Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

6

Engine safety. If you lose an accessory belt driven water pump, you're likely to keep driving, thinking the "oh, I just don't have an alternator" while you're busy cooking your engine beyond repair (normally with no temperature notification/change, if anything it'll read cold). When the water pump is on with the timing belt (or geared to crankshaft as is ...


5

This is the heater valve. It's Motocraft part# YG350:


5

I think the main reason for this is convenience. It's an easy place to run the water pump. If you ran it out to a fan belt, it would be in the way of the timing belt while doing it, or it would be a really awkward mess trying to work around it. The second reason is for compactness. With the water pump stuck out of the way, it physically makes the engine ...


5

It's certainly not recommended, but I don't think it will ruin it, as long as you don't leave it in for too long... Flush the coolant system thoroughly to get rid of all traces of contaminants, and refill with proper coolant - it might be worth then doing another flush a few days later if you're worried.


5

It would make no difference if you are standing still or driving the vehicle. You want to ensure you have the heater wide open when you do it to ensure you are getting the old fluid from the heater core as well as the engine. Driving the vehicle around will probably allow the process to happen a little faster, as you engine will get up to operating ...


4

The coolant should not expire any time soon. If it is not in an automobile being used, it is not degrading. With the cap on it, there is nothing contaminating it. From what I was just reading, there is no practical expiration if kept in the original container.


4

This is your Heater Control Valve But I am going to explain what it does. First of all the "wire" you see is actually a vacuum line, it's a hollow (hopefully) air-tight tube that passes vacuum to the Heater Control Valve. The heater control valve is a vacuum actuated valve that in the open position allows fluid to pass through and in the closed position ...


3

Check your coolant level and keep an eye on your temperature gauge. A car will run fine with an overheating engine right up to the point when the engine seizes.


3

There is no way to put sealant around the outside of the housing to get it to stop leaking. You could possibly put a sealant within the coolant system, such as Bar's Radiator Stop Leak, which may or may not solve your leak issue temporarily (may solve it permanently, but I never trust it). Your better bet is to just replace the gasket. This is a ...


3

In terms of possible root causes for failure, the following scenarios are likely culprits for a cooling system to run too cool: A temperature sensor that's reporting lower-than-actual temperatures due to issues like drift/fouling/calibration. A sticking thermostat that is flowing more coolant than necessary to maintain 176 °F. Really cold ambient air ...


3

Yes, it's normal. Maybe just a tiny bit on the cool side. But if you're in traffic a lot that cooler thermostat is a good thing. All the cars I've owned would run between 85 and 95 degrees Celsius. 85 at highway speeds, then creeping up to 95 or 96 when in slow traffic, at which point the fans kick in. Pro tip: the hotter an engine runs, the more ...


3

There is nothing inherently wrong with what the service manager told you. (As an aside, service managers and mechanics are looking for add-on work. They get paid more money for this work than work you bring to them to do. If he says it's not a problem, believe them, because if they could make some money off of you, they'll do it.) If it serves your peace of ...


3

You have at least two options to find the leak. You can buy or rent a coolant system pressure tester. It is a small air pump that pressurizes the system to force coolant out of any weak (leak) points. The advantage to this method over just letting the engine idle is because the engine is cool you can reach your hand around the system without getting burnt. ...


3

As explained on this page, using pure antifreeze alone will not do the job: No matter which type or color your antifreeze is, it will transfer heat away most efficiently when blended with the proper amount of water - a mixture percentage based on the lowest temperatures typically seen in your climate. Most regions are best suited to a 50/50 ...


3

What you're referring to as a "coolant tank" is your radiator overflow tank. While it does have to have some coolant in it, putting coolant/water in it doesn't do anything to cool your engine really. You need to twist the radiator cap off (make sure you wait for it to cool off) and pour coolant or maybe for the time being while testing, just tap water. ...


2

The Polo has a plastic impeller on its water pump spindle which can and does break off causing a loss of water flow and overheating. The thermostat has a pin location locating it in housing. These too can break. The fan coming on -as soon as you start up- means the coolant sensor on the engine and the one on the bottom of the radiator are, one or both, are ...


