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4

You said that it is leaking from somewhere "under the tank" and then jump directly to the carbs. If it is the carbs, you'll probably have to tear into them. If it is from under the tank, there are a few things you can check: Is the tank intact? You may have rust burrowing through the tank and causing leaks. This is bad. Should be visible in the fuel ...


4

Don't worry, you're not the only one who had to endure this pain... I had an old KZ650 I pulled the carbs from what it looks like a similar design. Like yours, it was older and the plastic air intake tubes were very stiff. Here is what I had to do. Pull gas tank off and disconnect from carbs. Pull the seat off to access the air filter and air box. Pull ...


4

I need to get a carb kit and just haven't gotten around to it. A carb kit for a 1975 Honda may be harder to find than you think. You'd better start searching for that now or maybe even a used carburetor, if you can find one. My guess is the obvious one: Something did not seal when you worked on your carburetor. Pull it apart again. You missed ...


3

Simply cranking the car for 10 - 15 seconds should prime the carb. Crank the car for about 15 seconds Stop for about 15 seconds Pump the accelerator petal twice Crank the car again, if it doesn't start immediately keep cranking the car for a maximum of 15 seconds. Stop Wait at least 2 minutes, this is to prevent damage to the starter. Then go back to step ...


3

If by "spark plug was dirty" you mean "black and sooty" then you're running rich and need to either lean out your mixture or double-check your air cleaner and make sure it's good. I know my old 73 CL125 would occasionally accumulate an impressive amount of dead leaves and pine needles around the screen of the air filter. Only took a few seconds to pop off ...


2

On my old bike I had to pull the fuel tank off to get the carbs out. If anything it will make the job much easier in terms of access for your hands.


2

A shop manual (particularly one with colour photos) will offer some spark plug diagrams / photos, to compare against your plugs, but they're not particularly useful. As you said, claims are contradictory. The problem is, that a symptom of too lean/too rich is that it doesn't run as well as it should. That's both ways. So a too-lean symptom for one person is ...


2

Two main reasons: Already some races require restrictor plates to keep the speed down, so swapping out the carburetor for modern fuel injection would increase the need for restriction. It is easier to inspect and monitor a carburetor, therefore it is more fair for each team since it is harder to cheat (or at least easier to get caught). However, from ...


2

I'll assume first that you've tried spraying carb cleaner into it since you've had it out, so your question is more about what other adjustments there are, specifically relating to the idle. Beyond the Mixture screw you mentioned, there is usually 'Pilot Jet(s)' that allow some fuel regardless of RPM (as opposed to the 'Main Jet(s)'), and if they get gummed ...


2

In addition to Troggy's sequence, make sure that the clamps on the airbox boots, and the intake boot are fully loose with some slack, and using some heat from a hair-dryer or heat gun will make the rubber boots much more supple.


2

Yes, you can install it, but no, won't do anything for fuel consumption. Carburetors don't automatically adjust themselves to take advantage of new fuel characteristics or other changes in the engine's combustion characteristics. Nano fuel economizer does the same job that your engine oil does. So, if you regular put new oil in your car, you're already ...


2

The back pressure and flow change of the exhaust will have an effect on the combustion and mixture. Usually with a free flowing exhaust, you have to rejet the carb a little richer and with a free flowing airfilter, doubly so. Running it without an airbox is making it worse, the mixture is already lean and stuffing more air down the bores isn't going to help ...


1

This is a carburetor issue, most likely caused by ethanol gas. Ethanol laced gas reeks havoc upon small engines. The easiest fix for it is to purchase a new carburetor for it, due to paying the price for a replacement carb outweighs the cost in time and frustration which will be brought upon you trying to rebuild it. I have tried to rebuild small engine ...


1

A carburetor is a carburetor: it doesn't matter what kind it is - it allows air to flow through it and meters the fuel to produce the optimal air/fuel ratio to allow the engine to run. That said, you'll have two things to look at: First, fitment. Will a different carburetor physically fit within the confines of the current carb? Will the carb output size ...


1

I had the same problem with my Katana 600. Ran some Seafoam through it and it got better, presumably cleaned up any deposits from gas sitting in the carbs too long.


1

In the images I've seen of the engine/carb setup, the original rubber intake manifold piece, due to design, could not be made out of metal. You still need a way to attach it to the engine, and that is going to be some sort of rubber part to connect the two pieces. Due to this, I have two suggestions: Make a mount out of metal which would go between the ...


1

UPDATE This Answer was valid until recently. BikeBandit.com stopped carrying Ducati. Ducati Omaha does carry schematics online that allow the below answer to work, but they only have schematics 2000 and newer. However, their webpage says "For Prior Years - PLEASE CALL, we have access to the parts catalog back to 1993 for most models. 402-934-6627" ...


1

I figured this would be the problem. Turned out someone before me forced an SAE 1/4" bolt into the M10 hole on the engine block, and that's exactly where the vacuum leak was. I had a mechanic put a helicoil in, and the problem has gone away.


1

This to me sounds like some form of vacuum actuator that's leaking somewhere under load. I would look for any dry or thinned out vacuum lines. I had something similar happen, though it was on a throttle body injected truck. Enough vacuum was pulled that a line either collapsed or flattened out enough for it to get pinched by something. Either way I would ...


1

Backfiring is typically a too-rich condition. I would check any accelerator pump for proper operation, due to it being on acceleration only. Engine's are inefficient when cold and will require a lot more fuel, so that may be what's masking the symptoms until warm. It sounds like the engine is temporarily flooded on hard accel., and then when the gas is ...


1

You will need about 25 feet of clear vinyl aquarium air hose and a screwdriver. Cut the aquarium hose in half to make two lengths. Use each to make a water manometer to balance each pair of carbs (left pair and right pair). Then balance the inner pair and the outer pair using the same method. The basic idea ...


1

Ehryk has a lot of good suggestions. If it's not flooding out (rich) then it's got to be running lean. A common problem with older carbs is air leaking in around the throttle shaft. That's the shaft to which the butterfly valves are attached there may or may not be replaceable bushings. If there are no bushings, or bushing kits then it's time for a new carb. ...


1

Is your fuel filter clean? The lines could also be contaminated from sitting so long. Try flushing them with some gas. I've seen many engines that haven't run in a long time not work because of dirty fuel. Make sure the tank is clean as well. Also, check that the fuel pump is still working.


1

Found the culprit the jets were fine, however the float bowl was full of residue and water, as well as the jet carrier bolt being snapped in half so the jets were moving along to where they were not able to fuel the cylinder. After a full strip down, rebuild and calibration its now firing on both cylinders correctly.


1

Sounds like you are not burning your mixture in the vertical cylinder, and the warmth is transfer from the horizontal cylinder. The vibration is usually can be caused by said dead cylinder, and the difference in force in the strokes creates an off balance in your crankshaft. This happens in motor vehicles as well, and its normally caused by a lack of ...


1

A stuck carburetor float-bowl valve (commonly referred to as a 'stuck float') is a frequent cause of overflow problems. Each carburetor has a fuel reservoir on the bottom containing a floating shut-off valve inside that stops fuel from flowing to the carb when the fuel level rises high enough in the bowl. When there is a stuck float, fuel keeps flowing ...


1

A lean mixture in a motorcycle will symptomatically be hard to start - and you will see less/little fuel in the carburetor and if you remove the plug(s) immediatly after starting attempts, the plugs will be dry rather than an overly rich mixture where they might be "wet" with fuel. If your bike runs rather bad/worse when cold, but better when warm it is ...



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