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Just an FYI........ I have an '02 Trailblazer with 320k miles on it. Have NEVER changed the tran fluid or filter. Have no problems whatsoever shifting or towing, even uphill! It will manually downshift as good as the day I bought it. The tran fluid looks like old,used motor oil. Sometimes it seems best not to mess with stuff until it breaks.


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You can try and get the transmission flushed and might get a few more thousand miles out of it, but from the sounds of it, your tranny is toast. It will either need a rebuild or a swapped out for a new/rebuilt one. What is happening is the soft parts of the transmission (bands/clutches) are worn out. They no longer have any grip to give you the momentum. ...


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The sound you are hearing is most likely the bearings going (gone) bad in the alternator. As @resident_heretic suggested, removing the belt and checking the alternator by hand is a good suggestion. You can also isolate the sound by using an automotive stethoscope (can be bought at Harbor Freight for $5). Even if you don't have that, you can isolate the ...


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Judging by noise alone.... Could be a belt tensioner pulley or the alternator fan (the little metal thing on the front of the alternator with fins) scraping on something. One way to test is to remove the belt and turn the alternator manually. It could also the belt itself. Hard to be sure just by sound alone.


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Check your coolant level. A P0128 is an insufficient coolant temperature code. If the the coolant level is OK, replace the thermostat. The P0856 code is for the up shift down shift command for the buttons on the shift lever. This will not illuminate the check engine light. If the buttons work as normal this was an intermittent issue. There may be a ground ...


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Brake (at least on my old Ford system) is just the emergency brake. If I were to guess it's more than likely a separate, unrelated issue. I would look into the E brake sensor, see if the E brake is sticking and/or see if there's slack in the E brake line. Did you find out which of the sensors/wiring harnesses is bad (ABS issue)?


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Get your ABS system checked. If you want to start the procedure yourself: Jack one corner of your car up and place it on a jackstand. Remove the wheel. Look for the electrical connector of that wheel and inspect it. Disconnect it and perform an electrical test on it. First, measure the AC voltage the sensor produces when you are turning the wheel by hand (...


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Looks like it is your front wheel speed sensors. There is nothing you can repair, they have to be replaced, they are responsible for your ABS and maybe traction control (if you have). You can drive like this, it is not harmful to your car, but ABS won't work. The sensor usually is not being damaged (if not physically hammered), usually it is wire which is ...


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This has happened to me with a defective ABS sensor (front, passenger). I mistakenly gouged it while changing the wheel bearing which caused it to intermittently give false signals at lower speeds (ABS ring turning slowly = sensor misinterpreting it as stopped?). Typically faulty sensors will throw the ABS warning light, which mine eventually did.


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It could also be a defective strut or shock absorber. I am having the exact same issue myself presently. When a strut is empty of fluid and gas there is no dampening effect and you are bouncing on your springs. This effect is also noticed when braking at low speeds as well as when turning. When braking with dead struts your tires have intermittent contact ...


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Brake pedal pulsing is most likely ABS engaging. To disable ABS, remove the fuse for it in the fuse box that is under the hood. Do have a shop look at your ABS system if the light has been coming on. Erratic brakes are not something you would want.


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I believe this is due to a warped rotor. The pulsing will be due to raised areas on the rotor pushing back against the brake pads.


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If you suspect the loose rocks may have caused this: check the air intake for cracks and leaks (leaning out the mixture too much) look at the steel fuel lines for kinks (poor fuel delivery) inspect the exhaust for kinks (too much back pressure) If you don't think the rocks did this, you should do a compression test and take it from there.


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Engine overheating is not related with A/C misoperation. Engine overheating while idle: Bad timing Low cooling liquid level Dirty radiator (outside but also inside) Radiator fan malfunction Air in the engine cooling system (it WILL overheat the engine and very fast) Low oil level I would: drain all cooling liquid from engine by uncorking the radiator'...


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A few things spring to mind: confirm radiator fan operation (per user3188168's suggestion) The fans are vital in ensuring air flow across the both radiator and A/C condenser when the car is stationary or moving slowly. A few things could cause them to not run: blown fuse(s) bad relays wiring open lack of command for the fans to turn on from the ECU (...


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The tail lights on this car look like: (image source) The outer assembly is the one on the quarter panel: The inner assembly is the one on the trunk: I'm 99% sure of this, but note that it is the result of a bunch of Google searching, and generic product pictures on parts sites make finding a clear image confusing. If somebody could confirm this ...


