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These Honda transmissions are prone to failure. Which is unfortunate. I have the same car and the transmission failed at about 130,000 miles. You can check the transmission fluid. With the engine off and the car on a level surface remove the transmission dipstick, clean and put it back in and then pull it out. Now you should see the level at the upper mark. ...


2

Fuse box is good on a Honda, choose the terminal where the source cable is connected directly to the battery, be sure to use an in line fuse (30A) on your wire. Use #10 wire to connect your accessory to the terminal.


0

It sounds more like a transmission issue than a engine issue. It sounds like it not going to first gear but when you rev the engine it upshifts into second and drive normally. I could be a slipping clutch. In automatics there are pairs of clutches for each gear. When changing gears one clutch applies and other partially applies until it moves fast enough to ...


2

Many manufacturers will recommend insertion of a pin to unclog a windshield sprayer. It doesn't always work but is definitely worth trying before buying.


3

I've managed to repair these jets (and re-align them) by using a dress pin pushed down the nozzle. Typically either dirt or polish (depending on how you maintain your car) accumulates at the exit point of the nozzle and a pin is enough to clear it.


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High Pressure Air I would disconnect the hose from that sprayer from the motor that gives it the pressure to spray. I would go where there is high pressure air. In my case that would be my shop. I would have an air gun with a rubber tip. I would take that air gun with a rubber tip and push it tightly against the sprayer nozzle and use the high pressure ...


3

The two faults may or may not be related For the idle speed code: 1) Clean the throttle valve. 2) Relearn the idle speed. To do this remove both battery cables and connect them together for 10 minutes. While they are apart take the opportunity to clean off any the acid. After 10 minutes connect them back together, start then engine and let it run at idle ...


4

To be honest you need to be able to view live data using a scan tool. If you don't have access to these it may be cheaper to take it to a shop that specializes in Hondas. It's not inconceivable that both AFR sensors failed at the same time, but unlikely. Don't replace potentially expensive AFR sensors without doing basic checks first. Check for vacuum ...


6

When you get a bunch of codes on a car, the best way to work through is to fix only the first code - in this case the P2195. The easiest check is to look for a disconnected cable - Rear A/F Sensor Sensor 1 Bank 1 (which is also a cause of P1172). If everything checks out good, the other cause of a P2195 points towards the MAF having some debris in it. From ...


1

The picture in your comment suggests the following course of action: The bolted type of battery terminal shown can cause this symptom and still look OK. Test it with a voltmeter. Put one probe on the lead of the battery and the other on the copper of the cable and then read the meter while trying to crank the engine. Do this for both connections. If the ...


4

This problem is usually indicative of a bad connection at the battery (or one of the battery cables). It almost behaves like a resettable fuse. When there is a connection, the lights work because the connection is good enough to allow the little amount of power needed to power these devices. Then, when you try to start, the connection breaks because there is ...


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A @FredWilson says, you need to charge it slowly - either by driving it around or by using a trickle charger. If you can get a trickle charger with a 'maintenance mode', you can leave it permanently attached to the car and it will keep the battery topped up and stop it going flat in the first place. If possible, I'd also recommend finding someone you trust ...


12

Lead acid type batteries, such as this, like to be charged very slowly. Under 5 amps for many hours would be best. During fast charging the internals overheat and electrolyte can boil. Best to charge slowly if time allows. This type battery has its worst damage happen when it is stored discharged. The chemistry in this state is more acidic. This acid ...


17

Use the jumper battery to start the engine, then disconnect it and leave the engine running (with no current drain such as lights, heater fan, radio, etc). The car should charge its own battery to 80% charge in about two hours (assuming the battery and alternator are in good condition; the battery may be damaged by being uncharged for so long, but I've never ...


1

I've seen electronic toys with very weak batteries do what you're describing. They try to come on, but as everything starts to power up, the little remaining battery current can't keep up, and the toy goes dark, just to start the process over again. If your battery is very weak, I could see how the key less entry system might be starting to "boot up" and ...


4

Sounds like it needs a new starter Honda OE starters do the slow crank then click thing when they start to go. Next time it acts up see if you can smack it with something. Your phantom issue sounds like the ECM Lost it's crankshaft variation pattern and regained it. You would need to get codes pulled to verify.


6

Spark? looks good enough to me. Jumps a 30kV gap looks blue enough to rule out a secondary issue. Great. MAP sensor voltage looks OK < .90v with the engine hot @ idle. Pretty much rules out a sticking valve or the valves being out of adjustment. Concur, and just about rules out engine pumping problems. That and the good compression test. ...


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Figured out it (thanks to a shove in the right direction by @mikes): It's the remote engine start accessory's antenna. I didn't think of it when I was asked if I had "add-ons" because it's an official Honda accessory (that I can't do without!) installed by the dealer before taking delivery. Specifically, see this exploded diagram part #4: I went back ...



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