Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

5

Referring to this website: If all is well and there is no slack in the timing chain then you will see about three to five degrees of "reverse motion" before the distributor begins to turn. To measure this, do the following: Get a socket which fits the front balancer crank shaft bolt. Get a breaker bar which is long enough to turn the crank using it. ...


4

It sounds to me like the previous owner suspected an outer CV joint (which was my first thought when you described the problem) and changing it didn't fix the issue. I would double check that the outer CV joints look new and there is a good chance the problem could relate to one of the inner CV joints. Diagnosing the problem will likely be a case of ...


4

Based on the details you have provided, your system is as follows: 4 Ohm coaxial speakers rated at 60w RMS (4) 4 Ohm subwoofer rated at approximately 400w RMS SVC (1) Your options include those you have mentioned which are common: A single 5 channel amp 4 channel amp + monoblock amp Having a separate amp for the mids/highs and lows allows you to have ...


4

Bad coils are just one of many things that could be to blame. I'd say stop changing coils. It is highly unlikely that they were the root cause of the problem to begin with. The symptoms provided are consistent with a misfiring engine. This usually means that there is an issue with the mixture of air and fuel reaching the engine (more on that in a bit). So ...


3

(EDIT NOTE: I made a bad assumption about the HEI distributor, so deleted all of that nonsense. Please do the following to see if it is an issue, though.) Please check the following: Take the distributor cap off so you can observe the rotor Put a socket on the crank shaft snout bolt (where the main crank pulley is at) Turn the crank clockwise until you ...


2

There appears to be a similar case on the Cobalt forum, where compression test figures are reported to be around 220 psi, roughly double what you're reporting. If this is the case for your vehicle, it would seem that the problem is related to a lack of compression and not fuel, air or spark.


2

One thing that I certainly wouldn't rule out is the CPI Spider Fuel Injector Assembly. Do you know if or when this was last replaced? Getting to 216,000 on the original injector spider would make me very suspicious it's the culprit. A clogged or faulty spider could also explain random misfires, and running too lean. These engines are notorious for these ...


2

I think your idea you are having a major carbon buildup is a good theory. You can try and get rid of the carbon by doing a Seafoam treatment. You mentioned are in the process of running a bottle of Techron through it. While this will help if you are using it all the time, it won't do much for a huge carbon buildup. Also, I believe you have carbon buildup in ...


1

I removed the top hose (engine to canister) and drove. I still experienced the run-on, so I believe this conclusively rules out the canister as the cause of the dieseling. I also found that the connection of this top hose to the metal tubing was very loose and possibly the cause of the gasoline smell. I put a hose clamp here to eliminate this. As far as ...


1

Try to push the door closed and pull the latch to see if that open it. Sometimes if you over stuff the compartment it will close and be pushed so tightly against the door it cannot unlatch. By pushing on the door you are relieving pressure and allowing the latch to open.


1

I had the same problem with my 2004 chevrolet malibu classic. I replaced the oxygen sensor, crank sensor, fuel pump, and thermostat. Come to find out, it was my computer module. If your check engine light do not come on and you continue to have a "no start" problem, it may be your computer module.



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible