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2

That sounds very much (no, it sounds exactly) like either of two things: either the brake fluid in the master cylinder is very low, or the master cylinder has failed. If anything else were the cause (caliper or wheel cylinder failure, line leakage), then you'd find brake fluid either on the ground or on the inboard surface of one of your tires.


2

You can disconnect the handbrake cable at its brake disc end. If the sprung lever now snaps fully back to its stop, then you have a faulty hanbrake cable. If the lever does not spring back, spraying it with a WD40 type of spray and work the lever through its full movement until it frees off. If it refuses to free off, an after-market rebuilt unit would be ...


0

Had the same problem with my bike took it to the local mechanic Turns out the break pads had worn out a lot and needed replacement and the brake piston seal had been overextended so the seal was damaged too


-1

Sounds like you just had a speed sensor go bad, Just happens sometimes. It happened to me on my suburban. it caused my front passenger brake caliper to grab and release realy fast.


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When you operate the parking/e-brake its cable pulls a lever in the brake shoe assembly which rotates the star wheel adjuster to take up any free play inside of the drum. It incorperates a bi-metal strip which prevents adjustment of the shoes when the brakes are hot. If this is not working the brakes will jam on when the brakes cool, because of expansion an ...


1

Zaid has covered the mechanism of the gearlever and its switch and relay. The speedo is made up of a driving wheel on the transmission output, which is an interferance fit, which can go bad, and not do any driving of the speedo transducer. The speedo driving wheel drives the transducer, which gives out a sequence of pulses to the ECU to give a 'speedo ...


1

Interesting, how some of these older threads get bumped back to the top for reasons I can't spot... The problem at hand isn't with that truck, or its brakes, or its tires. The problem is with the tiles - they were never laid correctly in the first place, or they would not have begin breaking. Tiles for an application like this need to be (1) laid over a ...


1

Brake pad and discs are a well practised bread and butter job. Your problem can only be because of: Wrong or defective parts, incorrect fitting damage such as not using a caliper piston retraction tool, incorrect re-assembly of shims and bolts and anti-rattle springs, previous damage or mis-alignment being masked by the old pad wear, a foreign body ...


3

I've done countless brake jobs at the shop I worked at; without hearing/seeing the car here are some things that can cause noise/pulsating: Non-burnished brakes - like others have stated after putting fresh pads and rotors on a car you need to 'break them in.' I worked in a shop for a while and we didn't always do everything by the book, but when putting ...


1

Paul, I'd like you to open up those brakes again and examine the rotors very carefully. I just finished a conversation with a fella who described symptoms identical to yours. I walked him through a range of troubleshooting steps until finally I was nearly convinced that he had a cracked CV joint boot and he needed to replace an axle shaft when he suddenly ...


3

More than likely you didn't bed your brakes correctly. If you read this from Centric Parts, you find out exactly what I'm talking about. The specific part I'm talking about is the portion on an even transfer layer: Note the emphasis on the word even, as uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder ...


1

I can't say for sure without a photo but in many cases it is rust on the hub. Many rotors have an extra hole machined in the rotor. It is usually located between two of the stud holes. I am not sure of why it is there, perhaps to help balance the rotor or to aid in the machining process. What can occur is that a small amount of rust will form on the hub ...



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