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16

It sounds like your alternator has not been tightened enough and the serpentine belt is slipping because of it. Since you have new belts on your engine, this is probably about the only thing which it can be. If you press on the belt with your thumb at the center of the long portion of the belt (between pulleys), you should get no more than about 1/2" inch of ...


14

Most likely cause for this is that you have some condensation built up overnight on either the belt or one of the pulley wheels, and until this has evaporated the belt will be able to slip a little, causing a squeak. Once the engine warms up, the condensation is gone. With a new, well tensioned belt, this shouldn't matter, however belts age and stretch, ...


11

Firstly, the comments made by others are correct. The power used by each of the components listed will vary on a component by component basis and even on an installation by installation basis. The power used by each component will also vary depending on the speed that it is running at. Also the number and type of components will vary from car to car. With ...


11

Belt vs Chain in Motorcycles It's difficult to say which one is better. Depending on the application, one can be better or not in the particular role. High horsepower applications are not the place of belts and low maintenance is not the place for chains. Applications vary and one is not necessarily better than the other overall. The role of the final ...


10

The main cause of a squeaky belt is the rubber has stretched causing a reduction in friction allowing the slippage to occur. There are two ways to solve the problem: Tighten the belt by using the appropriate tensioning technique (generally loosening the bolt that hold the pulleys in position, realigning the now-loosened pulley & retightening the ...


10

V belts are traditionally found in older motors, where you would have a series of those belts coming off the crankshaft, each to their own individual accessory group (alternator, a/c compressor, etc). See how the belts are staggered? Serpentine belts are much thicker by comparison and generally unify all accessories under one belt system.


9

Unless the compressor is on a belt by itself, you don't want to remove the belt. Water pumps, alternators and power steering are nice things to have. An A/C delete/bypass pulley for your application would be a way to go, but it will involve pulling the compressor. Probably the easiest thing to do is locate the appropriate relay and pull it. If it's the ...


8

Very carefully hold a large crayon,yellow works best, like a lumber yard might use against the edge of the belt while the motor is running.If the squeel stops you know its an alignment problem.The wax in the crayon will lubricate the belt and stop the noise.Try one side then the other.If you are lucky the yellow will be left on the misaligned pulley and show ...


8

So, bear with me on this and maybe I can help. Mind you, none of what I'm going to say is going to be easy to do, but that is because your issue is not an easy one to solve. The main problems I see here with any solution is alignment and distance from any mounting point I can discern. My main thought here is you need to get the alternator connected back to ...


8

Here are a few factors besides the ones already mentioned that don't work in the favor of chains: chains need lubrication. Do we really want another grease/oil in the engine bay? pulleys would have to be replaced with sprockets. If some debris finds its way in the engine bay and lodges itself in a sprocket you can look forward to broken teeth in case ...


8

In an alternator there are two major components; the stator and the rotor. The rotor has a coil wound on it. By applying a current to that coil a magnetic field is formed and then spinning the rotor electricity is excited in the stator. Because the rotor needs to spin while mainaining electrical contact for the coil slip rings are used. There are ...


7

Noise and Cost. It's really that simple. Chains used to be the most common device used for connecting the timing gears. Somewhere across the way someone told the consumer that cars shouldn't make noise and so the cheaper and less reliable belt was used by the manufactures. They did the same with direct drive (gear to gear) when they went to a fiber gear ...


7

Here are some reasons why some manufacturers use belts. Smoothness of the drive: The belt has the quality of putting down the torque of the engine much more smoothly and gradually than the chain counterpart, in a belt driven motorcycle you wont feel the sudden TUG when you twist the throttle.(This is the reason usually cruisers have this design and not the ...


6

Checking the run-out of the crankshaft is pretty straight forward. A dial indicator is temporarily mounted to a fixed point close to the crank. The indicator arm is set to touch the crankshaft. While turning the crankshaft by hand you will get a reading on the indicator of how many thousands of an inch the crankshaft is moving off of center. Your mechanic ...


5

I figured it out today. The spark plug in one of the cylinders blew out of the head while driving. The 'squeaking' was actually a whistling as air was pushed passed the spark plug.


