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6

I had this same issue. The PCM and fuel pressure regulator is the correct fix. It is not cheap, but it does address the problem. If i recall, the issue has to do with ethanol having a lower boiling point than traditional gas. This causes it to vaporize on the fuel rail when the car's warm, but no long pumping gas because it's off. When you go to re-start ...


6

You might be interested in this question: What are the audible symptoms of a failing starter motor? The diagnosis in that question and answer period was that I probably had an aging starter motor (correct).


6

If the light was shut off after pumping the foot brakes the issue was not the parking brake. The problem is in the regular braking system you use to stop the car, as such it needs immediate attention. It may have been caused by something as simple as low brake fluid level. If the level is low either the system has a leak or the brake pads are worn to the ...


6

Distributor, it's what provides the electrical energy to the spark plugs at the correct time.


5

I suspect that the 15% oil is talking about oil life. Just make sure that you check the oil level and top it off appropriately before taking the trip. Change the oil a quickly as possible once the trip is done.


4

That sounds like condensation from moisture that's already in the system. It's not harmful but that slight smell could be the beginnings of mildew. You might want to dry out the system. The best way that I've heard of is to run the air through the recirculator with the heater on, trying the defrost, floor and vent settings. If you run hot dry air through ...


4

So the problem seems to go away if manage to get the car into gear and move, but not if you rev it? "fuel ressure regulator and PCM!?" Sounds like they haven't bothered with the slightest bit of diagnosis. It sounds like a fuel pump problem to me. An electrical fuel pump problem at that. I think you have a mechanical fuel regulator, so i wouldn't expect it ...


4

Some cars have a separate flasher relay for the Hazards - if that's the case then you might have a failure of the primary flasher relay? The signal initially not turning off suggests a possible failure of the switch though - It might be worth disconnecting the switch (there's usually a connection somewhere under the column) and testing it separately? I'm ...


4

The caliper should be fine once the brake line issue is repaired providing it didn't get hot enough to melt the seals. The pads may appear fine but I would replace them. Pads that got that hot mays have hairline cracks in them. The cracks could eventually cause pieces of the lining to flake off. The rotor is likely in need of replacement also. As far as ...


4

As a side note: It might make sense to replace the brake line as well. I am not sure what you mean by "twisting" the brake line (as a 180 or even 360 degree twist of the line, while not ideal for safe driving, should not lead to brakes failing. I therefore assume that you have severely bent or folded the line on itself), so there is a real chance of some ...


3

It is a bumper cover. What you can't tell from the pictures is if the metal bumper or other hardware behind it is damaged also. If you get under the car you might be able to see the extent of the damage. Dpending on your skill level you can do this at home. Be aware that you will have to do some research to disable the airbag just to be safe. The parts ...


3

I had this same problem. You need a replacement orange O-ring with part 91345-RDA-A01. This video will show you the problem in great detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wf-_qp1y4yc BTW, if you have a V6, there is a recall on a possible leak in one of the power steering hoses. You may want to have that checked out as well.


3

Check for a shorted wire. If the fuse keeps blowing, you could have a wire touching metal somewhere in the system.


3

I think it is most likely the wires, rotor cap, and/or coil. When the aforementioned parts get old and tired, then damp with increased humidity, they can leak electricity. This is most easily seen at night, because there will be a nice bright light show under the hood. If it doesn't happen to be raining and the car starts right up, you can test the theory ...


2

I just did this on a 2007 Accord SE. I bought this adapter which plugs into a port in the back of the factory stereo. To access the port, you have to disassemble a small portion of your car's interior. Watch this for instructions. Sound quality The sound quality is reasonable, but not excellent. You can hear a subtle but constant background noise ...


2

There is almost certainly a genuine OE option available that you could purchase from a dealer and probably get them to fit as well. This would be worth looking into just so you know how much it would cost, it may not be super expensive, but my gut feel says it will be reasonably costly. Or there are aftermarket options available. www.crutchfield.com has a ...


2

The manual states that for a 2003-2007 honda accord, the timing belt should be replaced at an 8 year or 105,000 mile mark. I just inherited a 2004 Honda Accord EX-V6 sedan from my father who purchased this car new in 2004. He drove a total of 55,000 miles in the 8 years in which he owned the vehicle. I feel stuck because I don't want the belt to snap off, ...


2

What are your driving conditions? If you primarily do city driving (stop and go, dusty) or live in a particularly hot or cold environment, then it's worth looking at the "severe service" area of your manual, and go by that recommendation. Usually, it's relatively easy to inspect the timing belt by taking off the top part of the timing belt cover. You are ...


2

Could be a faulty ground somewhere. I went through the exact same thing with a Mitsubishi Eclipse and it turned out that a ground strap had come loose... Sometimes it made contact, sometimes it didn't!


2

I had the same problem you have to change your control box more or less $ 100. Hope this helps, mine runs perfectly since replacement.


2

Most of your local mechanics should have the sort of (expensive) scan tool that can display the sensor information. I'd get it diagnosed there - if you're not confident using a multimeter and poking electronics that's probably the quicker way to get a diagnosis.


2

I own a 1998 Honda Accord sedan that has gone through the same symptoms that you've experienced. Often I would be driving down the street and, all of a sudden, the engine would just die without any warning at 60 km/h. It also had extreme difficulty re-starting in hot weather (above 80 F) after it had just been running. I had the main relay replaced, and ...


2

I've been having this problem myself. From what I've read so far, the three main suspects are the main relay under the driver dash, the fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump, in that order. Here are some links I visited, the symptoms described by other people with a faulty main relay are nearly identical: ...


2

Whoever serviced your brakes probably tried to 'bleed' them, and if you hear gurgling I think it was done wrong. Now there's air in your brake system, and it's readily apparent the first few times you use your brakes each day as the air is pushed through the system. Needless to say, you need to have your brake bled properly. If you're comfortable with it, ...


2

If you're hearing a distinct gurgling, I'd start by looking at the coolant system. It's possible that the deceleration of braking creates a condition where the gurgling noise happens, maybe in the coolant overflow tank. The fact that this happens on a cold startup, and will happen again after only a one hour shutdown I think supports the coolant system ...


2

I would say that as it is saving the other settings that it is getting a constant live from the battery. And assuming that no on has messed around with the wiring all SHOULD be well. However it's clearly not so i would guess that this is an internal issue and only reoslution would be a replacement unit. However, in some cases where the wiring has been ...


2

You can probably lift out the battery without actually removing the terminals (be careful not to short them, though!), or you could attach a supplemental battery with jumper cables while removing the main battery. However, since you'll eventually do something stupid like leaving your headlights on and run down the battery, you should probably figure out how ...


2

If you ask at your local auto parts store you should be able to purchase a "settinigs saver". one type is basically a 9 volt battery and an adapter that plugs into the power outlet/cigarette lighter. The 9V battery maintains the settings until the battery is reconnected. Another type has two power plugs, one plugs into the power outlet and the other end ...


2

Distributor cap, DO NOT switch the cables around


2

If you look in the trunk near the taillight you will find some plastic screws that hold the carpet in place. Using a flat head screwdriver remove them by unscrewing them or prying them out. Moving the carpet should reveal the mounting bolts for the taillight. It will most likely require a 10mm deep socket to remove the nuts. Disconnect the lamp sockets from ...



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