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31

Most of the time when you drive, you're putting a load (and causing wear) on what I'm going to call the "forward" face of each tooth on each gear in your drivetrain. The front of a tooth on the crankshaft pushes against the back of a tooth on the next gear in line, which pushes the next gear, etc. When you use "engine braking", all you are doing is ...


12

If you downshift into a gear at a RPM that is within the norm of driving then no, no harm done. When you downshift what is slowing you down is actually the compression stroke and is recommended over hard braking. Like another said, it is a bit of a mix of the two but engine braking is ok as long as the engine stays under redline, so do not go from 5th to ...


11

tl;dr: No. This sort of vehicle dynamics question best addressed by Racing Car Vehicle Dynamics What follows is a basic discussion at the high school physics level. As you will see from the reference text, high school physics is insufficient to statically model the complete vehicle system. A dynamic model is required to agree with easily obtainable ...


10

I'm a driver trainer/examiner and most of the time you rarely need heavy braking in traffic. If you drive calmly, allow plenty of distance between you and the vehicle in front (even at low speed)) and just take your foot of the accelerator early you avoid stopping and starting. If you let the car slow down and use the gear until it is no longer appropriate ...


9

Which would you rather change - your brake pads or your clutch? By downshifting to decelerate you are trading wear on your brake pads for wear on your clutch (among other things). Brake pads are much cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch. Personally, having done both, I'd rather do 50 brake jobs before I'd do one clutch job.


6

Donovan's is the only answer that has any truth in it. Downshifting and engine braking will have NO effect on the clutch, as you don't slip the clutch it doesn't wear out the engine, as you use the compression stroke and it is far better on tyres and handling as any advanced driving instructor would tell you. It is just more difficult, as you need to ...


6

Might need better tires, may need bigger brakes. Make sure you're using appropriate tires for the load and conditions. Consider trying better brake pads or possibly upgrading to a big brake kit. Perhaps better brake cooling (such as cool air ducts) would help. First you're going to have to identify the weakest component in the list so that you can ...


6

Think of it this way. If you need to brake so incredibly hard that you're worried the automatic transmission is getting in the way, you're better off worrying about things besides whether or not you're in neutral. You're probably about to crash or lose control, so train yourself to concentrate on steering, or making sure you're arms are out of the way of ...


6

Although automated manuals are becoming more popular, the 2012 Civic (from my 2 seconds of searching) appears to be a normal automatic. Even still, I'm guessing your vehicle may have the sensors and programming necessary to determine that it's descending an incline and is employing engine braking to help you slow down. What it sounds like it's doing is ...


4

Tires are going to be the biggest change you can implement. The widest, stickiest tires you can get for your conditions. Typically, any car can lock its tires up under normal conditions (average load, speeds). If it can do this, the braking system is more than adequate, and the tires are the first thing you should change. Now, when you start upgrading ...


4

I found this description of synthetic based brake fluids. According to the page, all brake fluids are technically "synthetic" in that they are man made and do not contain a petroleum base. "Synthetic" brake fluid, as we think of it, has a silicon base. Non-synthetic brake fluid (normal brake fluid) is glycol based. There are trade offs to each type. Silicon ...


3

This sounds like utter nonsense to me. Try this experiment. Get up to a set speed (e.g. 60 mph) and then let your foot off the gas pedal and time how long it takes you to get down to a low speed (e.g. 20 mph) "coasting" in gear. Now, repeat the experiment putting the automatic transmission in neutral at the same time you take your foot off the gas, so that ...


3

If this is a vehicle that you just bought it is possible that the brakes just aren't as good as your previous vehicle. From the information I could get online, this vehicle is equipped with drum type rear brakes. The problem may be that they are not adjusted correctly. Although the front discs do the majority of the braking ,the rear brakes must be adjusted ...


3

There are a few things that you can do to gain better braking ability. Upgrade your brake lines Vehicles from factory usually come with stock rubber brake lines. Upgrading to stainless steel brake lines will lead to less 'gummy' feel when you step on the brakes. This also has the added effect of allowing more even pressure to be put on the brakes. ...


3

The newer the car the better ABS tends to be, but you can lock up even the best ones if you try hard. On sheet ice it is safer to disable your ABS entirely unless you have a system which is designed for these conditions. After seeing a bad crash where a long slide into a collision was caused by ABS not allowing any grip, I remove the fuse for ABS each ...


