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It doesn't take as many wires as you think, and they just add additional circuits to the clockspring. The clockspring was introduced with drivers side airbags to maintain a continuous electrical connection for the airbag while allowing the steering wheel to turn. The manufacture simply added a few additional circuits to accommodate steering wheel controls. ...

Many sites including Crutchfield have charts that will tell you what equipment fits in your car. You need to make sure that the radio will fit where the factory radio comes out, there are adapters that make installation very easy. You will need the correct electrical adapter so you can plug the aftermarket stereo into your existing wiring harness. You should ...

Because waveforms are only at the peak for a very short period of time, the most useful figure for amplifiers is RMS - which actually gives a realistic number for the power requirement. That said, you want a speaker to cope with peaks, as these are what will kill it. Generally subwoofers do give both figures, as they are fed the greatest power in your audio ...

The difference is solely in size. A double-DIN gives you more space, but at the end of the day what you should be looking at is what will fit in your car, and this may be hidden behind fascia. My dash will only fit a double DIN, but because I have a single DIN sound system, I use the other half as a storage space.

I was looking for the same thing recently on a 94 Accord (different radio harness). Just looked around again to see if there's a solution on the 03-07 Honda radios and here are the results: On some units you can solder into the aux interface. Otherwise you can cheat the radio into using its CD/Nav/XM expansion plug as an aux input. This usually requires an ...

So you want to keep the factory amp? I wouldn't suggest that. I'd recommend getting rid of the factory amp altogether, they're usually not the best, and it would be difficult - if not impossible - for them to work together. I google'd for a quick sanity check and I'll post a snippet from WikiAnswers: I wouldn't...first most after market amps require a ...

You can also get source sensing amplifiers, which will further make this simpler. If they detect signal from your smartphone, they'll turn on, if not, it'll turn off after some amount of delay. The next question is whether or not you can (or would want to) hook your smartphone or other source directly to an amplifier. It might work, it might not. There ...

What you need is a simple switch. Here's an example of one that you can order from DigiKey. Your radio will use two wires for powering itself, the ground (GND) and V+. The ground wire should be grounded, that is connected to negative (-) terminal of the battery. The V+ wire should be connected to one connector of the switch. Battery positive terminal (+) ...

As in your comment, typically they are one of the following: Have tabs that require you to use a flat tool (ie screwdriver) to pop them out Have small push in plastic pieces that surround a screw hole. Pop the plastic piece out, then unscrew the panel Hidden screws somewhere. You may find that you have to remove a surrounding panel via the screwdriver ...

Panels like that are usually removed after removing the head unit. I'm guessing from the picture that it is an aftermarket unit, so you should be able to get an appropriate removal tool (these vary according to the make of the head unit) from your local car accessories shop. Use the tool(s) to remove the head unit, and you'll find a metal cage behind it, ...

I am not sure why you say the FM transmitter didn't work well. I tried this transmitter and there were no troubles at all. FM Transmitter

If you're not terribly concerned about audio quality, get a cheap head unit off eBay or amazon that has an auxiliary input.. There are several some options under $25 on amazon. You'll likely need a wiring harness, as well, but it looks like that runs only about $2.85 on amazon for your vehicle.

Unfortunately the DIN standard is less and less supported, so it is becoming much harder - you may need to make your own mounting brackets. In terms of wiring, there are many standards for wiring pin-outs, however the vast majority require just a continuous and a switched 12v in and GND so you can either use an aftermarket adapter kit (mentioned by @Larry) ...

Most aftermarket stereos should conform to the DIN standard (ISO 7736), which defines the height and width of the enclosure. As Larry says, you can then get adapters to fit these into those cars that don't conform to the same standard. I don't know if it's the same in the states, but most European cars I have come across have a DIN socket, but often ...

Something could be wrong with your iPhone connection wire/connectors, perhaps it has bad or missing ground line signal. When ground signal is missing the receiver plays the difference between the audio channels - and it often has the voice "ommited", as the voice is common in both channels and music slightly differs due to 3D positioning. Check your ...

For troubleshooting, here are some things to try: Adjust the balance on your stereo to see if you can hear the crackling more to the left or the right, or both. Similarly you can adjust the fade to front / rear to see if the crackling is more in the front or the back. Once you have determined which speaker is causing the crackling, turn the stereo volume ...

Can you say which version/year your Civic is? Recent Civics got an AUX IN (audio Auxiliary in) port where you can plug it in. This is normally on driver's side, bottom of the dash. Otherwise you'll have to buy an extension panel (I'm not sure this is the 'official name for it') which replaces your CD changer. What it does it, simply connects to the audio ...

The only difference between single and double DIN is the size of the unit. However double DIN units often have added features like touch screens, dvd, and navigation features which require the extra space for mounting. Many double din units will use the same audio processors and DACs that the single din units of the same brand do, so they often have the ...

Many amplifiers have low-level inputs using RCA style connections. You can use one of those with a RCA to 1/8" stereo jack for your phone. Switching it could be accomplished through a switch like you mentioned or hopefully there's an ignition-only wire that can be used on the amplifier. They typically have an ignition input just used to switch the power.

I've experienced the same first set of symptoms due to an aftermarket stereo installed in my car by the previous owner. One of the wires came loose and was shorting out against the metal in the center console. The circuit was fused, but it had a slow-blow fuse and eventually on a long drive (after a couple weeks of weird dimming lights and loss of power) ...

I second mac’s reply. A couple things to keep in mind when buying an A2DP receiver: Make sure the receiver turns on automatically when you start the car. Look for a receiver that can pair with more than one phone, i.e. if you have a passenger that wants to play music from their device.

You need an A2DP receiver, these typically output to a 3.5mm male audio plug. A quick google search will yield many options. All require power of some sort. Some are rechargeable or can be charged by USB, which I would imagine would be best for your application. one option at newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA07Y0AG5963

I have not been able to find any good documentation online for the speaker sizes of a VW Polo. Your best bet is to do it the old fashioned way - take out the speakers and measure them. If you're going to replace the speakers then you have to take them out eventually anyways. There is a good article on eHow for measuring car speakers for replacement.

Searching found several options, but I am not sure if these are refering to the same radio you have. If you are not comfortable taking the radio apart there are repair services that will do it for you. How to fix your e36 dim radio display This site offers a DIY repair kit for the back-light if this is your radio They also offer a repair service if ...

Have you tried making sure that, for all your speakers in the car, the wire that hooks into the back of them could be loose and could be wiggling around when driving and causing it to go from bad to good connection which would cause the problem you're having. I had this same exact problem in my Honda Civic Also, have you made sure that all your speakers are ...

The new stereo should come with a cable that plugs in the back and ends in a pair of ISO sockets. These should then mate to the adaptor you linked from ebay (the two small rectangular plugs on the right-hand side of that picture), which in turn should mate to the car's existing wiring harness.

If you are just missing lyrics, my thought is that something must be cutting out the mid range. It could be that when you have your iPod connected, the system wants to send mids to other speakers, so check your config. However, your comment about how you have ground connected, and what happens when you touch the iPod concerns me. You should always ground ...

Does your headunit have some sort of RCA input? If so you could get an RCA to 3.5MM jack to plug into your MP3 headphone jack. If not, you're SOL because that and the options you listed are the only ones. If it doesn't have an RCA out, which I think falls in to your lack of Auxilliary inputs, your only option is to buy a new headunit.