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15

Sandblasting your frame is fine. Sandblasting your body or any panel can be debated until the pigs fly home. People have been doing it for decades, and get by. However, when you sandblast your body/panels, you run the risk of creating more metal/bodywork for you to do in your restoration. This is because the heat from the sandblaster can warp the panels. ...


12

I'd be asking if the car was put on a chassis rig when it was repaired. If it's even had just one day on a rig, it was clearly enough of an impact that made the assessor/repairer think it might be a write-off. If it wasn't put on a chassis rig, the next thing to look at are signs of welding along the forward chassis, particularly radiator support and crash ...


10

Definitely worry about the quote including blending in of the paint (or the lack thereof). With metallic paint, if you only paint the panel that is getting replaced, you will be able to see that the panels seem to be a different color under certain light because the reflection of the metallic particles in the paint occurs at a different angle between the ...


10

Sand blasting is perfectly safe for the metal, especially considering the heavier panels used in classic cars. However, it's less safe for the person doing the sandblasting, due to the higher levels of lead paint and bodywork used in old cars. Pure lead was often used to fill dents and body seams in older cars, and you can imagine what breathing a cloud of ...


8

According to the Material Safety Data Sheet the hazardous ingredient is listed as Styrene. I would recommend you wear a respirator and some good gloves. Some import points from the MSDS: Signs of Overexposure: Nausea, cough, dizziness, weakness, headache, chest pain, lack of coordination, shortness of breath, dermatitis, redness and/or pain in eyes. ...


8

You can, but probably not in the way you're thinking. You can't just go out and buy a can of "red spray paint", unless you are prepared to re-paint the whole car in that color or you really don't care about the results. This is because your car isn't "red" (for example), it's "Sierra Red (L D3V)". However, if you go to a professional paint supply shop you ...


8

You said "the dealer tells me that the car was likely rebuilt." The dealer should know for a fact that the car was rebuilt and issued a salvaged title, if not, walk away. On top of that, if the seller is slow, hesitant, or unwilling to comply with any of your requests for information about, or access to the vehicle, walk away. The most common damage in deer ...


7

That's the B-Pillar, the one at the front that the windshield is attached too is the A-Pillar, the one at the back after the rear door is the C-Pillar, if there was one behind that like in a station wagon or SUV it would be the D-Pillar and so on. More info here


7

Bodywork is something that cannot be rushed. While others are suggesting chemicals that may be suited for this application, it is not necessarily going to be a solution to your problem. The most important part of bodywork/painting is preparation and cleanliness. I cannot stress this enough. When applying bondo, fibreglass, spot putty, primer, paint, ...


7

I would use epoxy primer to start. You can then spray paintable undercoat on your frame, underbody. They come in various forms as depicted in the image below. You may also use a rocker guard type product as shown. To my personal taste, I would seal with epoxy primer, rubberized undercoat, and then oil undercoating to protect even further. Application ...


6

tl;dr: You will almost certainly notice no effect at all other than the loss of fuel economy due to the increased weight. It is very unlikely that a splitter or diffuser will have any measurable benefit unless you are driving a car that is: Very low to the ground over a ... Very smooth surface at a ... Very high speed. Needless to say, the street is not ...


6

Must be a location based thing, but in the UK sand hasn't been used for many years due to the very real dangers of inhaling even small amounts of silica from the bashed up sand. Although folks still call it 'sandblasting', in reality it's 'media blasting' and the media varies from tiny plastic or glass beads to ground up walnut shells (believe it or not!). ...


5

The right side looks like it has a small crease. You may be able to get it to look better but I don't think it will be perfect without some filling and painting. You can try covering the filler opening with some heavyduty plastic and installing the gascap. Hook the fuel outlet up to an air compressor. Gradually increase the pressure to see if the dent will ...


5

Sand down the paint around the hole, apply a few layers of zinc spray followed by a few layers of new paint (with primer, if necessary) with 1 or 2 layers of clearcoat on top. Make sure you cover the edges well and check the edge regularly to see if any rust occurs. Make sure you wait long enough between each layer for optimal protection, check the label ...


5

I would believe most body shops will do the work with you bringing them the parts. I recently had to replace the bumper on my Mo-n-Law's car. I bought one online, took it to the body shop, they painted it, and I brought it home and installed it. They charged me a set price for getting it painted. There was no issue with them doing this. Since you said the ...


