there is any visible leaking. If there is, chances are that it's not going to make it for 30 miles. I'd also check for any evidence of oil and water mixing. If there is, don't drive it.
If it's not leaking that badly I'd be tempted to top it up with ...
4
I agree with Timo - if it is a big enough leak that you can see it clearly, then getting the car transported is much safer.
In general, using water as coolant is OK for a short time or as a "get you home" alternative, but it does not have the anti-freeze and corrosion inhibiting properties of a proper coolant mix, so should not be left in the engine for ...
4
You can see the corrosion on the pipe around the clip - even if Radweld or similar is able to temporarily stop the leak, I doubt that it'll last very long. At the rate that it's leaking, there is bound to be a bunch of fairly sizeable holes corroded into the pipe. For that reason alone I would change out the pipe as soon as I could. If that breaks (worst ...
4
Without water and without antifreeze or just without antifreeze? I'll assume that you mean without either, but you should clarify the difference in the future.
This is really simple though. The engine will overheat, quickly, and the seals and gaskets will give out, letting fluids leak in and out of places they should or shouldn't be. Eventually, parts of ...
3
Don't be discouraged by a new part not working. My family runs a shop, and we get defective parts all the time.
There is a table located here that shows diagnostic steps you can take. It's for a 1999 model, but 1999-2001 are virtually the same (I own a 2001 G/T model).
3
Without a wind tunnel the only way to tell is by monitoring the temperature gauge. Air flow/cooling capacity can get complex as there are many variables. Thing to consider are engine size, radiator capacity/effiency, fan size and direction of airflow all of which are influenced by each other and air flow over and around the vehicle at different speeds. If ...
3
My first suggestion would be to give the system a good flush, as that can cure no end of maladies. Drain the system fully (check your Haymes Manual for any obscure drain points), then use a hose to flush it through backwards (i.e. the opposite direction to the normal flow) until the water comes out clear. It is usually easier to do rad and engine seperately.
...
3
First, if it runs hotter during slower speeds (the 25mph-50mph you mention), I would think this is a sign that you're not getting enough airflow through the radiator. This might be a fan issues, but it might also be some other obstruction that prevents sufficient airflow.
You said you hit a deer and had the radiator replaced as a result. I would check or ...
3
I think you're fine but you need to get your leak fixed.
Based on the comments on the original question:
Oh! I've been checking the overflow tank! :P I remember that being
empty once. I'll have to check the radiator the next time the light
goes on. To answer your question when I would fill it up it was never
more than one $10 container from the ...
3
some of the hoses do look like they're in bad condition ... coolant is
"clean" (no oil/sludge/etc.) but does seem to have a small amount of
shiny metallic particles in it, suggesting maybe a stop-leak product
was used by the previous owner
I think you've already called it: this sounds like a partially (or totally) clogged return from the overflow ...
2
The thermostat controls the temperature in the engine. It opens at a set temp, 195 degrees for example and allows coolant to flow through the radiator. If it's stuck open it would allow coolant to circulate through the radiator all the time not allowing the car to heat up properly. The complaint usually is the heater isn’t warm enough. If the thermostat ...
2
This actually ended up being a very simple problem. Something so simple that I'm almost in disbelief.
My car has been running nearly straight antifreeze.(I'd say about 90% anyway) Everyone I'd talked to locally has said it should run even cooler doing that... but they're wrong. I emptied my expansion tank(not the radiator itself) and filled it with ...
2
You shouldn't be losing fluid - did it all boil off?
If you are ending up with low coolant, I would suspect a leak.
If the level is okay, I would suspect either a restriction in a pipe or the radiator itself, or possibly a damaged thermostat restricting the flow.
Check for a bent or twisted radiator hose or damage to the radiator.
If nothing is obvious, ...
2
This window will almost certainly reduce the effectiveness of the radiator somewhat. The real question is whether that ends up being significant for your application.
Others have suggested monitoring the temperature gauge--if the temp rises above the normal range, you've created a real problem. However, just because the gauge doesn't rise above normal ...
2
If there is a major leak 30 miles may be too far, and you may cause major (very expensive) damage to your cylinder head or engine block.
Please read this question on driving without coolant! for some good advice (which broadly speaking boils down to don't do it!)
2
If you think there is a leak and have 30 miles drive, then you can reserve some pure water with ride and use it. pure water is not alternative for radiator coolant, because water will be boil quicker than coolant. but its far better than running empty coolant.
One more thing if you are living in cold area do not keep water inside radiator long ,It will ...
2
I'm speculating that the under-filled condition resulted in the water pump being unable to move coolant through the radiator (maybe the water pump itself wasn't getting coolant, maybe the level was so low that it couldn't complete the circuit through the radiator and back).
Why you blew a hose is a bit of a mystery...if you were making too much pressure, ...
2
Assuming you mean with just water and no antifreeze, as long as the outside temperature does not drop below 0°C, nothing bad should happen. If the cooling system is otherwise in good shape, plain water should be sufficient to keep the engine cool. If the radiator is partially clogged, or the thermostat isn't opening all the way or is not opening until the ...
2
To add to R...'s answer, I don't know about your Toyota, but on my buick there's a wingnut on the radiator, once I unscrewed that all the coolant came out (so drip pan was my 'special equipment'), once it stopped I tightened the wingnut and added properly mixed coolant, been running fine ever since.
If you really want a peak at what it will take, here is ...
2
The only special equipment you'll need to flush your own radiator is a bucket. The fact that they claimed it would take special equipment is just one red flag. I'd be skeptical they even changed the oil. Just google how to flush your Toyota's radiator, you'll see it's super easy. And see if you can warn everyone else in your area about that shop.
2
You said that the service station didn't mention having to top up the coolant, but I'd start by checking the coolant level yourself. The coolant overflow bottle should be prominent in the engine compartment, and the min/max levels should be well marked.
If the coolant level is good, perhaps you have a failing thermostat. This could result in higher than ...
1
As long as the engine hasn't overheated, you should be fine. If it has, you may be looking at an expensive repair bill...
There are two likely sources of a coolant leak - a burst hose or a leaking radiator. Open the bonnet and check any hoses you can see for either signs of damage, or signs of the leaking fluid - Red OAT often leaves a slight orangey ...
1
A thermostat failing after that sort of mileage isn't that unusual. On an older car, I'd say do it yourself - new 'stats are dirt cheap and easy to test and replace. However, a newer car like that may have more complicated electronics connected to it that prevent you from doing that - Hopefully some of our modern car experts can help there?
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