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10

The battery is bad. You need to get a replacement ... the one you bought may still be under warranty, though probably pro-rated at this point. More than likely, your current battery has a bad cell in it which doesn't accept the charge it is supposed to. Since batteries are built with multiple cells configured to work in series, one cell is all it takes to ...


6

Most modern diesel engines (ie: engines after mid-80s) require some electricity to run because they are electronically controlled. This is due to computers controlling the fuel charge and monitoring of the engine itself. Without this, the diesel engine has no control. They also require electricity to power the primary fuel pump, to move the fuel from the ...


6

You should not notice any difference. Here's why: 1 hp = 746 W. This means that 60 W is 0.08 hp. The worst possible scenario from a load perspective is at idle. Assuming the engine is outputting a measly 5 hp at idle, the extra load would work out to 1.6 % of this value. The change in fuel consumption is barely sensible.


5

16 mA is very good, many manufactures say 50 - 75 mA is normal. You may have an intermittent parasitic draw. Something may be energizing at some point and drain the battery. One way to test this theory would be to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for 3 days. Hook the battery back up, if it cranks without a jump it's a parasitic draw, if it doesn't ...


5

It will have to be fixed before you drive it very far. If the battery light is on the alternator is not charging, your not going to make it very far before the battery goes dead. Your local parts store will be able to test the alternator on the car, most if not all will do it for free. Based on the battery light I am confident it's the alternator, but ...


5

The Auxiliary Battery in your Prius is a VRLA battery, either Lead Calcium Battery, or AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt). I believe 2007 used the AGM. They are similar to a lead acid (Flooded Cell) but it doesn't have any liquid in it. They are more resistant to vibration and don't off gas when charging which makes them safe to be in the passenger compartment. ...


5

So is there any point of spending money to buy special cleaner or using coke or baking soda when it should be possible just to clean it with plain water? If you have to clean your battery terminals right now, you have to use the tools available to you. You're going to want to be mindful of these facts: The corrosion deposits can be obnoxious to ...


5

I would think the alternator is the culprit, You can take your car down to an Advance Auto Parts, O'Reilly, Autozone (or the like) where they will test it for free. They can also check your battery, which may be the culprit, but I doubt it. It sounds like the internal regulator is going out (or you might have lost one or more diodes) on the alternator. ...


5

As Nick stated, try and get one of the same value. If one of the same value is not available, you can always go up in CCA/ah, but never go down. Vehicles are spec'ed with a certain battery because that is what it needs to operate the starter to get the engine going. With a lower CCA/ah, you run the risk of dragging the starter, which can cause it damage. The ...


5

If you got a low point discharge, your battery is damaged. Some chemical processes can not be reconverted from that point. If you drive around for some time, your battery will get warm and have a little bit more charge then cold. That could be enough to start the car once again. You don't loose anything if you try to charge you battery. Maybe you are lucky. ...


4

Sounds to me like you are not making connection to the battery (maybe this is what you mean by "dead short"?). I would look at your contact points ... both sides of the battery, ground, and starter to ensure you are making good contact. If you have side posts (assuming you do), these have a tendency of not making complete contact even when tightened. Make ...


4

Those are definitely devices for holding hair in place. As for what purpose (if any) they were serving in your motorcycle, one can only guess!


4

The reason behind tending it to bring it to 100% vs. just riding it up to 100% is to save wear and tear on the alternator or generator. They're really designed to maintain a battery/do light charging, not do a major charge. A secondary thing is that a severely discharged battery may vent a lot of hydrogen while charging and you'll need to monitor the cell ...


4

Modern vehicles have 'smart' alternators and your vehicle is MY2013 and should not be too troubled by your indicated use. For your peace of mind have you considered a solar panel plugged into your cigarette/power outlet socket? These are widely available from auto accessory shops and are quite inexpensive.


4

Depending on what you mean by "periodic", a 10 mile drive should be enough to recharge a battery if done, for instance, on a weekly basis. There is more to worry about than just the battery, though. Whenever you run your vehicle, you need to completely warm up the car (through driving). This allows for the conditioning of seals, allows gaskests not to dry ...


3

This is absolutely the right way to go! I'm not sure about the model, I'm just talking about a battery tender in general. A lot of people who own performance vehicles or recreational vehicles (RV's) here in the States will put one on their vehicle over the winter if it is a summer only driver. The tender will do exactly what you want. It keeps the battery ...


3

Any ground (earth) location will work. On my '06 Silverado, there are places to hook the jumpers which are away from the battery. You don't even hook the jumpers to the battery no matter which way you're going (whether jumping or being jumped). As long as you have a good ground location, you're golden. Given two vehicles with alternative connection points ...


3

Replace, the battery; your alternator and starter will both be subjected to higher stress if the battery is low. If you can't replace it immediately put a trickle charger on it when the vehicle is not in use. (The rare-use scenario you outlined would justify a trickle charger whether the battery is dying or not. But not all vehicles can be garaged, so ...


3

It sounds like your Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) security system has locked you out, but I bet you figured that out already ;-) I found some instructions for resetting a Mercury Mountaineer, and would imagine it should work for your Montego as well. A symptom you should also be looking for is whether the flashing red light continues to blink at double ...


3

A less than optimal battery and a functioning solenoid you would at least get the bendix to actuate. The less than optimal battery, would not supply enough power to have the starter actually rotate the engine. This is usually audiable with a quickly repeating clicking type noise and other times by one "click" [and usually the driver cussing and pounding on ...


3

My first thought is that they are a spacer or shim to prevent the battery from sliding back and forth in the battery box.


3

This battery type does not allow for easy checking and does not require it. If you had a battery with caps you could remove, then yes, you would use distilled water to top them off.


3

You don't need to worry about the desulfation circuit, although there are mixed reviews about how effective they are. However, AGMs are more sensitive to overcharging than a standard SLA (sealed lead-acid) batteries. Actually, it's not the main charging cycle that is harmful, but the float-charge cycle that is used to top them off. If you are getting a ...


3

It should be 12 volt, and you should always charge at the lowest setting reasonable. In this case I would use the 2 amp setting, 6 amps won't hurt it necessarily but the faster you charge a battery the more you shorten it's life. Other than being smaller the isn't any difference in a car and motorcycle battery


3

It could simply be the battery needs a complete charge, or it could be the battery or a parasitic draw. You need to have the battery tested to start. You can see my post here on how to test a battery, or most auto parts stores will do it for you.


3

Yes, a reset could work, if the problem is that the ECU is used to the previous driver's driving style and his style was vastly different to your's. But it could also just be the way you drive. Do you drive more like Morgan Freeman or Vin Diesel? These cars are quite heavy on the juice in city driving. With mine, I get about 7.5l/100km on the highway going ...


3

Exide is simply a battery manufacturer. The Max, Matrix, and Express are just marketing names for some of their battery lines. The best battery to get is one that fits your car, and will last an appropriate length of time for the cost. If your battery is not being properly recharged, it's also possible that your alternator is bad, or is going bad. Both the ...


3

75 - 100 milliamp This is standard across most modern cars.


3

One way round your problem would be too have a second battery, together with diode pack and wiring to charge it independantly. If your intention is too camp out in remote areas, you really dont want to saddle the vehicles system with any loads. Alternatively a generator for your machine. A continuous 6amp load overnight is quite a high demand on a regular ...


3

There are three common causes for this: User error, as pointed by Regina Fault in the electrical wiring of the car Failing battery Since it took forever to charge it back up I believe the third issue applies. For the first, the solution is to pay attention when leaving the car: check lights, radio/music player, any consumers plugged into the ...



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