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9

The key things you can to to keep your fuel economy: Keep it tuned up: for spark plugs and wires, go with the manufacturer recommended brands/default ranges. Additionally, you'll want to make sure you change the oil regularly, as sludgy oil will rob your motor of efficiency. Finally, a clean air and fuel filter will also go a long way to imrpoving fuel ...


7

Some good points have been given already especially as far correct spark plugs and correct fuel go. Some other points, unfortunately, I can only describe as regurgitated 'car-care' sales drivel. I'm almost surprised that no one has mentioned that you should wax your car more often. Here is a list of things that are not worth your money and time: Changing ...


6

Most of the time a ground loop is the cause of this problem. This problem is common especially if your stereos speakers are amplified, and can be fixed my making sure that your stereo unit and/or amplifier have a good ground connection. This can be done by either finding a more direct ground connection to the cars frame, sanding the area around your ground ...


5

If you want to know for sure, you can ask the dealer what they use. It would be good to know for the future anyway. There are two main types of anti freeze, generally they all use ethylene glycol as the coolant base; though they differ in the type of corrosion inhibitors used. "Traditional" coolants (often green or yellow) generally use silicates, while ...


5

I happen to have the same experience as you when sitting in my 1998 Honda Accord after it has been shut off. The humming sound lasts 5-6 seconds, and it can be 5 to 10 minutes apart. The noise is definitely coming from underneath the car ahead of the rear wheels, not from the engine. I have also noticed that I have never heard the noise in the winter, ...


4

For anyone who has similar issues I had a similar issue however I don't think it was exactly same. I tried the steps in the accepted answer with no success. Research on my own I tried different phones and noticed that some would have the static at low volumes and other would not. I looked online and sometimes the phone can cause this to happen. How I ...


4

A clicking sound on acceleration especially while turning is most commonly caused by a CV (constant velocity) joint. A CV joint transmits power from the engine to the drive wheels. If you look under the car behind the front wheel you will see a black rubber cone around each end of the axle. This is the boot or cover for the CV joint. Many times the joint ...


3

Your serpentine belt is squealing on the alternator. One of two possible causes for this. Either your serpentine belt is worn out or your tensioner pulley is not doing it's job (tensioning the serpentine belt). The pulley can wear out over time allowing the belt to slip a little. At startup there is a heavy load placed on your alternator, which causes it to ...


2

What came to mind reading this is on my car there is what you could describe as a "hum" when you put the key to ON without actually starting the engine that goes for a few seconds, then repeats every once in a while. On my vehicle it is a vacuum pump that is maintaining pressure in the vacuum system for the accessories that have been enabled by the key ...


2

Instructions here. The canister is under the driver's side passenger seat and you need to jack the vehicle up (secure with jack stands) and remove the nearest wheel. Remove tubing, electrical connector and one bolt and it comes out. Once out, you can replace the whole thing or hopefully just replace the valve. Sounds like something I could do on a ...


2

I found a spring clip and pin under a rubber boot. Popped those out (with some difficulty) and got it all free.


2

I did this work on my own. I would like to share what I learned on this site. I wanted to write this because I was not satisfied with the instructions I've seen elsewhere on the internet about how to do it. However, I realize that I don't have all the answers, so I decided to instead write a narrative describing how I did the work. It would be great if ...


2

To add to what @rwheadon said, also consider replacing your wheel bearings and getting an alignment. Not as simple as "inflate your tires to the max recommended PSI", but not onerous either.


2

You said that the service station didn't mention having to top up the coolant, but I'd start by checking the coolant level yourself. The coolant overflow bottle should be prominent in the engine compartment, and the min/max levels should be well marked. If the coolant level is good, perhaps you have a failing thermostat. This could result in higher than ...


