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11

If you lost all (or almost all) of your brake fluid, you have a leak. Check all of your calipers (assuming disk brakes all around) to see if there is a leak at the wheels. If none there, check the soft lines (rubber lines at the wheel) for leaks. If no leaks there, check around the master cylinder and anti-lock brake unit for leaks from the lines. If you do ...


6

Yes, it will. However, your biggest concern is going to be getting enough air flowing over it. Do yourself a favour and go look at the engine bay of a 200x model Subary Impreza WRX. The intercooler is mounted flat on the top of the engine and the characteristic scoop forces air onto it to cool the intake air. The same type of thing might work for your ...


6

As R.. says, the remaining softness will be down to air in the lines - this can be fixed by properly bleeding the system. Before you do that, however, you need to establish the cause of the loss - until you do so, the car should be regarded as dangerous and must not be used. If you're in any doubt, take it to a professional. The most likely cause of a ...


5

This is a 1967 Camaro which Chip Foose rebuilt on an episode of Overhaulin'. The sign in the background is the clue. EDIT: I guess I could tell you how to tell this is a '67 with or without knowing Chip Foose did this build :-) If you know anything about Camaros, you can tell this is a 1st gen by its angular cuts. The 2nd gens are not angular and are a lot ...


5

Does it make the most sense to replace an old car's entire exhaust system all at once? Considering your car is almost 10 years old, having to replace all of the parts in the exhaust system does not sound unreasonable, especially if your locality uses any type of road solvent during the winter months (they didn't in Montana where I'm from originally, ...


3

If no leakage from the radiator and the A/C (if so equipped) is still working, there shouldn't be an issue. I would advise you to pull out any broke broken pieces of grill as well as dead bird, to include feathers. The can get trapped in the radiator and reduce cooling efficiency. Get the grill portion replaced as soon as possible to help prevent some other ...


3

Yes, this is a 1967 model as my grand father had the same model that I had seen in the photo album of our family members.


3

The bulb modules could actually be bad, despite both filaments coming on in high beam mode. Pull the connector at each bulb, there will be three wires: tan, green and black. The black is ground, tan is low and green is high. Make sure there is power on the tan wire when the headlights are on and the high/low switch is set to low. If the tan wire is hot, ...


3

Yes, you can replace the bulbs, but it's not the easiest thing to do. You need to have patience and a soldering iron. Many people take this time to replace the bulbs with LED bulbs, in a color of their choice. It's also recommended that you replace all of the bulbs at the same time to alleviate having to tear it all apart again in the near future for the ...


3

The bigger question here is, what are you actually gaining? The dimensions of the Envoy radiator is only marginally bigger than the current one. Your question, "Will it work?" is rather irrelevant. The pertinent question here should be, "Will it work better?" ... The answer to this is most probably No. You need to find another radiator which is the same ...


3

The first thing to do is too take the EGR out of circuit. A quick and easy way to do this is to cut an old metal oil can(its thin enough for scissors) so you have a piece of the can that will fit between the bolts of the EGR. Tighten the EGR bolts up with the can acting as a gasket. Now try watching the MAF sensor voltage as you rev the engine sharply and ...


3

I think the problem is your original transmission was having a synchro issue at the 5th gear, which migrated to the 3rd gear synchro. When I say "migrated" I mean that it too is worn out, not that there is an "infection which is spreading". I would venture to assume your new-to-you transmission suffers from the same fate. If you bought the transmission new ...


2

I agree with the other posts. First: Do not drive the car until this is fixed. You will NOT save money by wrecking your car and maybe putting yourself in the hospital. Second: if you're going to do the work yourself, get a how-to manual. Brakes (and steering) are safety-critical systems; if they fail they put both you and those around you in danger. ...


2

You have to replace the module or switch that has the lights out. On the older body style chevys you were able to replace just the bulbs but not anymore.


2

Yes it is normal. Not to get into details but there is no direct link between your OnStar RemoteLink app and your car. Here is how it works: Your applications calls a server at GM and places a request ( for example check battery status ). The server makes a series of queries in order to make to establish connection with a car. It could be sending sms or ...


