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11

tl;dr: No. This sort of vehicle dynamics question best addressed by Racing Car Vehicle Dynamics What follows is a basic discussion at the high school physics level. As you will see from the reference text, high school physics is insufficient to statically model the complete vehicle system. A dynamic model is required to agree with easily obtainable ...


4

Sounds to me like the technician didn't burnish (or seat) the brake pads. Anytime you replace the brakes pads you should make several hard stops (not enough to activate the ABS) from 35 and then 55 mph. This seats the pads to the rotors, and eliminates the spongy feeling.


4

The ABS light can be triggered by metallic debris or dirt on the wheel sensor(s). The sensor tries to read the position of the nearby reluctor ring, but if it cannot then the ABS light will go on. It's also possible that one of the reluctor rings has broken or cracked, which would also cause an issue. I would check the sensors and rings first, before just ...


3

Turns out that there was a big pocket of air in the system. Sucking it out made everything return back to normal, thankfully. I also tried to replicate what happened in the first place by driving on some ice and getting the tires to lock up and activate the ABS. I did it a bunch of times and nothing bad happened. So hopefully it is fixed.


3

The newer the car the better ABS tends to be, but you can lock up even the best ones if you try hard. On sheet ice it is safer to disable your ABS entirely unless you have a system which is designed for these conditions. After seeing a bad crash where a long slide into a collision was caused by ABS not allowing any grip, I remove the fuse for ABS each ...


3

If you can get all 4 to lock at the same time then systems that detect differences between wheels won't activate. The system would have to be smart enough to detect exceptionally fast stopping of the wheels in order to work in that circumstance. My MR2 and Eclipse are definitely not that smart. Both are very capable of locking all 4 at the same time and ...


2

The first thing you should do is check for a blown fuse, it's very easy to blow a fuse when taking a battery out or installing a new battery. There is an ABS sensor near each of your four wheels, if one has gone bad or is disconnected, that will cause your ABS light to stay on. It's a 1992, so the garage may have to forego using any diagnostic readers and ...


2

If there is enough of a variance in tire diameter, it could most definitely be the problem. If the front tires are registering one speed and the rear tires are registering another speed, the difference could be causing the ABS computer to have fits. The difference would need to be a bit though, but don't know exactly what the difference would be (is probably ...


2

1) Since my ABS light isn't on on my dash, can I safely assume that it's fine as-is, or is this something that will likely come back to bite me later on? Yes. If the sensor was not picking up the signal, you won't see it at first (after the self diagnostics are done, that is). Once you start driving, the computer will notice the differential and then ...


2

Preface I ended up doing a fair bit of thinking and research on this, so I figure I may as well write up what I found. Thanks all those who responded, particularly BobCross. In the end though, I wanted an answer that went beyond calling a car a mystery box on balloons - I asked this question because I actually want to understand it. Intro - Tires Given ...


2

The first step is to pull the ABS codes. That will give us a starting point for trouble shooting. This model supports flash codes, you will need to jump across terminal A and H of the ALDL connector (under the drivers side of the dash). It may take about 30 seconds before the ABS light starts flashing codes. Count the flashes to get the code, they ...


2

I don't think it's possible to recalibrate the systems for a different tire size, but it shouldn't be necessary for such a small change. Most emergency spare tires are smaller than the standard vehicle tires and they don't hurt anything. That said, be careful if your vehicle has a limited-slip differential or all-wheel drive, those can be damaged if you have ...


2

With the limited info available it sounds like the ABS pump running. I can't think of anything else that cycles that fast. Why it would be running at start up I haven't a clue. You could try pulling the ABS fuse and see if the noise stops.


2

I took it in, and the front right wheel speed sensor was slow by 10mph, and the axle seal is leaking. The control arm bracket of the same wheel is also broken.


1

Before replacing the sensor, disconnect it at its plug to the loom. Test for a resistence across its two terminals. The code is telling you of a short to ground. This can mean that the feed wire, the sensor assembly, or the signal wire is not conducting through the circuit. Check the cabling for breaks or damage, especially on its bends. No breaks, or no ...


1

This is an answer to a variation of the problem: When ABS activates, the brake pedal goes to the floor but returns to normal height unless ABS is activated again. This applies to a Saturn S-series (SC, SW, SL) and may apply to other makes and models as well. The ABS system uses a series of solenoids and valves to redirect fluid flow. A set of valves ...


1

The ABS system is in effect an add-on to the vehicles brake system. You found this to be the case when you removed the fuse and normal braking was present. The ABS system has a module to control the sequence of solonoid operated valves which apply and release the brakes according to the performance of the ABS wheel sensors against a performance map stored in ...


1

There is not an industry wide problem with ABS brakes. The one problem that does arise is when an ABS system is 'opened' for any reason. Air can and will get into the system. The best way to bleed ABS brakes is with a pressure bleeder and a bi-directional scanner so that the ABS pump can be operated.This ensures the system accumalators are all bleed fully by ...


1

Without an ABS capable scan tool you would be guessing. Since the problem is intermittent a scan tool is really required since you need to retrieve any stored codes. It could be a sensor, a wiring issue or a wheel bearing allowing enough play to occasionally miss the timing ring.


1

The diagnostic plug is under the hood. Set the wire for the port you need to check. Hold the button down for 2 sec. then let it go. The light gone blink. 1 - 1 - 1 if there is no fault. Otherwise it will blink if something is wrong. Check all the connections in the diagnostic plug.


1

The ABS diagnostic port is under the hood, in the same assembly as the OBD port. I have never been able to get information from it, however. The best instructions I've been able to find did not work when I tried them. I asked a question about this previously, but so far it does not have an answer: Reading ABS diagnostic codes on a Volvo 940


1

Your best bet is to get your own hand held and diagnose this yourself. You can pick up various ones for $30-$2000 (if you really want to pay that much). The lower costing ones are Bluetooth designed to work with your smartphone. I too am doubting the voracity of this problem being a fried ABS ECU, mainly because in some vehicles, a brake light can cause ...



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