2

Apparently this particular model suffers from this issue in cold climates. This is due to the factory o-ring failing to provide a good seal and thus allowing air to enter the Power Steering Pump Inlet. The fix is to replace the o-ring. A step by step guide to this is provided in this link


1

Agree with the comments and answers about the alternator. Also possible the alternator clutch is worn/faulty. Most alternators have a built-in clutch mechanism which disengages at x RPM to start charging the battery. It's typically around 1500 - 2000 RPM. When you take the car for a drive, make sure at the outset that the revs exceed 2000 RPM (momentarily, ...


1

It sounds to me like an issue with your alternator. Before trying anything major, try taking a wire brush to your battery terminals. Often buildup on these can cause battery issues. I've had it on many cars before where they would not start due to this. This link here may help you diagnose your issue further. You will need a multimeter to do this. ...


1

If you want to top it off just once, it's better to get a bottle of distilled water and pour that in. If you're an unlucky person, the two types of antifreeze might coagulate (form a jelly) and mess up your engine. Anti-freeze is cheap enough for you to flush your coolant system and fill it up with the type you want to put in. I would suggest emptying the ...


1

I received this information from this site. It is the 100,000 mile maintenance service specification for the 2009 Acura TSX. Action: Description Inspect/Adjust/Change Rotate Tires Inspect/Adjust/Change Replace engine oil and filter Inspect/Adjust/Change Inspect windshield wiper and washer systems and fluids levels Inspect/Adjust/Change ...


1

I'm a little late to the game on this, but those fans are controlled by a radiator sensor and a fan timer unit. My first guess is that your radiator sensor (lower right side) is bad, but you would need to pull and test it.


1

When driving your vehicle in Drive, all gear shifting is done automatically by its control system. The control system would be set out to engage, up or down, with a soft engagement. When you are selecting manually the system would engage the gear and adjust the engine speed usually abruptly. This applies to a great many autos and is the harshness you ...


1

HAHA! I had this EXACT problem happen on one of my motorbikes. Basically the velocity of the wind hits a perfect speed over either a crack in the intake pipe, or some other object, and it whistles. I'm not really sure why you would bother with cold air intakes. At best they only really provide the same level of gains as a better air filter. There are ...


1

On BMWs when the blower motor goes off the reservation, it is usually the final stage/blower motor resistor. Does your car have one of those? If so, check it as it could be bad.


1

This question is already answered, but it is worth noting that a distinct stereo whine that changes pitch with engine speed can be indicative of an issue with the alternator and/or voltage regulator. The noise sounds like supercharger whine in such cases.


1

When converting the 12V DC from your battery to whatever voltage the inverter puts out, there are conversion steps internally to AC and back through switching the voltage. The switching circuit frequency is probably sensitive to the voltage, and as this varies (can be from 11 to even 15v in some cars) that could change the speed of the switching stage.


1

Since no one's mentioned it, try replacing the PCV valve. You probably have more fuel blowby in a higher mileage car since the rings are probably more worn, and it's the PCV valve which let's that fuel and vapours be recycled and reburned by the engine. Just some quotes: Auto Repair For Dummies pg. 142 The PCV valve is part of the positive crankcase ...


1

Remove any unneeded weight. If you have 100lbs of junk in the car, it will make a small, but noticeable difference. This will not only improve mileage, but braking, accelerating, handling as well.


1

Turns out it was just a spider laying eggs in the valve. Asked the dealer to try blowing it out with the compressed air. Been working ever since, no problems. Apparently the spiders like the smell of inside there and this is a somewhat common problem documented in the service knowledge bases for this car and several others.


1

As suggested, you need to put a flat head screw driver near the back edge of the lens and gently pry it off. Then you should be able to pull the lens out of the housing to remove it. This video might help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRPv4aVg9b8


1

Your later edit confuses the picture a bit but here's an idea from left field: could it be the active noise cancellation system? That has been cited as a source of annoying noise after an aftermarket subwoofer is installed. Regarding the disconnected battery: what happens if you disconnect the battery and then pump the brake pedal a few times? Does that ...



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