2

What you are looking for is an "all-in-one" or "combo" brake drum hardware kit. You can pick these up from most of the major parts stores. Here is an example from RockAuto.com with it's corresponding picture: This should be enough for one axle. I'm not sure if front/back are the same, but I believe so. You can get the other bits and pieces (ie: self ...


2

The connector for it is #8 so it puts it at the front drivers side of the engine if I'm looking at this diagram correctly.


2

This is a common issue. Sometimes the door actuator needs to be reset, as it gets confused. When I had this problem in my Avalanche, I found that turning the temperature all the way to the 90 degree max setting (when set to equal cooling for both sides), waiting a few seconds for the door to stop moving, and then turning the temp back down, would resolve the ...


2

That sounds very much (no, it sounds exactly) like either of two things: either the brake fluid in the master cylinder is very low, or the master cylinder has failed. If anything else were the cause (caliper or wheel cylinder failure, line leakage), then you'd find brake fluid either on the ground or on the inboard surface of one of your tires.


2

Yes, what you are describing is exactly what it sounds like is happening. Tires which are not rotated on a regular basis will complain loudly because of wear patterns, especially the front end ones on front wheel drive vehicles. If those are original tires, I would bet they are getting close to being worn out. Tires which are getting down in tread depth will ...


2

Could this really be a manufacturing defect? Could this be a defect in the part which was put on your car? Possibly, but not probable. When cars are put together they are put through a lot of different tests to ensure parts are put on correctly and are done correctly. Union people tend to take pride in their work ... at least lately they seem to be. I ...


2

Don't worry about the motor, worry about the ignition system. I take it you must be using an HEI distributor in the vehicle to warrant a .060" gap. Be aware that GM reduced this to .045" gap due to longevity issues. If it's not an HEI, I believe the .035" is correct. If you are running the same ignition you were using before the swap, gap it as you had it ...


1

You need specialized equipment to break the encryption. The equipment will cost more than simply taking it to a dealer or remote and alarm specialist and having them do it. It's not an overly complicated job, but the equipment makes it infeasible.


1

This sounds like one (or both) of your u-joints is (are) bad. If the u-joint has dried out and the needle bearings are dry, when they rotate as they are supposed to, they bind/release causing a pinging noise like you are describing (it reverberates through the hollow drive shaft). The reason you only hear it at lower speeds is because the road noise covers ...


1

You will need to inspect your driveshaft for security from front to rear, bolts, joints, brackets and for any damage. Are you sure the pinging is from your driveshaft? Pinging is normally associated with engine pinking, especially when accelerating from a low speed.


1

As highlighted in the question comments, the culprit was the vibration damper on the crank pulley that had failed, causing the pulley center and outer ring to have some limited slip relative to one another. I'm happy to say that the following symptoms were resolved. With the A/C disengaged, the crank pulley was spinning at a limited speed. This was also ...


1

The purpose of the resistance in the plug wires is there so that the (1) plug firing voltage is great enough to maintain a sufficent spark firing time and (2) the resistance suppresses interferance with electronic equipment and radios. Spark plug wires are easily broken internally when being removed from the plug, as they can become attached to the spark ...


1

I had a similar problem awhile back---'97 Chevy Blazer---misfiring on take off (accelerating in first gear), and as it turned out, the rubber boot on my PCV (pressure control valve) had deteriorated. ...I'd just had an oil change a couple days prior, and it looked like the tech who did the work broke the boot, then ELECTRICAL TAPED it back together. ..yeah, ...


1

The dealership should be able to make the key from the VIN. Since you do not have a registered key already, you will not be able to program it yourself. The vehicle will have to be somewhere it can be reprogrammed with the new key(s). You can call a lock smith to come out and reprogram the car, but chances are it's going to be just as expensive as having it ...


1

It turned out to be both the alternator and the battery. The mechanic I went to replaced them both and so far the car has been OK. I did not have a multimeter handy and the car would not shift out of park or stay jump started, so I had to have it towed to a nearby auto repair shop to have this done. Thanks Paulster2.



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