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5

Yes, cold starts are hard on engines, this is very common advice. Restarting the engine when you get home should be less of a concern though since the engine is already warmed up. If all you're doing is getting out of the car to close your garage, just leave the engine running, you're not saving yourself any gas by starting it twice. Not only will doing ...


4

There are two things I'd look at as the problem. First and most likely is the solenoid on the starter is almost shot. The solenoid has a large copper washer which is pressed into the two posts (one from the battery connection and the other going to the starter motor). When this wears out, you'll get a clicking sound (almost a dead thud) as the Bendix is ...


4

There are 3 areas to focus on: Battery: Make sure your battery can still hold a charge well as cold is going to show problems first. Double check that your battery cables are tight and not overly corroded. Starter: As Bob asked, if the starter is the original it could be going bad and struggling under only tough conditions Electrical/Ignition Switch: ...


2

I have seem auto mufflers split wide open by an exhaust backfire. Back in the mid 70's and early 80's it used to be one of the top reasons for muffler warranty rejection. You may have damaged a single or several of the internal baffles in the mufflers. This may or may not be a problem. If it is now loud enough it to be a considered an nuisance by local law ...


2

As Hillsons said, cold starts are hard. So are warm starts, but to a lesser degree. The engine has no oil pressure when off, and starting it again causes very slight but very bad metal on metal contact. When warm this is much less contact than when cold, as the oil is usually primed and circulated. When cold the oil settles a bit and moves away from ...


2

I would not worry too much about whether you are going to run out of battery power, especially if you keep the remote-start at a .8 second crank time. You will not burn up enough battery juice to cause yourself any issues. Your battery has several identifiers associated with it. A common one is CCA or Cold Cranking Amps. This shows you what the power output ...


2

If your bike is sitting for long periods in extreme cold the cover will not help with cold exposure. Wind chill has no effect on inanimate objects. The cover design and material are the biggest factors determining whether or not it is suitable for long term use. As long as the humidity level is fairly low (as it would be in -20 degree temps) the cover won't ...


1

I'm thinking your issue is due in part to two things: Glow plugs - Either you aren't letting them warm up enough or one or more are bad Battery - If you battery truly is at 50%, this may not be enough to get the glow plugs up to operating temperature during initial glow plug warm up. Having the battery tested may be a good start point here.


1

I've seen these symptoms once before. In that particular case it turned out to be a failing igniter/power transistor. Went on for nearly 2 years before the cause was isolated, but the igniter module had developed a crack and was arcing badly on first start, but somehow working properly on second start.


1

Try to use some acceleration after start (about 10% of throttle pedal). If it helps then check your idle air control valve


1

It is a carburetor problem, but only because the fuel and air mixture is too lean. In cold environment there is more oxygen in the air, which increases the amount of "air" in the air-fuel mixture. This is further proven by the fact you have to accelerate to keep the bike alive - by accelerating you use parts of the carb only used in medium/high openings, ...


1

I think you need a new stator. Your problem sounds like there are loose connections or there may be reason that the bike is not charging properly. I think you start checking all the basics first and check the battery to make sure it is good. Check the volts on your battery with voltmeter.


1

Turns out it was just my heat shield rattling. I put a hose clamp on it to secure it like in this video http://youtu.be/OO03n22rwfg Anything to do with the transmission (or torque converter, as one friend suggested) was ruled out because the car drives without any problem.


1

Honda assigns the P1399 code for random misfires. On some models this is caused by a clogged EGR Port. The Valve clearance may also be an issue. Another possible cause is the intake air temperature sensor. If it's reading incorrectly it can cause the cold start problem you are having, an possibly even the high speed problem as well.


1

Warmer weather this weekend provided an opportunity to try to get the bike running again. I wanted to give myself the best shot possible, so I installed new spark plugs and picked up some starting fluid. I also found the source of the change in exhaust note that occurred after the backfires. In fact, the difference was on the intake side--the air box had ...


1

I would suspect a worn clutch release bearing, or spigot bearing. How old is the clutch? Both bearings should be replaced when the clutch is replaced, and if it is the original clutch, they are now 18 years old...


1

Bad idle or auxiliary air valve of some sort. Cold-air valve, idle-up solenoid, EGR valve.



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