Hot answers tagged chevy
8
Here it the procedure for 're-learning' the master key for my Chevy Malibu. I assume that most Chevy's that have a transponder work this way well:
With an unlearned master vehicle key, turn ON the ignition, but not the engine:
Wait for roughly 10 minutes (mine was slightly longer) for the 'security indicator' to turn off:
Turn the ignition completely ...
4
If the engine is a non-interference design, you're fine. If it's an interference design, you've probably got engine damage from the valves being open at the wrong time and being struck by the pistons. To find out which type you have, you need to figure out which engine you have. Search for 'gm VIN decoder' and enter your VIN. Once you know the specific ...
4
Both the other answers cover bleeding well, however if you didn't open the hydraulic system (other than the master cylinder cap) then I doubt it's air in the line. My answer assumes a couple of things, you replaced the front pads and you did not turn (resurface) the rotors.
During normal brake operation the rotors don't wear evenly, they may be thinner on ...
3
You most likely have air in the system, I had the same issue with my 99 Blazer. It seemed as no matter how much I bled it it I couldn't get rid of it.
Raise the front of the vehicle make sure that the right side is a bit higher than the left. This will ensure that the highest point in the system is the radiator cap.
Remove the radiator cap and start the ...
3
Shift out of and back into park a few times, and try to wiggle the shifter around park while you try to turn the key out. This would be the 'usual' reason the key would be stuck in.
Next, try moving the steering wheel slightly, while again trying to back out the key.
If that's not it, is there a button you need to press to release the key? If so, push it ...
3
Some towing packages include beefed up suspension and brakes as well as additional cooling.
You may be better off upgrading to a Traverse with the factory towing package than trying to retro fit your vehicle.
There's also the issue of warranty servicing, which probably won't be covered since you're exceeding the recommendations
3
you need to check the speed rating and load rating of the tyre, normally indicated by something like 91W or 91W...95W etc. If the cars are drastically different in terms of speed and weight and are also an important factor.
In the event of an accident if you dont have the correctly rated tyres (as specified by the manufacturer) insurers will use that as ...
2
Check your fluid level. If it is abnormally low, you may have a leak. Also, if the reservoir is completely empty, you may have to follow special procedures to bleed your master cylinder and/or ABS pump.
You will want to bleed your brake system until you have completely replaced the old fluid with new fluid. If you routinely bleed and maintain your ...
2
Bleeding the brake will remove air in your brakes line. If you only replace the pads without disconnecting any brake lines, no air should have entered the system.
BUT, since you have played with your brakes, and with the symptoms you have, you should bleed the brakes to remove any air. Air in the brake line can make the pedal softer and can also prevent you ...
2
I am a GM mechanic with 25 years experience working on GM vehicles . I recently road tested a 2011 Chevrolet Cruze with a clicking noise from the right rear while braking . After having the rear drums off a couple of times, I found that the Gray grease installed at the factory on the rear backing plates had been missed in a couple of spots. The grease was a ...
2
Returned from dealer - this was their report:
"clicking" noise from the R/R of the vehicle when slowing down. The technician road tested the vehicle and verified the concern. Found the rear brake shoes grabbing the drum causing minor grooves in the drum, also the technician found some grease on the backing plate. Cleaned off the grease and cleaned the brake ...
2
I finally figured out what the problem is here. GM apparently has put in a "PassLock" system that reads something to do with the key on startup. If anything goes wrong (invalid key, electrical problems, etc) the fuel system is disabled for 10 minutes. Just thought I would let everyone know in case this problem comes up again. I have not actually fixed the ...
2
The most likely causes are a freon leak or a broken drive belt. Frequently the leak is from an "O" ring on the back of the compressor. You can buy recharge kits at auto supply stores that are designed for the DIYers. My experience has been that if you are not familiar with the system it might not be cost effective. It will usually take two and sometimes ...
2
I would imagine there is a mechanical linkage attached to the axle and bodywork with a sensor to measure the angle between them. Chances are, as you suggest, either it has got stuck or damaged, or something is wedged in it stopping it from moving correctly. Can you get under the back of the vehicle? If so, you may be able to identify the mechanism and there ...
2
2 miles isn't enough for some cars to heat up, is this the first time this has happened?
