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If you look at the picture below you will see that I took the plastic panel off my door, and separated the motor from the regulator. After I disconnected the motor that I thought was bad, I connected a new one from Dorman. Turns out that both the old and new one can not go up(even when disconnected from the regulator. I also checked the switch by connecting it to another window wiring and making sure that window still worked.

Question is, how do I get the up signal to go from the switch to the motor? I checked all the connectors, and they all looked good to me. Do I need to replace a wire? If so, which one?

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View of full panel inside the door. View of full panel

UPDATE: I also made certain that my fuse is still in tact, so it is not the fuse.

UPDATE 2: I checked the voltage with the multimeter. There are 11.84 V coming to the switch, and when I go down on the switch there are 11.84 V making it to the motor connector, but when I go up on the switch it drops to ZERO. The next thing I would think to look at is the relays, and after researching that I think I found where they are supposed to be, which is R16-19 (for all 4 windows) but as you can see in the picture below, I have no relays in the interior fuse box, which is where I would expect them to be. Where else could they be? What else could cause a perfect connection one way, but zero connection the other?

Interior Fuse Box

UPDATE 3: Turns out it was that the switch(lower left switch in the picture below) on the driver side door was faulty. I got the window to go back up temporarily when I physically manipulated the switch. I have to go buy a new switch(all 4 of them on the driver door). Problem halfway solved.

Disassembled main switch

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up vote 4 down vote accepted

If you have checked another working window, your best bet is to use a multimeter to see which wire carries what voltage for the up and down signals (this is not specific to your cart but relevant for any).

Then check first to see whether the voltage is present at the motor end of the wire. If so, the connection to the motor may be faulty.

If no voltage present, check the other end. If the correct voltage is there the fault is in the wire. If not, keep working back up the path.

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The voltages required across E and F should be 12V and ground. Have a look at http://www.thaimazda3.com for a slightly more detailed diagnostic checklist.

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What is the correct voltage supposed to be on the up and down signals? If it ends up being the wire, then how do I actually get the wires out of the connectors? –  tarheel Jun 18 '12 at 0:14
    
Thanks for the help so far! Check out my update on the voltages. –  tarheel Jun 19 '12 at 1:06
    
Following the circuitry all the way back to its source, got me to the answer that the faulty switch was on the driver side. Just have to replace it now. –  tarheel Jun 20 '12 at 0:43
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