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have you checked the Throttle Position Sensor, MAS Air Flow Sensor, have you cleaned your Throttle Body Unit ?, have you checked & cleaned your EGR Valve,


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Assuming the car actually cranks over. Before you throw more parts at your car you need to confirm spark and fuel. Is the check engine light on? Since you already replaced the ignition components you need to confirm spark when cranking. You can use an old spark plug and a lead wire to ground the electrode. If you depress the schrader valve on the fuel ...


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Given that the fan works fine, just that cold air isn't blowing, there are two things that spring to mind. You're out of refrigerant Your compressor has gone bad Refrigerant leaks even if you have a sealed system. This is normal, don't freak out. You should get it refilled with refrigerant if this is the case. You can check this is the case by looking ...


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Try this, put the key in and leave it in the run position for half an hour. This should learn the key to the anti theft system. You may also want to hook up a battery charger. If that fails a scan tool will be required.


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It sounds like the RF receiver of the central locking system is faulty. It was not the problem with the Car Battery or the remote battery. Take it to the service station and get it repaired.


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Turns out the problem was the key security system. Apparently the switched voltage reset the key security, which caused my key to not be recognized by the car. After getting the security reprogrammed to accept my key, the car works as usual.


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Thanks for all the time and input guys! Sorry, I only just realized I hadn't posted the solution. The pump he purchased (which did not directly interface with the electrical harness on the truck) came with a harness to splice into the trucks electrical lines (which it turns out we had done correctly), and another intermediary harness to be used between ...


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According to this article (and my knowledge, lol) the stock rocker arm ratio of most stock small block Chevy's is 1.5:1. Polylocks should work just fine. Whether you need the guide plates is completely up to what type of roller-rockers you get. If they are non-self aligning (NSA), you'll need the guide plates. If they are self aligning, you won't. My ...


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How much should I use? As much as you need to get it back up to operating level if you plan on driving it any more. If you don't get it up to the proper level, you'll be burning your soft parts up (clutches/bands) and risking the more expensive hard parts (planetaries, sun shell, sprag). Would the take care of the problem or am I looking at a more ...


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This is the best picture i could find. Align the marks of the balance shaft gears. then install the big gear and chain. While installing align the marks on the big gear and crank shaft. PS this is a timing chain not belt.


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Was the engine running before you disassembled it, yes or no? Most of 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4 16 valve small engines ARE interference. If after you assembled it and you missed on the timing and cranked the engine with just one of the camshafts out of timing you ruined the head. Do a compression test. You can rent or borrow the tool.


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You need to jump start your car. Pop the hood. You'll see something like this: Inside the green circle is the positive jump point. Connect the red jumper cable clamp there first. Find an unpainted ground spot and attach your negative clamp there. Once connected to the donor car, you'll have power to do what you need ... either start the car, or pop the ...


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You say the chain jumped timing. Was the car running when you disassembled it? Or did you have a tow truck bring it in? If you were stranded you may have damaged cylinder head valves. Do a compression test.


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There is much to be said here; You first should have done an electrical connection probe test to know if your fuel pump is operating, your sparks are sparking, your coil is sparking, your injectors are igniting, your distributor components are working, == the vehicle timing is correct, your starter is kicking, your Fuel Injection Main Relay, Coolant ...


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By changing the flow of electricity through the magnetic fluid in the dampers, the viscosity of the fluid is changed. As the viscosity is changed, it becomes harder or easier for the suspension to be compressed, thereby allowing the suspension characteristics to be changed. Because this is controlled with an electric current, it can be changed hundreds of ...


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Check all the pulleys and accessories to see if any are loose and can be wiggled back and forth. I got a '93 Chev truck that gave me some belt trouble. There is a flat mounting plate on the front of the engine that the power steering pump attached to. It was cracked and had some bolts out. Same could happen with any of the driven accessories if they have any ...


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I'm not sure which pulley you're talking about, but would assume it's one of two: idler or tensioner. This is the pulley system of the 97 Lumina (should be the same for the 3.1 or 3.4 engine): Since this setup doesn't have an idler pulley, it would most likely be the tensioner pulley which is not aligning (if not the tensioner, please tell me which one ...


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It's possible that the brake booster line was disconnected during your work. Check the brake booster valve and hose and ensure they are connected/functioning. The valve for the brake booster is where the line attaches too in the brake booster. Image of brake booster line, valve and booster


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I'm using the OP's comment to answer the question as there is no way anyone on here could have figured this out without being able to see the issue or having done it themselves: Just an update for anyone that might ever come across this and say that is my exact problem my shock extender for my level kit were installed backwards which was coming in ...



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