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6

I had this same issue. The PCM and fuel pressure regulator is the correct fix. It is not cheap, but it does address the problem. If i recall, the issue has to do with ethanol having a lower boiling point than traditional gas. This causes it to vaporize on the fuel rail when the car's warm, but no long pumping gas because it's off. When you go to re-start ...


5

If the light was shut off after pumping the foot brakes the issue was not the parking brake. The problem is in the regular braking system you use to stop the car, as such it needs immediate attention. It may have been caused by something as simple as low brake fluid level. If the level is low either the system has a leak or the brake pads are worn to the ...


4

Some cars have a separate flasher relay for the Hazards - if that's the case then you might have a failure of the primary flasher relay? The signal initially not turning off suggests a possible failure of the switch though - It might be worth disconnecting the switch (there's usually a connection somewhere under the column) and testing it separately? I'm ...


4

So the problem seems to go away if manage to get the car into gear and move, but not if you rev it? "fuel ressure regulator and PCM!?" Sounds like they haven't bothered with the slightest bit of diagnosis. It sounds like a fuel pump problem to me. An electrical fuel pump problem at that. I think you have a mechanical fuel regulator, so i wouldn't expect it ...


4

That sounds like condensation from moisture that's already in the system. It's not harmful but that slight smell could be the beginnings of mildew. You might want to dry out the system. The best way that I've heard of is to run the air through the recirculator with the heater on, trying the defrost, floor and vent settings. If you run hot dry air through ...


3

It is a bumper cover. What you can't tell from the pictures is if the metal bumper or other hardware behind it is damaged also. If you get under the car you might be able to see the extent of the damage. Dpending on your skill level you can do this at home. Be aware that you will have to do some research to disable the airbag just to be safe. The parts ...


3

I had this same problem. You need a replacement orange O-ring with part 91345-RDA-A01. This video will show you the problem in great detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf-_qp1y4yc BTW, if you have a V6, there is a recall on a possible leak in one of the power steering hoses. You may want to have that checked out as well.


2

I just did this on a 2007 Accord SE. I bought this adapter which plugs into a port in the back of the factory stereo. To access the port, you have to disassemble a small portion of your car's interior. Watch this for instructions. Sound quality The sound quality is reasonable, but not excellent. You can hear a subtle but constant background noise ...


2

There is almost certainly a genuine OE option available that you could purchase from a dealer and probably get them to fit as well. This would be worth looking into just so you know how much it would cost, it may not be super expensive, but my gut feel says it will be reasonably costly. Or there are aftermarket options available. www.crutchfield.com has a ...


2

The manual states that for a 2003-2007 honda accord, the timing belt should be replaced at an 8 year or 105,000 mile mark. I just inherited a 2004 Honda Accord EX-V6 sedan from my father who purchased this car new in 2004. He drove a total of 55,000 miles in the 8 years in which he owned the vehicle. I feel stuck because I don't want the belt to snap off, ...


2

What are your driving conditions? If you primarily do city driving (stop and go, dusty) or live in a particularly hot or cold environment, then it's worth looking at the "severe service" area of your manual, and go by that recommendation. Usually, it's relatively easy to inspect the timing belt by taking off the top part of the timing belt cover. You are ...


2

I would say that as it is saving the other settings that it is getting a constant live from the battery. And assuming that no on has messed around with the wiring all SHOULD be well. However it's clearly not so i would guess that this is an internal issue and only reoslution would be a replacement unit. However, in some cases where the wiring has been ...


2

If you ask at your local auto parts store you should be able to purchase a "settinigs saver". one type is basically a 9 volt battery and an adapter that plugs into the power outlet/cigarette lighter. The 9V battery maintains the settings until the battery is reconnected. Another type has two power plugs, one plugs into the power outlet and the other end ...


2

You can probably lift out the battery without actually removing the terminals (be careful not to short them, though!), or you could attach a supplemental battery with jumper cables while removing the main battery. However, since you'll eventually do something stupid like leaving your headlights on and run down the battery, you should probably figure out how ...


2

If you're hearing a distinct gurgling, I'd start by looking at the coolant system. It's possible that the deceleration of braking creates a condition where the gurgling noise happens, maybe in the coolant overflow tank. The fact that this happens on a cold startup, and will happen again after only a one hour shutdown I think supports the coolant system ...


