New answers tagged chevrolet
I believe there are two circuits which can run the vehicle: one when starting; one when running. IIRC, the starting circuit provides full voltage to the coil which gives a bit more juice for extra power when starting. As soon as you allow the key to go back from start to run, this circuit is disconnected. This leaves the run circuit. If you don't have power ...
I'm not sure that the valve you have pictured is the PCV valve. A PCV valve traditionally is a connection between the intake manifold and the crank case. The line pictured, from the crank case to the air filter, is most likely a fresh air intake or breather line. But i think your on the right track to look for the PCV valve. A poorly working PCV system can ...
Mechanic changed out the spark plug wires. This stopped the jerking and revving. The engine light came back in after I drove it 20 miles. I requested a smoke test, but I was told that it wasn't necessary. At this point, I'm just going to handle this myself.
Well, I got it running! Just want to post an answer for anybody else that runs across this issue. It ended up being the Fuel Pressure Regulator on the CPI Injector Spider. This is a small and cheap ($35.00) part that is mounted on the side injector. and was very straightforward to replace. I simply had to remove the upper intake manifold, and all the ...
May I ask why you reported this question? You could have easily updated your previous question with the new details instead of posting the same question again? Anyway as I was saying in my answer, I think it could be an issue with your gas pedal rheostat, if your car uses a DBW system: I'm betting your Corsa is Drive-By-Wire (DBW), meaning, there isn't a ...
I'm betting your Corsa is Drive-By-Wire (DBW), meaning, there isn't a direct connection between you and the throttle. If so, the gas pedal rheostat is probably telling the computer you are pressing it, causing the throttle to go up and in some cases not respond at all. You could possibly test the gas pedal by unplugging it and checking for even/smooth ...
My money is on a bad earth that's killing the low tension side of the coil when the fan gets power. Check the wiring security and for breaks in the wiring insulation. Also check that the earth points look healthy.
There appears to be a similar case on the Cobalt forum, where compression test figures are reported to be around 220 psi, roughly double what you're reporting. If this is the case for your vehicle, it would seem that the problem is related to a lack of compression and not fuel, air or spark.
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