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if the TOB fails, you will usually hear a loud grinding or squealing when you depress the clutch pedal. Eventual failure will destroy the clutch pressure plate, and clutch disk, and could possibly damage the throwout bearing lever, which could punch a hole in your bell-housing, or damage your flywheel.


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If the noise is only happening when the clutch is engaged (pedal out), it's not the throw out bearing. You'd only hear the noise when you push on the pedal. This is because the only time the throw out bearing is being used is when you are pushing the pedal down. It won't contact the clutch fingers any other time, and therefor cannot make noise with the ...


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This could be the clutch as you seem to suspect. The effect of the clutch not separating the engine from the gearbox fully is that the input shaft never stops rotating when in neutral. If you have noticed the clutch pedal not releasing as high as before, this is likely. If it's the synchronizer that's bad, moving into second gear and then first should help. ...


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It sounds as though the first gear synchro is or has gone out. This is a part within the transmission. The part allows the gears on both sides of the transmission (drive/driven) to mesh correctly. It is a wear item which is designed to take the abuse instead of the gears. If fixing this is not in the near future, you can try something which might help get ...


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Along the lines of what Josh is saying, a lot of cars these days have the clutch and brake master cylinders combined with a tube running from the brake to the clutch to supply it with fluid. If they didn't refill the brake fluid when they did your clutch slave, it could be causing the light to come on.


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First of All , To wear down a modern Clutch plate before its end of life you got to do a lot more than what you have mentioned above. Driving styles vary from person to person but the way you have mentioned is the style of a typical beginner, Once you are experienced enough with the manual tranny it will become second nature and you will do "ALL AT ONCE" ...


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Obviously the answer was to bleed the master/slave hydraulics.


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The only thing which I can think of which might be making any noise is the clutch itself. When you get to 5th gear, which I believe is an overdrive gear in the Ranger, you are applying a lot more torque at the clutch. If it wasn't bedded correctly, it could be slipping in this higher gear, thus causing the noise you describe.


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Your clutch is dead. You'll need a new one. I'm not sure why this would appear to your wife as one side or the other having more power. The noise in the video is the clutch being metal on metal. More than likely, the clutch friction disk material is gone, causing the pressure plate/flywheel to rub against the rivets on the friction disk. Unless you have an ...


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Here is a standard procedure. You may need to use a vacuum hand pump to 'prime' the master cylinder. I have encountered the issue you are describing and the luxury of having a mighty vac to pull the brake fluid through the system. Once the master cylinder is primed, it becomes much easier and you begin to get traction on getting the air out and having the ...


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First, see if you can get the process started by loosening the pressure line(s) and pumping the pedal a few times. Once some fluid makes it way out and starts leaking, tighten the line(s) and continue to bleed the air out as normal. If the process still wont start, remove the master cylinder, bench bleed it, then reinstall. If the master cylinder won't ...


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If it's similar to the Polo, having gear linkage cables, they could have been knocked out of adjustment, or if disconnected probably were not put back exactly. Check out this YouTube video showing the adjustment procedure.


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There is one other thing that can cause what you are describing. There is either a pilot bearing or a pilot bushing that supports the input shaft of the transmission. I don't know which, but if it is a bushing, it would make sense based on your description. If the borrowers slipped the clutch quite a bit and were in a position to use the clutch a lot, ...


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Is it possible to bleed the clutch hydraulics? (I don't remember if the Jeep has that option off the top of my head.) If so, this is where I'd look first. If not, I believe you need to replace them. It seems as though the clutch is not quite letting go when you depress the pedal. The five seconds gives it enough time to spin down. The fact that you can drive ...


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Not a lot of information to go by. Did this happen suddenly? Gradually? It could be a misadjusted clutch pedal/master cylinder actuator rod. Try pulling up on the clutch pedal to see if it releases. If not, locate the clutch master cylinder under the hood, or the slave cylinder on the transmission bell housing and loosen the line at the master, or the ...


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It sounds like a lubrication issue between the release bearing sleeve and the input shaft "snout". The sleeve that the release bearing is attached to is a metal to metal slip fit. I'm other words there is a smooth shaft that the release bearing assembly slides on. There is only a small amount of space between the two, just enough to allow for some grease for ...


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My 2012 Ford Mondeo 1.6 sounded like a farm tractor when cold. 2 months later Ford said the replace the dual mass flywheel. 2 weeks later still the sound persists. Now at 29,000 miles the clutch and DMF had to be replace at a cost to me of £895.00 for non ford parts. Fords said noting they can do. Really fed up, won't drop persuing fords



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