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6

This is a 1967 Camaro which Chip Foose rebuilt on an episode of Overhaulin'. The sign in the background is the clue. EDIT: I guess I could tell you how to tell this is a '67 with or without knowing Chip Foose did this build :-) If you know anything about Camaros, you can tell this is a 1st gen by its angular cuts. The 2nd gens are not angular and are a lot ...


4

Short Block 18.3 Includes: R&R Engine And Transfer All Necessary Components. With A/C add 1.5 With Cruise Control add 0.4 Complete Assembly With Transfer Of Parts 10.8 Includes: Transfer All Fuel & Electrical Units. Does Not Include: Transfer Of Optional Equipment. With A/C add 1.4 With Cruise Control add 0.4 Long Block 15.3 Includes: ...


3

If no leakage from the radiator and the A/C (if so equipped) is still working, there shouldn't be an issue. I would advise you to pull out any broke broken pieces of grill as well as dead bird, to include feathers. The can get trapped in the radiator and reduce cooling efficiency. Get the grill portion replaced as soon as possible to help prevent some other ...


3

The first thing to do is too take the EGR out of circuit. A quick and easy way to do this is to cut an old metal oil can(its thin enough for scissors) so you have a piece of the can that will fit between the bolts of the EGR. Tighten the EGR bolts up with the can acting as a gasket. Now try watching the MAF sensor voltage as you rev the engine sharply and ...


3

Yes, this is a 1967 model as my grand father had the same model that I had seen in the photo album of our family members.


3

Yes, what you are describing is exactly what it sounds like is happening. Tires which are not rotated on a regular basis will complain loudly because of wear patterns, especially the front end ones on front wheel drive vehicles. If those are original tires, I would bet they are getting close to being worn out. Tires which are getting down in tread depth will ...


3

I think the problem is your original transmission was having a synchro issue at the 5th gear, which migrated to the 3rd gear synchro. When I say "migrated" I mean that it too is worn out, not that there is an "infection which is spreading". I would venture to assume your new-to-you transmission suffers from the same fate. If you bought the transmission new ...


3

A quick check showed that the factory 350 with a carb was rated at 175 HP, 210 if it had TBI (throttle body injection) the 190 HP crate motor should be enough. As a plus the crate motor will have a cam with a more modern design resulting in a better running engine. While 190 HP will be enough, you have to remember that mid 80's trucks were not intended to ...


3

Actually, the wires that you have are thus: Big fat gnarly wire is the main power wire, as you surmised. It comes directly from the battery. It provides power to the solenoid, not to the starter though (well, ultimately it gets to the starter ... I'll explain). There are two parts to the starter (in most vehicles). The larger part which actually attaches to ...


3

I have never heard of such a thing before and it also doesn't make any logical sense. On the contrary, if you e.g. change your engine oil every 3000 miles instead of the "recommended" 10000, your engine will last practically forever. A friend of mine has a Honda Civic with 800 000 miles on the odometer and he changes his oil every 6 weeks (he does about 3000 ...


2

That sounds very much (no, it sounds exactly) like either of two things: either the brake fluid in the master cylinder is very low, or the master cylinder has failed. If anything else were the cause (caliper or wheel cylinder failure, line leakage), then you'd find brake fluid either on the ground or on the inboard surface of one of your tires.


2

This is a common issue. Sometimes the door actuator needs to be reset, as it gets confused. When I had this problem in my Avalanche, I found that turning the temperature all the way to the 90 degree max setting (when set to equal cooling for both sides), waiting a few seconds for the door to stop moving, and then turning the temp back down, would resolve the ...


2

The connector for it is #8 so it puts it at the front drivers side of the engine if I'm looking at this diagram correctly.


2

Could this really be a manufacturing defect? Could this be a defect in the part which was put on your car? Possibly, but not probable. When cars are put together they are put through a lot of different tests to ensure parts are put on correctly and are done correctly. Union people tend to take pride in their work ... at least lately they seem to be. I ...


