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3

One way round your problem would be too have a second battery, together with diode pack and wiring to charge it independantly. If your intention is too camp out in remote areas, you really dont want to saddle the vehicles system with any loads. Alternatively a generator for your machine. A continuous 6amp load overnight is quite a high demand on a regular ...


3

There are three common causes for this: User error, as pointed by Regina Fault in the electrical wiring of the car Failing battery Since it took forever to charge it back up I believe the third issue applies. For the first, the solution is to pay attention when leaving the car: check lights, radio/music player, any consumers plugged into the ...


2

What you are looking to purchase is a electronic battery isolator kit. What it does is allows you to add an extra battery which stays separate (isolated) from your main battery. When the vehicle is running, the isolator charges the primary battery first, then when it's full, it will charge the auxiliary battery. When the engine is cut off, the auxiliary ...


2

I don't know what they call it now, but the way it was explained to me was the battery has what is called a "surface charge". It's enough of a charge in the "bad" cell for it to pass electricity, but not enough to keep things going. The single cell discharges faster than it can recharge. This means, when this single cell is depleted, the battery as a whole ...


2

It really depends on the battery, not the car. The car will have a very small drain for the radio presets and fob receiver, but not much. A typical Lead-Acid battery has around a 100 minute reserve capacity. Reserve capacity being how long it takes a 25 amp discharge to lower the voltage to unusable levels. That's roughly 41 Ah. Your 6A will lower it too ...


1

There are several reasons why a car would not even attempt to start. A few to try first... Flat battery - you have tested this, so we can assume it's ok. Loose/poor connection to the battery - this would result in no power to anything, so I'm guessing this isn't the problem as you have some power Immobiliser - If you have one fitted, this might have got ...


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If the battery is fine, then you may have a fuse issue, which headlights not turning on at all would be a strong indication of (those are incandescent/halogen types, so they put out some kind of light down to scary low voltage and amperage). Check fuses for the components not working and replace any blown ones with the proper rated fuse, which is usually ...


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I've had a similar problem. Alternator voltage regulator failed and the alternator was overcharging. Freaked out the car electronics and fried the battery. Replaced alternator and battery and all was well in that case, HOWEVER, wiring damage could also occur, which may take pulling the harness and inspecting the wiring (which I've also had to do after ...


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My grandson installed a dry charged 6v battery in his Honda CT 90 6 months ago. The electrolyte remained in the box never added and eventualy discarded when the box was destroyed by leaking acid. The battery worked all summer and was showing 6.8 v when the bike failed to start this October. When I discovered it dry,I added tap water..only slight drop in ...



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