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11

I think Meineke was taking you for a ride (pun intended). Here is my reasoning: If it was leaking as bad as they say (or showed you) it was, you wouldn't have had any oil in your vehicle when you got to their shop. If the car was having the massive oil leaks all over the engine compartment as they showed you, there would have been VOLUMES of smoke from it ...


8

Most likely, one of the engine mounts are 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine. Now tighten all ...


6

MAJOR UPDATE - TOYOTA WARRANTY EXTENSION FOR "STICKY DASHBOARDS" Today ( 12/29/2014 ) I received in the mail a Warranty Enhancement Notification regarding my Toyota. Complete coincidence that I received this a few weeks after I posted the original question. A relevant December 18th, 2014 article from a consumer investigator regarding this issue. ...


5

Sounds to me like you have something binding up or caught in the tracks. Not sure what their theory is with the rubber mallet. If it's to knock the brushes in the motor loose then it won't help because the motor is working. It could be to try and unbind but I doubt it. With that being said it really can't hurt to try the rubber mallet. My next step would be ...


5

Certain Toyota engines are notorious for valve stem seal leaks starting at right around 60k miles. It's exacerbated by using synthetic oil. I put 180k miles on a 5S-FE engine that had that problem all the way from 55k miles. Just had to top off the oil periodically. The Toyota mechs I know all say it's not worth the money to fix, just monitor the oil ...


4

Obviously the easy fix is replace the battery in your FOB then just hit unlock once you hook up the battery. But... If you are too lazy to replace your FOB battery. Try just putting the key in the ignition in the "ON" position then hooking up the battery. If that doesn't work then try cycling the key between off and on (not start) 5 times. If that doesn't ...


4

The 4-cyl camry's of that vintage are known to have a rough idle, but a drop to 300-400 RPM at idle is pretty severe. I haven't seen the spec, but I would think that car should probably warm idle in the 800-900 RPM range. You should have the car scanned to check for pending trouble codes. These codes can show up before the Check Engine Light (CEL) goes on, ...


4

It sounds like the lock on your driver's door is stuck (leading to the first symptom), which has led to it constantly sending the "lock" signal to the central locking, causing the second symptom. If you can get the door open, you should be able to disconnect the central locking wiring from the lock to stop it locking the other doors, then investigate why ...


4

If the vehicle has power door locks it's not a big deal. You can use a system like the one below. It's currently $35 from JC Whitney If you don't have factory power locks it gets more complicated. You will need to install door lock actuators, either aftermarket or factory. You could get the actuators, linkages and such from a junk yard, sometimes easier ...


4

Depending on the design of your car, the engine mounts may have been removed during the alternator removal and replacement so any damage may now show up. Alternatively, if the alternator previously wasn't working and is now drawing on the vehicles RPM to charge the batter, the idle may have dropped (which could account for the vibration). If the vibration ...


4

While both Paulster2's and Steve Matthews's have good answers, there is another thing to consider. The 3.5 V-6 equipped Camrys that year (not sure about the 4 cly) have what Toyota calls Active Control Engine Mounts. They use vacuum and electricity to control the mounts. Also on the 3.5 engine it's quite an extensive repair to get to the alternator off, and ...


4

Since the drain is very repeatable, connecting an ammeter in series with the battery and disconnecting each fuse in turn is a good idea as @jphil1618 suggested. You could find that the problem is associated with multiple fuses, for example it could be the fuel pump that is running (I know you would hear the pump) and while pulling the fuel pump fuse will ...


3

It sounds to me that the gear(s) in the motor are partially stripped. When the wipers go up, it hits the place where the teeth are gone. When you pushed it back down manually, it caught a place where the teeth are still present and brought them back down. The only way you can check this is by extracting the motor and pulling the gears apart to check. Any way ...


3

Whether you stick with synthetic or switch back to traditional oil, if it is your valve seals (which does seem likely) you will still need to get them replaced. Quite often that is all you will need to replace - but worth getting your garage to have a look at head gasket at the same time as they will be in there anyway.


3

I found the easiest way to undo the 3 bolts holding the fuse and wiring distribution board and undoing a couple of the looms. With this done, you can then move this out of the way and gain side access to the brake pedal. With some slight patience you can insert the stop light cushion into place.