5

V belts also derive their name from the cross-section of the belt itself. In the first photo above a V belt will ride in grooves on the pulleys. Serpentine belts don't have this same cross-section because as you can see in the 2nd photo both sides of the belt come in contact with various pulleys. Get ready for some awesome ASCII artwork of a V belt cross ...


5

Assuming the belt has correct tension and still squeaks it's rare to find anything more than a short term solution, other than replacing it. However, if you really want to give something a try, most industrial suppliers can sell you a can of "belt grip" compound, which is sprayed onto the contact surfaces of the belt and/or pulleys while they're rotating (...


5

It sounds to me like it was just worn out. You should be able to turn the alternator and a/c compressor pulleys by hand. I'd replace the tensioner if it hasn't been done already anyway, and with a new tensioner, fitting a new belt should be fairly easy* as you can fit it with the tensioner un-tensioned. However, if the auxiliary belt hasn't been changed ...


5

That is way too much money for a serpentine belt and a tensioner pulley on any vehicle. If you cannot do this yourself, take it to a different mechanic and have them do it. A serpentine belt is not at all critical to the overall health of the engine. If it fails, you put a new one on. It may be inconvenient after it breaks, but it's not going to ruin ...


5

As the comment says, looking at the web site you posted there seems to be a couple of flavors of engine for your car. So unless we know the displacement (it would say 2.3L V6 for example) we can't say exactly for your car. There are 5 or 6 flavors listed for your car, from a 1.8L 4 cyl, to a 4.0L V8 ( would love to see how this is stuffed into a Passat lol). ...


5

Looking at the routing it may work with a shorter belt. But it may not have enough tension to drive the water pump without slipping. Dorman may make an A/C delete pulley/bracket. Which would keep the original belt routing and length.


5

Try to get hold of a workshop manual; failing that, a Chiltons or Haynes manual for that car. I've just checked the Haynes, and it does show the Alternator replacement in some detail. A couple of major hints; firstly, you get much better access going in through the passenger wheel-well. Take the wheel off, and the plastic shield between the wheel-well and ...


4

Alternators aren't built for one engine so the manufacturer can't possibly know the gearing / ratio between the alternator and the engine. Therefore the RPM listed in the spec will be the RPM for the alternator. To calculate the alternators RPM you will need to find the diameter of the alternator pully [a] and the one connected to (presumably) the ...


4

According to this site (and another site I saw), the change interval for your Subie should be at 105k miles.


4

belt tension I would imagine that the belt is not tightened enough with the tensioner pulley. When you turn on your heat on some cars the air conditioner pump button on the dash will default to on. My son's Hyundai does this. At that time when the pump engages, even though you have it set to heat, added tension is applied to the pulley that turns the air ...


4

Based off this diagram, the adjusting bolt is not present in the pictures you provided: It looks like your Sentra has air-conditioning, which means that your belt tensioning mechanism sits above the power steering pump (leftmost belt-driven component).


3

I hate to answer my own question but did eventually figure it out. Here are the more complete steps to swap the belt: Prerequisite: locate a belt diagram or draw your own before starting. Remove the plastic engine cover using 10mm ratchet - this will allow easier access to the tensioner / belt on the left side of the engine. Find the bolt head that is ...


3

A Google search revealed several sources for a replacement final drive belt. Getting a replacement should not be a problem. If the current belt is more than five years old or the owner doesn't know how old it is I would replace it soon. The advantages of belt drive are less maintenance, no lubricant is slung off, like on a chain and they are quieter. The ...


3

Cutting the belt will solve your problem as long as the belt doesn't drive any other component. If it's making noise all the time you likely only need to replace the pulley, which may be cost effective. Sometimes it cheaper to replace the the compressor/pulley/clutch combination.


3

You have partially answered this yourself- you are seeing smoke, which implies the bearings are getting hot. So they could start a fire. Or in seizing up the fan could cause your wiring to catch fire. Or you could end up with a cabin full of dangerous fumes... etc You could do permanent damage, yes. Pay close attention and you might be okay. Personally, ...



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