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10

Unless you've got an extraordinary circumstance or legitimate reason for using it, don't. Chances are the usage will temporary make the symptoms subside, only to return again later. The way I see it, if your vehicle required it you would find it listed in the recommended maintenance items list in your owner's manual. I think another side to this question ...


8

Clean the stickers and the immediate surroundings using a strong solution of car all purpose cleaner and water or car shampoo (without wax!) and water. Warm the sticker with a hairdryer or a hot air gun to about 30 degrees Celcius. Start peeling of the sticker gently, you might want to use some thing plastic tool like a plastic putty knife of an ATM card or ...


7

Oil changes are a boring job! As Hasen says, a larger size oil catch pan is the only real solution. Before you start, try and estimate the direction of flow. If the drain plug is on the side of the sump (oil pan), the oil will begin to flow horizontally, curving down with gravity, and hit the ground around 9-12" out from the hole - assuming you're worknig ...


7

I would definitely not intentionally put sodium hypchlorite bleach in my radiator. Vinegar is one thing, but the sodium hypochlorite will attack anything aluminum in your radiator, intake manifold, block, or head. It'll also attack (vigorously) any rubberized gaskets that're in contact with coolant. Even disregarding outright measurable damage, it'll release ...


6

Clean with soap and water, rinse clear, then dry with a microfiber cloth. The key is the microfiber cloth.


6

If you have a real enviromental concern look for a hand cleaner that is citrus based.Wipe your hands on a disposable towel and throw it in the regular trash. Most of us just wash our hand and rinse it down the drain. The brake dust doesn't contain any grease or oils. It is a combination of metal particles,maybe some ceramic particles and binders that hold ...


6

I would not use that solution to clean my radiator. Remember that a radiator itself is primarily made of fairly thin aluminum. The bleach/vinegar could very easily damage the structure and weaken it. A washing machine is made of (in most cases) a steel drum coated with porcelain, or stainless steel, both of which are very sturdy and are made to last a long ...


5

First of all, is brake dust always going to be this much of an issue, or is it worse since I just got the car and it had been sitting at a dealer for months before. Yes, you're always going to have brake dust. A lot? It's hard to say. You'll always have more on the front wheels than the rears due to brake bias. Second of all, how long is it ...


5

If it was anywhere other than the bed of a truck, the answer would probably be kitty litter, but I don't think that will work in this case. I'd look at some sort of degreaser - I know you can get engine cleaners which should do a good job of it, something like this. The standard warnings and disclaimers apply: try the product on a small spot to ensure ...


5

There are "sticker removers" specifically for automotive use that should be able to soften the residue so you can get it off. I also had reasonable success with Autoglym tar remover. In either case, make sure you're using something that's safe on automotive paintwork.


4

In conjunction with @Bob's answer, for next time, prevention is even better than cure: If you can't park undercover, our use a cover on your car, invest some time and money in applying a good polish and wax when you wash your car. Turtle wax will help mess slide off, even after baking in the sun.


4

This is a very nice summary of a straight-forward procedure: Take a clean microfiber polishing cloth, fold it four ways to create a thick, plush wiping cloth. Next, spray one side with your favorite spray detailer, the idea is to hyper-lubricate the entire face of one side. Next place it onto the dried bird dropping. Wet the cloth with ...


4

Aside from the general desire for cleanliness, there are couple things that come to mind: With clean engine it is easier to see if anything is out of order, such as fluid leak. This, potentially, can have dire consequences, if not caught in time as, according to U.S. NFPA report, 2/3 of vehicle fires are caused by mechanical or electrical failures. In ...


3

What I do is to first hand wash/rinse them in a 5 gallon buckets with a strong mix of laundry detergent. This removes most of the heavy oil along with the smell and the grit. Then they go in the washer on hot wash cycle. I then just hang them to dry on a rope in the shed. Using the dryer seems to release some of the waxes and residual oil onto the dryer ...