First, check your coolant level, cold and hot. If it's good, You likely need a new thermostat, the piece that controls the flow of coolant to the radiator. If that doesn't fix it, then check the heater valve as FossilizedCarlos mentioned.
2
There are two filaments inside a turn signal bulb. One of them is dim for the park lights, the other is bright for the turn signal. The bright filament can break on one end and land on the dim filament. Anytime the parking lights are on it makes both filaments light. The turn signal can still function depending on where the break in the filament is. This ...
2
It turns out the problem is pretty common with 3.5L Impalas. For some reason these engines loose coolant. Some blame is placed on headgaskets, some blame Dex-Cool. What ever the cause, refilling via the overflow jug can leave an air pocket in the cooling system. The cure is to fill via the pressure cap right to the top. Recheck the level after several ...
2
It could be a number of things. A broken alternator belt would allow the engine to run until the battery gets so low it can't power the needed systems such as fuel pump,ignition, computers etc. At this point it would stop. You need to tell us what you have checked, what you are capable of checking and any visual clues such as the belts are in place, the ...
1
Sounds like it isn't getting fuel - maybe a bad injector pump? - maybe bad injectors? - maybe the solenoid that controls the fuel on / off is stuck? - cant be 100% sure of anything but diesels do usually run unless they don't get any fuel.. (or if the compression is so low that it cant make the diesel explode...)
1
I have also seen it from putting the wrong bulb in the socket - often done by another shop or parts store even. Of you've had one replaced, pull out the bulb and look at the bottom. Make sure there are the same number of 'nipples' on the bottom of the bulb as there are in the bottom of the socket.
When i worked as a mechanic, it was a very common problem i ...
1
Sounds like you've got a little bit of air in your cooling system from when you replaced the radiator. It's not a huge problem, what you're hearing is just bubbles/air/water running through the heater core.
The method for getting air out of your cooling system is to place your Blazer on level ground or with the front just slightly elevated and run the ...
1
It could be any part of the driveline. A dry U joint may be binding. Have you noticed a squeek at very low speeds or when shifting from forward to reverse? Most differentials are pretty robust. If the differential came with posi-traction a fluid change may ease some of the symptoms. I believe these differentials didnot come with a drain you have to remove ...
1
Yes, we could end up with a list of quesses that would be very long. You really need to provide more information here. Was the engine light coming on at any point? Sounds like you may have multiple problems here.
The two weeks of not running right is interesting. That almost sounds like fuel pump or clogged fuel filter issues. Have you checked into ...
1
Possible stuck thermostat. The "normal" indication on factory temperature gauges cover a huge range. My Eclipse has a factory gauge and an aftermarket gauge. The factory gauge settles in at "normal" for a 160-200 degree range (normal temp is 185). At 160 the car barely makes any heat in the cabin, at 185 it's got decent heat, and at 200 it can light your ...
1
I've got a mitsubishi, so it's a different car, but there is a motor that opens and closes the heater door. It's going out, so sometimes I can hear it click and either engage/disengage when I turn the heat dial, so it's an erratic problem. Could be something similar on your car.
Right now it's not engaging, so it's blowing cold air, even though the heater ...
1
Check the coolant level and antifreeze concentration. Anything above 50/50 can make the engine run hot because the more antifreeze the less heat absorbtion. Make sure the fan shroud is in place. Taking out the thermostat can make the engine run hot because the coolant flows thru the radiator so fast it can't disapate the heat. Warm the engine up with the ...
1
It could be the fuel pump, especially if the pressure is low. However it could also be that the fuel filter is clogged. It might be about time to replace the fuel filter anyway, I would go ahead and do that no matter what assuming it is easy to get to. (Sometimes they are hidden above the fuel tank and a pain to reach.)
If the starter is turning and you ...
1
This sounds like it could be brake pad material on the disk.
If you brake from a fairly high speed down to a stop (e.g., highway speed down to a red light) where you have to sit, foot on brake for a significant period of time, you're holding the brake pad up against the hot disk. That pad material is sticky (on purpose - you want to slow down, right?) and, ...
1
The check engine light and rear wheel clicking are not likely related. Buy a code reader, or take the car somewhere the next time the check engine light comes on. Pulling the code will give you a much better idea as to what the problem is.
For the clicking, you could jack the back up and rotate the wheels while listening for noise. Maybe then do the same ...
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible
