New answers tagged ac
This is a common issue. Sometimes the door actuator needs to be reset, as it gets confused. When I had this problem in my Avalanche, I found that turning the temperature all the way to the 90 degree max setting (when set to equal cooling for both sides), waiting a few seconds for the door to stop moving, and then turning the temp back down, would resolve the ...
You should have been charging on the low side not the high side. But it's actually good that you weren't able to top off the system. You should never use that stuff in any car AC system and it's outlawed in the states. This is a flammable refrigerant! From the SDS (Saftey Data Sheet) AUTO – IGNITION TEMPERATURE: 1585 F FLASHPOINT: -34 C LOWER ...
The load put on your engine will come from the AirCon compressor, but that pressure is controlled by the AirCon pressure sensors. A service quality AirCon machine at your local garage will determine the fault.
The pressure was equalized throughout the system. Static pressure (without the system running) at around 80deg F should be around 90psi. I found this information from this website: On a properly working system, high-side pressure will be about twice the ambient temperature, plus 50 PSI. For instance, on a 90-degree Fahrenheit day, twice 90 is 180, plus ...
The fault for me would be your wasting your money on a Re-Charge kit. A service quality AirCon service machine would not only check pressures and moisture content, but also find any vacuum leaks. The machine would also be able to check high and pressures during actual operation of the AirCon, and replenish any gas or oil with the exact correct amounts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXx21L6Kixw Your AirCon is turned off by the system when you accelerate to allow full power from the engine to accelerate the vehicle. The video link will show you how to clean the carbon tracks on the AirCon control knobs. The symptoms you describe could very well be caused by 'dirty' tracks. Further to this an AirCon service ...
Your AirCon compressor will cycle on and off, partly as a pressure control procedure. It will also cycle off on a full throttle. These cycle operations are usually imperceptable to the driving experiance.
Turns out the ignition switch was bad. It was causing the blower motor to stay on even when the ignition was in the "off" position. Fixing this stopped the car's blower motor from running when off, then it was as simple as replacing the resistor once more and haven't had any problems for months.
As highlighted in the question comments, the culprit was the vibration damper on the crank pulley that had failed, causing the pulley center and outer ring to have some limited slip relative to one another. I'm happy to say that the following symptoms were resolved. With the A/C disengaged, the crank pulley was spinning at a limited speed. This was also ...
The Shrader valve is the definitive seal. The cap is there to keep dirt & crud out of the Shrader valve. The plastic threads on those caps aren't enough to hold more than a few pounds of pressure, and there's no way to get Teflon plumber's tape on those threads. So... you might replace the Shrader valve, or at least reseat it (that often does the job - ...
The only real differance between your vehicles electrical system with the engine on or off is made by the alternator. Running on battery, your system voltage will be lower then when the engine drives the alternator. With the alternator running, supplying the air fan with a higher voltage, the air fan will run a little faster and is the losing the conditions ...
Top 50 recent answers are included