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9

The problem is, the crossfire isn't just high compression, I believe its supercharged as well. Forced induction motors like octane - the high pressure, high compression, and most importantly high combustion temperatures make you more prone to detonation. There are enough electronics in the engine (knock sensor for one) to realize that something is amiss ...


9

To answer your question: Tools that check the code normally can also clear them (some handheld ones are cheap). However they only stay cleared until the next warm up cycle that takes the measurement. (Note: emissions testing machines will realize if the code has been cleared and if a good measurement has not yet been taken). However, the bigger problem is ...


7

A defective ignition switch, which has been attributed to several deaths, and caused several models of GM cars to spontaneously shutdown during operations. These reports very accurately describe what we noticed. The purge valve solenoid and vapor canister were contaminated with fuel. Update: So the above is what the dealership said was wrong, and we got ...


7

As for the blower only working on max, that screams resistor pack. It's usually in the passenger foot well near the blower motor itself. Sounds like it's held in by two 8mm bolts in your case. Shouldn't be too terrible of a job, but you might want to avoid it if you've got back or neck problems. I usually put the seat back down as far as it will go and ...


5

How does an Rain sensing wiper work? Most modern cars have a device called a Optical Rain Sensor fitted onto the windscreen to detect rain and other obtrusive material. It simply works by firing an infra-red wave at an angle (45 degrees) from one side towards a receptor. When there is nothing on the wind shield the receptor picks up the infra red wave and ...


4

Offhand, sounds like something is bad in the system for delivering power to the starter motor. It could be a blown fuse, damage to the wiring, or a bad starter relay/solenoid. If you don't hear any click when you try to start, it's probably not the starter motor itself that's bad.


4

This is normal behavior - When the engine is not running, there is no oil pressure, so when the ignition is turned on, that light will be on. As Larry says, this functions as a bulb test so that you know that it is working. When you start the engine, the oil is pumped round, the pressure goes up and the light goes out.


4

I answered this same question here: Kia Soul aftermarket headlights bottom line: HID retrofit = bad idea unless your projectors are made for them. You WILL blind oncoming drivers. If HID is an option from the factory for the Sebring, I would get those housings rather than retrofitting your existing halogen setup. Here is a good (though exhaustive) read ...


3

The heat problem sounds like poor coolant circulation, possibly due to low fluid level or partial clogging.


3

This is one of those eternal debates that have very few definite answers. My view is: Try lower octane gas, if you notice either knocking or decreased performance then you should stick with the higher octane fuel. Try midgrade first, then if everything is good, try regular. My mother had a Mazda Miata that recommended Midgrade but would run fine on ...


3

Similarly to NoCarrier, I answered a similar question on Upgrading a Jeep Wrangler to HID lights. In my experience, those HID lights that "blind you" are the ones done aftermarket and I don't believe they're legal. If your friend has a factory kit, you will likely notice that the lights have a very strong cut-off point, they really only illuminate the road ...


3

These are two very separate problems, though you could try just having the codes cleared first (since they have been read, hopefully they have already been cleared). With the brevity of the question, I'll assume you did this and these are the two codes which have remained. Soooo ... The P0340 has to do with the cam position sensor. This seems like a fairly ...


3

The sound of the clicking is from the starter relay. There is a little bi-metal strip inside of the plastic housing and it's flapping back and forth. It's the same concept as a turn signal, it's just happening more rapidly. It means the voltage on your battery is low. Even though you just drove it, it might not be holding a charge well. Very hot ...


2

Check to see if there is a recall. Ford Contours came from the factory with a resistor blowing feature. The fix was new wiring, a new resistor, and a new climate control switch. I fixed one that had a resistor that looked like it had been in a toaster. Wires were melted, too. And of course, the recall had just expired. Ugh. Do your resistors just ...


2

I eventually discovered there are basically two ways to do this. One is to use the part FossilizedCarlos mentioned, but you must also get an alternator spacer set, or else the brackets do not help much. I had previously purchased the bracket set but couldn't figure out how it was supposed to help. The spacer set is the missing link, although they are hard ...


