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9

Your battery was dead. In many cars, when the battery can't provide enough cranking amps, you will hear a clicking instead of the normal starting sound. The starter battery draws a lot of current. When that happens, the voltage available to the rest of the system drops dramatically, especially if the battery is weak. That's why your clock reset itself. ...


6

Given all the inefficiencies, is it "free" to plug in, say, a smartphone into a car to charge while I am driving? Short answer: no (but it's so hard to measure the impact that it be hard for you to tell). Remember, the alternator has to power everything connected to the electrical system. Charging the battery is a big load at first but drops off as ...


5

This is actually much simpler than that chart implies. Don't worry about ohms per thousand feet - for a four foot length this will be very very low. What is more important is the maximum current a wire is rated to. So here the question is whether you will want the OO gauge as it is rated to 190A in the power transmission column, or the 2 gauge as it is ...


5

Probably not, but maybe in some circumstances. I've had 4 alternator failures in my life. 1) Toyota MR2 - Alternator diode blew up (big bang and smoke) while driving on the expressway. No prior warning. Just BANG! and was suddenly on battery. 2) Toyota MR2 - Alternator casing broke causing the alternator to bind up and jam (with loud scraping and ...


5

Most of the time a ground loop is the cause of this problem. This problem is common especially if your stereos speakers are amplified, and can be fixed my making sure that your stereo unit and/or amplifier have a good ground connection. This can be done by either finding a more direct ground connection to the cars frame, sanding the area around your ground ...


5

Measuring the state-of-charge of a lead-acid battery is non-trivial. The easiest way is to use a voltmeter. You'll need a digital meter with 3 1/2 digits of precision. Let the battery rest, disconnected, for 24 hours. Then measure the voltage across the terminals. According to http://www.phrannie.org/battery.html, anything over 12.60V is at least 85% ...


5

It will have to be fixed before you drive it very far. If the battery light is on the alternator is not charging, your not going to make it very far before the battery goes dead. Your local parts store will be able to test the alternator on the car, most if not all will do it for free. Based on the battery light I am confident it's the alternator, but ...


4

A modern Toyota will stop the engine when the battery is bad, it's a safeguard. Replacing the battery should fix the problem.


4

I found a repair/rebuild guide for the CS130 alternator. Page 5 contains the following: SLIP RING SERVICING It the slip rings are dirty, they may be cleaned and finished with 400 grain or finer polishing cloth. Spin the rotor and hold the polishing cloth against the slip rings until they are clean. CAUTION: The rotor must be rotated in order ...


4

You should do a load test on your battery and see if you have a damaged cell. If this is not the case, check for a parasitic draw test on your vehicle, which basically tells you if something is on and draining your battery.


4

Alternators aren't built for one engine so the manufacturer can't possibly know the gearing / ratio between the alternator and the engine. Therefore the RPM listed in the spec will be the RPM for the alternator. To calculate the alternators RPM you will need to find the diameter of the alternator pully [a] and the one connected to (presumably) the ...


4

No. You could probably fix a broken one by rebuilding it but I doubt it is easy to up the amperage value. You would have to replace the coils with higher windings I doubt you could do this in the average garage. Worth looking into I guess but I wouldn't hold your breath.


4

Magnetos are used to provide spark to spark plugs in an engine that does not require electronic fuel injection and variable valve timing. Or more accurately: a magneto can be used in the case where you simply need to fire spark plugs and not much else. They're simpler than alternators and thus more reliable, but a magneto the size of an alternator won't be ...


4

I would think the alternator is the culprit, You can take your car down to an Advance Auto Parts, O'Reilly, Autozone (or the like) where they will test it for free. They can also check your battery, which may be the culprit, but I doubt it. It sounds like the internal regulator is going out (or you might have lost one or more diodes) on the alternator. ...


