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9

Holding the clutch in is generally not a good idea. The clutch is designed to be used for very short periods between gears, and for holding in first when you are about to pull away. So if you are wanting to coast you should definitely do it in neutral. The difference between these two from a fuel consumption perspective should be marginal. From a safety ...


9

Is it ok to give gas while releasing the clutch? Yes, but your goal is to give exactly the right amount of gas. The thing to remember is that the clutch is a consumable part (it's really a whole system of parts that can be consumed but let's pretend that it's a single unique piece for the sake of discussion). As such, it has a finite supply of work ...


8

It sounds like the clutch is worn out... You can usually tell by gradually applying the gas in the top gear, probably around 2,500 RPM, and the car should accelerate a little bit, but at some point as you press the gas further and further down, you will feel it release and the revolutions will shoot way up without road speed increasing. It basically feels ...


7

If you match revs correctly you should be able to change gear with no ill effects at all. The challenge is of course to match revs. This is pretty easy when accelerating, but when decelerating you'll need to use the accelerator to bump the engine revs up to match. Google for heel-and-toe (this also helps make for faster downshifts when using the clutch) ...


7

The short answer is probably no, this is not bad. Inconvenient at times but likely just fine. The longer answer requires a little more information: Is the clutch fully disengaged after it's depressed past that 2 inch mark? Or is that just the point at which it really catches? It's possible that the clutch is still slipping at that point, making for a ...


7

Most likely cause is a worn or misadjusted clutch. The clutch disc is slipping meaning that all the engines power is not being transmitted to the transmission. Cost of a clutch replacement is to varied to give an accurate estimate. Clarification Note Energy will always take the path of least resistance. From a clutch's perspective, it is much more ...


6

To replace the clutch technically you only need a new clutch. However most people will purchase a Clutch Kit that will usually contain Clutch Pressure Plate Thrust/ Release Bearing Pilot/Spigot Bearing Alignment Tool The last 2 items are not always included in a clutch kit and they are not always necessary, although an alignment tool does make life a ...


5

In regards to the SRT-4 what I'm reading is the modular clutch is an all-in-one setup. The pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel are a pre-assembled piece that mounts onto a "flex-plate". The flex-plate is mounted where on most cars the flywheel is (to the crank and teeth on the outer edge for the starter motor). Apparently this is mainly just an ease ...


5

I'm afraid it sounds like you are being taken for a ride there :( Clutches should last tens of thousands of miles, so if they are failing within a couple of months then there must be an external influence (or you're driving like Colin McRae...) In my experience, a clutch failing to disengage is more often a failure in the clutch release mechanism than the ...


5

When was the last time the transmission's gear oil was changed? If it has been a while (or never), get it changed. Check your manual for the recommended interval, this is one of the fluids that is often overlooked. If it has never been done on a 2003, it needs to be done.


5

DURING cranking, in Neutral, the car races forward The transmission is not in neutral, no other explanation. Check the shifter linkage, it may be out of adjustment, or bent. Those are the most likely causes IMO based on the fact that you put a clutch in the vehicle and the linkage would have been disconnected and reconnected in that process. The ...


5

How does the pedal feel? Does it have the same resistance as normal, or does it feel really soft, and go straight to the floor? If it it the latter, chances are you have air in the system, or a leak - check the fluid level in the reservoir (which should look similar to the brake one, but usually smaller). If it feels normal, there could still be a small ...


5

It sounds like they're trying to take you for a ride to me. I can't see how driving style could cause the slave cylinder to fail - they're separated by a mechanical linkage. I would also dispute that anyone could destroy a clutch with 32k of normal driving - I'd expect it to last at least twice that long. However, a leaking cylinder might cause ...


5

Most vehicles with a standard transmission now use a hydraulic clutch. The clutch system consists of a reservoir with master cylinder, some tubing, and a slave cylinder. It works in a similar manner as your brakes. Pushing the pedal forces a fluid into the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder applies a force to the throw out bearing which causes the clutch to ...


4

Having owned cars with both, I can't say I've noticed any significant performance difference between the two. I can't see any reason why a hydraulic one would be slower or more sluggish than a cable one - bear in mind they both work on the same principle, just that a hydraulic system pushes an incompressible inner medium (the fluid) through a flexible outer ...


