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12

Most likely cause for this is that you have some condensation built up overnight on either the belt or one of the pulley wheels, and until this has evaporated the belt will be able to slip a little, causing a squeak. Once the engine warms up, the condensation is gone. With a new, well tensioned belt, this shouldn't matter, however belts age and stretch, ...


10

The main cause of a squeaky belt is the rubber has stretched causing a reduction in friction allowing the slippage to occur. There are two ways to solve the problem: Tighten the belt by using the appropriate tensioning technique (generally loosening the bolt that hold the pulleys in position, realigning the now-loosened pulley & retightening the ...


9

It sounds like your alternator has not been tightened enough and the serpentine belt is slipping because of it. Since you have new belts on your engine, this is probably about the only thing which it can be. If you press on the belt with your thumb at the center of the long portion of the belt (between pulleys), you should get no more than about 1/2" inch of ...


9

V belts are traditionally found in older motors, where you would have a series of those belts coming off the crankshaft, each to their own individual accessory group (alternator, a/c compressor, etc). See how the belts are staggered? Serpentine belts are much thicker by comparison and generally unify all accessories under one belt system.


8

Firstly, the comments made by others are correct. The power used by each of the components listed will vary on a component by component basis and even on an installation by installation basis. The power used by each component will also vary depending on the speed that it is running at. Also the number and type of components will vary from car to car. With ...


7

Very carefully hold a large crayon,yellow works best, like a lumber yard might use against the edge of the belt while the motor is running.If the squeel stops you know its an alignment problem.The wax in the crayon will lubricate the belt and stop the noise.Try one side then the other.If you are lucky the yellow will be left on the misaligned pulley and show ...


6

Checking the run-out of the crankshaft is pretty straight forward. A dial indicator is temporarily mounted to a fixed point close to the crank. The indicator arm is set to touch the crankshaft. While turning the crankshaft by hand you will get a reading on the indicator of how many thousands of an inch the crankshaft is moving off of center. Your mechanic ...


5

It sounds to me like it was just worn out. You should be able to turn the alternator and a/c compressor pulleys by hand. I'd replace the tensioner if it hasn't been done already anyway, and with a new tensioner, fitting a new belt should be fairly easy* as you can fit it with the tensioner un-tensioned. However, if the auxiliary belt hasn't been changed ...


5

Unless the compressor is on a belt by itself, you don't want to remove the belt. Water pumps, alternators and power steering are nice things to have. An A/C delete/bypass pulley for your application would be a way to go, but it will involve pulling the compressor. Probably the easiest thing to do is locate the appropriate relay and pull it. If it's the ...


4

So, bear with me on this and maybe I can help. Mind you, none of what I'm going to say is going to be easy to do, but that is because your issue is not an easy one to solve. The main problems I see here with any solution is alignment and distance from any mounting point I can discern. My main thought here is you need to get the alternator connected back to ...


4

V belts also derive their name from the cross-section of the belt itself. In the first photo above a V belt will ride in grooves on the pulleys. Serpentine belts don't have this same cross-section because as you can see in the 2nd photo both sides of the belt come in contact with various pulleys. Get ready for some awesome ASCII artwork of a V belt cross ...


4

Assuming the belt has correct tension and still squeaks it's rare to find anything more than a short term solution, other than replacing it. However, if you really want to give something a try, most industrial suppliers can sell you a can of "belt grip" compound, which is sprayed onto the contact surfaces of the belt and/or pulleys while they're rotating ...


4

Alternators aren't built for one engine so the manufacturer can't possibly know the gearing / ratio between the alternator and the engine. Therefore the RPM listed in the spec will be the RPM for the alternator. To calculate the alternators RPM you will need to find the diameter of the alternator pully [a] and the one connected to (presumably) the ...


3

You have partially answered this yourself- you are seeing smoke, which implies the bearings are getting hot. So they could start a fire. Or in seizing up the fan could cause your wiring to catch fire. Or you could end up with a cabin full of dangerous fumes... etc You could do permanent damage, yes. Pay close attention and you might be okay. Personally, ...


3

Your 'double wheel turning the belts' is called the crankshaft pulley. Some vehicles have a pulley assembled in two 'halves' and are bonded together to form the crankshaft pulley. In the bonded arrangement it now becomes a 'crankshaft engine damper'. If the bonding becomes detached to any extent the damper will allow and even cause engine vibrations, and ...


