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The decision to replace is largely based on the thickness. The repair manual should tell you the minimum thickness, below which you should replace the rotors when doing the repair. Use a pair of calipers and measure the rotor thickness, if you're below this number you need to replace the rotors. You may also wish to replace the rotors if you have ...

Cars falling off jackstands are no fun. If you're careful you can heat up the rotor with a torch prior to whacking it with a heavy mallet. If you're not careful, you run the risk of warping the rotor (which is ok if you're getting a new one). Don't try this near fuel lines or the gas tank.

The braking surfaces of a rotor require precision machining. The tolerances are in the .002" range. You would never come close without a quality lathe. Each manufacturer also has specifications for minimum total thickness, side to side variance for vented rotors, the smoothness of the finish and run-out which is the difference between the highest and lowest ...

You're going to have to bed the brakes in properly. Be very careful. http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm follow these instructions (at your own risk). A friend had a similar car as yours (IS300) and had the same problem. Once I bedded the rotors in, noise was minimized.

There are three cases that cause brake rotors to need to be resurfaced/turned and/or replaced. Gouging of the rotor by the brake pad holding mechanism (the pad were rubbed completely away and the metal holding the pad start digging into the rotor) Warping of the rotor from extreme use (rotor gets too hot and warps upon cooling) The rotor itself wears down ...

Improper wheel nut torque, use a torque wrench, or an impact wrench with torque sticks to put on the wheels. Rapid cooling such as running through water with the brakes hot is also suppose to cause it. Cheap pads, they breakdown under heat and leave deposits on the rotor surface. Ball joints should not cause the rotors to warp. Example of Torque sticks ...

It's probably that the pads need bedding in as NoCarrier says. However, my sister-in-law once had her brakes start squealing even though there was plenty of pad left, and the problem ended up being a small stone that got stuck between the pad backing plate and the rotor, in front of the edge of the pad.

Assuming there is not a screw holding it on (your experience with the other side tells you this), just give it a solid smack with a hammer. When I worked for Mercedes, it was not uncommon to need a 2-lb sledge to knock the disc loose. We would use two hands and swing really hard sometimes.. never heard of a messed up bearing from that. Of course, this ...

In my experience when removing the old type of brake hubs you would need to hit quite hard without that hurting the bearings. You might try spraying the disc with WD-40 and let that soak in for a bit and then knocking it again with a hammer. You would wan't to spray mostly around the bolts that fasten the wheel since there is most likely some corosion there ...

In a word, accuracy! A lathe as used by a mechanic will have the precision required, and the instrumentation available, to ensure the rotors are turned evenly. You'd be surprised at how much vibration you can get at 70mph from the smallest inconsistencies in rotor height - and how much you lose in stopping power!

Wow, I'm in the minority here. It is my firm belief that you should have your rotors turned with every brake pad/shoe replacement! If you do not do this everything will work perfectly fine, until you apply the brakes then if your brake rotors/drums were glazed, heavily scored or worn out of parallel to the new brake pad your will stopping distance WILL be ...

What you're describing sounds unusual. In an ideal situation, when you brake, even if you lock up the tires, you're going to continue moving in the same direction unless some outside force acts upon the car. To spin a car 180 degrees requires a mechanical malfunction, or an outside force. Start with the tires: are they the same on all 4 corners, and ...

The main reason for reoccurring warping seems to be (form what I've read) "imprinting" your pads on the rotors: fully applying the brake on a very hot rotor for an extended period of time (a few seconds), thus leaving behind a deposit film that causes the warping problems. Maybe your pad is dragging on the forward rotor, causing it to heat up? With the way ...

As already stated, get the estimate on paper with parts and labor broken down. Go to another shop and get an estimate, tell them reasons related to your car of why you want the estimate, not "i have this estimate, can you do better". If you've noticed vibration under heavy braking, noises or just reached the number of miles where you want them checked for ...

