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It has now happened twice to me that after adding coolant to the radiator, when I turn the car on the RPM's will bounce up and down and the engine is reving (between 1k and 1.5k RPM's). Normal idle is 750 RPM's. After a while it will eventually idle fine, but usually only after driving it for a bit.

Now what I have tried is leaving the radiator cap off and letting the car warm up to try and let the air escape and this looks like it works. The coolant level rises all the way to the top and will eventually 'burp' and go back down. I've let it run for about 20 minutes. But there still seems to be air trapped inside as startups still has rough idling.

I have seen some references to a bleeder valve, but my car doesn't seem to have this (2002 Honda Accord). Is there any better way to get the air out?

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If you've got a bleeder valve, it's probably on the thermostat housing. –  Mark Johnson Oct 9 '12 at 17:41
I don't think the surging and adding coolant are related. Why do you thinking they are? –  NitroxDM Nov 5 '12 at 2:19
@NitroxDM Sorry for the late reply. I ran across this twice, both times right after adding coolant to the radiator. I think I poured the coolant too fast. –  Despertar Jun 6 '13 at 5:23

3 Answers 3

up vote 4 down vote accepted

Here's a thread from honda-tech.com. Sounds like you should have one from the factory, but it's possible an aftermarket thermostat housing was installed minus the valve.

If you really have no bleeder, you could install a thermostat housing that has one, or pull yours and install one yourself.

Otherwise, you're on the right track, though you might try running the heater and squeezing the hoses to move air bubbles along. Be careful poking around the engine bay with the engine running, don't lose any fingers. Gentle prods from a rubber mallet might be a safer strategy. You also need to wait for the engine to warm up and for the thermostat to open, otherwise you could have some air trapped in the block with no way out.

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The rev surging might be an idle-control valve trying to do what it does. Have a good mechanic take a look.

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This does not provide an answer to the question. To critique or request clarification from an author, leave a comment below their post. –  cinelli Jul 27 '13 at 20:15
I am neither critiquing nor requesting clarification. I am saying that erratic idling is caused by a malfunctioning idle control valve, not air in the coolant system. Which is the most probable solution to his problem. Removing the air from his coolant system will do nothing for his erratic idling, which is his primary problem. –  Juann Strauss Jul 28 '13 at 11:20
Maybe you should elaborate the above within your answer. Otherwise, essentially one-sentence reply is not quality. –  theUg Aug 16 '13 at 2:59
Of course it is. I indicated what the problem is most likely to be AND the best solution. –  Juann Strauss Aug 16 '13 at 7:34
@JuannStrauss, your answer got flagged by the auto-mod system as potentially low-quality because of its short length, hence the attention you're getting. Personally I think you've added something to the conversation, but I also feel that 'take it to a mechanic' falls a bit short. –  mac Sep 3 '13 at 19:59

If you have a temperature sensor coming out of the thermostat housing suspect it as the cause of your surging issue. This doesn't even set a CEL light. You can change it same time as the thermostat replacement. Read the Honda groups on the Internet.

The low level of coolant won't cause engine surging, nor will air in the system. It is good to try to get it out though.

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Are you sure it couldn't cause surging? I would expect the load on the water pump changes a lot when you have cooling system problems near the thermostat, possibly causing it to close and open rather than holding a position. You might also be flopping back and forth between moving water and moving air.. –  R.. Jul 27 '13 at 17:01

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