4

With the vehicle stopped, and in a safe place, start out in 4th gear, and slowly release the clutch while giving the engine gas. If the clutch is in good condition, the car should stall - if there's any slipping, you'll probably feel it, and should disengage the clutch right away to prevent further damage. If the car happens to start going without ...


3

The main difference of DOT3 and DOT4 is boiling point of the fluid. The DOT3 standard has a lower minimum boiling point requirement then DOT4. Not all fluids are made equal and they will all typically list what both their Dry and Wet boiling points are. You can have one DOT3 fluid that just barely makes it past the standard, then another that can handle ...


3

Apart from NoCarrier's good point about the master cylinder, the other side might also be a problem: the slave cylinder. I had an older Triumph that needed both ends fixed to finally fix the clutch. It turned out the slave cylinder walls had developed rust, which gradually wore down the seals. Having the slave re-sleeved (and new seals!) was also ...


3

That sounds like a clutch that's reached the end of the line. If you're applying throttle and the rev's start to climb faster than the car is accelerating then the clutch is slipping. A clutch can go that quickly... depends on driver skill. I've seen clutches last 180k and still look fresh. There are other folks that have destroyed their clutches in less ...


3

This thread describes a similar problem on a different model year. That said, the symptoms sound strikingly familiar (from the first post in that thread): Make absolutely sure the hole in the bracket is not worn! It should be round with a notch in the top for the new bushing to key into. If the hole is worn even slightly, it's going to have to come ...


3

As mike mentioned in the comments without the specific make model the numbers won't do you much good. Professionals use a labor time guide to look up the amount of labor time to charge for a job. Labor time guides are used because times for a job vary wildly from on year to the next, engine size, make, model etc. Some vehicles will require the sub-frame and ...


3

I think your question may be misguided. The final effect you seem to be looking for is to be able to cruise at a specific speed while using the least amount of petrol, is that correct? This is absolutely possible in modern internal combustion engine cars. You don't do it by turning the engine off and on again, or by depressing the clutch to let the car ...


3

It is likely the dual mass flywheel you found was for the diesel Astra. Some petrol engined cars do use them, but the Astra isn't one of them. Even if it was, failure of a petrol flywheel is very rare anyway - are you positive you need a new flywheel? Regardless, you should trust your mechanic or not use them at all. This sounds like a straightforward ...


3

So you need to find out where on your drive train. Get your Jeep up off the ground so you can drive the wheels, and have a listen. Likely places: Differential Universal joints on axles Tire rubbing on bodywork Brake pad rubbing against disc


3

Here's what we figured out after a few days of resourceful tinkering: The clutch cable was not broken, but it was very worn. The cable was likely binding up, and I'd venture to say it was stretched. -- Replacing the clutch cable made the pedal much lighter; it also disengages farther from the floor. A worn clutch cable is putting a lot of strain on the ...


3

A standard automatic transmission doesn't use clutches in the sense of cutting off power from the engine to wheels. It uses what is called a torque converter which separates the power of the engine from the transmission through a viscous fluid. This allows the engine to continue to rotate even though you have the brakes applied and have stopped the ...


3

Firstly a slight bit of terminology to reduce confusion - the normal state of the clutch is engaged (i.e. engine connected to wheels), and you press the pedal to disengage it. I don't disengage the clutch before braking. This allows me to use engine braking to help reduce the speed of the car - Once the speed of the car gets too low for the gear you're in, ...


3

All cars are different, especially when it comes to clutches. Some have, as you say, a high engagement point on the clutch, where you can almost let the clutch out all of the way before it starts to engage. Others do it much lower in the clutch pedal arch (further pushed towards the firewall). It's just something you have to get used to. I cannot tell you ...


2

It looks like your clutch is worn out, but that's a few years (and certainly) many miles too soon. Does the clutch slip in every gear? And always at a certain speed/rpm? It could be worn out plates, but also a broken pressure bearing? How does the clutch feel when shifting gears? Does it operate smoothly without any grinding (or other weird) sounds? Please ...


2

Excessive wear on the gears and a complete breakdown of the gearbox will be very likely to occur soon. Also the crankshaft and it's bearings will suffer a beating everytime you shift gears which will cause (fatal) damage to the engine. The results will be similar (but definitely not the same) on a bike. If you keep pedaling while shifting gears you'll keep ...



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