5

tl;dr: It depends on the ding. Try some cleaner wax, though: it won't make the problem worse. Did you scratch down to the primer or just leave some paint behind? If all you did was trade some paint between cars, you're going to need to polish it off. That said, if you're not comfortable with power polishing tools or abrasive polishes, I would counsel a ...


5

I recommend looking for a replacement side panel. Otherwise the standard panel beating approach is to try and hammer out the worst of the dents first. Car bog/filler/bondo is a last step to fill minor imperfections. This is harder than it sounds. Panels that have been creased or stretched seldom pop back to thier original position. Judging by your photo the ...


5

I believe this is the part you need to worry about: It is the rear bumper support and can be found under the bumper cover. As far as how imperative it is to fix, it all depends on the amount of damage which was done. You really need to take the bumper cover off to get a good look at the damage to this piece. You could probably get away with not replacing ...


5

Think of dent-pulling like sculpting. Examine the area you need to work on. The wide creased pads will create a pinched like pull, while others will create rounder or more narrow pulls. 1. How do I choose the right shape, size and texture? Study the surface around the dent. Make sure you understand the panels geometry. For body lines you will want to use ...


5

Yes, sand blasting is safe if you're safe Safety is variable. What is safe? Almost anything can be safe. Exploding bombs can be safe, it just depends on the process you implement for your safety and the safety of others. Is sand blasting safe? Not if you sand blast with dioxin laced sand, but even then, you can wear a pressure suit and possibly ...


4

I don't think either tool would be suitable, especially if you don't have any experience doing bodywork. The first one needs a fairly large reasonably flat area to attach itself to and given the way the metal is caved in you might end up pulling at the wrong point. The slide hammer needs the 'nails' welding to the metal so unless you have the tools for ...


4

A VIN derivative on a bumper? Really? I find that hard to believe. Even if it's true, no offense, but really, who is going to check for matching numbers on a Ford Focus? Even if they did, they're going to check the engine and transmission, not the bumper. What they are going to check is the CarFax that is going to show the accident, at that point whether ...


4

To you question of finding which body shop is better. If everything was equal I would always pick an independent body shop over a dealer. In my experience dealers typically are overpriced and don't show as much care for a vehicle. For your situation, I would suggest looking for reviews of both places. Look at the addresses in Google Maps and see if ...


4

There are a few ways to resolve this dent issue. Method 1 glue these plastic ding tabs to the gas tank. You can find them by googling "plastic ding tab" You will use a hot glue gun and hot glue them to your gas tank. Use a dent puller slide hammer. The tip should screw into the plastic ding pullers. Pull the weight of the slide hammer to the bottom ...


4

Buy the used parts. $4500 is almost the price of an entire car. If you want to save lots of money, do the paint prep work yourself. You'll need to watch an instructional video on doing it properly, but it's basically LOTS of sanding with various grades of sandpaper and possibly filling dents in with body-filler. It's a long and tedious job, but you'll feel ...


4

I know from experience that the doors like to rust after about 7 years if you're not careful. I don't know of anything else except the usual problems like cracking radiators, blown headgaskets and broken main bearings (usually under #3 piston). Other things that go wrong include the main oil seal and the clutch. If you have a VF39 STI turbo, it might crack ...


4

You can get it covered with epoxy primer. If you have many pits and cavities, it would be best to go over the areas with a wire brush and then shoot your primer. I recommend a wire brush for the pitted areas vs a typical sanding block as it will not penetrate areas with depth. If moisture is trapped in there, expect it to corrode through. It is best to ...


4

Yes Depends on how long it is on there, when the glue dries out it can be hard to remove without damaging the paint (if you need to do remove them for some reason), also the paint will not match anymore as the rest of the car will fade slightly, the paint under the molding will not. See 2


4

Uneven bonnet gaps These are a dead giveaway of a bad repair job - also, check if the gap is too large or small for the car - try and get a photo from a similar angle to one existing to check. Also check door gaps, boot gaps, panel gaps for any misalignment. Check underneath Try and get under the car if you can - if you're mechanically minded you should ...


3

It is a big job but I can't tell you how many hours it will take. The body shop looks up the cost in a estimating guide, and generates and estimate based on that. The differnce in shops is going to be in the parts used, dealer vs aftermarket, amount of parts mark up, the paint system used, and the labor rate the shop charges. Just know how long it should ...



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