2

There are several things to look for here: Localize where the fluid is actually coming from. Doing this will allow you to take the next step. Ensure you put all of the hoses back in place correctly. It is easy to get one cocked in the wrong direction, where you think you go it right, but you don't. Check all of them to make sure they are completely in ...


2

Dobey has already told you why you shouldn't use an intercooler as a CC radiator. But let me add something more: a charge cooler does the same job as an intercooler. So instead of using a charge cooler fed by an intercooler, why not just use the intercooler to cool your air? It's what it was designed to do. If you're really worried about the air temperature, ...


2

No, you cannot use an air/air intercooler as a air/water heat exchanger. It's not necessarily that you will see any particular corrosion from filling an aluminum air/air intercooler with 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water mix, but that it will just be horribly inefficient. An air/air versus air/water system have different designs and materials. The diameters ...


2

It's most likely a headgasket. When they fail in a certain way, they allow exhaust gases to get into the coolant circuit instead of escaping out the exhaust valves like the Lord intended. Only way to be sure is to have a compression test done by a workshop. If you're lucky, they'll do it for free, otherwise it's not an expensive or long procedure. They just ...


2

I got my sister's '88 Civic with 120,000 miles in '97. It currently has 383,000 miles on it. Always starts and averages 45-47 mpg on highway (one hour 50 mile trips to work). I maintain it well. Have never flushed cooling system. Use Wal-mart green antifreeze. Change every three years. Including original water pump, car has had three. None have ever ...


2

I have never been able to find any empirical evidence to support the various claims made by different coolant manufacturers. As far as I know, it does not exist. There are no absolutes. You will not necessarily be safe even using coolant with the brand name of your car on it. I have been an auto mechanic for 35+ years. Back in the old days (actually not that ...


2

This is normal behavior for some vehicles. They utilize the fan to further cool the system after engine shut down (even though it does not further circulate the coolant). This is something I would not be worried about.


2

Historically the water pump was at the front of the engine in close proximity to the vehicle radiator, when vehicles were mostly rear wheel drive. There is no real advantage with todays vehicles but they continue to be at the front of the engine. Using the timing belt to drive the water pump lends itself to compactness at the front end of the engine. Some ...


2

Depending on what type of vehicle and the coolant overflow reservoir type (pressurized/non-pressurized), the easiest way to accomplish this is to take the small hose the fluid travels to the overflow through off at the radiator and suspend it down below the level of the reservoir. Gravity will do the rest. Of course you need to drain it into the appropriate ...


2

If you look at the top of the tank, you'll see a screw that holds the tank to the car frame. You can't miss it. This is the only screw that holds the tank. So: Find an appropriate container for the fluid you are going to remove. Unscrew the tank cap and take the tube out. Unscrew the screw that holds the tank. Take the tank out and dump the fluid into the ...


2

You can do a carbon momoxide test on the coolant system to see if you have an internal leak from your engines cylinders. Search on YouTube for 'How to test head gasket failure using an antifreeze HC Tester'.


2

Should you be concerned about this happening again? Yes. You haven't diagnosed or fixed the problem, so the chances of it going away with no further effort from you are very slim. Because the car does not overheat while driving, the thermostat is probably working just fine. The two scenarios which indicate a failed thermostat are Overheating very shortly ...


2

Electrolysis happens over time, and will not cause any damage over an 80 mile trip. People (wrongly) have used straight water in their radiator over the summer months thinking that's all they need and don't have issues until many years down the road. If you didn't worry about it and never changed it again, it would be an issue. Changing it out after an 80 ...


2

Using straight anti-freeze would probably reduce corrosion due it's lack of an oxygen that could be broken off from one of it's 'strings'. Adding water may dilute the anti-freeze but it makes it denser. The water also has that pesky oxygen atom that can be broken off from it that can cause corrosion. That being said, running straight anti-freeze in very ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible