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13

Checked EBC website FAQ There was a question on cross drilled rotors, that were represented as genuine EBC brand. Here is the last sentence of their reply: If you have any doubts that you are being supplied genuine EBC Brakes products contact EBC Brakes immediately for an opinion on warranty@ebcbrakes.com I would recommend sending your concerns, ...


12

I can see two differences: The EBC website shows a 3D view of the brake pads, which show a different shape for the black region. This may be because you have a different brake pad shape from the one in the 3D view. The "brake-in coating" tri-color tone also seems like it's missing from your images. However, it's hard to conclude anything based on the ...


8

I assume you mean that the revs are over 2k, if they were over 20k I think you'd get a different sort of noise from the engine bay. From the description it sounds like you'd got a damaged syncro, especially if this happens when you're shifting down into 3rd. Up shouldn't make quite that bad a noise but if the syncro is really on the way out (which your ...


8

Here's a rough approach that should work regardless of vehicle You will need to know the current brake pad thickness the thickness of a brand new brake pad how much mileage you've put on the car since the last brake pad change. The formula Mileage per mm = mileage since last brake change / ( brand new thickness - present thickness ) ...


7

Whether or not it's right for your car, I can't say as I don't know anything about Audis. However, it's normal for there to be some (not a lot) oil in the intake of the cars I'm familiar with.


6

Sounds you have a small leak. A fluid collects somewhere and then makes itself to the exhaust manifold or headers and because that's hot, it burns/evaporates causing the smoke you are seeing Does it smell like burnt plastic? If yes, then its probably engine oil. I'm not sure if antifreeze would produce a distinct burnt smell as its mostly water/alcohol. ...


6

That's actually standard Audi & VW behaviour, not an electrical problem.


6

Looks like a check valve for the evaporative emissions system. Hard plastic tubing and the solenoid valve on the left side are strong clues for me.


6

See Is it OK to replace only 2 tires on an AWD car?. If you call different Audi dealers you're likely to get differing answers regarding how much tread depth difference is OK for the all-wheel-drive system. Nonetheless, I would advocate calling to get specific recommendations for your vehicle, as some all-wheel drive systems are more sensitive to ...


6

It seems the way to trigger the headlight washers is to just hold the main washers longer. That would mean to me they cannot be triggered exclusively. If you don't actually like the little things, there is a way to code them out from the hidden menu if you have access to VAG COM. Change the following: Set Headlight washer - Duration [09 – Cent. ...


6

I went ahead with Abbottcost's advice and messaged EBC Barkes directly. They replied promptly with a detailed answer to my question. Here is an excerpt for the email: We only powder coat the rear of the pad so as not to get too much powder coat on the friction surface, this means the rough overspray can look a little untidy. The Brake-In coating is a ...


5

I second Timo's assessment: it's likely that the synchromesh gear (AKA synchro) is worn badly enough that it's not able to do it's standard rev matching for you. Instead, as he suggests, you have to come a lot closer to matching the engine revs to the wheel revs, using your right foot with care. That said, it's possible that you have a problem that is ...


5

I wouldn't rule out a bad MAF so quickly - there was a generation of VW and AUDI MAFs that slowly went south without any indication from the ECU that they were doing so and IIRC the ECU managed to compensate for the dying MAF for a while. Also, if the ECU thinks you might be boosting at 15psi and using a conventional gauge suggests you're boost 7psi, you ...


5

Perhaps you would be better served by going in with some specific questions rather than allowing a salesman (who might be paid on commission) to drive your purchase. For example, when I search Tire Rack for 2005 Audio A4 Quattro (Base model), I see many tires ranging upwards from $265 USD. When I purchased my snow tires recently, I asked the shop that I ...


4

The reason the oil light is coming on is because the oil pressure in the engine does fall low enough for the oil pressure switch to trigger. After all, it's a pressure warning light and not an oil level warning light. It's not unknown for these switches to go bad but given that it's accompanied by engine noise, I would very much work on the assumption that ...