2

Whoever serviced your brakes probably tried to 'bleed' them, and if you hear gurgling I think it was done wrong. Now there's air in your brake system, and it's readily apparent the first few times you use your brakes each day as the air is pushed through the system. Needless to say, you need to have your brake bled properly. If you're comfortable with it, ...


2

I own a 1998 Honda Accord sedan that has gone through the same symptoms that you've experienced. Often I would be driving down the street and, all of a sudden, the engine would just die without any warning at 60 km/h. It also had extreme difficulty re-starting in hot weather (above 80 F) after it had just been running. I had the main relay replaced, and ...


2

I've been having this problem myself. From what I've read so far, the three main suspects are the main relay under the driver dash, the fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump, in that order. Here are some links I visited, the symptoms described by other people with a faulty main relay are nearly identical: ...


2

If you look in the trunk near the taillight you will find some plastic screws that hold the carpet in place. Using a flat head screwdriver remove them by unscrewing them or prying them out. Moving the carpet should reveal the mounting bolts for the taillight. It will most likely require a 10mm deep socket to remove the nuts. Disconnect the lamp sockets from ...


1

Without knowing the details of history of operation and maintenance of the car, it is impossible to make accurate recommendation. Assuming this newer car had been taken care ofus, with scheduled maintenance done on time, and records kept, then Larry’s suggestion is correct. Motorway operation is generally a lot easier on oil than stop-and-go urban traffic, ...


1

Best way is to check the oil dipstick. Before all this computer technology telling you oil life (in fact, none of the cars I own have these computers), we would just check the dipstick. If it's black and it's been 4-5 thousand miles, it's probably a good idea to change the oil. If there are any tints of yellow/light brown, you're good for another few hundred ...


1

If it's a manual transmission, possibly the starter motor is slow to disengage and is grinding against the flywheel as the engine is firing up. The low oil is very suspicious though and doesn't go along with that. Could just be a coincidence. Or, could be pointing to something far worse. However, engine related startup scary noises are normally more of a ...


1

Had this same issue with my last car, I even took it in to an electric shop and they couldn't pinpoint the problem. Low and behold after many head scratching days and hair pulling nights I found it to be a problem with a misplaced fused in the fuse-box under the dash. One of the fuses was inserted wrong, between two sockets, which meant there was an open ...


1

So eventually car started idling really bad and CEL light came up with P0505 - Idle Air Control Malfunction. Did some diagnostics myself and took it to the shop. Conclusion was that IAC needs replacement. So I got it done and the adviser said that previous stalling problem was also caused by this. So far so good. I will accept my own answer once I confirm ...


1

It's overheating! Hot Soak! The 2000 accord has the fuel rail under the intake manifold and right above the engine. The hottest possible place it could have been put. I replaced my 12 year old thermostat with a new one from Honda (167 degrees is the rated temp. for this year) and problem solved!!! Then, a few weeks later, it started again... but this time it ...


1

I had the same problem with my Honda Accord V6 for a while. The person who owned the car before me had been running on premium gas. When I tried using super this did not happen again for a whole year. It did end up happening again, but this may have been because of some of these cheap gas stations I go to. I would say try out the highest grade for a month or ...


1

I had the same problem with my 1998 Honda Accord (6th gen.). My check engine light kept coming on so I took it to a local AutoZone store to check the error code which turned out to be p1399. And the sales associate told me what the code meant and that I needed to replace my transmission shift solenoid. I ordered the part ($350 and some change). As soon as it ...


1

I was having the same problem with my 2000 Accord coupe v6. Has always been an intermittent problem. Just got it from dealer I experienced shaking on highway one day cruising at 75 mph, freaked me out. Check engine light came on and was P0108. Map sensor was somehow not fully connected. That took care of that. Regarding the no start after "hot soak" they ...


1

My wife had an identical issue with her 2007 Dodge Caliber. The issue ended up being the anti-theft (immobilizer) had gone haywire. On off days, it would act up and wouldn't start or go into neutral. For that we had to take it into the dealer to get fixed. Initially, they couldn't reproduce the issue, even when keeping it for a few days... So they gave it ...


1

Not sure about Accords, but my wife has a BMW 330i and it has the same feature. It's leaking from a vent hole in the reservoir and apparently that's "works as designed". BMW community has accepted that the proper solution is The Sock Mod. Could be same vent design on honda, but not sure since don't own one.



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