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10

It doesn't take as many wires as you think, and they just add additional circuits to the clockspring. The clockspring was introduced with drivers side airbags to maintain a continuous electrical connection for the airbag while allowing the steering wheel to turn. The manufacture simply added a few additional circuits to accommodate steering wheel controls. ...


8

What you need is an FM modulator -- a device that you install between your car antenna and the stereo. A device like this (I'm not recommending this particular device, just using it as an example): http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Audio-FM-Modulator-Universal/dp/B0007THIDQ Then you can plug your MP3 player into the modulator and the signal travels straight ...


8

I read on a forum that the issue could be down to certain earth wires. When depressing the clutch pedal, you may be earthing a electrical line going to the sound system which in turn stops the music. There are various earths located in the engine bay. Check around the inner wings etc and make sure all of them are tight.


7

I called a local Chevy dealership's service department out of curiosity. The technician I spoke to said that there is no way to access the car settings, that are available through the stock stereo, if the unit is replaced. He mentioned the factory integration adapter that you linked to. He said that it doesn't do anything to access those settings and that ...


7

Things you will need: Head unit Steering wheel audio control adapter compatible with the head unit. Example for your truck Dash kit. It allows for the radio to fit in the non-standard opening.Link to kits Factory system adapter. Allows you to plug in the head unit harness into the factory one and keep the current speaker system in place without splicing ...


6

OK, a month later I figured it out! Here's what finally worked: Delete all duplicate audio devices in the Bluetooth menu Pair the phone using the hands-free system via the steering wheel "off hook" button This seems arbitrary but it solved my problem. See the owner's manual page 5-38 for the exact procedure. If you start pairing using the the radio ...


6

There are two types of locks - if you have entered an incorrect code too many times it may be a garage visit (Lock13) Lock10 is when you have entered an incorrect code 10 times (I think) and can be cleared by holding the "6" button while turning the unit on. Then you enter the security code the normal way: Display Shows CODE with " - - - - " Press Preset ...


6

You need to test with a Digital Multi Meter (DMM) because there is no way we can help you diagnose an issue. I would: Remove the dash and test at the harness (picture below of a headunit disconnected from a dash). Also, when the headunit is removed look for any burns or if the headunit has a blown fuse. If the back of the headunit has a burn mark it can ...


5

Your best bet is actually going to your local Mitsubishi dealer, make sure you have your registration/insurance with you. Should be able to provide it free of charge.


5

I was looking for the same thing recently on a 94 Accord (different radio harness). Just looked around again to see if there's a solution on the 03-07 Honda radios and here are the results: On some units you can solder into the aux interface. Otherwise you can cheat the radio into using its CD/Nav/XM expansion plug as an aux input. This usually requires an ...


5

A common way to run cabling from the back of the car to the front is tucking it under the floor carpet near an edge, where passengers' feet don't frequently stomp. For example you could route it along an edge next to the door, then through the B-pillar or A-pillar, around the windshield and to the rear view mirror.


5

Your problem could be caused by two things. A shitty car charger, they are not all created equal, or a ground loop. As far as the charger goes try several different ones, name brand ones tend to be the best (htc, iphone, samsung, etc...). If the problem goes away then it was the charger. As far as a ground loop, what happens is that the ground potential ...


5

They are typically on the same fuse. Charging outlet should be listed as a cigarette lighter.


5

It looks to be the connector to the external DSP, pictured below the stereo here. Specifically, the second and fourth ports from the left. The stereo should have included two 20' cables for these. For posterity, I derived the model to be Kenwood Excelon KVT-915DVD


5

Not difficult really, if you're handy with a screw driver. Hondas are usually pretty easy to pull the dash apart on, and this guide will help you with that. Then, it's just a case of installing your new stereo. Most "good" brands (like Alpine and so forth) will have adaptor plugs that can make it easy to go from your cars original stereo plug to the new ...


4

Some car wiring systems provide an always-on line, as well as an ignition line. The way these are handled can be different. If your current car has them split out functionally, you may need to wire the always on 12V to your head unit.


4

http://www.wedophones.com/Manuals/Nissan/2003-Nissan-Xterra.pdf That should help ;) Not sure where you can find a universal wiring kit though. The aftermarket headunit should have a small diagram on it as well.


4

Many sites including Crutchfield have charts that will tell you what equipment fits in your car. You need to make sure that the radio will fit where the factory radio comes out, there are adapters that make installation very easy. You will need the correct electrical adapter so you can plug the aftermarket stereo into your existing wiring harness. You should ...


4

What you need is a simple switch. Here's an example of one that you can order from DigiKey. Your radio will use two wires for powering itself, the ground (GND) and V+. The ground wire should be grounded, that is connected to negative (-) terminal of the battery. The V+ wire should be connected to one connector of the switch. Battery positive terminal (+) ...


4

The yellow wire needs to be connected to +12 volts all the time (even with the car off), it sounds like you have this wire connected to switch power. This is the memory wire for the radio that allows it to retain settings when the car is off. I may be wrong on the color of the wire, I was basing my information on the manual provided by Phillips here (PDF ...


4

Because waveforms are only at the peak for a very short period of time, the most useful figure for amplifiers is RMS - which actually gives a realistic number for the power requirement. That said, you want a speaker to cope with peaks, as these are what will kill it. Generally subwoofers do give both figures, as they are fed the greatest power in your audio ...


4

So, I called the dealer and they gave me more confidence that trying to get the serial number of the radio is the way to go. The dealer suggested pressing 1 & 6 on the radio again. After MANY attempts of trying different ways to do this, I found the following to work: Turn on the car Make sure the radio is off...if not off, turn off. Should just see ...


4

The Aux port is simply an SPDIF (3.5mm headphone) port that turns your car stereo into an expensive set of speakers for your MP3 player. It doesn't do anything fancy like "communicating" with your device, aside from accepting incoming audio. I don't know anything about your specific car, but generally you switch your car's audio system to Aux-in mode when ...


4

They get damaged less (think automatic car washes) and I would say a car looks cleaner with it in the window.


4

Had the same issue with my Nissan Rogue 2011. This listed below will fix it... 1) Go to General > Restrictions > Carplay -- Make sure Carplay is DISABLED. (The new IOS 8 enables this on default) 2) Go to General > Reset > Reset Network Settings Apple's stupid Carplay feature nearly ruined everything. Disable it and it will work flawlessly again with ...


4

Your problem is probably a ground loop. This means that the ground path from the laptop to radio has less resistance than the ground path from the laptop to the cigarette liter. This causes the laptop to try and ground through the audio cord which causes the problem. This can be caused by a bad/poor inverter or by a bad/poor power supply. The suggested ...


4

Your car Audio should work well in your garage .Mine has been running for 17 years now .The 12 V DC power supply needs to be rated for the job as others have commented .If you use a switchmode power supply which is more common these days you may get noisey radio reception due to the crud that these supplies put out .Placing the Antenna on the roof will ...


4

The head unit will supply enough power to the stock speakers. You will not need to amplify the signal. Doing so will likely blow the speakers. If you replace your stock speakers with higher wattage speakers, you may need an amp with the channels to power these. A one or two channel (bridgeable) amp is sufficient for the subwoofer(s). When I had a system, ...


3

Check Crutchfield.com, you can put in your make model and see many radios that will fit. This is the what the search turned up when I put in your car info. It looks like you have a standard DIN radio, so any standard DIN radio will fit without an adapter kit. You will need a special tool like the one pictured below to remove the radio. Here is an example ...


3

You don't mention if the car has a CD or tape head unit - I've had reasonable success with tape adapters in our older cars that still have tape drives.



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