This sound usually comes from resonance when pads sharp edge touches the disc slightly or a small piece of stone stuck on the pad. Usually it's not serious and will go by itself after braking several dozen of times, but if you want to be safe - get the car to the service-shop and ask them to take a look and maybe grind the pads sharp edge. Other more ...

You could try applying anti-seize lubricant to the backs of the brake pads. Also consider lubricating other places where the brake pad backing plate could rub against the caliper. Just make sure to keep it off the braking surfaces. This has the side benefit of preventing the pads from rusting onto the caliper, making future maintenance easier. I typically ...

To me it sounds like you need to get some practice in a safe location, preferably with a trained expert, at breaking. There are driver safety classes that you can take which will give you experience at braking at, but not over, the limit of adhesion, and vehicle dynamics such as weight transfer and spin prevention. In particular, you need to make it second ...

I don't know about your model but most discs I've encountered have a couple of threaded holes in the hub part. They are often clogged with general road crud, so you may need to scrub the disc hub down to find them. If yours have such holes get a couple of bolts to match and screw them in, as evenly as practical. This will push the disc off the axle.

There are many reasons for squeaky brakes. The usual cause, is whoever replaced your brake pads used pads that are a slightly different material than the original pads. A fairly reliable way to prevent this is to use pads recommended by Chrysler. It could also be the rotors, it's never a bad idea to replace the rotors the same time as the pads if you want ...

Along with the already mentioned and more common reasons of Gouges, Warped or being too thin there is another reason for getting them turned/resurfaced. When using some higher quality brake pads, they will tell you if you are changing from one pad compound to another (either changing brands or product lines) to use new or re-surfaced rotors. This comes ...

I had this same thing happen with a 98 Ford Escort. I also tried all the anti-chatter/noise goo they sell at the parts stores. Nothing worked, until I replaced the pads with ceramics. Be warned though, that they may accelerate the wear of your rotors. For me this wasn't a deal breaker as the brake screech was intolerable.

I echo others’ recommendations about driving technique. If you apply more braking force than the tires can apply to the road, the tires will lock up and skid. Trying to steer and brake at the same time splits the available traction among competing activities, making a skid more likely. As for mechanical changes you can make: tires with adequate tread are ...

I'm going to say yes, you should replace those springs, especially the broken one.... Some Googling indicates that springs fitting your description are still in use and you should be able to mail order them.

Most brake pads use some sort of shim or spring to stop the pad from oscillating,aka making noise. What generally causes the noise is a small amount of movement by the pad at a very high frequency. Manufacturers eliminate this with shims,springs or a soft material that acts as a dampener. It is possible that one of these has failed from time,use or ...

One possibility is that your new pads haven't fully "bedded in", or mated with the rotors, and/or that these new pads don't do as effective a job of cleaning the rust off of the rotors in your normal driving. One thing to try in situations like this before you spend any additional money is to find a quiet back road, and do a number of repeated hard stops ...

If the rattle is like a shimmying in the steering column, it's probably a warped rotor. But if it really is a rattle, take a flashlight and poke around under that wheel to see if your cv boot is ripped or if you can see any damage to the joints leading to the wheel. It may also be helpful to have someone else hit the brakes while you look to see how they ...

Check the prices for the parts and the labor, and you should probably get a 2nd estimate, because that does seem a bit high, but I don't know what else is included in the service you mention. Dealers generally have higher prices, and often you can get similar quality parts much cheaper from other sources. For example, I looked up rotors for a 2008 Honda ...

Remove the dust cap in the center of the hub (in the middle of the wheel stubs) remove the cotter pin (replace with new one on installation) remove the nut lock and then the nut. You should be able to pull the whole assembly off (rotor and hub) from the back side you should be able to get to the bolts that hold the rotor on the hub. Install in the reverse ...

In an emergency situation, if you don't have ABS (anti-lock brake system), you could use the pump-technique (simulated ABS, albeit at a much slower rate), as you might during wintery conditions. Instead of slamming and holding the brake pedal down, you want to press and depress as rapidly as you can. If you have ABS then you do not want to use this technique ...