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If it's a rhythmic noise which repeats regularly, but slows down as the car slows down, first I'd look for a warped disc or drum.


The fuel system and throttle body were dirty. I flushed Seafoam through via the oil, gas tank, and vacuum line. I also cleaned the throttle body, and the engine runs/idles perfectly clean.


That doesn't sound normal to me, I can't see how low pads or worn discs could cause problems with the calipers (unless they were so worn that they were causing metal-on-metal braking and the extra heat caused problems, but then you'd have known something about it by the horrific noises it would have been making)


Caravan and trailor manufacturers use a variety of brands for brakes, axles and hubs stubs and rims. These could be surplus car items or purpose made for trailers. For example Trojan http://www.trojan.co.nz/stub-kits-disc-c-23_26.html Some details about the make, model, year, and country of origin of your caravan might help identify them. Also photos of ...


As far as the battery issue goes - one other thing to check is the battery connections. Open the hood and look at the battery connections and feel with your hand if the two wires (positive and ground) are fixed securely to the terminals. A loose cable can cause intermittent problems because the normal motion of the car (going over bumps, etc.) can move/jog ...


After jump starting the car, turn on the head lights, heater, rear windscreen heater etc. if they all operate correctly, e.g the lights are full brightness and the heater fan sounds like it is running at normal speed, then your alternator is fine and the problem is your battery. If the lights are dim, then the fault is the alternator. After totally ...


You seem to have several concerns here, so let me try to address them one at a time. You are worried about the car starting up properly. Since the engine would not turn over when you tried to start it, then it started right away with a jump start, it sounds like it was only the battery you need to worry about. Either you left a light on or something else ...


Often the calipers are replaced in pairs for the following reasons: If you need one the other is not far behind. If one caliper is stronger or weaker than the other you may have a brake pull (vehicle pulls to one side when braking). Back in the day when the phenolic piston was introduced it was said that both of your calipers needed to have a piston made ...


There is no need for replacing the callipers together, as they will be heavy on your pocket, the reason why the pads and rotors are replaced together is since they work in tandem and working by rubbing against each other. The callipers on the other hand float over the entire assembly so there is no real point of changing them. You might need to change ...


Generally you don't replace calipers in pairs, only replace the damaged side. With that being said you may still not need to replace the caliper to solve your problem depending on the design. Their may be a kit that comes with new sleeves, o-rings, and grease. Replacing those will solve the problem, but again it depends on make, model, year.


Just to be clear there is a lot that could be wrong with this car. For starters when you took apart the front brakes and replaced the side pins and lubricated them did you check that the piston was able to be pushed back into the caliper? Have you tried bleeding the brakes? Could be that a hose or line is screwed up causing pressure to be applied even when ...


I have not change the rotors in my car since I bought it. My car has more 110,000 mi and it is 12 years old and every time a mechanic tells me I need to change rotors I tell them that I only want the pads, I follow the manufacturer specs and I have not any problems so far. I will be prepare to change the rotors in my next replacement of brake pads. When my ...

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