4

All Audi Qauttro's have a driveshaft that connects the front differential with the rear differential. Your car does not have 4wd if it does not have a driveshaft. In my country (Denmark) you can add the car to your profile at https://my.audi.com and add the VIN of the car. Then you can see all information about the car including factory installed options ...


4

To answer your question, it seems like you didn't buy a Quattro. You bought a FWD car, unless Audi invented some way of transferring power without a drive shaft :(. You might want to talk to the person you bought it from, and bring it to their attention.


4

This hose is a low pressure one. Your PD type engine only has high pressures inside the valve cover. There is a low-pressure lift pump in the tank, however, which might make a little spritz of a leak when you first remove the hose. You can depressurize the 'low pressure' side of the system by opening the water separator on the bottom of the fuel filter (to ...


4

You can still get oil into the coolant through a head gasket leak, even if you don't have any other symptoms. You symptom of oil into the water is very classic of a head gasket leak. Oil pressure is almost always higher than the water pressure. If it's a small leak, oil can be pushed into coolant galleys, but not the opposite. If you have flushed your ...


4

This set up is a quazai differential/planetary gear set. This can make it difficult to see how it functions. Power comes in from the transmission and into the pinon gear carrier and pinon gears. The pinon gears then transfer power to the front and rear crown gears. While the speed of the front and rear axles is the same the pinons do not rotate on their ...


4

Using the 5w40 is fine for that car, but more importantly make sure the oil meets the VW 507.00 spec. These specifications are very important for turbo diesels, so don't use just any oil. If you have any doubts, I would just go buy some oil from the VW/Audi dealer in your area. Paying a little more for oil is better than the alternative, but you should be ...


3

Check under the rear of the car you should be able to see the rear differential. it is the aluminium finned item between the rear wheels If you don't have on then you definitely don't have a quattro, you should also check the VIN to make sure. The driveshaft it self is kinda hard to see depending on the angle. If your car was sold to you as a quattro ...


3

Couple things you might want to check. Coolant temperature sensor. With a cold engine the ecu should try to dump more fuel in for starting. If the sensor isn't working it might send the wrong amount of fuel and inhibit starting. Idle Air Control valve. This going bad could cause similar issues.


3

My guess is that they either fitted brake pads that don't have wear sensors or didn't connect the wear sensors correctly.


3

Problem solved : sticking valve in turbo After running a solenoid check at the independent mechanics - which toggles the solenoids for as long as you like, I get power and turbo back with a vengeance. This means the problem is with a sticking solenoid in one of the turbo valves - either the wastegate or the diverter valves. The mechanic mentioned as we ...


3

If this is the 2.8L engine, I'd be willing to bet that it's lifters. I have a '97 A4 2.8 quattro and around 140K miles one morning when I went to start it I heard a rattling. I immediately took it over to our mechanic, less than a mile away. It was not accompanied by an oil pressure light that I recall, but I really didn't drive it very long, either... ...


3

Possible low oil pressure. Could be due to, or currently in the process of causing damage to the main bearings. I had a similar situation with my Toyota. Apparently the oil pressure light comes on only at VERY low oil pressure. The car was down around that value at idle, and at speed it was up just barely above it (enough to keep the light off, but was ...


3

Also, remember that MAF is a reading of the amount of air entering the engine. If you have a backflow issues (high backpressure) or even a timing issue where the valves are not opening and closing at the correct time (slack chains, jumped timing), your MAF sensor readings will reflect this as well. I know this post is late, but any who are looking into this ...


3

Rotor replacement is normally done when the rotor can no longer be resurfaced and still fall within the acceptable thickness range. The acceptable thickness range is based on stock brake pads though, so if you're using more aggressive aftermarket pads you may have to do replacement rotors sooner than is specified. That rust on the edge doesn't concern me ...


3

Sounds like a transmission related issue. I would take it back to the immediately if it wasn't doing that before they serviced it. I doubt anything they did caused the problem, but if it did the quicker you take it back the better. A slipping torque converter clutch would cause similar symptoms, which could be caused by a bad solenoid, bad torque converter, ...



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