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10

Holding the clutch in is generally not a good idea. The clutch is designed to be used for very short periods between gears, and for holding in first when you are about to pull away. So if you are wanting to coast you should definitely do it in neutral. The difference between these two from a fuel consumption perspective should be marginal. From a safety ...


9

It sounds like the clutch is worn out... You can usually tell by gradually applying the gas in the top gear, probably around 2,500 RPM, and the car should accelerate a little bit, but at some point as you press the gas further and further down, you will feel it release and the revolutions will shoot way up without road speed increasing. It basically feels ...


9

Is it ok to give gas while releasing the clutch? Yes, but your goal is to give exactly the right amount of gas. The thing to remember is that the clutch is a consumable part (it's really a whole system of parts that can be consumed but let's pretend that it's a single unique piece for the sake of discussion). As such, it has a finite supply of work ...


8

If you match revs correctly you should be able to change gear with no ill effects at all. The challenge is of course to match revs. This is pretty easy when accelerating, but when decelerating you'll need to use the accelerator to bump the engine revs up to match. Google for heel-and-toe (this also helps make for faster downshifts when using the clutch) ...


7

The short answer is probably no, this is not bad. Inconvenient at times but likely just fine. The longer answer requires a little more information: Is the clutch fully disengaged after it's depressed past that 2 inch mark? Or is that just the point at which it really catches? It's possible that the clutch is still slipping at that point, making for a ...


7

Most likely cause is a worn or misadjusted clutch. The clutch disc is slipping meaning that all the engines power is not being transmitted to the transmission. Cost of a clutch replacement is to varied to give an accurate estimate. Clarification Note Energy will always take the path of least resistance. From a clutch's perspective, it is much more ...


6

Is the clutch cable operated or hydraulic? On hydraulic clutches that's a common symptom of a failing master and/or slave cylinder(s).


6

To replace the clutch technically you only need a new clutch. However most people will purchase a Clutch Kit that will usually contain Clutch Pressure Plate Thrust/ Release Bearing Pilot/Spigot Bearing Alignment Tool The last 2 items are not always included in a clutch kit and they are not always necessary, although an alignment tool does make life a ...


6

It sounds like they're trying to take you for a ride to me. I can't see how driving style could cause the slave cylinder to fail - they're separated by a mechanical linkage. I would also dispute that anyone could destroy a clutch with 32k of normal driving - I'd expect it to last at least twice that long. However, a leaking cylinder might cause ...


6

Most vehicles with a standard transmission now use a hydraulic clutch. The clutch system consists of a reservoir with master cylinder, some tubing, and a slave cylinder. It works in a similar manner as your brakes. Pushing the pedal forces a fluid into the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder applies a force to the throw out bearing which causes the clutch to ...


5

How does the pedal feel? Does it have the same resistance as normal, or does it feel really soft, and go straight to the floor? If it it the latter, chances are you have air in the system, or a leak - check the fluid level in the reservoir (which should look similar to the brake one, but usually smaller). If it feels normal, there could still be a small ...


5

It could be the thrust bearing of the clutch that's worn down. It makes a whining noise when the clutch is disengaged and it reguires replacing the clutch and thrust bearing to solve this.


5

Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is leaking. If you pump up the pedal with your foot, it might retain pressure for you to drive for a while, but after it sits, the symptoms will return. Time to replace the clutch master cylinder or check for brake line leaks.


5

In regards to the SRT-4 what I'm reading is the modular clutch is an all-in-one setup. The pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel are a pre-assembled piece that mounts onto a "flex-plate". The flex-plate is mounted where on most cars the flywheel is (to the crank and teeth on the outer edge for the starter motor). Apparently this is mainly just an ease ...


5

I'm afraid it sounds like you are being taken for a ride there :( Clutches should last tens of thousands of miles, so if they are failing within a couple of months then there must be an external influence (or you're driving like Colin McRae...) In my experience, a clutch failing to disengage is more often a failure in the clutch release mechanism than the ...


5

DURING cranking, in Neutral, the car races forward The transmission is not in neutral, no other explanation. Check the shifter linkage, it may be out of adjustment, or bent. Those are the most likely causes IMO based on the fact that you put a clutch in the vehicle and the linkage would have been disconnected and reconnected in that process. The ...


