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There is probably one of several things wrong with your S10. I think @Hash_Brown is on the right track. First, it might be an exhaust leak. It's amazing how the puffing of exhaust coming out where it's not supposed to sounds like a "tick". This can also cause a lean bank check engine code to appear. This is because it will actually draw air in as well as ...


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Idle Air Control valve seems a very likely candidate. Search for a programme called Torque Pro for your smart phone. With an Elm 327 off of eBay, you will have a very good way to obtain fault codes from your vehicle at very modest cost. The fault codes will point you in the direction to remedy any faults involving the engine emissions(OBD2).


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On a lean mixture under acceleration you are describing a noise known generally as 'pinking' - clicking as in rattling. You need to check the vehicle for an air leak, (maybe a vacuum hose come off), oxygen sensor on bank 2 not working, or a knock sensor having failed. I would second place the MAF as this would produce codes to the effect of 'engine running ...


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Yes, what you are describing is exactly what it sounds like is happening. Tires which are not rotated on a regular basis will complain loudly because of wear patterns, especially the front end ones on front wheel drive vehicles. If those are original tires, I would bet they are getting close to being worn out. Tires which are getting down in tread depth will ...


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Rotated or swopped back to front? Check on the tyres side wall for the word 'Rotation'. There will also be an arrow or indicater for the direction of rotation when driving forward. They must be on the correct side of the vehicle and rotating in a forward direction. The age of your tyres can be found by reading the DOT code on the tyre wall. You will see the ...


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There are a few things you can do: 1st, change the rear end gears. Your car may have 3.08:1 rear end gears (RPO Code: GU4) in it. If so, you can easily find some 2.73:1 gears (or complete rear end) for cheap. This will effectively lower the engine speed while in transit down the highway by around 12%. This will have a side effect of giving you a little less ...


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The answers you have had so far only go to show just how important a scan by an experianced mechanic is. The scanner will show if a cylinder is misfiring, or a particular cylinder is not firing - misfire count feature. The injectors can be seen to be firing and their operation on acceleration - opening durations and fuel pressures. You can do a balance test ...


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So, after trying to tune up just about everything and replacing all potential suspect parts, it turns out that the fuel pump is dying.


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We solved the issue today. It came down to a sneaky leak in the back brake lines. We fixed that and then had to bleed the breaks a ridiculous amount. After bleeding the back brakes about 10-15 times each the brakes no longer went to the floor (and fixing the sneaky leak of course).


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Unfortunately, there aren't any terrific ways of testing these things with a meter because of the internal electronics. In addition, at least one measurement you make might (will probably) be polarity-sensitive, especially if you use the "diode check" function on your multimeter - that's the A-D reading. Using "diode check", reading one way your meter should ...


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That to me sounds like your master cylinder has failed as the first poster pointed out. The master cylinder will keep the brakes up once it is functioning the way it should, the minute there is any change in the feel, it is either the booster (harder feel) or Master Cylinder (softer feel or dropped brake pedal). Also, brake pedals tend to go to the floor ...


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That sounds very much (no, it sounds exactly) like either of two things: either the brake fluid in the master cylinder is very low, or the master cylinder has failed. If anything else were the cause (caliper or wheel cylinder failure, line leakage), then you'd find brake fluid either on the ground or on the inboard surface of one of your tires.


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This is a common issue. Sometimes the door actuator needs to be reset, as it gets confused. When I had this problem in my Avalanche, I found that turning the temperature all the way to the 90 degree max setting (when set to equal cooling for both sides), waiting a few seconds for the door to stop moving, and then turning the temp back down, would resolve the ...


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I've replaced the the vacuum lines (all but one) and it does it very minimally in the mornings. I haven't replaced the one yet because it is protected by a plastic sleeve so it looks like it'll be a pain in the rear to change. It's not 100% fixed yet, but 90% of the issues have gone away by changing the vacuum lines which only costed about $7.50 for all the ...


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The first thing to do is too take the EGR out of circuit. A quick and easy way to do this is to cut an old metal oil can(its thin enough for scissors) so you have a piece of the can that will fit between the bolts of the EGR. Tighten the EGR bolts up with the can acting as a gasket. Now try watching the MAF sensor voltage as you rev the engine sharply and ...



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