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5

Sounds exactly like worn brake pads to me. Have you checked those recently? Brake pads actually have a wear tab on them like the one pictured below. This is designed to make noise (that chirping sound) before the brake pads are catastrophically low. The noise would be present almost always while driving as the tab is meant to be in constant contact with the ...


0

I'd put my money on a failed caliper on the opposite (less worn) side. Consider what happens if a brake caliper fails and doesn't apply any clamping force on the rotor. Your car will certainly brake less well, and in order to stop you're going to have to apply more force. The side that functions is going to dissipate all of the car's energy and gets hotter ...


6

I guess finished means completely outworn. This sounds like a seized caliper on that side, which always brakes a little and so wears the pads. It does not have to brake that much that you notice it, but typical signs are a hotter wheel on the one side compared to the other side after some (especially fast) driving and a wobbling noise which often occurs ...


0

(I have used this answer on several questions for chevy truck brake issues) I have a 97 suburban, so I believe things are very similar. I too have replaced lines on this truck and spent hours of time and over a gallon of fluid trying to get it bled correctly. A couple things that I've learned and have helped. Bench bleed the master. Remove the lines, ...


1

If bleeding the brakes as normal isn't working you need a scantool with bi directional controls. And do an automated bleed or have the ABS module pulse the bypass modulator valve. This is required on Chevy trucks when replacing the ABS, the master cylinder or when the master cylinder goes empty.


1

Some cars allow the air bubble to run out naturally, but it is rare, so you'll need an assistant. Basically you need to apply a pressure on a brake pedal, better if you press it a few times so it becomes harder. Then you need to hold a pedal down and undo the nipple using a 7 or 8 mm spanner. Usually 1/2 of a turn is enough. The nipple is located at the top ...


0

I agree with all the recommendations given as certain makes of cars have rear calipers that tend to seize up when not used regularly and only on short journeys at low speeds. I.e. And depending on how quickly it is noticed you may not have to replace the bearings discs(rotors)and pads as we'll.my cars were Audi 100,Honda shuttle,Toyota Prius.At the end of ...


2

This shield has several purposes: Water splash shield Dust, rock and dirt shield It directs cooling air over the rotors and pads. This means that rotor cooling could be significantly affected due to changes in cooling air routing. Increased water splash could increase the possibility of shock cooling of the rotors. Large particles such as small stones ...


1

It protects brake disks from dust and mud. Brake pads will wear out much faster without it. IMHO, cutting will not harm anything.


3

So here's what I've learned in the past couple of days. Apparently there is a simple way of assessing the condition of brake discs/rotors. For every car there is a minimum thickness for the brake discs. Once they get below that thickness it's safe to say that they're past their lifetime. For my specific model (Fiat Punto 2001 Sporting) that thickness is 10....


3

You will want to use a vacuum pump to remove any remaining air in your system Using a hand vacuum pump, you can get a low end one, will remove the frustration of bleeding brakes with two people. One to pump the brake one to open the bleeding nipple on the calipers and master cylinder. If your pedal is going to the floor after servicing your hydraulic ...


1

Keep in mind as I answer here that I have no idea how Fiats are set up as far as brakes go, but I wouldn't think that front brake disc replacement would be necessary in your situation. However, this is based on the assumption that your front brake discs are actually in good working order. On most cars that I have worked on, the hand brake is implemented into ...


2

From HandyHowie's comment above, it could be the start pinion rattling against the flywheel under certain conditions (deceleration as you described). This interference could be cause by improperly placed starter mounting bolts/brackets, or bolts that were not fully torqued, allowing the starter to move. Drivelines have small tolerances of flexibility, which ...


5

Just because the callipers have had a rebuild does not necessarily mean that they were abused previously. Brakes as a component are prone to some of the worst wear of any component in the car. Not only do they go through tremendous heat cycles, the various chemicals in the brake pads can eventually eat at the aluminium that many callipers are made from. ...


3

You need to have positive pressure in the brake lines to get rid of any air; the pumping ensures you've built up enough pressure. And if the other sites you've read didn't mention it, you repeat the process (pump, hold, loosen bleeder valve while maintaining pressure on the pedal, close bleeder valve) until a solid stream of brake fluid comes out; that is ...


3

Brake dust on the rims is normal, although not usually after a short trip. It sounds like you probably have a stuck caliper. Did you replace the pads and rotors yourself? If so, did you lubricate the caliper pins? If not, get some caliper lube (the pads I usually buy come with a foil pouch of it, not sure if all do) and use it liberally on the pins. Remove ...


3

went back and they bled the brakes again after telling me they were good twice and now they work like they did before the master cylinder went bad. Problem solved.


6

There's air in the lines from the sounds of it, likely from them not correctly bleeding the system. An air bubble in the system will compress before the rest of the fluid in the lines, thus not actuating the brake callipers. If you don't have the tools to bleed your brakes at home, you should take it back to the workshop and get them to asap.


2

I was driving this car around yesterday quite a bit with no problems, when I stopped to go into a store for a few minutes. If you really wanted to try to reproduce it, you could try doing that again. but I would suggest doing it in a safe place, like driving around a parking lot for a whiiilee.... I drove around the corner to where I was going with ...


0

Sounds to me like a master cylinder, but hard to say with total certainty. Honestly though, it's worth it to swap you MC rather than getting in a wreck. The part is less than $100 (in my area). Just my 2 cents. :)


0

I had something similar happen in a 2000 Saturn LS2 (or L200) and it was a problem with the brakes and struts. Certainly a General Motors problem and not the first time I have heard of this. If the car is in the USA, check the VIN number with safercar.gov to see if its in a recall, or find an independent mechanic too check it over. I hope it helps. I am not ...


9

This is acceptable practice. Low quality brake pad backing plate edges can be very rough and the dimensions are often off spec. Higher quality pads usually have a better formed edge that fits correctly. As long as there are not rust flakes causing "rust jacking" under the pad end shims and the end shims are in good shape it is OK to file off the high spots ...


4

You may want to jack it up and check the brakes and look to see if the fluid is coming from the brakes. It would be on the tire or the wheel on the inside. Look it over and try to pinpoint the origin of the fluid leak first. While it is up, check for any looseness by moving the tire left - right and up-down. You could have a bad caliper, bad wheel bearing ...



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