3

If you have 0 volts at the alternator output terminal when the vehicle is off then you most likely have a blow fusible link. You could also have a broken wire. You should have battery voltage at the output terminal even with the car off.


3

First off, you may want a 2nd opinon on the alternator. If both battery and alternator are good, then its either a wiring or ECU problem. Check the contacts on the battery terminals/connectors to make sure they're not loose, dirty, or corroded. Then follow the ground wire (the black one) back to the chassis of the car to make sure it has a solid ground..


3

If you put too much of a load on the alternator it will constantly max itself out as it tries to keep up with the demand. Running at max will heat up the alternator and eventually it will burn out. As @Brian pointed out, probably sooner than later. Most aftermarket audio systems that require higher amps also have high output alternators.


3

Generally, the alternator provides enough power to run the car, even without a battery present. If your car stops as soon as the battery is disconnected, then you have a problem in the charging circuit. If you're 100% certain that the alternator is good, then something else is preventing the power from getting to the electrical system. If the charging ...


3

If you believe it's not the battery, it could be your starter motor solenoid. I've had a solenoid go on a couple of cars I've owned, it seems to be quite a common thing. The solenoid is what you hear clicking when it can't get enough current to turn the motor over, but it could also be on it's way out and getting stuck perhaps. Usually when a starter motor ...


3

Disclaimer: This isn’t a qualified answer, but I thought it could be useful addition above that of a comment. I’ve looked into DIY coil repair before, and while such operation is possible (including winding the coils taut using hand drill or bench press), it’s not advisable for a novice. Beside the difficulty of producing a decent coil, even more so ...


3

I managed to pull over and change to the spare wheel in about 30 minutes (having never changed a tire before! Lesson learned!) Well done. It's not the world's most challenging job but you can hurt yourself if you're stressed (say after a blowout). Whilst driving after the jump start and while the battery was still very low on power, I noticed ...


3

So, bear with me on this and maybe I can help. Mind you, none of what I'm going to say is going to be easy to do, but that is because your issue is not an easy one to solve. The main problems I see here with any solution is alignment and distance from any mounting point I can discern. My main thought here is you need to get the alternator connected back to ...


2

If you've tested the battery and determined that the battery is good, and if a jump start doesn't solve the problem, you could remove the starter motor and take it to an auto-parts store or a mechanic. They can test the starter motor independent of the other systems in the car. While the motor is out, you can also inspect it for damage. On most cars ...


2

There are three common causes for this issue. Two of them are the ones you have identified (failing batery or alternator), the third is the simplest - a poor connection or broken wire from the alternator. This latter you should be able to check with a multimeter, There should be a small wire coming from the back of the alternator to the dashboard carrying ...


2

Better consider an alternator upgrade when it blows up. You'll probably be blowing it up pretty soon. :-)


2

I would recommend fitting an analogue voltmeter, and potentially an ammeter as well. The voltmeter will give you an idea of battery voltage whenthe engine is off, and alternator performance when it is running, and the ammeter will give you an idea of current drain - You can compare this with the rated current of your alternator to know if you're overloading ...


2

However you hooked up that alarm, disconnect it, and make sure it is good and disconnected. If that alarm was what drained your original battery in the first place, it's probably still not working and draining your battery and shorting out your electrical system. Then, take that new battery right back to autozone and convince them to trade it for a new one, ...


2

Most modern engines should increase RPM's when the load on the electrical system increases, as the Engine Management system should monitor voltage and identify it being drawn low, so increasing RPM to increase output from the alternator. Even many older engines would do this.


2

I use this guide. For 160amps you probably want at least a 2 gauge (as seen in power&ground cable specs) but you could probably get away with a 4 gauge run if it is short.


2

I don't know of any vehicle (as equipped from the factory) that increases the idle speed to compensate for a large draw on the battery. If the alternator starts bogging the engine down then the computer should compensate to maintain the set idle speed but not make it increase. It's easy to find out if the alternator will put out enough current at idle to ...



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