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2

Sounds like the the parking brake mechanism that pushes against the parking brake pads has seized, probably due to wear/corrosion/brakedust. I would take it apart and apply a very thin amount of high temp anti-seize to the joints. If this is the case you might also feel the brake shudder at certain speeds too because it should be the same as driving around ...


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I would have the front wheels bearings checked. A bad bearing can cause sensor misalignment and the ABS to activate. You may also have an issue with the power brake booster. The booster uses engine generated vacuum to assist with pedal effort. A leaking vacuum line may be reducing the vacuum and increase the pedal effort required to stop.


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There is No Such thing as coincidence. The brakes felt the same before and after the new pads because the pads were NOT the problem causing the soft pedal. This is likely ABS related issue 99% of the time. To fix it yourself all you need to do is engage the ABS once or twice. On a deserted road or safe place when traveling at 50 -60 mph Slam as hard as you ...


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Unless you are going to race, the rear brakes are more than adequate whatever type fitted. If you fit a parking brake to a rear disc setup you need either an auxiliary drum or the parking brake will need adjusting very regularly. Jags fitted parking brakes to discs and were a total nuisance. If you drove off without fully releasing the handbrake you had no ...


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No, if you apply additional braking force when the ABS is already active, you will only make the ABS work harder. You won't see an improvement in stopping distance. If you're doing an emergency stop and you need to quickly trim about 2-5 meters off your expected stop, you can use the emergency brake while simultaneously jerking the steering wheel to one ...


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EDIT Brakes must be capable of locking the wheels (with ABS disabled). If the brakes can't provide this force, then there's something wrong. To brake effectively, you must regulate the brakes (or the ABS must) such that the force is just below the amount required to lock the wheel. This is done by intuitively understanding the vehicle's tell (pedal feel) by ...


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Brakes that vibrate when engaged, worse at higher speeds indicates the rotors are warped. This can happen for many reasons, hot brakes and drive through a cold water puddle for example. If the steering wheel shakes when you brake, it is the front brake rotors with the issue. If the steering wheel does not shake it is probably the rear rotors. The mechanic ...


5

No. Your tires locking is based on the static friction of the tires to the road. Once the static friction is overcome, regardless of whether it is from engine braking or normal braking, the tires will lock. EDIT: I'll expand this answer based on the edits. Your tires locking is based on static friction between your tire and the road. Braking on ice ...


2

Your brake pads need to fit exactly in the width of the caliper. You can't have any space there as it might be dangerous if you need to push hard on the brakes. The pads can be a little longer or shorter than your previous ones. If your pads are longer, the surface of the brakes touching the discs will be larger, thus will generate more friction and therfore ...


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If you think there could be an issue with the brakes, you need to have them inspected. You should pull the drum off of the brakes and see what's going on. Check the depth of the friction material on the shoe to ensure there is enough "meat" on them to do the work for you. If you are unfamiliar with how to do it or what to look for, take the car to a trusted ...



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