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5

Referring to this website: If all is well and there is no slack in the timing chain then you will see about three to five degrees of "reverse motion" before the distributor begins to turn. To measure this, do the following: Get a socket which fits the front balancer crank shaft bolt. Get a breaker bar which is long enough to turn the crank using it. ...


4

Short Block 18.3 Includes: R&R Engine And Transfer All Necessary Components. With A/C add 1.5 With Cruise Control add 0.4 Complete Assembly With Transfer Of Parts 10.8 Includes: Transfer All Fuel & Electrical Units. Does Not Include: Transfer Of Optional Equipment. With A/C add 1.4 With Cruise Control add 0.4 Long Block 15.3 Includes: ...


4

I have never heard of such a thing before and it also doesn't make any logical sense. On the contrary, if you e.g. change your engine oil every 3000 miles instead of the "recommended" 10000, your engine will last practically forever. A friend of mine has a Honda Civic with 800 000 miles on the odometer and he changes his oil every 6 weeks (he does about 3000 ...


4

It sounds to me like the previous owner suspected an outer CV joint (which was my first thought when you described the problem) and changing it didn't fix the issue. I would double check that the outer CV joints look new and there is a good chance the problem could relate to one of the inner CV joints. Diagnosing the problem will likely be a case of ...


4

Based on the details you have provided, your system is as follows: 4 Ohm coaxial speakers rated at 60w RMS (4) 4 Ohm subwoofer rated at approximately 400w RMS SVC (1) Your options include those you have mentioned which are common: A single 5 channel amp 4 channel amp + monoblock amp Having a separate amp for the mids/highs and lows allows you to have ...


4

Bad coils are just one of many things that could be to blame. I'd say stop changing coils. It is highly unlikely that they were the root cause of the problem to begin with. The symptoms provided are consistent with a misfiring engine. This usually means that there is an issue with the mixture of air and fuel reaching the engine (more on that in a bit). So ...


3

Yes, what you are describing is exactly what it sounds like is happening. Tires which are not rotated on a regular basis will complain loudly because of wear patterns, especially the front end ones on front wheel drive vehicles. If those are original tires, I would bet they are getting close to being worn out. Tires which are getting down in tread depth will ...


3

I think the problem is your original transmission was having a synchro issue at the 5th gear, which migrated to the 3rd gear synchro. When I say "migrated" I mean that it too is worn out, not that there is an "infection which is spreading". I would venture to assume your new-to-you transmission suffers from the same fate. If you bought the transmission new ...


3

A quick check showed that the factory 350 with a carb was rated at 175 HP, 210 if it had TBI (throttle body injection) the 190 HP crate motor should be enough. As a plus the crate motor will have a cam with a more modern design resulting in a better running engine. While 190 HP will be enough, you have to remember that mid 80's trucks were not intended to ...


3

Actually, the wires that you have are thus: Big fat gnarly wire is the main power wire, as you surmised. It comes directly from the battery. It provides power to the solenoid, not to the starter though (well, ultimately it gets to the starter ... I'll explain). There are two parts to the starter (in most vehicles). The larger part which actually attaches to ...


3

No, total toe is what matters, as long as your steering wheel is straight when you are riding down the road. Basically when those readings were taken the steering wheel may not have been pointing straight ahead. If the tech didn't still have the steering wheel locked down and the steering wheel turned slightly it would cause those readings. Another possible ...


3

(EDIT NOTE: I made a bad assumption about the HEI distributor, so deleted all of that nonsense. Please do the following to see if it is an issue, though.) Please check the following: Take the distributor cap off so you can observe the rotor Put a socket on the crank shaft snout bolt (where the main crank pulley is at) Turn the crank clockwise until you ...


2

One thing that I certainly wouldn't rule out is the CPI Spider Fuel Injector Assembly. Do you know if or when this was last replaced? Getting to 216,000 on the original injector spider would make me very suspicious it's the culprit. A clogged or faulty spider could also explain random misfires, and running too lean. These engines are notorious for these ...


2

I'm betting your Corsa is Drive-By-Wire (DBW), meaning, there isn't a direct connection between you and the throttle. If so, the gas pedal rheostat is probably telling the computer you are pressing it, causing the throttle to go up and in some cases not respond at all. You could possibly test the gas pedal by unplugging it and checking for even/smooth ...


