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11

There are two possible explanations: If the fuel cap does not form a good enough seal, the fuel injection system may experience problems with drawing fuel from the tank. On newer cars many of them have a fuel cap sensor to detect if the cap is not screwed in. This is related to emissions, although i am uncertain how. I know when I get my yearly emissions ...


8

For checking codes, any off the shelf obd2 reader will do. If you want to have fun, ELM327 based OBD2 readers are all the rage right now. You can pick up a bluetooth version for ~$40 on amazon or ebay. Several iOS and android apps (like Torque) exist that can read a signal from these adapters and do full on data-logging. This will let you read/clear ...


7

The EPA regulations require that the fuel tank is a sealed system so that no vapors escape. There is an entire system (Evaporative Purge) dedicated to that task. EPA regulations also require that the ECM (Engine Control Module) check they system for leak. When the right conditions are met IE fuel level between 1/3 and 1/2 tank, outside temp 50 - 90 etc. the ...


5

First guess, bad spark plug wires. You can check by first, doing a visual inspection of the wires, looking for burn spots, particularly if the wire was touching/rubbing on something. Second, on a dry night, crank the engine and lightly mist the wires with a spray bottle of water. You will be looking for a spark to ground and you may also hear it. Beyond ...


5

It was indeed the catalytic converter (the EX does not have a pre-cat). After replacing it, the downstream sensor graph spends most of its time above 0.5 V, as it should if the converter is working. Update: I started getting this error code again, a little over a year after replacing the cat. I also finally found a guide on how to read these graphs, from ...


5

Does it make the most sense to replace an old car's entire exhaust system all at once? Considering your car is almost 10 years old, having to replace all of the parts in the exhaust system does not sound unreasonable, especially if your locality uses any type of road solvent during the winter months (they didn't in Montana where I'm from originally, ...


4

I've diagnosed this condition many times with a vehicle-specific scan tool, and I don't think it can be done without this or an oscilloscope. O2 sensors work in the range of less than 1 volt (.2v to .7v) In particular, the rear O2 sensor should stay at a fairly constant .5v if the cat is working right. Wild swings to the extremes indicate the cat isn't ...


4

It's just in front of the front passenger side door, under the dashboard. It might be stuck down behind the carpet a ways.


4

There's no immediate way to just know what's wrong, what you need to do is take the car to an advance auto or autozone and have them hook up and ODB-II code reader. They will tell you what code is coming up and can clear the code for you if you'd like. This is a free service, and they will often be able to recommend parts or service based on the CEL reading. ...


4

This blog is a nice reference: http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/chrysler-1985-95-obd1-code-self.html It explains how to check: Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition keyON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. Count the number of time the MIL (check engine lamp)on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes ...


4

The ECU may have "tuned" itself to the gap and behavior of the old plugs. When you had the plugs replaced, if the shop did not disconnect the battery (and even if they did, not sure about your Ford) the ECU would still have the long term fuel trims that matched your old plugs in effect. So this may result in a bit less or more fuel being injected and ...


4

With some variation based on model year and country of use most faults will latch and self clear. By latching the fault, it is stored and in some cases the "check engine light" also referred to as the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will remain lit after repair until certain conditions are met. The conditions for the fault to clear may involve a certain ...


4

This should not cause you an issue, but this sounds more like a problem with the O2 sensors than with the intake gaskets. When was the last time you had them changed? If you are over 100k miles without new ones, I'd highly suggest this first. One way to check your theory for the intake gasket is by using a spray bottle with water (on jet, not spray). With ...


4

This is normal behavior - When the engine is not running, there is no oil pressure, so when the ignition is turned on, that light will be on. As Larry says, this functions as a bulb test so that you know that it is working. When you start the engine, the oil is pumped round, the pressure goes up and the light goes out.


3

I wouldn't risk it. If the water pump fails you can easily cook the engine, leading to no end of problems (failed head gasket, warped head, etc). The temperature gauge will only give you an accurate reading if the coolant is flowing through the engine - if it isn't you will end up with hot spots very quickly. A lot of modern cars have an ecu-controlled ...