3

Sounds like a possible partial brake master cylinder failure. I had that happen where one set of seals blew out and it was essentially in "emergency backup mode". Took awhile to figure it out, we were playing with the pedal, bleeding the calipers, etc before we ended up at the master cylinder...


3

The windshield repair guy is correct: there is no way to repair cracks in the windshield. I don't know what the laws are in Alberta, but here in Virginia, if the cracks are on the driver's side of the windshield, it needs to be replaced. Considering that you were replacing the wiper motor and it is on the DS of the vehicle, I will assume this is your case. I ...


3

There are three common causes for this: User error, as pointed by Regina Fault in the electrical wiring of the car Failing battery Since it took forever to charge it back up I believe the third issue applies. For the first, the solution is to pay attention when leaving the car: check lights, radio/music player, any consumers plugged into the ...


3

Could be a failing coil, which will inevitably lead to a complete fail at some point soon. Very easy to test. I think for you it's under the distributor cap. And I think they even reported a large group complaint for distributor-related components this model. If out of spec, that's your problem. What you explained was very similar to what happened to me ...


2

There are a lot of things that can set this code, so it can be time consuming to figure out, and there are some special tools that make the job a lot easier. You can do it without the special tools, it's just going to take longer. The list below is what it takes to set the code. When VSV for pressure switching valve is ON, ECM judges that there is no ...


2

Depends wildy on your definition of "jerks". Hard jerks can be fluid pressure problems in the shift solenoids that cause rough shifting. Light jerks are pretty normal on torque-converter equipped, or even automated manual vehicles if they shift while you are modulating the throttle. Does this jerk happen if you keep the throttle steady, or just when you ...


2

If the alarm is a "factory" alarm, cycle the key in the ignition from off to on (where the dash indicators light up), 5 times. This is the reset procedure for the "factory" alarm. Otherwise look in the owners manual where there is a red button under the steering wheel, possibly behind a panel. These process is performed when doing maintenance. Either way, ...


2

Some of those seat mechanisms come with safety features like windows do, and when they encounter resistance they stop. Check your seat rails for loose change, or any other tough items (umbrellas, etc). Hitting with a mallet should not harms anything, as you are mostly love tapping. This is to hopefully loosen a stuck rail, or seized motor. Lastly, a mechanic ...


2

Have you checked your VIN number? There's a good chance that the 5th character will answer your question: a G for a 5S-FE or an F for a 1MZ-FE. Those codes are valid in the US after 1996. Your mileage may vary depending on your location and from where the car was originally sourced.


2

How many cylinders does it have? The 5S-FE is a straight four cylinder engine. The 1MZ-FE is a V6 engine.


2

Checking several sites I have not found any thing that relates to a cabin air filter for your Camry. They list several other models but none for a Camry. For future reference Fram has a database that lists instructions for replacing cabin air filters by make ,model and year. It appears that they became available on the 2002 models.


2

I had the same problem programming my 2000 Camrys (two different cars!) The instructions that finally worked involved the two cycles of 5x lock/unlock using the switch on the armrest console. I had to do it probably 15 times until I finally got it right! It is important to follow the sequence exactly and wait until you hear the system click/beep indicating ...


2

Your immobilizer is immobilizing ;) Your car has a security feature called an immobiliser which will prevent the car from starting, or will make it die after being driven only a short distance if the key is not in the ignition or you didn't press a hidden switch in time. Sometimes these systems malfunction, causing the car to die even though you've done ...


2

The slightly high idle and roughness at idle sounds like a symptom of a vacuum leak in the intake system. It also would cause it to go away when the throttle is slightly depressed taking the engine off idle (~1000RPM) Here is how you can test that theory: A common trick I used in the shop is to spray the intake area from the throttle body to the cylinder ...


2

I can't say for sure what happened AT the shop, but that much oil would have caused a very strong oil smell coming out of the air ducts. Probably lots of smoke from the oil on the manifold too. Which leads me to the conclusion that whatever happened, happened at the workshop. I can't think of a hypothetical way in which one can cause the gasket to break by ...



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