3

As a fellow driveway warrior I feel your pain. I have a good experience with getting a large diameter oil container. If your car has its oil filter in a tough location you are just gonna have to live with some mess. But large easy to grab container helps. If I wanted to spend the cash I would shoot for a remote oil filter. A lot of BMW's have their oil ...


3

I always use brake cleaner for all metal parts, some of which could be related to actual brakes. It's good for for anything from gears to axles, bearing races, rotors.


3

I don't know about a homemade mix (I used to use dubbin but that is probably too shiny for you) but I know Black Magic does have a matte black tire spray. There are some reviews with pictures out there if you google it.


3

What state is the engine casing? is it all apart? or together? if its all apart then flushing it with something like WD40 or a very thin oil may work better than foam.


3

Having a clean engine bay is really nice when you need to work on the engine, and it helps identifying leaks. There are a few things to be careful about when cleaning though. Pressurized water can get into electrical connections and cause shorts. Water causes corrosion. Cleaning old degraded plastic connectors and shields can cause them to fall apart. If ...


3

I would suggest you try something like Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover. Not knowing exactly what the substance is on your finish, I'd start light and go stronger from there. The Bug & Tar stuff will do it's thing without damaging your paint finish. As you get more involved in what you are trying to do to remove the substance, the greater risk you'll ...


3

First of all, don't use a hairdryer as I believe this will actually make it harder to get the sap off of the vehicle or at the very least will ultimately cause finish damage. Here are a few things you should try to remove the sap safely when you first discover the sap: Clean your car as soon as possible. The longer tree sap or any substances like bird ...


3

I personally prefer citrus-based cleaner. I had used Park Tools bicycle chain cleaner, because I had it laying around, and it works great, although expensive. I plan on buying generic cleaner in large containers. It also has a benefit of being bio-degradable (oil and gunk is not, but at least it doesn’t add to the water-table pollution hazard). I usually ...


2

Use a hair dryer to heat them up and carefully use a razor blade to get under the edge to start pulling it. Use alcohol to remove any residual adhesive. Since it is possible that alcohol may damage some fabrics, use cautiously/sparingly at first. Applying alcohol to a rag and using it to wipe is always safer than applying alcohol directly to the fabric.


2

I usually just use a Steam Jenny basically a hot water pressure washer, starting at one edge working my way across the sticker. If you don't have access to that you can use a heat gun or hair drier to heat up the sticker and peal off the sticker starting at one edge keeping it at a 90 degree angle while doing so. You can also use a plastic putty knife or ...


2

For cleaning carpets many of the high-end professional detailers avoid using shampoos since it's nearly impossible to rinse out completely and the residue will attract dirt in the future. Instead they use a steam cleaner. Here is a video demonstration: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7440721179397618761&hl=en Unfortunately these steam machines ...


2

Here's a tip for pouring the oil in: pour from the "wrong" side of the container. It's easier to control the start when you do that.


2

I'd use a degreaser as Chris mentioned, but would be a bit reluctant to use an engine cleaner since it can be a bit harsh. You didn't mention if you bed has a liner or what it's made of (newer Tacomas have a composite liner), but it's pretty safe to use Simple Green as a degreaser. It's also less harsh than many others.


2

I personally use Stoner Invisible Glass wipes (good for inside and outside). However, as mfr suggested, water + soap, rinse, and then microfiber will work just as well. Most cleaning solutions will get you 95% of the way there no problem; if you want that extra 5% you need a good microfiber cloth.


2

I clean with standard glass cleaner, then dry with newspaper.


2

I had a Ford Probe with a 2.2L Mazda engine with nearly the same issue. I did everything you said, multiple spark plug changes, fuel cleaners, sea foam, etc. etc. The problem was the spark plug wires. They looked perfectly fine, but when I replaced them as a last resort the whole issue cleared right up. I later noted a small crack in one where the wire was ...



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