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5

This is a 1967 Camaro which Chip Foose rebuilt on an episode of Overhaulin'. The sign in the background is the clue. EDIT: I guess I could tell you how to tell this is a '67 with or without knowing Chip Foose did this build :-) If you know anything about Camaros, you can tell this is a 1st gen by its angular cuts. The 2nd gens are not angular and are a lot ...


5

Does it make the most sense to replace an old car's entire exhaust system all at once? Considering your car is almost 10 years old, having to replace all of the parts in the exhaust system does not sound unreasonable, especially if your locality uses any type of road solvent during the winter months (they didn't in Montana where I'm from originally, ...


3

The bulb modules could actually be bad, despite both filaments coming on in high beam mode. Pull the connector at each bulb, there will be three wires: tan, green and black. The black is ground, tan is low and green is high. Make sure there is power on the tan wire when the headlights are on and the high/low switch is set to low. If the tan wire is hot, ...


3

If no leakage from the radiator and the A/C (if so equipped) is still working, there shouldn't be an issue. I would advise you to pull out any broke broken pieces of grill as well as dead bird, to include feathers. The can get trapped in the radiator and reduce cooling efficiency. Get the grill portion replaced as soon as possible to help prevent some other ...


3

The first thing to do is too take the EGR out of circuit. A quick and easy way to do this is to cut an old metal oil can(its thin enough for scissors) so you have a piece of the can that will fit between the bolts of the EGR. Tighten the EGR bolts up with the can acting as a gasket. Now try watching the MAF sensor voltage as you rev the engine sharply and ...


3

Yes, this is a 1967 model as my grand father had the same model that I had seen in the photo album of our family members.


3

Yes, what you are describing is exactly what it sounds like is happening. Tires which are not rotated on a regular basis will complain loudly because of wear patterns, especially the front end ones on front wheel drive vehicles. If those are original tires, I would bet they are getting close to being worn out. Tires which are getting down in tread depth will ...


3

I think the problem is your original transmission was having a synchro issue at the 5th gear, which migrated to the 3rd gear synchro. When I say "migrated" I mean that it too is worn out, not that there is an "infection which is spreading". I would venture to assume your new-to-you transmission suffers from the same fate. If you bought the transmission new ...


3

A quick check showed that the factory 350 with a carb was rated at 175 HP, 210 if it had TBI (throttle body injection) the 190 HP crate motor should be enough. As a plus the crate motor will have a cam with a more modern design resulting in a better running engine. While 190 HP will be enough, you have to remember that mid 80's trucks were not intended to ...


2

The connector for it is #8 so it puts it at the front drivers side of the engine if I'm looking at this diagram correctly.


2

What you are looking for is an "all-in-one" or "combo" brake drum hardware kit. You can pick these up from most of the major parts stores. Here is an example from RockAuto.com with it's corresponding picture: This should be enough for one axle. I'm not sure if front/back are the same, but I believe so. You can get the other bits and pieces (ie: self ...


2

That sounds very much (no, it sounds exactly) like either of two things: either the brake fluid in the master cylinder is very low, or the master cylinder has failed. If anything else were the cause (caliper or wheel cylinder failure, line leakage), then you'd find brake fluid either on the ground or on the inboard surface of one of your tires.


2

This is a common issue. Sometimes the door actuator needs to be reset, as it gets confused. When I had this problem in my Avalanche, I found that turning the temperature all the way to the 90 degree max setting (when set to equal cooling for both sides), waiting a few seconds for the door to stop moving, and then turning the temp back down, would resolve the ...


2

Could this really be a manufacturing defect? Could this be a defect in the part which was put on your car? Possibly, but not probable. When cars are put together they are put through a lot of different tests to ensure parts are put on correctly and are done correctly. Union people tend to take pride in their work ... at least lately they seem to be. I ...


2

Don't worry about the motor, worry about the ignition system. I take it you must be using an HEI distributor in the vehicle to warrant a .060" gap. Be aware that GM reduced this to .045" gap due to longevity issues. If it's not an HEI, I believe the .035" is correct. If you are running the same ignition you were using before the swap, gap it as you had it ...


