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21

This is analagous to down shifting in a manual. This is a lower gear for the transmission which means the engine revolves at a higher rate producing more back pressure at the same speed as a higher gear. When going down a hill, if you downshift that will reduce the demands on the braking system, due to the back pressure. You will often see truck drivers ...


15

In addition to what Patrick said, D3, or whatever else it's called in various makes and models, is also useful for those times when you're climbing a hill and the transmission keeps shifting back and forth between gears. There may also be times, such as when driving on very slippery surfaces, when a gear shift could cause the car to lose traction. In such a ...


15

I would suggest that the original problem was not the use of E10 (the vast majority of all gas sold in the US is E10 fuel due to federal mandate), but rather you received a ration of bad gas which probably had water in it, or was old gas (had been sitting for a while without new gas infused in the mix). I don't think there are any remnants of the bad gas in ...


13

The ECON button is not a placebo, though the wording from that specific web page is a bit vague. The key is that the ECON button and the Eco-Assist system are two separate things. According to Honda, pressing the ECON button configures your car to improve mileage at the cost of performance. Turning it off will improve power and reduce mileage, which you ...


9

Upon the regular engine starting key turn area the dash lights dim and there maybe a single 'tch sound or no sound at all coming from the engine block. Sadly, I know this sound well. This sounds like a dead battery. Here are the steps that I would suggest: Charge the battery with a plug-in battery charger. They aren't terribly expensive to ...


9

Tyres screech when they skid on a dry road surface. Your car will have ABS and probably some stability control too, which stop tyres from skidding by modulating the braking force around the tyres that have the most grip or by reducing the braking force just enough to prevent a skid. Unfortunately it means you don't get the screeching sound of 70's police ...


8

There really isn't an indicator for belts, unfortunately. If the boyfriend of the previous owner says the dealer changed it, bring the car to that dealer, if possible, and have them look up a service record. If you're far away from the dealer, call in and have your VIN handy. I'd say this is your best bet.


8

It was indeed the catalytic converter (the EX does not have a pre-cat). After replacing it, the downstream sensor graph spends most of its time above 0.5 V, as it should if the converter is working. Update: I started getting this error code again, a little over a year after replacing the cat. I also finally found a guide on how to read these graphs, from ...


8

Although automated manuals are becoming more popular, the 2012 Civic (from my 2 seconds of searching) appears to be a normal automatic. Even still, I'm guessing your vehicle may have the sensors and programming necessary to determine that it's descending an incline and is employing engine braking to help you slow down. What it sounds like it's doing is ...


8

Mostly replacement is preventative maintenance. Eventually they'll get cracks that moisture can get into, etc. If they test good, they're probably fine for the moment, however, at their age they could develop problems any time. On my '91 Toyota, I've been through several sets now, and have to say that in my case, OEM is the best. I've tried other brands ...


8

Your most expensive problem is that a V-tec motor is designed to operate at higher RPM's than your motor can handle. This would mean that you'd have to get stronger pistons and connecting rods (or conrods as they're referred to). You'd also need to upgrade your valve springs to cope with the higher RPM. All in all, you're probably going to be spending about ...


8

This is unrelated to the use of E10. Almost all, if not all modern vehicles can use E10. Concentrations above 10% Ethanol, E15 for example can cause problems in cars not designed for it. What you are describing is a misfire, and it's likely cause is in the ignition side. Spark plugs, wires, etc. Check for history codes, if your check engine light was ...


8

At a guess? From your description I'd bet it has a blown head gasket. The only way to tell if this is so is to do a sniffer test (search for "block tester") at the radiator. There are testers which, when in contact with hydrocarbons, change color from blue to green to yellow. Here is an example: The only way the fluid will change color is in the presence ...


7

Check the other end of the wires to make sure you did not loosen them. Your wires could be going bad and moving them around made the problem worse. Would not hurt to replace them as well. Also it could just be a coincident with the spark plugs, it could be a fuel issue or a problem with your distributor. Although, this is less likely than the first two ...


7

You don't weigh them against each other. Items are generally inspect or replace at x miles or y period of time, whichever comes first. This is what you need to do to keep the car within factory tolerances. Go outside of that range and you become a "test driver", which may not be an issue, but it could be for certain parts...


