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6

The probable answer here is NO. Engines have freeze plugs in them which, when the block and coolant freezes, will pop out. This is a relief point so as not to damage the block (does not completely rule out block damage). When this happens and the coolant thaws, it will flow out of the block. This is the reason the temp went up and the check engine light came ...


5

Engine safety. If you lose an accessory belt driven water pump, you're likely to keep driving, thinking the "oh, I just don't have an alternator" while you're busy cooking your engine beyond repair (normally with no temperature notification/change, if anything it'll read cold). When the water pump is on with the timing belt (or geared to crankshaft as is ...


5

I think the main reason for this is convenience. It's an easy place to run the water pump. If you ran it out to a fan belt, it would be in the way of the timing belt while doing it, or it would be a really awkward mess trying to work around it. The second reason is for compactness. With the water pump stuck out of the way, it physically makes the engine ...


4

The coolant should not expire any time soon. If it is not in an automobile being used, it is not degrading. With the cap on it, there is nothing contaminating it. From what I was just reading, there is no practical expiration if kept in the original container.


3

This is the heater valve. It's Motocraft part# YG350:


3

You need to drain the oil (let it drain as completely as possible) and put new oil inane run the engine. If you see it come back as a "chocolate milk" looking mixture, you need to change the oil again. This may take several tries (two or three) to get it all out. You need to change the filter with each attempt as well. The reason this is important is because ...


3

Your radiator cap may be bad. If it's not holding pressure, you're going to have some overflow. If that isn't it, the next thing to look at is for a head gasket leak (or possibly a cracked head). Remember, you can have a head gasket leak without oil in the water or visa-versa. You can get a kit from AutoZone or the like to test for exhaust gasses in the ...


2

If jump starting works, it has nothing to do with the coolant. Though coolant doesn't usually just go missing; it's (supposed to be) a closed system. That's worth addressing, too. Quick DIY test to see if the problem is the battery or the alternator: -Go to the hardware store (or ideally the nearest harbor freight tools) and buy a $10 volt meter. Digital ...


2

Something which might help you diagnose the issue better is to do an old school trick on your just replaced distributor cap. This would be to generously spray the inside of the cap and the rotor with WD-40. Many people use this as a lubricant to help with stuck nuts and such. The WD in the name actually means Water Displacement. By spraying this inside, it ...


2

I would think you should be able to if there is a terminal for the wire to attach to. If the terminal has broke off at the base of the sensor, then it probably won't work. I would use a soldering iron, versus open flame type of iron to ensure the heat is more localized. If you are worried about the sensor not working due to the heat, I don't think I would ...


2

No, it's not normal. If it happens over the course of a couple of months, it probably means that there is a very tiny leak somewhere and when the coolant gets hot enough, some of it escapes as steam. Check your cap's tightness first. Or if you're unlucky and your car recently overheated, it may have caused your head gasket to blow in such a way that ...


2

The Polo has a plastic impeller on its water pump spindle which can and does break off causing a loss of water flow and overheating. The thermostat has a pin location locating it in housing. These too can break. The fan coming on -as soon as you start up- means the coolant sensor on the engine and the one on the bottom of the radiator are, one or both, are ...


2

There are several things to look for here: Localize where the fluid is actually coming from. Doing this will allow you to take the next step. Ensure you put all of the hoses back in place correctly. It is easy to get one cocked in the wrong direction, where you think you go it right, but you don't. Check all of them to make sure they are completely in ...


2

Dobey has already told you why you shouldn't use an intercooler as a CC radiator. But let me add something more: a charge cooler does the same job as an intercooler. So instead of using a charge cooler fed by an intercooler, why not just use the intercooler to cool your air? It's what it was designed to do. If you're really worried about the air temperature, ...


2

No, you cannot use an air/air intercooler as a air/water heat exchanger. It's not necessarily that you will see any particular corrosion from filling an aluminum air/air intercooler with 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water mix, but that it will just be horribly inefficient. An air/air versus air/water system have different designs and materials. The diameters ...