3

The blinking CEL is on this car is an indication of a misfire. It sounds like you either have a bad or misconnected coil or spark plug. This is a problem that needs to get solved but I don't think it's likely a consequence of the fuel pump replacement. Try visually inspecting the coil and spark plug wires. Look for grey streaks for places where your ...


3

I don't think it's got anything to do with the timing belt change interval, but the only way to find out is to hook up the car to an appropriate code reader to find out what code is triggering the check engine light.


3

I am not sure how it would be like on 1989 Ford E250 but on Dodge 1998, this is like this Turn the Ignition Key to on, turn it back off in quick sucession Repeate the above step 2 more times (total 3) On the forth, leave the ignition switch key on ON Now the Engine Indicator light will start flashing. Five short flashes, followed by a pause and then five ...


3

Either a new fuel cap or you have an air leak somewhere in the system. Best to see what the code is first. The computer checks the pressure of the evaporative emissions system and if it can't hold pressure a code is triggered. Either your cap is bad, a seal is bad/disconnected, etc.


3

This can be caused by a number of things, including: Leak in the fuel tank (loose cap) Leaking evaporator canister (plastic housing in engine compartment or under vehicle, also known as charcoal canister) Plugged evaporator canister - there is a tube that is open to the air that can become plugged Malfunctioning purge valve - valve itself is faulty or ...


3

Replacing the broken fan switch seems to have made the CEL go away. My best guess is that the ECU starts monitoring the O2 sensor output as soon as this sensor reads that the engine is hot, and gets upset when the O2 sensor is actually still cold. Edit: Nope, the CEL is back, and gas mileage has been really bad (around 18-19mpg on a car that usually gets ...


3

I found a site called actron.com that describes OBDII codes. Autozone explains what the camshaft position sensor is. Camshaft Position Sensor Actuator Operation The Camshaft Position (CMP) actuator is attached to each camshaft and is hydraulically operated in order to change the angle of the camshaft relative to Crankshaft Position ...


3

How the computer works on most modern cars is like this: It monitors all the sensors in the automobile in near real time. When a fault is detected more than a set criteria per trip, the computer sets of a MIL. So it is possible the computer has not detected that fault in some time (causing the computer to assume systems are normal). So it is very possible ...


2

Most of your local mechanics should have the sort of (expensive) scan tool that can display the sensor information. I'd get it diagnosed there - if you're not confident using a multimeter and poking electronics that's probably the quicker way to get a diagnosis.


2

A flashing check engine light means you may be doing damage to the catalytic converter if you continue to drive the vehicle. If the misfire is bad enough too much raw fuel is going into the exhaust, enough to do damage to the converter. I'm not sure it's required on OBD II, but several manufactures flash the light for this reason.


2

I found this: http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/1l50u-does-dtc-12-memory-controller-cleared-within.html Which seems to confirm that 12 just means the battery was disconnected and that you should always see 55. 21 should not come up unless there is a problem, because the sensor should be able to detect rich or lean. So check/replace O2 is the correct ...


2

Spark plugs or coil pack issues are probably the most common cause of a random misfire. I would check those items, as they are often related to the symptoms you describe. If you don't have a code for EGR, it is unlikely to be the source of your problems. It's a relatively simple system, a single EGR solenoid controls exhaust gas flow from a port on the ...


2

If you remove the passenger side foot kick panel covering the ECU you will see it there. On the 97 it is the blue 2 pin plug.


2

Reading the codes will do you no good unless you know what each one means. If you go to Autozone (or something similar) they will usually read the codes for you for free. There is an EEC-IV Test Port connector somewhere in the engine compartment. They will know where.


2

The cars' computer runs tests on the emission systems on the car. When the car fails the test it turns on the light, if it passes the test after that it turns off the light. You may have something that is close to failing the parameters set by the OEM. A small leak that's just on the edge of passing. Something like temperature changes, or vibration could ...



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