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What you are experiencing is usually a sign the synchro for that gear is or is going bad. Is it worth replacing my car? Only if you can afford it. Fixing the transmission is going to be way less expensive than replacing the entire vehicle. What precautions should I take? If you need to drive it, just hold the stick in place for that ...


1

Looking at the pictures, I take it the top pic is the one with the cover off (which is shown in the bottom pic). Going off this assumption, this part looks to be attached to an intermediate gear which changes the rotation so the final drive matches the rotation of the engine. It looks as though you'll need exactly the tool you described, a socket with four ...


3

I'm thinking @SteveMatthews may be onto something - If the HVAC system is vacuum operated, one of the vacuum actuators is having an issue (ie: leaking). It may be getting adjusted without you having to do anything. When you shift gears, you take your foot off of the "go pedal" (not a gas pedal in this instance because it's diesel power ;-)), which causes a ...


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I found the following answer to my question after digging more on YouTube, thanks to J&P Cycles and this video https://youtu.be/4p_vjd0GtCk Clutch adjustment must be done with the bike upright or the primary lubricant will spill out of the derby cover. According to the video, this applies to all late model "big-twin" bikes back to the EVO. While it ...


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The clutch is responsible for disengaging the engine from the transmission. There are basically 2 issues you can have with a clutch - slipping, and not disengaging. Slipping will occur when your clutch is engaged, but the engine revs up without accelerating the vehicle, as if you were still riding the clutch. This means you need a new clutch. Not ...


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If you're only having problems with 2,4,R, I'd suspect the gear linkages rather than the clutch - it sounds like it's not going fully into gear, which probably means the fore-aft linkage is loose or misaligned. I had a similar problem on a Peugeot many years ago, it turned out in that case that the gearbox mount had broken, allowing the 'box to drop enough ...


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On top of what Paul already suggested... It is interesting that it is 2nd, 4th, and reverse (assuming that reverse is next to 4th) since they are all on the bottom half. Not sure what would break/wear out to cause that. Follow the cable from to pedal to the throw out arm to check for damage. Check the connections at the pedal and the transmission. Have ...


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I would try and readjust the clutch again and see if that helps. According to the Haynes manual: ... there should be 1-2 milimeters of free play at the bell crank lower end. That's not very much play. Secondarily, I see from this forum, you might have an issue akin to one I had on my car way back when. Check the firewall where the cable goes ...


3

The slave cylinder is mounted on the bell housing with the fluid valve outside, and the piston within the housing. If there is a catastrophic failure, it is likely to be from the piston gasket: then all the fluid goes straight into the bell housing, wetting the clutch. Some points to consider: They may be rather more fluid than the slave piston volume; ...


2

You won't be able to rinse brake fluid off the friction material, if it has become contaminated it will remain so for ever. Whether it needs changing depends on whether it has been contaminated to such an extent as to have a detrimental effect on the clutch performance - which it may not have done - you'd only be able to tell by driving the car (n.b. on the ...


0

What is a clutch? A Clutch is a simple device though not exclusive to auto mobiles which allow two gears/shafts of different speed to be synchronized in a smooth manner. In vehicles, the clutch is used to connect/disconnect the transmission and the crankshaft. What does it do? Basically the clutch acts like a brake for the engine that is why improper ...


7

A basic clutch is made up of three major parts: Flywheel Friction disk Pressure plate (NOTE: These three pieces do not actually go together. I'm using the pictures for illustrative purposes.) The flywheel is attached to the back of the engine. The pressure plate is attached to the flywheel. Sandwiched in between the two is the friction disk. ...


3

The noise you describe is a VERY common issue with the transmission in the model of RX-7 you are driving. As a matter of fact, my current RX-7 (1991, 220k miles) has this exact same issue. Based on your description, the noise is almost certainly coming from the transmission's input shaft bearing - not any part of the clutch assembly, or anything that would ...


3

The torque converter in a "standard" automatic transmission does the job of a clutch, and it doesn't really wear out in the same way as a clutch does - a clutch is two dry pieces of material holding each other through friction (kind of like 2 sheets of sandpaper pressed against each other), and each time the clutch is slipped those surfaces rub against each ...


5

Your instructor properly objected because the clutch/engine and the brakes do opposite things: the former adds energy to the car (speeding it up) and the latter removes energy (slowing it down). If you use both at the same time, then you're just pumping energy from the engine into the brake pads, to no good end. If at the same time you're feathering the ...


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It very much depends on the type of car you have but most paddle shift cars employ an automatic gearbox so are effectively clutchless (relying instead on a torque converter). Some systems employ a robotically operated manual gearbox with clutch (or two clutches on systems such as Volkswagens' DSG). However, the situation you are talking about; slowing down ...


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I can think of three scenarios which may be causing your issue: As @amphibient stated, the synchro may be going bad This could also be due to poor shifting technique. If you don't press the clutch down all the way, you may find yourself grinding gears. If you release the clutch too soon during the shift, you are going to see the same. If you have a weak ...


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I have the same problem with my Tacoma when shifting from the 2nd into the 3rd. The reason in my, and more than likely your case as well are bad syncro rings and the only fix pretty much is to take the gearbox out and either replace the whole thing or rebuild the syncros.


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I'm not going to say anything about the dealership you mention that a quick Google of review sites for them wouldn't reveal anyway. Yes, knocking is an early sign of the dual-mass clutch-flywheel assembly beginning to wear out. How long you will have between audible knocking and replacement is hard to predict. If you are unsure or unhappy about your main ...



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