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There is no brake booster with the engine off, there is with the engine on, so it is normal to get more pedal travel with the engine on, but not all the way to the floor. Start with this: Check your brake fluid level, it may be too low Check your braking lines for leaks. Most common leak point is at joints between the steel lines and the rubber lines, as ...


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tl dr: As long as you replace it with an LSx based engine and 4L60e transmission, you will have absolutely no fitment issues with the transfer case and retaining your 4x4. Only the internals of the engine would change. Externally the engine will remain exactly the same. You're going to need a new block to do this, however. The LM7 engine (most common in ...


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For some reason the site won't let me add comments . I have a firend that had a similar problem with his 06 it turned out to be the control module that turns off the battery if the door is left open he ended up putting a switch on the battery, opening the switch and closing reset the system. This was easier than pulling the battery cable and cheaper than ...


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if it is since you have replaced a hub and bearings, on the same wheel, then all you can do is to get the wheel off and look for a reason. Maybe a new hub wheel studs touches something. Looking now for your hub in Google, and looks like it might be the bolt that holds the hub (3 bolts, red arrow) touching one of a wheel stud (green arrow). Or just any other ...


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Verify that you actually have speakers in the car. If the previous owner upgraded the speakers, he may have removed them before selling you the car. Make sure the speakers are connected. You pulled the stereo to verify there are speaker wires plugged into the back of it, check the other end. Check the settings on the stereo (balance and fade): the stereo may ...


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Step 1) check your oil. If there is water that will be an indication of an intake gasket or head gasket. I'll update this after you've relied with that. :) Thanks for your service! :D and welcome!


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Too lean = too little fuel. I would probably try the fuel injector cleaning (Techron or comparable product) first and see if that clears up the issue. Next try swapping the fuel filter since this is usually a pretty simple/inexpensive repair. (Sorry, can't comment with current reputation)


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Looking at the two different types of timing sets, one for the balance shaft design and one with the regular design. I've not dealt directly with the balance shaft, but I'm not seeing a huge difference between the two sets. With that in mind, the 4.3L V6 is basically a small block chevy (SBC) 350 V8 with two cylinders lopped off. I believe regular timing ...


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The conventional heater on your car is basically a small radiator inside the cabin and a fan. So yes, in the event of an engine heating more than it should turning the heater temperature and fan speed to the max with the windows open will help it cool down slightly. The effectiveness of this probably depends on the specific car model - or more specifically ...


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I think this should help. I note that it is a very specific sequence and three-stage endeavor -- which makes me suspect that it should probably be followed:


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Usually it's the front brakes that heat up as this is where most braking resistance comes from. Could be a handbrake issue though. If your handbrake did not release completely it could apply a small amount of force, too little for you to notice but enough to heat up the disks.


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Have him change the fuel filter. These get dirty and need changing. Very easy and cheap if it's external. Some are inside the tank. A dirty filter can restrict fuel flow. If you have high miles this could be the problem


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Start the truck pour a half cup of Marvel Mystery Oil right down the carburator a little at a time. Do not let the truck stall. It will smoke a good rate. Once that smoke clears a bit take it for a nice ride. Old school mechanics.


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A Chev 622ci = 10.2l I found dimensions for a Chev 632 cubic inch =10.3l Stroke: 4.750" Rods: 6.635" Bore: 4.600" Taken from here: http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint-Engines/Blueprint-Pro-Series-Big-Block-Chevy-632ci-815HP-800TQ/1321871/10002/-1 The horsepower output you're talking about would require forced induction. So turbocharged or supercharged. ...


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The best way I'm aware of to cure this is to get zinc coated rotors. While the zinc in the wear areas (where the brake is applied) wears off quickly, all the rest of the brake remains coated in zinc and doesn't rust. This leaves it semi-shiney all the time. I had them on my 1994 Z28 which had the C6 Z06 wheels on it and shows quite a bit of the brake disk. ...


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(I have used this answer on several questions for chevy truck brake issues) I have a 97 suburban, so I believe things are very similar. I too have replaced lines on this truck and spent hours of time and over a gallon of fluid trying to get it bled correctly. A couple things that I've learned and have helped. Bench bleed the master. Remove the lines, ...


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If bleeding the brakes as normal isn't working you need a scantool with bi directional controls. And do an automated bleed or have the ABS module pulse the bypass modulator valve. This is required on Chevy trucks when replacing the ABS, the master cylinder or when the master cylinder goes empty.



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