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My SL2 stalls (it just cuts out, no warning) shortly after warmup (this all started right after I topped off the coolant after a low coolant light came on, although I don't know if they are related). After the stall there is no spark but all other electronics work and I need to wait at least 20 minutes before the car will start again. I replaced the ignition module, but this did not fix the problem.

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Does the vehicle start right back up after it dies? Or do you have to wait until it cools off before it will start again? – cinelli Apr 12 '13 at 2:45
I have to wait for it to cool down, normally at least 20 minutes. – user3014 Apr 12 '13 at 22:58

It is possible that it is the crank position sensor. My friends trunk had the same problem. It would start and run for maybe 10 minutes then sputter out and die and not be able start again for hours.

Turned out to be a crank position sensor.

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After you stated that you have to wait for it cool before it will run again is an indication that the crankshaft position sensor has failed. You should have a look at how to replace it on your vehicle. It's usually found on either the transmission bell housing (reading off of the flywheel as it rotates) or near the crank pulley at the lower front of the engine.

If you want to be 100% sure (I already am), then you could remove the sensor, and hook up an ohm meter and check resistance in the sensor. While watching the reading get a blow dryer and heat the sensor (don't melt it). While heating it, you'll notice the resistance begin to increase. This is normal since adding head to a circuit will increase resistance. Watch the meter's output closely. It will eventually show OPEN. It may only just flash OPEN for a second but at this point, the vehicle has stalled. With the crank sensor signal lost the engine's control systems have lost it's idea of where the engine is in it's "timing" (there's much more to it, just trying to explain it a simple as possible).

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After reading this thread, which well describes my own car's misbehaviors, I've just verified that a new crank sensor fixes it, and dipping the old sensor in a cup of hot water results in ohmmeter reading going from 550 ohms (normal) to 'OL' whiich indicates resistance of many megohms. The test is spot on (but the sensor is inside a casting, and takes hours to replace, I couldn't test with just a 'blow dryer'). – Whit3rd Apr 29 at 6:14

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