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5

Take the hard rubber pieces out of the sprocket assembly and put them in the hub. Note that they can only be installed one way. It does not matter if you install them in different locations in the hub. There should be something in your manual about greasing the parts that run around the axle, usually with NLGI 2. Then install the sprocket assembly and ...


3

It sounds as though the rear-end is too tight. There is a straight rod which runs through the back of the bike which holds the rear-end together. You can see it in the circled in this picture: If this isn't torqued correctly, it will cause drag on the rear end. Sounds like your's is torqued too much. Another area to look at is to see if the rear brakes ...


2

@marc covers the adjustment process well. However, uneven tension is a sign of wear, and can be a cause for chain replacement. Every chain driven bike has a maximum chain slack, and a minimum. Chain slack should be adjusted to the minimum allowable slack at the tightest point. After adjusting, the loosest point must also be checked. If the chain slack is ...


2

It is common for a chain to be tighter in certain spots than others, owing to some slight eccentricity of the sprockets. The generally accepted practice is to adjust chain tension relative to the tightest spot you can find, so that you avoid creating overly-tight spots, which could drastically accelerate the wear of the chain potentially leading to ...


2

If we are talking street applications, then use an o-ring chain, which means 'degreasing' is unnecessary, just cleaning. I have never changed chains at less than 20,000 mile intervals, with one change out after 40,000 miles out of paranoia, though that bike has an oiler installed. All I do to clean is put the bike on a center stand or rear stand, then ...



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