2

Could this really be a manufacturing defect? Could this be a defect in the part which was put on your car? Possibly, but not probable. When cars are put together they are put through a lot of different tests to ensure parts are put on correctly and are done correctly. Union people tend to take pride in their work ... at least lately they seem to be. I ...


2

I think at this point you have three areas to look. First, double check the entire intake tract for vacuum leaks. Anyplace you could have unmetered air (air entering after the MAF). You'll also want to pull the intake tube and ensure there aren't any cracks in it as well. Make sure all of your clamps are in good working order and are sealing things. ...


2

Don't worry about the motor, worry about the ignition system. I take it you must be using an HEI distributor in the vehicle to warrant a .060" gap. Be aware that GM reduced this to .045" gap due to longevity issues. If it's not an HEI, I believe the .035" is correct. If you are running the same ignition you were using before the swap, gap it as you had it ...


2

Has it stopped working completely, or just on certain speeds? It's possible that the resistor pack ( the thing that controls the speed of the fan ) might have failed...


2

It sounds as though it is one or two things going on here. First of all, did you check the serpentine belt which drives the alternator? Is it still on there and looking ready to do its thing? If that is still there, it could very well be the alternator itself. I've had alternators which have completely froze up. From your description, this could very well ...


2

The motor should turn clockwise as you are looking at the snout of the crankshaft.


2

Disconnect the battery terminals. Unplug srs fuses if any exists in your fuse box. Unplug the steering wheel airbag its a yellow wire under steering column with a warning label. Unplug the dashboard air bag if you have one. It's a yellow wire under the dash. Same warning label on the passenger side. Replace your sensor Put your fuses back and connect ...


2

Let's start with the most likely culprit which is the battery. The other components you mentioned could be an issue, but it's less likely given what you've told me. There are several things you should do: Check the age of your battery. There should be little stickers on the top or side, usually round with numbers in them. One set of numbers will be the ...


2

tl dr - Upgrade to a 2500 or 2500HD pick-up. There are several issues you'll notice when hauling at the maximum and over the maximum of the towing capacity of the Avalanche. First off, the 2007 & 2008 MYs came with the 4L60e transmission. Why GM ever put these in a pickup truck is beside me. These were meant to go into passenger cars. While they are ...


2

Instead of trying to replace it the way you are suggesting, why not do it a little easier with a V-Flange split coupler. Something like this: (NOTE: This is just an example from Summit Racing You can find them on eBay all day long.) Each side of the split would fit, one on the cat and one on the exhaust pipe. You'd need to weld these in place. They seal ...


2

I think you may be overthinking this. Parallax means the appearance will vary depending on the distance and angle between the viewer and the truck, so unless there's some ISO standard reference point for racing stripe viewing, whatever shape looks right at (say) six feet will look off from 40' away in the opposite lane, and vice versa. I'd base any line ...


2

NOTE: I have anecdotal vs. empirical data on this, so please understand that caveat. I believe the problem which is actually being discussed is doing a transmission flush when it has never been done before (or with long periods without). The theory is, over time, buildup occurs within the transmission when flushes do not occur at regular maintenance ...


2

You will need to replace the entire switch assembly. Replacing the switch should not be that difficult. You should be able to do this by: Remove the steering column trim covers. Disconnect the multifunction turn signal switch harness connectors. Depress the lock tabs on the multifunction lever. Remove the multifunction lever. Replace in reverse. You ...


2

Low brake pedal and poor brake performance could be the result of any one of the following: Air in the brake lines; Low brake fluid level; A leak in the brake lines or slave cylinders; Defective master cylinder. The reason it is more pronounced when the engine is running is because of the power assist provided by the brake booster, but most likely ...


2

My first suggestion was going to be the wheel bearing. It still might be one of the rear bearings. I had this problem with my '06 Pontiac and the wheel hub (including bearing) was surprisingly cheap and easy to replace. You should be able to inspect the rear bearings much the same way as the front bearings. My second suggestion would be the CV joints. The ...


2

I think your idea you are having a major carbon buildup is a good theory. You can try and get rid of the carbon by doing a Seafoam treatment. You mentioned are in the process of running a bottle of Techron through it. While this will help if you are using it all the time, it won't do much for a huge carbon buildup. Also, I believe you have carbon buildup in ...



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