Hot answers tagged clutch
9
Holding the clutch in is generally not a good idea. The clutch is designed to be used for very short periods between gears, and for holding in first when you are about to pull away. So if you are wanting to coast you should definitely do it in neutral. The difference between these two from a fuel consumption perspective should be marginal.
From a safety ...
8
It sounds like the clutch is worn out... You can usually tell by gradually applying the gas in the top gear, probably around 2,500 RPM, and the car should accelerate a little bit, but at some point as you press the gas further and further down, you will feel it release and the revolutions will shoot way up without road speed increasing.
It basically feels ...
7
If you match revs correctly you should be able to change gear with no ill effects at all. The challenge is of course to match revs. This is pretty easy when accelerating, but when decelerating you'll need to use the accelerator to bump the engine revs up to match. Google for heel-and-toe (this also helps make for faster downshifts when using the clutch)
...
6
To replace the clutch technically you only need a new clutch. However most people will purchase a Clutch Kit that will usually contain
Clutch
Pressure Plate
Thrust/ Release Bearing
Pilot/Spigot Bearing
Alignment Tool
The last 2 items are not always included in a clutch kit and they are not always necessary, although an alignment tool does make life a ...
5
How does the pedal feel? Does it have the same resistance as normal, or does it feel really soft, and go straight to the floor?
If it it the latter, chances are you have air in the system, or a leak - check the fluid level in the reservoir (which should look similar to the brake one, but usually smaller).
If it feels normal, there could still be a small ...
5
When was the last time the transmission's gear oil was changed?
If it has been a while (or never), get it changed.
Check your manual for the recommended interval, this is one of the fluids that is often overlooked.
If it has never been done on a 2003, it needs to be done.
5
In regards to the SRT-4 what I'm reading is the modular clutch is an all-in-one setup. The pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel are a pre-assembled piece that mounts onto a "flex-plate".
The flex-plate is mounted where on most cars the flywheel is (to the crank and teeth on the outer edge for the starter motor).
Apparently this is mainly just an ease ...
5
The short answer is probably no, this is not bad. Inconvenient at times but likely just fine.
The longer answer requires a little more information:
Is the clutch fully disengaged after it's depressed past that 2 inch mark? Or is that just the point at which it really catches? It's possible that the clutch is still slipping at that point, making for a ...
5
I'm afraid it sounds like you are being taken for a ride there :( Clutches should last tens of thousands of miles, so if they are failing within a couple of months then there must be an external influence (or you're driving like Colin McRae...)
In my experience, a clutch failing to disengage is more often a failure in the clutch release mechanism than the ...
4
With the vehicle stopped, and in a safe place, start out in 4th gear, and slowly release the clutch while giving the engine gas.
If the clutch is in good condition, the car should stall - if there's any slipping, you'll probably feel it, and should disengage the clutch right away to prevent further damage.
If the car happens to start going without ...
4
DURING cranking, in Neutral, the car races forward
The transmission is not in neutral, no other explanation.
Check the shifter linkage, it may be out of adjustment, or bent. Those are the most likely causes IMO based on the fact that you put a clutch in the vehicle and the linkage would have been disconnected and reconnected in that process. The ...
3
The main difference of DOT3 and DOT4 is boiling point of the fluid.
The DOT3 standard has a lower minimum boiling point requirement then DOT4.
Not all fluids are made equal and they will all typically list what both their Dry and Wet boiling points are.
You can have one DOT3 fluid that just barely makes it past the standard, then another that can handle ...
3
Apart from NoCarrier's good point about the master cylinder, the other side might also be a problem: the slave cylinder. I had an older Triumph that needed both ends fixed to finally fix the clutch.
It turned out the slave cylinder walls had developed rust, which gradually wore down the seals. Having the slave re-sleeved (and new seals!) was also ...
3
Having owned cars with both, I can't say I've noticed any significant performance difference between the two. I can't see any reason why a hydraulic one would be slower or more sluggish than a cable one - bear in mind they both work on the same principle, just that a hydraulic system pushes an incompressible inner medium (the fluid) through a flexible outer ...
3
Every clutch is a little bit different.
As long as you understand where the clutch engages, you will be fine. I believe the biggest factor in whether a clutch will last a long time is:
Riding the clutch, driving for long distances with the clutch partially engaged
Dropping the clutch, i.e.- racing starts
Slowing down the vehicle by downshifting and using ...
