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3

This hose is a low pressure one. Your PD type engine only has high pressures inside the valve cover. There is a low-pressure lift pump in the tank, however, which might make a little spritz of a leak when you first remove the hose. You can depressurize the 'low pressure' side of the system by opening the water separator on the bottom of the fuel filter (to ...


3

All Audi Qauttro's have a driveshaft that connects the front differential with the rear differential. Your car does not have 4wd if it does not have a driveshaft. In my country (Denmark) you can add the car to your profile at https://my.audi.com and add the VIN of the car. Then you can see all information about the car including factory installed options ...


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To answer your question, it seems like you didn't buy a Quattro. You bought a FWD car, unless Audi invented some way of transferring power without a drive shaft :(. You might want to talk to the person you bought it from, and bring it to their attention.


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You can still get oil into the coolant through a head gasket leak, even if you don't have any other symptoms. You symptom of oil into the water is very classic of a head gasket leak. Oil pressure is almost always higher than the water pressure. If it's a small leak, oil can be pushed into coolant galleys, but not the opposite. If you have flushed your ...


2

Check under the rear of the car you should be able to see the rear differential. it is the aluminium finned item between the rear wheels If you don't have on then you definitely don't have a quattro, you should also check the VIN to make sure. The driveshaft it self is kinda hard to see depending on the angle. If your car was sold to you as a quattro ...


1

The interior panels on the tailgate of your A3 simply pull off to expose the hose for the rear wash. You need to check the washer jet in the rear wiper arm is not blocked, and the hoses are intact as well. A blocked washer jet can dislodge the hose.


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I'm thinking the issue is probably with the torque rod (on some cars called a dog bone) which keeps the engine/transmission in check during acceleration/deceleration. At least one end of the "dog bone" has a hard rubber piece which can wear out over time. Depending on how worn out it is, the noise will could be louder or not. You would probably notice it ...


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If you are going to keep hold of your A3, then a visit to the Ross-Tech.com web site might be useful to you. Not only can you obtain a VAG diagnpostic system to check your car, but they also have a Wiki on A3's.


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The cause of your starting problem is unknown because the vehicle has not been checked-scanned- for it. A program like Torque Pro will offer you the ability to retrieve fault codes with your smart phone, but a code on its own is not the complete answer. The code should be considered as what the vehicles computer thinks is wrong. In very many instances the ...


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An Audi scanner, VCDS from Ross-Tech.com, will show up any electronic faults on your AirCon. Time and time again though, the symptoms you describe can be put down to the AirCon thermostat.


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Here is a listing of Audi wheel fitment I pulled from this site: Model Year PCD Offset Bore 100 90 to 94 5×112 35 to 45 57.1 200 90 to 94 5×112 40 to 45 57.1 80 92 to 95 4×108 35 to 45 57.1 90 92 to 95 4×108 35 to 45 57.1 A2 00 on 5×100 38 to 45 57.1 ...


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Diesel fuel system has (extremely) high presure between the injector in the engine and the pump. It has pressure in the normal fuel lines too, but not that large. After the change do not forget to remove the excess air from the fuel line! Regards,


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If your rotors' wear surfaces are still smooth & flat & true, then keep the rotors and replace the pads alone. The dealer wants to replace the rotors because doing so eliminates one potential source of liability for them - the more they replace, the less their potential liability. If the wear surfaces are NOT still good, then they should be measured ...


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Replacing rotors or drums every other time you replace the pads/shoes is crazy. For most daily drivers, that would be every year or every 2 years. Unless the vehicle is being used for something like a delivery service (IE, LOTS of miles with TONS and TONS of stops), there is no reason not to expect 50K-100K or even more from a pair of even stock or ...


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if you engine strugle when is cold and start fine when hot and the car run fine after with no lost of power I will check this few thing like = First check you baterry 12.7 v or above good battery under 12.3 V get a new one . then is very likely your starter motor not turning quick enough . if you car is 10 year old plus I will recomend to check you ...



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