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8

I had this same issue. The PCM and fuel pressure regulator is the correct fix. It is not cheap, but it does address the problem. If i recall, the issue has to do with ethanol having a lower boiling point than traditional gas. This causes it to vaporize on the fuel rail when the car's warm, but no long pumping gas because it's off. When you go to re-start ...


7

Distributor, it's what provides the electrical energy to the spark plugs at the correct time.


7

If the screw was just screwed into fibreglass, then a simple fibreglass patch is all you need. Cover the hole, and then once it has set, drill a pilot hole and fit the new screw. Alternatively you could use a couple of washers and a bolt, rather than a screw. Because this is not a high load, and is hidden in normal use, you don't need anything that clever ...


6

You might be interested in this question: What are the audible symptoms of a failing starter motor? The diagnosis in that question and answer period was that I probably had an aging starter motor (correct).


6

If the light was shut off after pumping the foot brakes the issue was not the parking brake. The problem is in the regular braking system you use to stop the car, as such it needs immediate attention. It may have been caused by something as simple as low brake fluid level. If the level is low either the system has a leak or the brake pads are worn to the ...


5

I suspect that the 15% oil is talking about oil life. Just make sure that you check the oil level and top it off appropriately before taking the trip. Change the oil a quickly as possible once the trip is done.


5

The oil pan is not a normal wear item, however being so low to the ground it is possible to damage it. As the oil pan is not removed for regular inspection, any decision made by the mechanic should be visible to photograph without tools or disassembly, either as physical damage or oil leaking. Have the mechanic put the vehicle on the lift and show to you ...


4

That sounds like condensation from moisture that's already in the system. It's not harmful but that slight smell could be the beginnings of mildew. You might want to dry out the system. The best way that I've heard of is to run the air through the recirculator with the heater on, trying the defrost, floor and vent settings. If you run hot dry air through ...


4

So the problem seems to go away if manage to get the car into gear and move, but not if you rev it? "fuel ressure regulator and PCM!?" Sounds like they haven't bothered with the slightest bit of diagnosis. It sounds like a fuel pump problem to me. An electrical fuel pump problem at that. I think you have a mechanical fuel regulator, so i wouldn't expect it ...


4

Some cars have a separate flasher relay for the Hazards - if that's the case then you might have a failure of the primary flasher relay? The signal initially not turning off suggests a possible failure of the switch though - It might be worth disconnecting the switch (there's usually a connection somewhere under the column) and testing it separately? I'm ...


4

The caliper should be fine once the brake line issue is repaired providing it didn't get hot enough to melt the seals. The pads may appear fine but I would replace them. Pads that got that hot mays have hairline cracks in them. The cracks could eventually cause pieces of the lining to flake off. The rotor is likely in need of replacement also. As far as ...


4

As a side note: It might make sense to replace the brake line as well. I am not sure what you mean by "twisting" the brake line (as a 180 or even 360 degree twist of the line, while not ideal for safe driving, should not lead to brakes failing. I therefore assume that you have severely bent or folded the line on itself), so there is a real chance of some ...


4

I think it is most likely the wires, rotor cap, and/or coil. When the aforementioned parts get old and tired, then damp with increased humidity, they can leak electricity. This is most easily seen at night, because there will be a nice bright light show under the hood. If it doesn't happen to be raining and the car starts right up, you can test the theory ...


4

If you are going to replace the sensor and have already purchased the replacement, cut the wires off of the old sensor and put a 1/2" drive deep well socket onto it (don't use the split socket for the O2 sensor to take it off, but you will use it to put it back on). Use a breaker bar to break it free, then use a ratchet the rest of the way. If you do not ...


4

I would check for: cracks, but don't take casting marks for cracks (a picture of your pan would be helpful to tell) scratches stripped plug thread (but then it would already be leaking since you wouldn't be able to tight the plug back ;-)) any deformation especially on the gasket level


3

It is a bumper cover. What you can't tell from the pictures is if the metal bumper or other hardware behind it is damaged also. If you get under the car you might be able to see the extent of the damage. Dpending on your skill level you can do this at home. Be aware that you will have to do some research to disable the airbag just to be safe. The parts ...


3

I had this same problem. You need a replacement orange O-ring with part 91345-RDA-A01. This video will show you the problem in great detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf-_qp1y4yc BTW, if you have a V6, there is a recall on a possible leak in one of the power steering hoses. You may want to have that checked out as well.


3

Check for a shorted wire. If the fuse keeps blowing, you could have a wire touching metal somewhere in the system.


3

From time to time you do come across a rusted in sensor. Your vehicle being a 2001, and O2 sensors lasting some time, yours is rusted in. If sheer force does not work you may need to use an oxy-acetalyne torch on the sensor to heat to it red-hot to break the rusting and undo it with a good single-hex deep socket. I have had one or two sensors break up and ...


3

I would bet the problem lies in the relay, which should be located under the hood. It should look something like this: Each of the high beams and low beams will have their own relay. The switch which is only used to energize the relay. The relay provides the power for the head lights. The underhood fuse box should look like this: On the underside of ...


3

As seen in the following diagram, your windshield lateral trim is basically a long deflector that is held in place by several clips. Image source: Hondapartsnow, http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/1997-honda-accord-4dr_lx_abs-ka-4at/front-windshield.html Assembly #7 serves to deflect airflow, and probably can simply be taken off. Your car will just ...


3

Relay is here: That's in the driver's footwell. I believe it's above the fuse box, around the hood open latch. There's a plastic cover over the relays you'll have to pull off. There's one for the relays and one for the fuse box. It should just pull out and the new one can be popped right in. You'll have to pull hard.


3

Try using some graphite lube on the lock cylinder before you give up on it. If you remove the lock cylinder, disassemble it, and clean it, you may improve it's function. You should also be able to get the lock cylinder re-keyed at the dealer or a locksmith prior to installation.


2

I just did this on a 2007 Accord SE. I bought this adapter which plugs into a port in the back of the factory stereo. To access the port, you have to disassemble a small portion of your car's interior. Watch this for instructions. Sound quality The sound quality is reasonable, but not excellent. You can hear a subtle but constant background noise ...


2

There is almost certainly a genuine OE option available that you could purchase from a dealer and probably get them to fit as well. This would be worth looking into just so you know how much it would cost, it may not be super expensive, but my gut feel says it will be reasonably costly. Or there are aftermarket options available. www.crutchfield.com has a ...


2

The manual states that for a 2003-2007 honda accord, the timing belt should be replaced at an 8 year or 105,000 mile mark. I just inherited a 2004 Honda Accord EX-V6 sedan from my father who purchased this car new in 2004. He drove a total of 55,000 miles in the 8 years in which he owned the vehicle. I feel stuck because I don't want the belt to snap off, ...


2

What are your driving conditions? If you primarily do city driving (stop and go, dusty) or live in a particularly hot or cold environment, then it's worth looking at the "severe service" area of your manual, and go by that recommendation. Usually, it's relatively easy to inspect the timing belt by taking off the top part of the timing belt cover. You are ...


2

Could be a faulty ground somewhere. I went through the exact same thing with a Mitsubishi Eclipse and it turned out that a ground strap had come loose... Sometimes it made contact, sometimes it didn't!


2

I recently had the same trouble of intermittent shut-off while driving. I drive a 96 Honda Accord LX. 2.2L. It turned out to be the ignition control module (ICM) located inside the distributor. (50) bucks at Autozone.


2

Most of your local mechanics should have the sort of (expensive) scan tool that can display the sensor information. I'd get it diagnosed there - if you're not confident using a multimeter and poking electronics that's probably the quicker way to get a diagnosis.



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