Hot answers tagged

9

I suspect that the 15% oil is talking about oil life. Just make sure that you check the oil level and top it off appropriately before taking the trip. Change the oil a quickly as possible once the trip is done.


8

I had this same issue. The PCM and fuel pressure regulator is the correct fix. It is not cheap, but it does address the problem. If i recall, the issue has to do with ethanol having a lower boiling point than traditional gas. This causes it to vaporize on the fuel rail when the car's warm, but no long pumping gas because it's off. When you go to re-start ...


8

From personal experience, I'd replaced ALOT of these working at the dealership. It wasn't just the accords either, it was quite a few Honda and Acuras that used the same design and power delivery system. The most common issues I saw out of probably close to 100+ failures of these was: Ground strap on the starter becoming corroded. Bad ground to engine ...


7

Distributor, it's what provides the electrical energy to the spark plugs at the correct time.


7

If the screw was just screwed into fibreglass, then a simple fibreglass patch is all you need. Cover the hole, and then once it has set, drill a pilot hole and fit the new screw. Alternatively you could use a couple of washers and a bolt, rather than a screw. Because this is not a high load, and is hidden in normal use, you don't need anything that clever ...


6

You might be interested in this question: What are the audible symptoms of a failing starter motor? The diagnosis in that question and answer period was that I probably had an aging starter motor (correct).


6

If the light was shut off after pumping the foot brakes the issue was not the parking brake. The problem is in the regular braking system you use to stop the car, as such it needs immediate attention. It may have been caused by something as simple as low brake fluid level. If the level is low either the system has a leak or the brake pads are worn to the ...


6

You need Spark, Fuel, and Compression for an engine to run. Since this engine was just reassembled, there is a lot to question. Spark - rotor position - beware of caps where the points are not "straight through" plug wires in the correct position timing - may need play with it a bit coil - ensure it is firing spark plug firing - use a jumper to connect ...


6

You need to check for leaks in the air intake A leaky air intake can explain hunting idle and I don't think spraying carb cleaner is always conclusive as some cracks can be really hard to see/detect. There are several ways to check this: block the air intake completely The easiest way to do this is disconnect the airbox and cover the piping before the ...


6

It sounds like the parking brake is siezed on, hence no resistance when pulling the lever. It looks like these cars use the same calliper to apply both the foot brake and the parking brake. A common fault with these designs is that the lever on the calliper that the parking brake cable connects to siezes and so the brake doesn't release. It is sometimes ...


5

Some cars have a separate flasher relay for the Hazards - if that's the case then you might have a failure of the primary flasher relay? The signal initially not turning off suggests a possible failure of the switch though - It might be worth disconnecting the switch (there's usually a connection somewhere under the column) and testing it separately? I'm ...


5

The oil pan is not a normal wear item, however being so low to the ground it is possible to damage it. As the oil pan is not removed for regular inspection, any decision made by the mechanic should be visible to photograph without tools or disassembly, either as physical damage or oil leaking. Have the mechanic put the vehicle on the lift and show to you ...


5

All cars have a tire information sticker somewhere in the driver door jam. The sticker will list the tire size and speed rating. The exact brand is not important and can't be easily traced either. I worked at a dealership for a few years and it was not uncommon for a single model of cars to come with three different tires on it. Choose the tire based on the ...


5

Turns out this particular issue wasn't due to me running the car out of battery (I believe) but actually to a blown fuse. I guess I had previously left the OBD II plugged in for awhile and apparently if anything else "on that circuit" is turned on it can blow the fuse, and my kids may have turned something on and voila, fuse blown. Another effect of having ...


5

They are typically on the same fuse. Charging outlet should be listed as a cigarette lighter.


4

That sounds like condensation from moisture that's already in the system. It's not harmful but that slight smell could be the beginnings of mildew. You might want to dry out the system. The best way that I've heard of is to run the air through the recirculator with the heater on, trying the defrost, floor and vent settings. If you run hot dry air through ...


4

So the problem seems to go away if manage to get the car into gear and move, but not if you rev it? "fuel ressure regulator and PCM!?" Sounds like they haven't bothered with the slightest bit of diagnosis. It sounds like a fuel pump problem to me. An electrical fuel pump problem at that. I think you have a mechanical fuel regulator, so i wouldn't expect it ...


4

The caliper should be fine once the brake line issue is repaired providing it didn't get hot enough to melt the seals. The pads may appear fine but I would replace them. Pads that got that hot mays have hairline cracks in them. The cracks could eventually cause pieces of the lining to flake off. The rotor is likely in need of replacement also. As far as ...


4

As a side note: It might make sense to replace the brake line as well. I am not sure what you mean by "twisting" the brake line (as a 180 or even 360 degree twist of the line, while not ideal for safe driving, should not lead to brakes failing. I therefore assume that you have severely bent or folded the line on itself), so there is a real chance of some ...


4

I think it is most likely the wires, rotor cap, and/or coil. When the aforementioned parts get old and tired, then damp with increased humidity, they can leak electricity. This is most easily seen at night, because there will be a nice bright light show under the hood. If it doesn't happen to be raining and the car starts right up, you can test the theory ...


4

Yes and quickly. Get the problem fixed or it is going to be real, real expensive to replace the pump and maybe the lines plus the power steering rack when the seals, etc. wear out due to lack of lubrication plus it must be a bitch to drive with no Power steering!


4

The heat up is probably due to an air pocket inside the cooling system on the engine side. You may try parking the car on an incline with the front pointing uphill, then see if you can add more coolant. You can also see if there is a coolant bleed valve as @Lathejockey81 suggests.


4

I would check for: cracks, but don't take casting marks for cracks (a picture of your pan would be helpful to tell) scratches stripped plug thread (but then it would already be leaking since you wouldn't be able to tight the plug back ;-)) any deformation especially on the gasket level


4

Try using some graphite lube on the lock cylinder before you give up on it. If you remove the lock cylinder, disassemble it, and clean it, you may improve it's function. You should also be able to get the lock cylinder re-keyed at the dealer or a locksmith prior to installation.


4

Your car overheated and the coolant leaked out of the overflow bottle. It happened a couple of times with my Opel Astra Coupe and my Subaru Forester too. If you're really lucky, nothing major is wrong with your car, but I'd advise a compression test just to be safe. The danger here is that BECAUSE the car overheated and all the coolant was lost, you may have ...


4

Google even show the details as a separate break out now https://www.google.com.au/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=honda%20accord%202006%20v6%20oil%20capacity


4

Set the valve clearance with feeler gauges. Exhaust .012" Intake .010". 30 yrs of Honda and I still do not trust any other method. If one of my employees does not use gauges we will be having a chat... Rod knock is usually much more evident on acceleration and not heard at idle until the damage is quite advanced. The noise can vary but is usually a lower ...


4

My suggestion is that your IAC valve is sticking. This would mean it is jutting in/out and not providing the amount of air for the computer to get the engine to settle. Since you've already cleaned it and the passageways, about your only other recourse is replacement.


3

It is a bumper cover. What you can't tell from the pictures is if the metal bumper or other hardware behind it is damaged also. If you get under the car you might be able to see the extent of the damage. Dpending on your skill level you can do this at home. Be aware that you will have to do some research to disable the airbag just to be safe. The parts ...


3

I had this same problem. You need a replacement orange O-ring with part 91345-RDA-A01. This video will show you the problem in great detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf-_qp1y4yc BTW, if you have a V6, there is a recall on a possible leak in one of the power steering hoses. You may want to have that checked out as well.



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