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A Chev 622ci = 10.2l I found dimensions for a Chev 632 cubic inch =10.3l Stroke: 4.750" Rods: 6.635" Bore: 4.600" Taken from here: http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint-Engines/Blueprint-Pro-Series-Big-Block-Chevy-632ci-815HP-800TQ/1321871/10002/-1 The horsepower output you're talking about would require forced induction. So turbocharged or supercharged. ...


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The best way I'm aware of to cure this is to get zinc coated rotors. While the zinc in the wear areas (where the brake is applied) wears off quickly, all the rest of the brake remains coated in zinc and doesn't rust. This leaves it semi-shiney all the time. I had them on my 1994 Z28 which had the C6 Z06 wheels on it and shows quite a bit of the brake disk. ...


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(I have used this answer on several questions for chevy truck brake issues) I have a 97 suburban, so I believe things are very similar. I too have replaced lines on this truck and spent hours of time and over a gallon of fluid trying to get it bled correctly. A couple things that I've learned and have helped. Bench bleed the master. Remove the lines, ...


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If bleeding the brakes as normal isn't working you need a scantool with bi directional controls. And do an automated bleed or have the ABS module pulse the bypass modulator valve. This is required on Chevy trucks when replacing the ABS, the master cylinder or when the master cylinder goes empty.


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Some cars allow the air bubble to run out naturally, but it is rare, so you'll need an assistant. Basically you need to apply a pressure on a brake pedal, better if you press it a few times so it becomes harder. Then you need to hold a pedal down and undo the nipple using a 7 or 8 mm spanner. Usually 1/2 of a turn is enough. The nipple is located at the top ...


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If you have a blown headgasket, it won't last long - a few miles at most. Keep going too long as the engine will overheat and sieze up, and then you'll need a new engine. I'd suggest you get a few more quotes - You don't state where you are in the world, but the gaskets themselves are cheap, and it shouldn't need much more than half a day's labour - around ...


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I would try to lubricate the door lock mechanism and linkages. You probably have to remove the inner door panel to get to it all. Also, lube the actual lock with tri flow or a dry ptfe type lube.


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The easiest thing to check is the ignition coil: disconnect it and measure its resistance with a multimeter. You'll want to check your car's manual for exact values, but in general dead coils will have infinite resistance on the secondary winding. If the coil is OK, you'll have to do a full-blown spark test. Note that having a spark plug tester or a set of ...


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If the float was sticking you would see black smoke when it stumbles and would clear up when its pinned.You're right with the acc. pump, would be a consistent flat-spot, but check for a steady stream anyway.All little things add up, so if points, plugs and ignition leads are not 100%, start there.


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It can be many things I mean, way many things, as SteveRacer has already cited. The most common (but not unique) is a failing catalytic converter. Please note that often a bad catalytic converter usually is a symptom of a problem, not a cause. If you replace it without solving the source problem, it will fail again in very short time. If this is the case ...


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P0420 is probably the most common code seen. It refers to "Catalytic Converter Efficiency" Basically, it Engine Control Module (ECU) monitors the chemical constituents of the exhaust, both before and after the catalytic converter. The Catalyst is really a small furnace that reburns the exhaust and adds more oxygen where necessary, to eliminate harmful ...


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went back and they bled the brakes again after telling me they were good twice and now they work like they did before the master cylinder went bad. Problem solved.


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There's air in the lines from the sounds of it, likely from them not correctly bleeding the system. An air bubble in the system will compress before the rest of the fluid in the lines, thus not actuating the brake callipers. If you don't have the tools to bleed your brakes at home, you should take it back to the workshop and get them to asap.


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I found the problem. Apparently it was a long piece of paper carried into fan assembly by a mouse. After running for a while paper must be choking the fan and thus stopping the air flow. Thanks everybody.


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It could be a clogged fuel filter, or a temperature sensor that has failed making the Air/Fuel Ratio too lean for restart on a "hot" engine.


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You may want to jack it up and check the brakes and look to see if the fluid is coming from the brakes. It would be on the tire or the wheel on the inside. Look it over and try to pinpoint the origin of the fluid leak first. While it is up, check for any looseness by moving the tire left - right and up-down. You could have a bad caliper, bad wheel bearing ...


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OK so this is pretty specific and I had to look through 4 pages of u-joints after narrowing down by engine/transmission and body style. Yet there were even more options. I'm making assumptions at this point, as quadrasteer isn't that common and since you said you have a short bed, you should have a 1 piece aluminum drive shaft. This would probably be easier ...


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Check the grounds and fuses battery could be junk jump the starter from the battery to the starter and if it works change the fuse



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