5

When was the last time the transmission's gear oil was changed? If it has been a while (or never), get it changed. Check your manual for the recommended interval, this is one of the fluids that is often overlooked. If it has never been done on a 2003, it needs to be done.


5

Sounds like something went wrong with the pressure plate... Diaphragm spring snapped or something? Never heard of it before but anything is possible. Might as well replace it and make sure the slave cylinder/throwout bearing are properly adjusted.


5

The life of the clutch all depends on how it's driven. A clutch driven in the hills of San Francisco is not going to last nearly as long as one driven on the plains of Texas. Yes, the pads do wear out over time. It usually isn't hard to tell when they start to go. You will notice more slippage when taking off from a stop. You might also have a smell which ...


5

This shall be a lesson to you about winterizing your bike. Let's take it from the top. Drain that nasty ancient gas out of the tank AND out of the carburetor bowl(s). You want it completely gone, all of it. If you're lucky, you'll be able to use "carburetor & fuel injector cleaner" (the fuel additive, NOT the spray) to clean any new varnish out of the ...


4

With the vehicle stopped, and in a safe place, start out in 4th gear, and slowly release the clutch while giving the engine gas. If the clutch is in good condition, the car should stall - if there's any slipping, you'll probably feel it, and should disengage the clutch right away to prevent further damage. If the car happens to start going without ...


4

That sounds like a clutch that's reached the end of the line. If you're applying throttle and the rev's start to climb faster than the car is accelerating then the clutch is slipping. A clutch can go that quickly... depends on driver skill. I've seen clutches last 180k and still look fresh. There are other folks that have destroyed their clutches in less ...


4

Having owned cars with both, I can't say I've noticed any significant performance difference between the two. I can't see any reason why a hydraulic one would be slower or more sluggish than a cable one - bear in mind they both work on the same principle, just that a hydraulic system pushes an incompressible inner medium (the fluid) through a flexible outer ...


4

The main difference of DOT3 and DOT4 is boiling point of the fluid. The DOT3 standard has a lower minimum boiling point requirement then DOT4. Not all fluids are made equal and they will all typically list what both their Dry and Wet boiling points are. You can have one DOT3 fluid that just barely makes it past the standard, then another that can handle ...


4

We have a 2011 Ford Focus TDCi 115 engine (same, I assume in your Mondeo econetic) and we are currently having our slave cylinder and clutch plates changed. The car is on 35,000 miles and has previously had the clutch master cylinder replaced. According to many Ford forums, it is very common on these new 1.6 TDCi 115 engines to have clutch related issues. ...


4

You will feel any of the following "Slippage" Engaging the clutch will be very high on the clutch pedal. Squishy clutch A foul smell Trouble changing gears A test that I do is to find a nice stretch of road, and go into 1st. Get the revs up really high, and jump directly into 4th. If you still have high revs, the clutch needs replacing. If the car ...


4

It sounds like one of your main bearings is going out in your transmission, either at the front or the back of the transmission (probably the front). When your transmission is under load (clutch engaged, in gear), you won't necessarily hear it. Load can happen either during acceleration or deceleration. If you are really paying attention and it is loud ...


4

They should be; doing so thoroughly impregnates the surface with oil. If you simply assemble it dry, then oil will have a hard time getting to some of the friction plate surfaces so they'll run dry or nearly dry until the clutch has been used a number of times, and during that interval the clutch is likely to wear much faster than normal.


4

Please note that I'm using descriptive terms in this answer; there is a lot more to the mechanics than I will cover. tl;dr: Yes. You certainly can damage the vehicle by shifting from N (neutral) into D (drive) when the engine is revving (not idle). In A Nutshell By dumping the clutch in a manual, a gear is already engaged and you are connecting the ...


4

Bottom Line Up Front: Basically there is no difference. You will break either type by doing what you describe. To answer your question of why you shouldn't do neutral drops in an automatic transmission ... consider this: Internally, the transmission is made up of bands, planetary gears, clutches, steels, sprag units, servos, and at least one pump to move ...



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