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This one nearly screams "battery connection". I think you need to clean those battery posts & clamps with a battery brush.


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The answer appears to be in the question. A full check on the battery clamps and cables, including the earth attachment to the vehicle should be carried out. Dont forget that the battery cables themselves can break down internally even when they look OK externally. The clicking and lights going haywire you descibe point to a battery, battery circuits or ...


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As highlighted in the question comments, the culprit was the vibration damper on the crank pulley that had failed, causing the pulley center and outer ring to have some limited slip relative to one another. I'm happy to say that the following symptoms were resolved. With the A/C disengaged, the crank pulley was spinning at a limited speed. This was also ...


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Bad alternators don't always make noise, and sometimes good alternators can appear to be noisy. That reminds of those guys who check tire pressure by just looking at the tires... Like others have said, don't play the guessing game, go to your local hardware store, grab a multimeter and figure out what's going on. It's not difficult to test your charging ...


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Set your multimeter to the "20 VDC" or similar setting. NOT "AC", be sure it's on "DC". With the car off, measure between the two battery posts. NOT the clamps, but the posts themselves that are part of the battery. Note the reading - it should be above about 12.5V if the battery is fully charged. Now start the car and measure again. With the engine ...


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I'd still suspect the alternator - they don't always get noisy when they fail, as there are multiple things that can fail... To check it with a multimeter, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. With the engine off this should be around or just over 12v, and with it running it should be around 14.5v - if it is significantly higher (e.g. 18v) then ...



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