2

Don't worry about the motor, worry about the ignition system. I take it you must be using an HEI distributor in the vehicle to warrant a .060" gap. Be aware that GM reduced this to .045" gap due to longevity issues. If it's not an HEI, I believe the .035" is correct. If you are running the same ignition you were using before the swap, gap it as you had it ...


2

I think at this point you have three areas to look. First, double check the entire intake tract for vacuum leaks. Anyplace you could have unmetered air (air entering after the MAF). You'll also want to pull the intake tube and ensure there aren't any cracks in it as well. Make sure all of your clamps are in good working order and are sealing things. ...


2

Has it stopped working completely, or just on certain speeds? It's possible that the resistor pack ( the thing that controls the speed of the fan ) might have failed...


2

It sounds as though it is one or two things going on here. First of all, did you check the serpentine belt which drives the alternator? Is it still on there and looking ready to do its thing? If that is still there, it could very well be the alternator itself. I've had alternators which have completely froze up. From your description, this could very well ...


2

The motor should turn clockwise as you are looking at the snout of the crankshaft.


2

Disconnect the battery terminals. Unplug srs fuses if any exists in your fuse box. Unplug the steering wheel airbag its a yellow wire under steering column with a warning label. Unplug the dashboard air bag if you have one. It's a yellow wire under the dash. Same warning label on the passenger side. Replace your sensor Put your fuses back and connect ...


2

Let's start with the most likely culprit which is the battery. The other components you mentioned could be an issue, but it's less likely given what you've told me. There are several things you should do: Check the age of your battery. There should be little stickers on the top or side, usually round with numbers in them. One set of numbers will be the ...


2

tl dr - Upgrade to a 2500 or 2500HD pick-up. There are several issues you'll notice when hauling at the maximum and over the maximum of the towing capacity of the Avalanche. First off, the 2007 & 2008 MYs came with the 4L60e transmission. Why GM ever put these in a pickup truck is beside me. These were meant to go into passenger cars. While they are ...


2

Instead of trying to replace it the way you are suggesting, why not do it a little easier with a V-Flange split coupler. Something like this: (NOTE: This is just an example from Summit Racing You can find them on eBay all day long.) Each side of the split would fit, one on the cat and one on the exhaust pipe. You'd need to weld these in place. They seal ...


2

You will need to replace the entire switch assembly. Replacing the switch should not be that difficult. You should be able to do this by: Remove the steering column trim covers. Disconnect the multifunction turn signal switch harness connectors. Depress the lock tabs on the multifunction lever. Remove the multifunction lever. Replace in reverse. You ...


1

We solved the issue today. It came down to a sneaky leak in the back brake lines. We fixed that and then had to bleed the breaks a ridiculous amount. After bleeding the back brakes about 10-15 times each the brakes no longer went to the floor (and fixing the sneaky leak of course).


1

That sounds like normal behavior. Under load, most cars will disengage the A/C compressor clutch to provide more power for acceleration.


1

If your truck needs an intake manifold gasket (actually you'll change both sides if you do), get this done and see if it solves your problems. Fix the things which you know need fixed. This may or may not solve your backfire issue, but at least you can go from there. Timing is the most conventional thought here, though. I believe the 99 still had the GENI ...


1

Have a gas test carried out on your vehicle, it is often forgotten just how much information a gas test provides. Among the causes for P0300 are bad plugs, bad plug wires, bad ignition coils, leaking fuel injectors, massive air/vacuum leaks, and EVAP system faults. If you can have your vehicle scanned using an OBD scanner and also by a scanner compatable ...


1

You need specialized equipment to break the encryption. The equipment will cost more than simply taking it to a dealer or remote and alarm specialist and having them do it. It's not an overly complicated job, but the equipment makes it infeasible.


1

This sounds like one (or both) of your u-joints is (are) bad. If the u-joint has dried out and the needle bearings are dry, when they rotate as they are supposed to, they bind/release causing a pinging noise like you are describing (it reverberates through the hollow drive shaft). The reason you only hear it at lower speeds is because the road noise covers ...



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