2

Historically the water pump was at the front of the engine in close proximity to the vehicle radiator, when vehicles were mostly rear wheel drive. There is no real advantage with todays vehicles but they continue to be at the front of the engine. Using the timing belt to drive the water pump lends itself to compactness at the front end of the engine. Some ...


2

This is normal behavior for some vehicles. They utilize the fan to further cool the system after engine shut down (even though it does not further circulate the coolant). This is something I would not be worried about.


1

It's not unusual for a second radiator to be present behind the main radiator, often to cool the transmission fluid. If these fluids are mixing (water and transmission fluid), then both radiators have been damaged and are leaking their fluids together. Both radiators will need to be removed and repaired. Sometimes coolant will appear in engine oil because ...


1

I take it from the wording, English is not your first language. To answer you outright, there is no reason to mix coolant and oil, under no situation where a vehicle is concerned. If you are actually asking why oil would be fed through something containing coolant (radiator or such), the reason would be simple in that it is cooling the oil. By cooling the ...


1

By far the most likely cause for this is, as you guessed, a head gasket leak, allowing oil to leak through to the cooling system. This often happens not long before complete failure of the head gasket and potentially major damage to the engine, so get it to a garage now for a new gasket, radiator flush, check on rad pump etc.


1

When the word coolant is used in can mean a couple of things. Coolant made up of antifreeze and water out of your household tap, 50-50 solution, would last for around 3 years. Coolant made up of antifreeze and distilled (de-ionised) water, 50-50 solution, should last for around 5 years. Because of the nonsense surrounding 'coolants' always adhere to the ...


1

No, the car is not garbage. But it does need a head gasket replaced, or possibly has a cracked head. In worst case, the engine block is damaged, and the engine will need replaced. Repairing the problem (hopefully only the gasket) and flushing and re-filling the coolant and oil should be all that's needed.


1

Not totally, but this is definitely going to be an expensive lesson in learning where your tires are from the driver's seat. That must've been one heck of a curb, if you banged the front of the car hard enough to damage the radiator and blow fan blades off. Actually, the fan blades more than likely tore up the radiator on their way off, but still - they're ...


1

There are quite a few parts on the front end of a Beamer that could be damaged to lose fluid. Engine radiator being the most obvious, but also the rad expansion tank, AirCon condenser rad, power steering reservoir, power steering hoses across the front subframe, even the screen wash reservoir on the right hand side, and the engines sump. Have you considered ...


1

In direct answer to your question... no, there's probably nothing you can try before you invest in a head gasket. There are two possibilities here. No, there are three. First is that your motor oil is entering the water jacket through a breach in the head gasket - the motor oil is under higher pressure than the coolant should ever be, so it'd pressurize ...


1

It's most likely a headgasket. When they fail in a certain way, they allow exhaust gases to get into the coolant circuit instead of escaping out the exhaust valves like the Lord intended. Only way to be sure is to have a compression test done by a workshop. If you're lucky, they'll do it for free, otherwise it's not an expensive or long procedure. They just ...


1

No one's mentioned the simplest thing yet. If the system is overfilled, it will overflow. As it heats up, the coolant expands and that is why you don't fill up the overflow bottle all of the way. (If you are pouring fluid directly into the radiator, you do fill it up completely.)


1

If you have blown a head gasket(depending on severity)water spitting out of your exhaust is an obvious sign).A very affordable pressure test is advisable and may serve to save you money and time


1

You have air in your system, which is either causing pump cavitation or hot spots. I took a look around on the internet to see what other sites are saying for bleeding the system (which is what you need to do). I could not find any that suggested there are bleeder screws to clear out the gas pockets, so the next best thing is to have you park the truck ...


1

I believe you may be lucky and this isn't permanent damage. If you have a garage, pull your truck into it and stick a nice electric element heater under it and wait a few hours. This is a more gentle method than what my grandfather used to get his tractor started on cold mornings: he literally made a fire under it. Winter conditions require you to have 3 ...



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