3

If you can get all 4 to lock at the same time then systems that detect differences between wheels won't activate. The system would have to be smart enough to detect exceptionally fast stopping of the wheels in order to work in that circumstance. My MR2 and Eclipse are definitely not that smart. Both are very capable of locking all 4 at the same time and ...


3

It's not time that wears the pads off, it's friction. Effect of friction increases with temperature. Braking itself causes brake components to heat up, and cooling of brakes is quite limited. Heavy braking causes lots of heat to build up for which there isn't enough time to dissipate, so the pads will be softer from heat and wear more. In more severe cases, ...


2

You are 100% putting wear and tear on your engine plus transmission. Not only that but you're also increasing the wear on your clutch. Having said that, I rev match every time I downshift. This still puts wear and tear on the components but not as much as physically slowing the car down when bringing it down a gear. Brake pads are cheaper and easier to ...


2

I think this is top 10, if ignore the left whell +(there is a left wheel version) Nissan 350Z + Skyline R34 GT-T Nissan Silvia S13 Nissan Silvia S14 Bmw M3 E30 Mazda + RX-7 (FD3S) Nissan 180SX/200SX + Nissan Silvia S15 Bmw M3 E46 + Toyota Altezza


2

I thinks it's related on your motivation and why you want car for drifting. For me the best solution is Nissan Silvia S15, it's powerful and flexible car. Adding some suspensions and other parts will allow you to win any race you want. If you are good racer. BMW M3 (E46) is good one too. But remember, at first learn to leave your not such a powerful car at ...


2

It sounds like something is binding or dragging. If you've recently changed the brakes, that would be my first suspect. Does the steering pull to either side? If so, does it always do so, or only under braking, which would suggest one side binding? Carefully bring the back of your hand to each wheel after a drive - does it feel hot? Is the heat ...


2

When my car was just about 10 years old, I was braking VERY hard (hardest I'd ever pushed on the brake pedal) coming off a straight into a sharp 90 left and I heard/felt a soft "pop". The brake pedal dropped even lower and I lost a small amount of braking capacity. Turns out one of the seals in the master cylinder blew out. Fortunately they've been ...


2

Your brake system's balance can fall into several areas of concern: The calipers in and of themselves have sliders and pistons that can cause uneven pressure. sliders: I always remove, clean and grease the sliders first, be mindful that some vehicles actually have rubber on the sliders that will swell over time and cause lockup/drag... just replace the ...


2

Check the condition of the brake flexi hoses. These perish over time, and can often clug inside, effectively either locking the relevant brake on or preventing it from applying fully, thus casuing the car to pull to the side. Suspension bushes can be worn enough to cause issues without being bad enough to move by hand - try using a small lever to move them ...


2

If you double-clutch the downshifts and ensure that the engine is running at exactly the right speed before you engage the clutch, any additional wear will be insignificant. Double-clutching will, if done properly, eliminate any additional wear of the synchronizers and if the engine is running at just the right speed before you engage the clutch after the ...


2

First stop driving it, it is potentially an accident waiting to happen. Any shaking, banging, wobbling etc should be addressed immediately. A couple of things come to mind. A bad wheel bearing can cause all the symptoms you describe along with an intermittent ABS light if the bearing has enough play in it (the hub wiggles enough to move the rotor away from ...


2

Preface I ended up doing a fair bit of thinking and research on this, so I figure I may as well write up what I found. Thanks all those who responded, particularly BobCross. In the end though, I wanted an answer that went beyond calling a car a mystery box on balloons - I asked this question because I actually want to understand it. Intro - Tires Given ...


2

EBD is the most important part of the braking system. You can have ABS or not (older cars did't have it) but you can't drive without EBD. Older cars were equipped with the mechanical brake force regulator that has similar functionality as the EBD nowadays. In short EBD is responsible for keeping the rear wheels from locking while braking. The rule is that ...


2

Even high performance cars can't stop on a penny - the brakes have to do work and turn the kinetic energy in to heat. There will be a maximum rate at which this work can be done - if you fitted bigger, more powerful brakes then these in turn, would put a greater load on the tyres and demand more from the suspension too (the suspension has to put weight on ...


2

One of the factors that influence the cost of replacement rotors is mass. Basically we are talking weight. Over the last couple of decades rotors have gotten cheaper and lighter. The rotor is lighter because it has less material. I buy the heaviest rotors I can get the specs on. This was actually part of a marketing campaign by NAPA several years ago. They ...



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