2

Speaking to the asker: From page 158 of the 2005 Crossfire Owner's Manual: "DaimlerChrysler Corporation requires the use of 91 octane or higher premium fuel to minimize the potential for engine damage." Spend the extra $4 per fill-up and get the 91 octane. Speaking to the question itself: Without specifics, and without defining "high" and "high ...


2

The defrost setting (left most position on the right knob) should cycle the a/c and blow dried air onto the windshield. The a/c should dehumidify the air the result of which is less fog. The recirc function you are looking for is the two right most switch positions. This is not the selections you want for defogging. The humidity in the cabin will not be ...


2

I have the same problem with my 2010 300 and I now think it is a design flaw. Later models have fixed the problem with door vents that help. I am also in Ontario and this winter <2015> is proving to be tough for fogging the windows. What seems to work is running the defog on full blast (which is noisy, unfortunately) and keeping the temperature inside at ...


2

Basically this is a bulb test. The CEL and Oil pressure light stay on until the engine is cranked. Air bag lights, ABS lights as well as others flash a certain number of times or stay on for a few seconds then turn off. This is normal operation for those lights.


2

This doesn't sound like fuel injectors at all. My first to suspects are the IAC (Idle Air Control) and the AC compressor. Does the AC work fine otherwise? When not at idle. If so I am leaning more toward the IAC. The computer on the car maintains idle speed by opening and closing a small air passage with a stepper motor. When you turn on the AC and put the ...


2

Bubbling probably means that air pressure is building in the coolant. This is often caused by a blown head gasket, where coolant leaks into one or more cylinders in the engine, and is simply burned off, so you don't see any leaks or coolant on the ground, as it's leaking internally. Compression from the cylinder forces air back through the head gasket into ...


2

If you're lucky like I was, it simply means there's a leak in one of your pipes or the coolant bottle is cracked. This would allow air to escape, meaning you lose pressure, which in turn allows the coolant to boil. Look for a tiny leak in the pipes or bottle somewhere. When the engine is hot and the coolant is boiling, open your hood and have a look around. ...


2

I think the problem is, one or both of your battery leads are not connected properly. You need to do two things when you installed the new battery. Ensure the leads are completely clean of any type of debris or corrosion. Second, ensure they are tight enough to have a proper and secure connection. I believe the Concorde has side posts on the battery. These ...


2

They might have been trying to save you money, but in the long run it's always best to have rotors and pads replaced at the same time. To explain more, cheep rotors are very common. What makes them cheaper? They are thinner and often softer, which means they wear faster and are easily warped. Resurfacing them is often a waste because the process of ...


1

Embedded in your cooling system radiator is a transmission oil cooler, it comes as part of the radiator. From your description, "... oil flooding out..." it would appear that your oil cooler has burst/split, and is pumping transmission oil out onto the floor. If this is so it will mean a replacement radiator/oil cooler assembly.


1

The short answer is NO No reputable shop is going to even consider doing it for you, as it opens you and them up to a major liability. Unfortunately for you the vehicle was made in the time frame when manufactures hadn't fully dealt with the problem of small adults and children being injured by the airbags. The vehicle is equipped with dual stage ...


1

The clicking might be a CV joint or wheel bearing and most likely not related to the throttle issue. First look at the floormats or anything that might be against the gas pedal. Checking a couple of forums I found some items about throttle cable fraying. I would diconnect the cable and cycle the throttle body, see if the spring returns it to the closed ...


1

I cannot think of any car that does not illuminate the engine/oil symbols when the key is in the ON position with the engine off. It is perfectly normal.


1

Depending on the shops hourly rate it seems at least reasonable. If the hose has been seeping or leaking slowly for some time the area might need to be degreased and tested to determine where the actual leak was occurring. A dye may have been added and the system run to verify that there is only one source for the leak. At a labor rate of $80 an hour that ...


1

You need to have the AC button on. The Bottom left center with the snowflake. That switch has to be on for the AC compressor to activate. I have no idea why some manufactures choose to design cars this way. You can have the temp in any position so you can still have heat, you just need the AC switch on for the AC compressor to activate and dehumidify the ...



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