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When you have your subs hooked up, have someone install a capacitor, a spare battery for your subs. Shouldn't be any extra cost. It just goes from the power to the amp.


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Batteries have what is called a surface charge, which is probably the reason yours tested 12.6V -- you should wait several hours at room temperature prior to testing the voltage of the battery to compare against the 12.6V/12.7V standard. The reason you had intermittent electrical issues might be related to the fact that battery was consuming a lot of power ...


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On older vehicles the alternator would give out a high rate until it became warm. This used to be known as its saturation point. The alternator output would then drop off to supply the demand put on it plus maybe a couple of amps. A later 'smart' alternator and its control system can carry out conductive tests while operating and will better re-charge the ...



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