3
That sounds like a clutch that's reached the end of the line. If you're applying throttle and the rev's start to climb faster than the car is accelerating then the clutch is slipping.
A clutch can go that quickly... depends on driver skill. I've seen clutches last 180k and still look fresh. There are other folks that have destroyed their clutches in less ...
3
This thread describes a similar problem on a different model year. That said, the symptoms sound strikingly familiar (from the first post in that thread):
Make absolutely sure the hole in the bracket is not worn! It should be
round with a notch in the top for the new bushing to key into. If the
hole is worn even slightly, it's going to have to come ...
3
As mike mentioned in the comments without the specific make model the numbers won't do you much good. Professionals use a labor time guide to look up the amount of labor time to charge for a job. Labor time guides are used because times for a job vary wildly from on year to the next, engine size, make, model etc. Some vehicles will require the sub-frame and ...
3
I think your question may be misguided. The final effect you seem to be looking for is to be able to cruise at a specific speed while using the least amount of petrol, is that correct?
This is absolutely possible in modern internal combustion engine cars. You don't do it by turning the engine off and on again, or by depressing the clutch to let the car ...
3
It is likely the dual mass flywheel you found was for the diesel Astra. Some petrol engined cars do use them, but the Astra isn't one of them. Even if it was, failure of a petrol flywheel is very rare anyway - are you positive you need a new flywheel?
Regardless, you should trust your mechanic or not use them at all. This sounds like a straightforward ...
3
So you need to find out where on your drive train. Get your Jeep up off the ground so you can drive the wheels, and have a listen.
Likely places:
Differential
Universal joints on axles
Tire rubbing on bodywork
Brake pad rubbing against disc
3
A standard automatic transmission doesn't use clutches in the sense of cutting off power from the engine to wheels. It uses what is called a torque converter which separates the power of the engine from the transmission through a viscous fluid. This allows the engine to continue to rotate even though you have the brakes applied and have stopped the ...
2
It looks like your clutch is worn out, but that's a few years (and certainly) many miles too soon. Does the clutch slip in every gear? And always at a certain speed/rpm? It could be worn out plates, but also a broken pressure bearing? How does the clutch feel when shifting gears? Does it operate smoothly without any grinding (or other weird) sounds? Please ...
2
Excessive wear on the gears and a complete breakdown of the gearbox will be very likely to occur soon. Also the crankshaft and it's bearings will suffer a beating everytime you shift gears which will cause (fatal) damage to the engine.
The results will be similar (but definitely not the same) on a bike. If you keep pedaling while shifting gears you'll keep ...
2
I would imagine it is the clutch throw-out bearing (alternately called a release bearing). When the clutch pedal is pressed the bearing starts rotating inside the housing. When the clutch pedal is released the bearing stops rotating in a second or two once the pressure is removed from it. Normally, it's silent but bearings can make squealing, grinding, ...
2
I'm not familiar with the Fiesta, but since even much larger cars (with much strong clutch assemblies) don't have hydraulic pumps, I'd expect that it doesn't have one... Should be a simple hydraulic system, basically just a master cylinder, a line, and a slave cylinder down to the actuator. Possible problem with the transmission or the linkage from the ...
2
Mechanical clutches have a cable for actuation, and typically need adjusting throughout the life of the clutch. Hydraulically actuated clutches tend to be self-adjusting, as long as there is enough fluid in the reservoir. However, this does mean that hydraulic clutches can be susceptible to air bubbles in the lines, and water in the system which can lead ...
2
Im useles with computers but please read the whole thing it might help you one day and correct on anything not true.
not all sure how much of this is true but info i so far know and go by,
dot 4 has a higher boiling point and also has borate esters.
dot 5 is silicone based
this is the dry boiling point minimum as i know of;
dot 3, 205 C (401 F)
dot 4, ...
2
After some deeper research, I have found that the cause is a worn thowout bearing. I also see that if this is to get replaced, it is wise to spend a few more $$ and replace the clutch as well as the labor to get at the bearing is the same as clutch replacment. So I guess I will be replacing both.
2
Sounds like your clutch isn't bled correctly, causing it to not disengage from the engine.
Turning the car on/off (are you coasting when you do this?) possibly causes slack in the transmission which allows the gears to be released.
If true, the same effect can be had much easier by simultaneously pulling the gear lever toward neutral while letting off of ...
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