7

Depends on who you ask. Any tire shop will say yes, it affects handling and braking. And it will. But to what degree? Not much. If the tread life of all the tires are similar, the ratings similar, etc. you can reduce this. Still, the different tread patterns will cause different handling. In the rain perhaps one tire will be less effective than the others ...


7

Cabin air filters will usually filter the air on either setting if located on the cabin side of the firewall. But even in recirculation mode, outside air will make its way in. Just be sure to replace it as frequently as your manual suggests. However, filters located under the hood at the air intake will not filter recirculated air. Edit: I decided to ...


6

Normally strut failure makes it to where they are ineffective in dampening the movement of the vehicle on the springs. This wouldn't cause a "rough" ride but in fact the opposite making it very soft and wavy. Where you'd hit a bump and the car would bounce multiple times as it settles back down on the springs. The strut reduces that movement allowing the ...


6

I would say that it is most likely a balancing issue. In order to find out, I would: Use the car's jack to clear each front wheel from the ground. Give the wheel a spin and check to see that the spinning tire does not vibrate (sideways and/or up-and-down). This could indicate a damaged rim or a damaged tire. If pt. 1 does not give any indication, unmount ...


6

As they are made of rubber, belts begin to perish over time, and this weakens them. The constant flexing as the engine turns accelerates this weakening process. Eventually (if it weren't replaced), the rubber would split and the belt would snap - causing very expensive damage to your engine... It is quite easy to visually observe a belt that definitely ...


6

A lot of this depends on where and how you are driving - for normal street driving I wouldn't be too worried. There'll be a slight grip imbalance at the back which might affect braking slightly (but keep in mind that the front wheels are contributing about 70% to the overall braking effort) and there's going to be a slight difference in grip between either ...


6

You have the D16A6 engine. From searching various forums it seems that is an interference design. However, while valve damage is possible (probable?), it may not be certain. There do seem to be reports of timing belt breaks without valve damage. Then again, there are reports of bent valves, too (though that is a later 1.7L version of your engine). A break at ...


6

I would think the alternator is the culprit, You can take your car down to an Advance Auto Parts, O'Reilly, Autozone (or the like) where they will test it for free. They can also check your battery, which may be the culprit, but I doubt it. It sounds like the internal regulator is going out (or you might have lost one or more diodes) on the alternator. ...


6

As discussed in the comments already, the clicking you hear is probably the starter solenoid. You have ruled out a weak battery being the probable cause by attempting to the jump-start the engine. This means either the power cable running directly from the battery to the starter motor is too resistive/poorly connected, or that the starter motor itself is no ...


6

The rubbing sound is likely a seized brake caliper. It is highly likely that the cheapest option will be to have the caliper replaced. If the car decelerates quickly, like you say, then it is not safe to drive. The brake and surrounding components will be getting hot. This could lead to a seized bearing and possible sudden failure. The heat buildup ...


6

You want to make sure you do not put tap water into the cooling system on your vehicle. The cooling system has a leak, which is why you need to refill it periodically. Look on the ground where you park and note any wet spots. Check all the hoses to and from your radiator for any signs of a leak such as wet fluid or runny looking patches of evaporated fluid ...


6

With a flat thin small screwdriver, you should be able to wiggle under it and pry up a little bit, then move to the opposite side of the same fastener and do the same thing. Working back and forth should bring it off of the pin without issue. The fastener thing may end up a little bent, but as long as the pin is okay, I'd suggest you'd be in good shape. This ...


6

As long as the part you are buying is CAPA Certified, you can be guaranteed it will have the same level of fit and finish as an OEM part. Certified Auto Parts Association (CAPA) is an independent testing organization which does just that for vehicle parts. As long as it is certified, you are guaranteed the part will work just like the original. All you ...


5

The 30k service, as performed by a Honda Dealer, would consist of the following things: First and foremost a basic oil change service. This includes oil and filter, adjustment of tire pressures, and an inspection of the underside of the vehicle(suspension and steering, exhaust, etc), the topping off of any fluids, and a check of all front and rear lights. ...


5

As already stated, get the estimate on paper with parts and labor broken down. Go to another shop and get an estimate, tell them reasons related to your car of why you want the estimate, not "i have this estimate, can you do better". If you've noticed vibration under heavy braking, noises or just reached the number of miles where you want them checked for ...



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