2

I think at this point you have three areas to look. First, double check the entire intake tract for vacuum leaks. Anyplace you could have unmetered air (air entering after the MAF). You'll also want to pull the intake tube and ensure there aren't any cracks in it as well. Make sure all of your clamps are in good working order and are sealing things. ...


2

Has it stopped working completely, or just on certain speeds? It's possible that the resistor pack ( the thing that controls the speed of the fan ) might have failed...


2

It sounds as though it is one or two things going on here. First of all, did you check the serpentine belt which drives the alternator? Is it still on there and looking ready to do its thing? If that is still there, it could very well be the alternator itself. I've had alternators which have completely froze up. From your description, this could very well ...


2

The motor should turn clockwise as you are looking at the snout of the crankshaft.


1

Unfortunately, there aren't any terrific ways of testing these things with a meter because of the internal electronics. In addition, at least one measurement you make might (will probably) be polarity-sensitive, especially if you use the "diode check" function on your multimeter - that's the A-D reading. Using "diode check", reading one way your meter should ...


1

We solved the issue today. It came down to a sneaky leak in the back brake lines. We fixed that and then had to bleed the breaks a ridiculous amount. After bleeding the back brakes about 10-15 times each the brakes no longer went to the floor (and fixing the sneaky leak of course).


1

If your truck needs an intake manifold gasket (actually you'll change both sides if you do), get this done and see if it solves your problems. Fix the things which you know need fixed. This may or may not solve your backfire issue, but at least you can go from there. Timing is the most conventional thought here, though. I believe the 99 still had the GENI ...


1

Have a gas test carried out on your vehicle, it is often forgotten just how much information a gas test provides. Among the causes for P0300 are bad plugs, bad plug wires, bad ignition coils, leaking fuel injectors, massive air/vacuum leaks, and EVAP system faults. If you can have your vehicle scanned using an OBD scanner and also by a scanner compatable ...


1

You need specialized equipment to break the encryption. The equipment will cost more than simply taking it to a dealer or remote and alarm specialist and having them do it. It's not an overly complicated job, but the equipment makes it infeasible.


1

This sounds like one (or both) of your u-joints is (are) bad. If the u-joint has dried out and the needle bearings are dry, when they rotate as they are supposed to, they bind/release causing a pinging noise like you are describing (it reverberates through the hollow drive shaft). The reason you only hear it at lower speeds is because the road noise covers ...


1

You will need to inspect your driveshaft for security from front to rear, bolts, joints, brackets and for any damage. Are you sure the pinging is from your driveshaft? Pinging is normally associated with engine pinking, especially when accelerating from a low speed.


1

As highlighted in the question comments, the culprit was the vibration damper on the crank pulley that had failed, causing the pulley center and outer ring to have some limited slip relative to one another. I'm happy to say that the following symptoms were resolved. With the A/C disengaged, the crank pulley was spinning at a limited speed. This was also ...


1

The purpose of the resistance in the plug wires is there so that the (1) plug firing voltage is great enough to maintain a sufficent spark firing time and (2) the resistance suppresses interferance with electronic equipment and radios. Spark plug wires are easily broken internally when being removed from the plug, as they can become attached to the spark ...


1

I had a similar problem awhile back---'97 Chevy Blazer---misfiring on take off (accelerating in first gear), and as it turned out, the rubber boot on my PCV (pressure control valve) had deteriorated. ...I'd just had an oil change a couple days prior, and it looked like the tech who did the work broke the boot, then ELECTRICAL TAPED it back together. ..yeah, ...


1

The dealership should be able to make the key from the VIN. Since you do not have a registered key already, you will not be able to program it yourself. The vehicle will have to be somewhere it can be reprogrammed with the new key(s). You can call a lock smith to come out and reprogram the car, but chances are it's going to be just as expensive as having it ...



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