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I'm having difficulty troubleshooting an issue starting my 1997 Pulsar N15 (also known as Nissan Centra, Nissan Almera in other countries).

If the car has been sitting for a few hours (or overnight), it takes about 20-30 seconds to get going.

Initially my mechanic diagnosed that fuel pressure drops to zero once vehicle is turned off, then has to rebuild pressure to injectors to restart vehicle.

Since then, we have:

  1. Replaced Fuel Pump (with new)
  2. Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator (with second-hand)
  3. Upper engine de-coke
  4. Cleaned Throttle Body and Air Idle Motor.
  5. Several applications of Fuel System Concentrate

So far I've spent over $500 with no change to the starting characteristics.

I've posted a 50 second video of car starting at http://youtu.be/CVvK7-gmtCY

Does anyone have any ideas for further diagnosing the problem?

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maybe the battery needs to be changed looks like that only –  Akash Jul 25 '13 at 3:23
    
Do you know if this engine has throttle body injection or direct port injection? –  mikes Jul 25 '13 at 10:35
    
Akash: The battery's pretty new, and I think the mechanic would have picked it up. I'll test it with another battery connected but I'm not hopeful. –  Greg Sansom Jul 26 '13 at 9:09
    
mikes: I'm not sure how to tell or what the difference is... –  Greg Sansom Jul 26 '13 at 9:14
    
I came across this thread (forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/…) which indicates the Crank Position Sensor could be a suspect. Will focus on that for now but would be happy to hear any other ideas. –  Greg Sansom Jul 26 '13 at 9:15

1 Answer 1

I'm going through similar issues with mine, sometimes it is hard to start. On acceleration medium to hard. It cuts all power till I back off and gently feed it on. Then it's fine once over 2000 rpm. I'm suspect of the hex shaped solenoid that pushes the variable cam timing is either sticking and/or not pushing or pulling. The location of it is on the drivers side, rear of rocker cover. IMO, yours sticks and therefor your cam timing is pushed out of whack. Hence no start. Mine is the same sometimes. Mine also sticks. I think therefor making mine detonate (ping) then the knock sensor cuts fuel and spark to save engine. Then it must stop detonating and return the power to me. I tested mine by pulling throttle cable lots of times listening to the clicks. Then the time it didn't click = the car wanting to stall or run roughly.

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I believe your post is probably on target, but if you could go back through and fix some of the spelling mistakes, we could better understand this. I would normally go through and do this myself, but I truly am not getting what you are trying to say (ie: location v driver and solenoid thY pushes are two places which do not make sense to me). Also, there are no limits on space in answers (that I've seen), so try not to use acronyms such as IMO. –  Paulster2 Jan 9 at 15:03
    
Sorry about the bad spellingits a problem on my phone that I can't see what I'm typing. –  Adrian Fleetwood Jan 10 at 12:22
    
No worries. I would normally edit myself, but didn't want to misrepresent what you are trying to say. –  Paulster2 Jan 10 at 12:24

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