3

Your serpentine belt is squealing on the alternator. One of two possible causes for this. Either your serpentine belt is worn out or your tensioner pulley is not doing it's job (tensioning the serpentine belt). The pulley can wear out over time allowing the belt to slip a little. At startup there is a heavy load placed on your alternator, which causes it to ...


2

I would suggest a new shop. It takes a special kind of incompetence to try the same thing 8 times and expect different results. A squeal can be caused by misaligned pulleys, although I've never experienced it. Here is a link describing this on an older Sierra where the power steering pulley is misaligned. Maybe the same deal is possible your water pump ...


2

If you don't have time to deal with it you can try the belt dressing, but I do not recommend it. I've had it happen plenty of times and it has been caused by improper tensioning (too loose). Find out what the proper deflection should be using your shop manual (a must have for proper diy maintenance) and set it. You can purchase a gage, but in my experience ...


2

I eventually discovered there are basically two ways to do this. One is to use the part FossilizedCarlos mentioned, but you must also get an alternator spacer set, or else the brackets do not help much. I had previously purchased the bracket set but couldn't figure out how it was supposed to help. The spacer set is the missing link, although they are hard ...


2

It's quite possible it just broke due to age and wear. I have personally experienced that when the belt wasn't replaced on schedule. If you were in the vehicle when it broke the belt, I'd be surprised if you wouldn't have heard loud unpleasant noises or felt something if it broke due to something seizing up. If it just broke, all you would have noticed ...


2

Cutting the belt will solve your problem as long as the belt doesn't drive any other component. If it's making noise all the time you likely only need to replace the pulley, which may be cost effective. Sometimes it cheaper to replace the the compressor/pulley/clutch combination.


2

I hate to answer my own question but did eventually figure it out. Here are the more complete steps to swap the belt: Prerequisite: locate a belt diagram or draw your own before starting. Remove the plastic engine cover using 10mm ratchet - this will allow easier access to the tensioner / belt on the left side of the engine. Find the bolt head that is ...


2

A Google search revealed several sources for a replacement final drive belt. Getting a replacement should not be a problem. If the current belt is more than five years old or the owner doesn't know how old it is I would replace it soon. The advantages of belt drive are less maintenance, no lubricant is slung off, like on a chain and they are quieter. The ...


2

More than likely the problem is a leaky valve cover gasket. It's just something which happens over time. The old one becomes hard and cracks, thus oil starts dripping. Over time, this collects on the different parts with whatever amount of dirt is available and, voila! You have gunk all over the place. First thing to do is thoroughly clean the affected area ...


2

I take it the above picture of the fan/pulley on the vehicle is not your vehicle, but a photo of the same thing from another vehicle? If it is your vehicle, wrap a belt completely around either ribbed pulley part and hold it on one side to gain purchase (grab both sides of the belt in one place with one hand). Believe me when I say this will give you more ...


2

(NOTE: This answer is predicated upon your engine being a 5S-FE I4 found in many Camrys.) Does this situation cause such engine damage? No. Since your engine is a non-interference motor, it should not suffer damage due to this type of an issue. There may be other things going on, though, which may be the root of what your mechanic is saying is going ...


2

It's more than likely the serpentine belt at the alternator making the noise. One of two things going on here, either the belt itself is worn out, or the tensioner is not providing the preload to the belt to keep it tight. After the belt warms up a little bit, it sticks a little better so the sound goes away. If you haven't replaced the belt in a while, I'd ...


1

I believe you can improvise over the approach shown in this diagram. Instead of using a spanner to 'lock' just one of the pulley bolts, try to use a long implement similar to the "special tool" depicted in the diagram to lock two pulley bolts in place. I have found great success with water-heater mounting brackets since they are thin enough and do not ...


1

I figured it out today. The spark plug in one of the cylinders blew out of the head while driving. The 'squeaking' was actually a whistling as air was pushed passed the spark plug.


1

I'm with R. I believe it's probably a slipping belt. Some cars are notorious for that if the exact OEM belt isn't used. My Mitsubishi is one of those. Off the shelf (even high end, "guaranteed not to slip" type) belts from parts stores like to slip and squeal even when tightened to spec. OEM works fine... That said, I did once have a very similar ...



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